Grimy

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Grimy last won the day on December 24 2016

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About Grimy

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  1. Afterthought: IF you overdo the neatsfoot oil, prop the clutch pedal in the fully depressed position for an hour or so, and the excess will be squeezed out.
  2. My hearing is pretty well shot, so I can't make out the detail of the conversation. But do you have a clutch brake? In my cone-clutch 1918 Pierce (clutch relined with Kevlar, rather than leather, when restored, so ATF rather than neatsfoot oil is the right lubricant for Kevlar), there is a clutch brake consisting of two pads which slow/stop the clutch when the clutch pedal is FULLY depressed. The technique is to depress the clutch FULLY **ONLY** when shifting at a stopped position into 1st or reverse. (Actually, on the 4-speed Pierce, I use 1st only when starting on a grade or desiring to go at crawl speed. So I fully depress the clutch pedal and engage the clutch brake at a stop sign, for example, going into 2nd gear.) While moving, depress the clutch part-way while up- or down-shifting so as NOT to engage the clutch brake. Check your Owner's Manual for adjustment of the clutch brake, if equipped. Another issue is to periodically lubricate the cross shaft, seen in this video, by means of any oil holes / oil cups / grease cups / grease fittings provided. I find that I need to pull the floor boards and lube the cross shaft about every 500 miles. If you find your cross shaft dry or sticky, initially try penetrating oil or 5W30; once it's freed up, use SAE 30.
  3. @ljn: In my 1990 edition (first was 1978) of the William C. Williams Motoring Mascots of the World ISBN 1-55868-043-8, either your mascot (winged version) or its original (if yours is a copy) is image #872 on page 209. The text reads: "Fairie 4-1/8 inches tall, chrome plated." There is no mention of the sculptor. The index I mentioned only lists known sculptors--unfortunately, without reference to images. The sculptor index lists "Maillard, C. born Chulet, 1876" -- note spelling variant from Terry Bond's "Millard." Google tells us of a sculptor Charles Maillard, 1876-1973, but I haven't found a reference to his work being used as automotive mascots. @Walt G: Horrors! Your post shows you as a Junior Member with 119 posts! Hopefully the moderators can upgrade you to the senior status you deserve! I don't wish to hijack this thread and will post a new thread with photos in a few days, but while I have the attention of Terry and Walt, I ask for any info you may have on my long-owned rearing Pegasus (rearing at 45 degrees, standing on a ~ 1 inch diameter sphere), signed "E. Martin." The collection of numbers on the base are a "sideways 5", then 3492, then 25 within a circle. The finish is (worn) nickel over apparent bronze, and it measures almost 6" high and almost 5" for-and-aft.
  4. "edinmass" (Ed Minnie) is your man on the V-12s. I'm sure he'll respond soon.
  5. Retrieved the book this morning and checked the index without finding a similar name to what we think it may be. I'm trying to get outside work done today before a storm tomorrow. I'll go thru the book carefully during Friday's rain (about six photographs per page, ~200 pages).
  6. Amen! Here in The Pipples Republik of Caleeforneeya, one can get Horseless Carriage (HC--thru 1922 + V-16s to 1964) or Historic Vehicle (HV--others to 1974 or so) plates which cost $2 ad valorem (based on the price you swore you paid) in addition to basic registration fees. Cheapest total registration in my county is $93 per year per car. To get those HC or HV plates, one must sign a DMV form that you will use the vehicle ONLY for tours and to/from shows, parades, etc.; HOWEVER, a section of the Vehicle Code (VC) says "principally" for such activities. I construe "principally" as 51%, and thus carry a copy of that VC section with my registration and proof of insurance. If you have regular plates, including the prized "black plates" issued 1963-70, or YOM, you must pay full ad valorem on what you certified you paid for the car. A little over a year ago, I was finally, after 18 years, able to acquire the 1918 Pierce I'd lusted after for all those years, wearing 1918 porcelain plates registered to it for years. When the renewal came due, the State wanted a modest $949 to renew registration for one year. Needless to say, I converted to HC plates. You guys in Virginia have it made!
  7. I'll hazard a guess that the first name is William. Might check for "Mall" or "Man" as well for the last name. Will try to find my "Mascots" book tomorrow.
  8. Can someone make out the signature on the base? If so, Google the name. Or check "mascots of the World" by Williams for the name.
  9. And where wire replacement might be too difficult, at very least apply shrink tubing.
  10. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE GOING UNDER THERE WITH A NUT DRIVER OR WRENCH IN YOUR HAND! LABEL, PHOTOGRAPH EVERYTHING!
  11. Last month a mutual friend introduced me to a very interesting and affable man who is a past and future Peking-to-Paris competitor, and we visited the shop preparing his car for the 2019 (as I recall) P-to-P. The car is a late '30s convertible sedan, approx. 126" wheelbase, which has been gutted, tubular reinforcing and rollbar added, cross-country HD shocks added to the factory equipment, dual (redundant) fuel cells and pumps in the trunk replacing the original tank, HD wheels with what I would call "major mudder" tires fitted, new dash with many gauges and rally instruments added, Recaro seats, and the list goes on and on and on. IMHO, there is no way that these modifications can EVER be reversed and the car re-restored. The engine is stock *in appearance* (but with internal tweaks) except for dual carbs on a period aftermarket manifold, and a modern high performance ignition system. A 1980s/90s truck floor shift transmission and a more modern rear differential have been installed. The body is stock on the outside except for the appearance of the wheels. All work is of exceptional quality, and I'll wager his investment will be twice as much as a professional show restoration of the same car. These gents are very SERIOUS!
  12. That's correct, The three larger series series use the same lens, and the 40 is different (and plainer). The chrome ring in the middle is sometimes missing from those you find, so if you have one on a broken or cracked lens, save it!
  13. Same lens 1934-35 series 50-60-90, if that helps your search. Sorry I don't have one--my long-held 1934 56S has been gone 10 years,
  14. Good morning, pont35cpe, your interesting question sent me back to my trusty 1935-46 MoToR Manual that I bought in a thrift store for 25 cents in 1962. The inverted pump is a Type AA by AC fuel pumps. The diagram shows a vertically mounted almost cylindrical strainer within the bowl, so apparently fuel is pumped into the bowl and through the strainer into the line serving the carb. The narrative doesn't explain even that,
  15. The "inverted" pump (bowl on top, upside down, was a 1943-and-later service replacement item for Cadillac to address vapor lock issues encountered with the factory upright pump used 1937-42; I don't know whether Buick did likewise. Yes, it's messy to check but infrequently done. Paper or plastic cup is helpful to catch more than half of the dumped fuel, and old towels underneath are useful. Regarding the factory flexible hose entering the pump, take your old one in to a place like Hoses Unlimited and they'll make one up for you out of braided stainless within a day--while you wait, if you're lucky. But then you need to fake the original lacquered cloth-over-rubber sure-to-die-soon hose. I've taped off the fittings on both ends, sprayed on about six coats of rattle can paint, then while the last coat is still tacky, touched it with a red shop towel to replicate the textured appearance of the original.