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Tinindian last won the day on March 11 2017

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About Tinindian

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  1. Steering stabilizer

    You need to find out what is loose ie: kingpins, bearings, shackles, tie rod ends and steering gear. Shackles need to be correct on all four corners. All four springs need to be arced correctly. Alignment needs to be checked, toe in, castor and camber. Camber is the only adjustment that you could not make yourself unless you had a complete shop. Wheels, rims and tires need to be true. If you have the kingpins out make sure you get the spindles "Magnafluxed". The shop installing my king pin bushings magnafluxed my spindles and they were both cracked half way through. Do it right and it will be like driving a new car. I can take my hands off the wheel at 60mph on a straight and level road and even on a properly banked curve and my car follows the road perfectly. Other than the camber and having the king pin bushings pressed in and reamed to fit I did all the other parts replacement and adjustments myself.
  2. Steering stabilizer

    There is only one correct way to tighten up a front end. Rebuild it. Accessory things like stabilizers are band aid fixes. I would not drive or ride in a vehicle with them if I were aware of it.
  3. Rebuiding a 1931 90 Series Engine

    https://www.wikihow.com/Lock-Wire-Drilled-Head-Bolts I would assume this is the proper way to wire any pair of bolts/capscrews, not like the third picture of post #15. I do not believe there are any shortcomings with mechanical brakes. When set up correctly you can park the vehicle for any period of time and they are ready to work correctly when needed. From 50MPh I can lock all four of my wheels with half a pedal. Without locking the wheels I can stop from 50mph in the length of my head light beams. I adjust my shoes every 20,000 miles ( 2 years ish) or so and usually get 70,000 to 85,000 miles on a set of linings. The only limitation I see is the number of square inches of rubber to the road which has nothing to do with actuation of the brakes either hydraulic or mechanical. One thing for sure with mechanical brakes you will never burst a hose and the chances of breaking a cable, clevis or rod is very low and at the worst you would only lose braking on one wheel.
  4. Gas tank strap ideas

    The easiest thing to get would be the setting tape that they use in door windows. It comes in several thicknesses.
  5. 1932 Ford V8 commemorative stamp. Would be nice to go to someone who owns one like this. Post a photo of your matching Ford and you can have this stamp for the cost of postage plus a nickel for the envelope.
  6. Commemorative stamp

    1950 Desoto Deluxe Custom Convertible stamp. Would be nice to go to someone who owns one. Post a photo of your car and it can be yours for the cost of an envelope and the postage.
  7. It is really nice when people come back with the resolution of their problem and a Thank You. Kudos to George.
  8. 70's Chrysler Daily Driver?

    Rusty_OToole....After reading your comments and working for GM and Chrysler in the 60's and 70's I know why I drove a 1930 Pontiac as my daily driver since 1959.
  9. It has a "Mechanics" universal joint so that would narrow it down quite a bit.
  10. Peep mirrors....luv 'em or hate them?

    What is a powerful overdrive? I always thought a transmission, an overdrive or a rear end on a vehicle just transmitted what power was provided by the engine. All the overdrive does is move the torque curve from one road speed to another.
  11. Peerless 8U Engine Torque Specs

    With a standard 1/2" ratchet I tightened my head bolts using my lower arm, not my whole body for many years. When I bought a torque wrench I found that on average my bolts had been tightened to 50 ft/ lbs. So that is how I tighten them now 40 then 45 then 50 even when reusing a gasket for the second or third time. I never had a problem with leaks and only broke one head bolt removing it. At that point I replaced all the head bolts.
  12. Peerless 8U Engine Torque Specs

    You could use these as a guide. My Pontiac manual suggests tight enough so it does not leak but not tight enough to break the bolt.

    These are actually Series 6-29 parts which would have been on a vehicle built between August 29 and June 30 and would be considered to be a "true" 29. Of course the cars made after December 29 would have been sold as a 1930.
  14. Another 1918 E49

    They would be snubbers ie: single acting shock absorbers I believe.
  15. Lubriplate 110 and alternatives

    In the early 60's when I was working in parts at a GM dealership we received a bulletin that said to only use Lubriplate 110 for repacking "NEW" wheel bearings. After having several dozen failed bearings within a few weeks we disregarded the bulletin and went back to "real" wheel bearing grease. It turned out the bulletin should have said Lubriplate wheel bearing grease not Lubriplate 110. The stock on hand was sold to the staff at a great discount. Most of us used it in bicycles and such and had no problems at all. Certainly not the proper grease for front wheel bearings.