padgett

Errr and 87-92 Allante. Also for many of the other cars, air lift was an option.

" why Craigslist died. " I consider $5 in the noise to sell a car and better for local ads.

Have said before, 90% of Northstars are great, 10% had engine leaks that can cost many thousands of dollars. Suspect the % is much higher in those for sale. I would only buy a 93 from someone I really really trusted. Anyone else should buy a 91-92.

" just turns over now, no start." there is a long section in the service manual on "cranks but does not start"

Did buy my last car from FB marketplace. Was 6 miles away, paid cash, and took over a month to get a Florida title.

And what is the O2 sensor reading over time. Is it transitioning ?

I used to scrounge yards for electronic parts and had about a 85% success rate. Now I do not buy AC parts (made in China) but for new mostly Bosch or Standard (SPC).

Two coupes on CL today.

Currently I have three cars that use that same HVAC control module (cars with ATC got the module, manual temp control the resistors) and always salvage/checkout a spare or two. Relays, oil pressure senders, and HVAC modules are the most common failure in period halo cars. Since you have a 93 with no engine leaks, you are lucky, very lucky.

At this point do not know if "cranks but does not start" or Nada? If nothing but ok when cools off then solenoid is my first choice for a GM car.

GM solenoids are fanous for failing (not even a click) when hot. There was a heat shield used on Corvettes that helps.

and if the bulb blows you have more.

GM says normal draw with everything off is 50 ma. Mine usually draw 20-30ma. The blower control module has a SCR that usually fails short but sometimes open. Was used by all GM cars of the period with ATC. I keep a spare around.

BTW lights are supposed to go on when you start the car. Should go off 20-40 seconds later.

Sounds like a good deal but already have most of that. Just trying to help.

OK, the BCM itself is common to several vehicles, the UVPROM (27(h)c256 is specific to themake/model. The EEprom 2816 is specific to the vehicle and contains the VIN and ODO (plus other settings) it has a checksum so cannot just reprogram. Our vendors probably have a working BCM for your Reatta, will run fine, just have the rong VIN.

ps A/C inop: that's another grand.

When running rough you can turn off individual cyl and see what is ded.

When in HVAC mode can it change the fan speed ?

Relief valve stuck open will do the same thing but sender failure is more likely.

Well I'd start by R&Ring the HVAC control and cleaning the contacts but suspect when the LCD was installed the wiring got floogled.

I've gotten lost in this mess. Key on foot off the TPS center should read .38-.42v and "over 4.0v" at WOT

Have to wonder if the aftermarket display below has caused HVAC problems. The Reatta has a tightly integrated ALDL LAN. Once had a bad connector cause a TPS to fasil on a stop but read normal at rest. Found by logging parameters to a PC while driving.

BTW, there is a way to replace a cam magnet through the sensor hole. Did mine that way a few decades ago and is still there.

Anything over 30 should idle.