sahein

http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/323244/Searchpage/1/Main/77550/Words/+sahein/Search/true/Re_88_reatta_radio_popping_and#Post323244

http://www.nano.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=108 http://www.trnmag.com/Stories/2005/020905/Nanotubes_crank_out_hydrogen_Brief_020905.html http://technology.newscientist.com/article/dn12946-cheap-hydrogen-power-gets-a-nanotube-boost-.html http://www.anl.gov/Media_Center/News/2005/IPNS050513.html http://www.iop.org/EJ/abstract/0957-4484/19/7/075707

I would not recommend this for the average person. It is very difficult. I replaced my tray and inner support panel with an identical Cadillac one that I had a junk yard torch out for $50.00. Then I carefully drilled and ground out the spot welds to remove the burned torched damaged area from the tray support portion. This took more than an entire day. Then I drilled and ground out the rusty tray support from the Reatta. The Cadillac support panel fit perfectly. I then used a mig welder to spot in the new tray support panel. After smoothing the welds and cleaning and sanding the parts, I then used a body panel seam bonding filler, primed and painted. It turned out very nice.

I have been using 4 quarts of Castrol GTX 5w30 with 1 quart of 5w30 Mobil-1 for my oil changes for years. Never had any oil related issues. I gave my son a Ford Escort wagon with over 200k miles and never used a drop of oil between 3000 mile changes. I always use Pure-one oil filters. Him and his wife have since been driving (beating) it for over two years now.

Well, yes and no. The touch screens are the same for the same years, but earlier Riv touch screens were different.

Does it only do it when cold or does it also do it after it has been warmed up from running awhile?

You must check the level with the engine in idle and the car in park. If you just pull out the dipstick and look, the transmission fluid level can be as much as 3 quarts low and show as full on the dipstick. You must pull out the dipstick, wipe it off, put it back in and then check to get an accurate reading.

All sorts of custom things here! Flip up license plates, flip flop trunk, gull wing doors, flame throwers and even more!!. http://www.robs427.com/movies/Produce_0.wmv http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/index.lasso

All sorts of custom finishes here! http://www.alsacorp.com/ Video Demonstrations here! http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/kc/killerchrome.htm#video

After you store the individual station buttons you have to store the page as well.

I know that the 89 Riviera parts are the same as the 89 Reatta.

I bought a low mileage 88 Reatta cheap that was doing this. Found that one of the injector connectors was not seated properly. I suggest listening to the injectors with a stethoscope to hear that they are all clicking.

Sorry That I didn't see this post earlier. The ignition switch has more than 1 set of contacts. One set cranks the engine and the other set enables the ignition.

If you don't want to mess with the ECM you can use an FMU with a booster pump. http://superchargeronline.com/content.asp?id=84 http://superchargeronline.com/content.asp?id=97

It is stored in the BCM.

http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php?ub...true#Post267623

Barney, I believe that the 90- 91 radios may be the same as the 88- 89, but the 90-91 radio is mounted to the cassette chassis.

Years ago I rented a rivet tool for $20.00 for a day just to fasten the oversize regulator rivets. Then I found and purchased a new identical tool at Harbour Freight for $11.00 on sale. I have since used it on numerous occasions on other vehicles.

In that instance that it saves a life it might be worth a ticket. But on the other hand, how many people will be scared to death...literally? Kind of like tractor tipping.

As simple as adding a single high current diode. You can also use a relay but that would be more complex.

It is the channel in part number 81. http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...true#Post215046

It may be that the plastic guide in the window channel has collapsed. The binding will occur when the window rises and the edge begins to ride on the outside of the plastic guide. It is darn near impossible to correct while still in the door. Remove the window and vent then examine the vent channel. If the plastic guide has collapsed, bend it back into shape then carefully re-assemble so as not to re-collapse.

http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...=true#Post61271

http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...true#Post245837

My guess would be a bad torque converter