Grimy

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Grimy last won the day on June 7

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About Grimy

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  1. Please consider carefully what you want to end up with, both short term and long term. 1. Option 1: Complete disassembly means a years-long full restoration and life often--too often-- gets in the way, resulting in a stalled project being sold for pennies on the dollar. 2. Option 2: Mechanical refurbishment of individual systems in priority (brakes, steering at the top), get it running and charging well. One system at a time so that the car can be put back together quickly. A car that is running will get your attention for 2 hours after dinner and half days on weekends, whereas we tend to wait for 2 weeks vacation to work on something totally disassembled. When it's safe to drive, DRIVE IT to whet your enthusiasm for the car! Option 2A: If you want, at least short term, to have a Driver Survivor, don't put shiny new paint on repaired or refurbished components. There are tricks such as flattening agents for paint to make a component look like it has aged naturally and has not been touched, yet provide protection against rust. In this sub-option, just "take the curse off of it." Option 2B: If you want to do a "rolling (full) restoration/refurbishment," paint and detail each component as you finish it. NOTE: Once you've departed from the naturally-aged look, there is no going back. If you chose 2A, you can, down the road, do the cosmetics later. I'm sure others will come up with more options or permutations of these.
  2. Side curtains BLIND you! (Site won't let me upload the pdf of the photo, or I'd show you). On the other hand, in April 2017 we had a day of soaking, straight-down rain on a tour in the Mother Lode of California, no water came in the sides, even at 45 mph, so I wasn't tempted to go thru the drill of installing them. I do have a photo of that...
  3. I think CRUISING speed is more appropriate--45 max as cruise, unless you add an overdrive. All 1934-35 50 series had 4.88 differentials, and I could never find a faster gearset that would interchange. I speak as the (now former) owner of a 1934 56S for >40 years. The 1931-35 50 engines were much earlier technology, and slower-turning engines. The 1934 40 series (233 cid) was much more modern and became the 248 and then the 263.
  4. Grimy

    Towing vehicle for a DB

    Matthew, several different thoughts: 1. My 1995 Mazda pickup (badge-engineered Ford Ranger) has a driver's side air bag, so I'm sure a F-150 two years newer has at least one for the driver. Google is your friend. 2. My 1999 Ford F350 7.3 diesel has two airbags. I urge you to wait, if necessary, and get a diesel for towing. Here's why: My next door neighbor retired and bought a new Chev pickup (gasser) and then a 25-ft travel trailer. He complained that on a local trip it wouldn't shift higher than 3rd with the trailer. Reason is that most small block V8s attain their max torque at about 3600 rpm. When towing, we want a much lower torque peak. The 7.3 has 500 lbs/ft of torque at 1600 rpm, with hp peak (235) at 2700 rpm against a 3300 rpm redline. A "RV cam" in a small block gasser achieves max torque about 2400 rpm. So if you're considering a gasser find out if it has a RV cam installed. My neighbor sold his new truck at a substantial loss and bought a used Dodge Cummins. Funny he didn't remember borrowing my F350 and trailer to bring back a Helms bread truck from SoCal about 8 years before. 3. To be able to tour your Dodge without towing, despite the challenges of Bay Area roads, consider joining us in the Nickel Age Touring Club based in the Bay Area. We have two 3 or 4 day tours per year, often (not always) within driving distance of the Bay Area, plus one evening dinner social (usually Pleasanton) in late January, to which we all drive modern. If you have any interest, please PM me with your contact info and I'll add you to the mailing list (no obligation to join--come to the dinner and check us out). We strive for low-cost tours and inexpensive meals. In early May we did 3 days in Isleton, CA in the Sacramento River delta, staying at a very clean postwar fishing/boating camp and touring along the levees. In early October we are going to Truckee, near Tahoe--to which most will tow. Our club is affiliated with HCCA but its Regional Groups often allow post-1915 vehicles on their *local* (vs. national) tours. Just know that there are opportunities for touring 1920s cars in our area. Nickel Age has everything from Model Ts to Overland to Buick to Hudson to Pierce-Arrow and we all respect all vehicles of this area--and we NEED a Dodge!
  5. Grimy

    Towing vehicle for a DB

    Jack M, it all depends whether one is living under his parents' roof. That said, Matthew, you might want to point out that this is a morally (if not physically) clean hobby. You are continually researching and learning, applying knowledge to practical situations, making adult decisions. You'll have something to show for it beyond greens fees receipts--if you had chosen golf instead. You already know from the forums that a number of accomplished, mature people from all walks of life are deeply involved in this hobby, so the people you meet will be productive, problem-solving members of society. There are much, much worse ways to spend your time and money! Don't get wrapped around the axle when you hear stuff like "worse than drugs." That--rightfully--wounded you, but please attribute that remark to hyperbole. Consider inviting your parents to join you at *selected* car shows and other events, especially if you are showing your car, so that they may see for themselves
  6. Most of us on this site will encourage you to keep the original driveline. For any vintage vehicle, be aware of both the capabilities and limitations. Two of the limitations are speed and braking. Plan on 35-40 mph cruise (add 10-15) if you add an overdrive. You'll have 2-wheel brakes, as do my two oldest cars below. That limitation is that, although I can lock up the wheels, only two small tire patches work on the pavement; one must drive carefully. That said, your car is about to turn 96 years old and is a marvelous, instructive artifact that will give you and many members of the public much joy as it bears witness to what the industry produced in that period. I've driven my 1918 Pierce 3,700 miles since acquiring it in January 2016, and in the next five weeks I'll put another 1,200 miles on it on three tours. I tell everyone this car provides me and others "more smiles per mile" than any other car I've ever had. At very least, I urge you to defer any judgment to change it until you have this car properly sorted and experience what only an original car of this vintage can provide!
  7. Please compare for us the diameters of the water pump and fan pulleys (1) from the 330 that you're using and (2) from the 455 as found.
  8. Grimy

