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Tinindian last won the day on March 11

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About Tinindian

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  • Birthday 09/14/1942

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    Victoria, Vancouver Island

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  1. The English language can be pretty difficult because of all the "idiot-syncrasies" but in his/her question he/she did not mention either attachment or weights,. However in case you are right, and I misinterpreted him/her (must be politically correct these days) the answer is simple. You either crimp weights on to the rim the same way as on any rim or use the stick on weights and attach them to the felloe always dividing the weight between the inside and the outside of the wheel.
  2. Battery carrier cover???
  3. Theoretically you should be able to balance the whole wheel hub and drum on one of those horizontal bubble balancers that were around in the seventies, if someone would do it for you. The easiest way is to go to a truck place where they spin the mounted wheel and the sensor they use is put under the axle. Works great but are getting hard to find places that kept the older equipment. If you slightly loosen the bearings you can let the wheel turn slowly until it stops. Mark this spot and do it again. If it stops at the same spot that is the heavy spot. You can put a weight directly opposite that spot and spin again. Totally trial and error but with patience it works. My preference would be to put less than half the weight I think it needs 60 degrees in each direction from the heavy point. In driving my car 400,000 miles and several sets of tires (I think about a dozen) I have only had to balance two tires. I always found that they were out of round because the bead was not seated evenly all around or the rim was not true on the felloe. Many years ago it was suggested that the serial number is the heaviest spot on the tire and I have always mounted my tires with the serial number opposite the valve stem. On an asphalt road I can take my hands off the wheel at 55mph and there is not a single quiver in the steering. It took getting the castor, camber and toe in set properly to achieve this. The current tires have never been balanced just mounted straight and true. Good Luck
  4. If you have a motor operated horn (Klaxon and Sparton were the most common ones I believe) rather than a vibrator operated you do need to blow it occasionally or else when you need it, it won't work. Usually the brushes stick. I hardly ever use mine while driving but I needed it once and it did not work. Now I try it at home a couple of times each year. Vibrator ones are probably susceptible to having the contacts stick but I don't have any experience with such new fangled horns. I am glad Ray, that there is at least one person out there that dose not believe that the horn is more important than the brake. Driving these days I sometimes wish I was deaf.
  5. George @ Olcar Bearing Olcar Bearing Company 135 James Creek Southern Pines, NC 28387 910.693.3324
  6. Most models of "Klaxon" horns sound different so I assume Different "Sparton" horns would be the same. I wouldn't think you Dodge would mind too much if you used a horn that was used on almost any GM or Studebaker or Nash. Definitely the ford horns have their on tone and would embarrass your Dodge. There are several "Klaxon" horns on ebay right now between $50 and $150 that would be suitable.
  7. I have never been involved in this type of engine but have seen many many illustrations and shop photos of engines with individual or multi cyl pots showing the crankcase with the rods and pistons and the cylinders sitting alongside. The early Dykes that I have shows more than a few engines where the whole cylinger block has to be removed to change one piston. Not a big deal back then when some shops were paying $4.50 a week wages.
  8. You can only have a cousin twice removed if he/she is the child of a cousin once removed. A child of a sibling is a niece or a nephew. Any children of nieces or nephews are great-nieces or nephews and their children are great-great nieces or nephews.
  9. Now, that one is a keeper. A car nut with a great-niece artist what a combination.
  10. These are often seen on ebay with starting prices from $31 to $57 to $71. listed right now are these three on ebay (not mine) 172585751207 222104196780 311813762940 For your information these are all change up from the otiginal Chrysler number. L 93, Chryso 861028; Ace X1/2; PB ½ P; AC P21; Purolator PER ½; and WIX WF1/2. C-1/2 replaces: AC-W1, 3, 7, 10, 13, 21; XG1, 2; XJ1; XN1;, 2; XP1, 2; Purolator EA4; E1/2; EA1/2; EF1/2; SA1/2; SAC1/2, SNC1/2; Champion 303. Fram P1/2. Pic 25; C5; D5. These change ups are all the same except a couple of them are 1/8" larger and a couple are 1/8 smaller in diameter than the original.. Some have inlet and outlet on the same end and some have inlet and outlet on opposite ends. Picture shows several that I have for sale. I hope some of this information helps.
  11. A ring compressor like this would do the job http://www.gearwrench.com/auto-specialty/engine-tools/gearwrench-850dd-piston-ring-compressor-set.html
  12. What a great find especially since it seems to be an authentic Auranthetic Charger and with all the documentation. It's cute and looks like it will be lots of fun.
  13. The 9" wrench is about right. I checked and I can nicely torque 60 pounds with one hand and a 9" wrench. I have read in manuals tighten so it does not leak.
  14. Looking Good. Thanks for sharing.