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I am mad at Hagerty. Just attempted to insure my Mercedes and it did not qualify. Not old enough. Must be a 1979 or older. That would exclude very Reatta. Seems odd they would push insurance for Reattas.

He described this item as an HVAC control unit for '88-91 Reatta. Am I missing something here? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-Climate-Control-for-1988-1991-Buick-Reatta/223327154861?hash=item33ff55f2ad:g:iDYAAOSwXbFb7q4y:rk:2:pf:0

License/registration/proof of insurance? Yes officer. I have them right here.

I don't believe any of the options are worth the cost and effort, but saying that, I will take the vehicle, as is, off your hands for $2000.00. 😜

Hydro lock seemed symptomatic to head gasket leak. As mentioned also coolant in oil and oil in coolant. Intake manifold gasket breakdown leaves a trail of white smoke from exhaust pipe. Just from my perspective and experience.

Yup. 50- 55 is one of the inputs for the T C lockup to occur. Large drop in rpm when that happens.

Throttle Position Sensor ????????????

Do the 90s have the power steering A/C cut out switch?

The carpeted cover just pops off with a bit of force. It is held in place by plastic posts that snap into the metal underside of the roof ass'y. It is common for the cables to rust in the guide slots. Take the motor drive off of the roof ass'y and work the cables with plenty of liquid lube.

Okay. The Parts were claimed. No longer available.

Years ago I purchased from Espo Springs and Things a stabilizer bar bushing kit. I never installed them. Cost me $17.00 in 2004. Send me $5 Paypal for shipping and I will send them to you. Such a deal. Even contains a tube of anti squeek lube. `

Not an easy job. They are aluminum and anodized. Best way is to power sand the anodization off exposing the base metal. I use 800 grit on an orbital sander. The next step is to polish the exposed metal. Technique is important. Do not use random swirl pattern when sanding. Power buffer with rouge doing small concentrated areas will bring out the lustre. I clear coat the finished product.

This. Not sure that indicates compressor is bad, but those are out of range readings. I would evacuate system and start over with recharge.

Very common occurrence. Occasionally they just pop off at the under hood connection. Pop it back on and if it happens again use DAVES89 suggestion. I get the feeling some mechanics is making a killing charging huge $$$$ for what is probably a 10 cent fix.

The drain tubes run down the pillar and exit on the left and right side frame rails behind the front wheels.