Grimy

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Grimy last won the day on June 7

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About Grimy

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  1. Grimy

    thermostat is there a housing needed on flat 6 engine

    I'm throwing this issue out to stimulate comment by the flathead MoPaR experts (i'm not one): On Jeep vehicles originally equipped with the bulkier ether-filled t'stats, when the latter were replaced with the smaller modern style, a copper/brass insert for the neck was offered to take up space and hold the modern t'stat firmly in place. A MoPaR specialty parts vendor will have these IF the same solution was pursued by Chrysler Corp.
  2. There was a recent thread which in part addressed the correct routing of the fuel line on a 1941--may have been on the big 320 engine. A photo was provided.
  3. Grimy

    Auto Theft Devicey

    It is for use on wood-spoked wheels. The pointy side goes to the outside and functions like the more modern "Denver Boot." The "signal" occurs when the wooden wheel is destroyed in its first revolution.
  4. Grimy

    1929 ford model A pickup fluid change

    First, I can understand why (liability) commercial places don't want to work on it AND use the customer's fluids. Almost 60 years ago when I was working in a gas station while in HS, the station had a sign saying we won't install customer's parts and comparing it to the customer bringing his own bacon and eggs to the diner. My boss explained it to me as if we supply parts/fluids, we make money on the parts as well as the labor--why give that up? Suggest the vehicle be driven 30 minutes or more immediately before draining the transmission and differential to get the 600W warm and thus thinner to make the drain more effective and quicker. Plan on letting these components drain for at least 30 minutes before replacing the drain plugs. One-quart squeeze bottles work best for me to fill those units.
  5. Grimy

    1935 Buick S40 torque specs

    Back to the OP's as yet unanswered questions--at least one of them, pertaining to the water jacket cover/plate: I've done these on my 1934 Buick 50 of happy memory, and on at least a dozen Pierce-Arrow 6s (Series 80) and 8s with similar sheet metal covers. The following includes lessons learned the Hard Way. The female threads in the block are fragile because they probably have been somewhat eroded. Accordingly, it is better to set them a tad loose initially, then snug after some heating and cooling cycles. Repeat and rinse. Use #2 Permatex on the capscrew threads. If you're not going to undergo serious judging, use a small diameter flat washer to spread the load on the cover/plate a bit more. I don't recall whether Buick used lock washers (too long ago) but Pierce did NOT; in such a case, use a tooth washer as well as a flat washer. Initially, use a nut driver or no greater than a 1/4-inch drive ratchet applying pressure to only the ratchet head to tighten the capscrews, and make about six or more passes to complete the initial tightening. Afterthought: hope you've run a chasing (not a cutting) tap through the holes.
  6. Grimy

    1929 DA ignition coil

    ADD an additional condenser ("Pardon my redundancy," as WC Fields used to remark) with the lead attached to the coil terminal which is connected to the points. Use a jumper wire to ground the case. Go for a drive....
  7. Grimy

    1937 Special Hot Differential/Rear Wheels

    Afterthought: My Jeepster owners manual is VERY explicit that although EP gear oil (GL4 and up) must be used in the differential, the transmission and overdrive must have only "straight mineral oil" or GL1.
  8. Grimy

    1937 Special Hot Differential/Rear Wheels

    Much more sulfur/sulfurous compounds in GL5 than in GL4, and *apparently* in GL6 synthetic. And that stuff is hostile to yellow metals.
  9. Grimy

    1937 Special Hot Differential/Rear Wheels

    Agreed for modern vehicles, but the following explains why I don't use synthetic gear oil in older cars. In 1997 I auditioned retirement by driving my 1936 Pierce-Arrow from Oakland CA to Cleveland OH for the wedding of a good friend's daughter, then on to Superior, WI for the Pierce-Arrow Society annual meet, then home via US 2 through the Dakotas, Montana (including Glacier Park). I had a telephone conversation with a PhD chemist at Sta-Lube, who assured me that their GL-6 synthetic gear oil would pose no threat to the yellow-metal bushings and thrust washers in my differential. So I used it. Eastbound in Wyoming, about 900 miles from home, at a rest area I went to refill a leaking rear shock and found the differential to be as hot as the hinges of hell. I made my way to a parts store and purchased a drain pan and GL-4 conventional gear oil. The draining synthetic had the dreaded golden sparkles of disintegrating yellow metal. Changed the oil again in Des Moines while visiting friends and saw only a minimal trace of the golden sparkles. Must have caught it in time, because the car has many more thousands of miles with GL-4 and no excessive heat.
  10. Grimy

    Pre war cars insane prices

    We're at least 90% of the way there....
  11. Grimy

    67 Chrysler Newport no lights

    In that case, I hope you can find a wrecking yard connector with an inch or more of the color-coded wires still attached. That is, get the yard to cut off a small part of the harness when they pull the connector. Might as well get a back-up headlight switch at the same time, if available. Next best option is to spring for a 1967 shop manual. Finally, there is the Hard Way: Examine switch against diagram to see where the 12V input (hot wire) enters. Using a VOM, find the hot wire. Then, with power applied to the switch, use a jumper wire from each different switch position to each unattached wire to see which lamps are connected to that wire.
  12. Grimy

    Brake lights on again!

    Right, specifically the PEDAL return spring. Thanks, John.
  13. Grimy

    Brake lights on again!

    How about the brake return spring, whose attachment hole is visible in your photo of the as-yet-unrestored pedal and master cylinder assembly?
  14. You should use SAE 90 GL-4 EP (extreme pressure) gear oil, available at O'Reilly's and other chain stores. These days the shelves are full of GL-5, which is for limited-slip, so be sure you get GL-4, which is much easier on any yellow-metal (e.g., brass, bronze) components that may be in the diff. If the diff is loose/worn, use 140 weight or mix half-and-half with the same brand's 90.
  15. Grimy

    Pierce Arrow

    And unless the gearing has been changed, you wouldn't be comfortable doing so. 🙂 Hell, I drive my 1918 Pierce 48-B-5 dual valve, 7'8" tall with the top up, almost twice that--55 mph. This will get the Packard boys and girls spun up!