    23 Model R throw-out bearing rattle

    By chance, do you have even the remnants of an oiler tube leading to the throwout bearing? Some cars have an oiler with a spring cap near the shifter tower. Perhaps check under the floorboard for any indication that there was once an oiling tube entering the bell housing.
  9. Grimy

    Packard starts stalls starts stalls

    A boat tank/can with gravity feed will resolve the issue of whether the carb is receiving sufficient gasoline.
  10. Grimy

    Tire replacement questions - 1929 Model 135

    For expanding the rim to reassemble the unit, I find it easier to use a bottle jack and two short pieces of 4 x 4 lumber rather than the rim tool.
  11. Grimy

    Is This Worth Saving?

    I agree with Wayne, but there is also the consideration of whether a vast number of missing parts are available--unlikely for this Paige. There is always the speedster option... The Paige Daytona which broke 100 mph at Daytona certainly had VERY different gears from even production Daytonas, which are 40-45 mph cars. And likely a number of other differences, because the 8A/9A/10A engines had a 3,000 rpm redline at the very outside. My 1922 Paige 4-passenger phaeton is all in at 40 mph, but it will get a 26 Mitchell overdrive (already on the shelf), not because I want to go much faster but to take the stress off the engine.
  12. Grimy

    Packard starts stalls starts stalls

    For what it MAY be worth, as I'm not familiar with the Packard set-up: 1936-38 Pierces returned to B-K vacuum-assisted brakes actuated by a 1/2-inch vacuum pipe from the intake manifold. The vacuum cylinder is remote, under the rear seat floor, and the vacuum is drawn through both hard piping and rubber hose. About 10 years ago, I solved a lean condition on a friend's 1936 sedan when I found that a previous owner had used heater hose, rather than the correct very thick, heavily-reinforced vacuum hose, which does not hold up for long, and can be sucked closed and flexes too much. Be sure than any rubber-based tubing to the vacuum cylinder is **vacuum hose** which is relatively expensive--IIRC about $4/linear foot 10 years ago.
  13. Grimy

    1949 Jeepster VIN Numbers

    Dave, Stamped engine number: According to the MoToR Manual, 1950 Jeepster 6-cyl engines began with 12698, so that's a possibility. The "61" at the front of the number MAY indicate the 161 cid engine (3-1/8 bore x 3.5 stroke, 6.90 compression ratio). The first of the engines in 1948 was 148.5 (3.0 bore x 3.5 stroke, 6.42 c.r.). By the way, that's a modern thin-wall casting engine developed during and just after by WW2 by Barney Roos, senior or chief engineer at both Locomobile and Pierce-Arrow in the 1920s. On the other hand, the 4-cyl block started life in the 1927 Whippet and was modified substantially over the years. It's not at all uncommon that L-head 6-cyl engines are transplanted into Jeepsters originally equipped with L-head (1948-49) or even F-head (1950) 4s. I agree with the comment by Jack M in the other thread that you leave the engine number out of it in discussions with DMV. Worst that can happen is that DMV assigns you a "Special Construction" number and a metallic sticker to apply to your chassis.
  14. Grimy

    1949 Jeepster- VIN location Model INFO?

    Yes, see my post of a few minutes ago in the other thread. About to go out for the evening.
  15. Grimy

    1949 Jeepster VIN Numbers

    Dave, Do you have a 6-cyl or pre-1946 4-cyl in that car? Because you have a *four* cylinder car serial number. In brief, early 1949 Jeepster serial numbers began with 4-63 (4 cyl, 63 hp) and 6-63 (6-cyl, 63 hp); mid-1949 they changed to VJ-2 prefix (4-cyl) and VJ-3 (6-cyl). The 4-63 and 6-63 prefixes were also used on 2WD station wagons and pickups, not so the VJs. The 1946-49 L-4 engine number was behind the water pump on a boss on the block just in front of the front end of the cyl head, and began with a U. The 1935-42 L-4 was as shown on your car, "on upper right front of cylinder block." I can't read your engine number--can you please spell it out? There are no "matching numbers." I can't read anything on the copper plate but you might try a headstone-rubbing technique. The MoToR Repair Manual shows differences for serial number locations among Willys models: "1946-53 station wagon: on floor riser back of driver's seat--outside front end left frame side rail; 1949-53[sic] Jeepster: under edge of cowl above glove box door." BTW, those are not the original screws holding your serial tag on, but I won't tell! Mercer09: You wouldn't believe the drill I went thru 8 yrs ago re-registering a 1939 Cad 75 after a 20-year hiatus, despite old reg in my name and a 1968 title in my name--and I have a unique surname. CA is not easy unless a car is still in the system by means of non-op.