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Grimy last won the day on December 24 2016

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About Grimy

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  1. I bought Westinghouse ignition points from him at Bakersfield, CA on April 8, where he had a walk-in vendor trailer which he said contained only 5% of his inventory. I asked about other parts, and he said he didn't have with him and would have to look at home. From that, I infer that while he's on the road, he doesn't have a complete inventory immediately accessible to him. This was my only contact with him after seeing him mentioned on this forum. Although he was busy, he took the time to be very helpful, and I considered his price very fair.
  2. And it appears to have the long wheelbase (143"), too.....
  3. 1925 Pierce-Arrow Series 80, 6-cyl, single ignition. Would idle fine up to 700 rpm, then sputter badly--undriveably. If the clutch was slipped at low rpm, the engine would sputter as soon as load was applied even under 700 rpm. Re-set ignition points, added supplemental new condenser, no help. The points were now 'way out of adjustment. After MUCH head-scratching by two of us (the other was far more skilled at vintage iron than I), we added an inductive timing light which went all over the place when the 700 rpm no-load was exceeded. The vertical pivot on which the points were mounted was ever-so-slightly loose in the distributor plate, not loose enough for either of us to notice while re-setting the points. On this car, the pivot was not pressed into the plate but was secured on the underside of the plate by a nut and split washer. Apparently the split washer had fatigued over 71 years (this was in 1996) just enough to allow the pivot to wobble almost imperceptibly, but enough to radically change the point adjustment under the points' spring tension. The cure was a new #8 split washer!
  4. I'll let Ed answer that question! Clue: Don't be fooled by the headlights!
  5. I agree with 4 psi AND with Ed's comments about ceramic seals and their longevity--I have four cars with the ceramic seals installed 10-22 years ago with no issues. For the 4 psi (no more than that), consider using a remote fill tank (was mounted on inner fender panel) from an early 1960s FoMoCo V8 with a neck ready for a pressure cap and an overflow tube. These are metal and can be mounted low, on the frame--but if done that way you will have to fill through the OEM neck, which needs a good seal. I have a couple of similar BMW plastic remote-fill tanks around the shop too, but they won't look right. A friend has the FoMoCo units on the frame on his '27 and '28 Buicks and only has to top off annually.
  6. YES!!! And if you don't have RIMS, you have wheel nuts, not LUGNUTS
  7. Before you pull the driveshaft, shake it to check for major looseness and check the tightness of all bolts.
  8. Check the tightness of all the wheel nuts on all four wheels. Jack up each front wheel, one at a time with the other on the ground and shake each wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, then at 9 and 3. Compare results. Does the vibration occur while the clutch is disengaged? That is, at say, 35 mph, disengage the clutch and coast. Vibration still there? Check the tightness of front suspension components and rear springs. I'd be inclined to replace the driveshaft and old u-joints with available-anywhere, greaseable ones, just on General Principles--stand the old one with u-joints in a corner until you find replacements, if ever. Unless you're shooting for absolute max points at a Stude meet or at Pebble Beach, the more modern driveshaft and u-joints, easily done at a driveline shop near you, will serve you infinitely better than the originals. Did that with my Jeepster to replace the Rzeppa joints.
  9. We're so glad you checked back in--and even more glad that you're addressing what needed doing! You're well on the way!
  10. Lamar, I hereby grant you permission to use the Dogpatch Motors (my shop) slogan... FINE CARS, GUARANTEED USED
  11. My apologies for hijacking the thread in favor of Pierces, but the Loco-Pierce competitive instincts run strong on both sides... :-)
  12. Hi Carl, I'll send you a PM with my short "away" schedule. Let's go for a spin in my New Toy (even after 15 months, it's still 'new' to me, despite 1,800 miles in my first 10 months of ownership, and affords more smiles per mile than any other car I've ever had, the 1918 Pierce-Arrow 48-B-5 5-p touring. Like the Loco 48, it's 4.5 x 5.5 bore and stroke for 525 cubic inches, BUT the 5th series had dual valves (4 valves per cylinder) which resulted in a 40% bhp increase to at least 110. It stands 7'8" with top up (measured on the high side) although the Salesman's Data Book says 7'4". Its base price at Buffalo was $6,400 and closed cars were substantially more (>$8,000). Since most people don't have the inflation calculator accessible, I usually describe the cost as that of SEVENTEEN new Model T Ford touring cars. Here's a photo from almost 10 years ago before I acquired it--but had been drooling over it since 1998.
  13. Carl, you know better: DON'T CALL IT 'FRISCO'!!!! :-) George
  14. Running the battery ground to a starter mounting bolt is an old trick to increase starter performance, especially in 6V systems, and may have been necessary to get decent starter performance due to the too-small 12V ground cable. I suggest you change both cable to 00 (double ought) welding cable and run the ground to where the factory installed it. Local battery companies often will make your 00 cables up while you wait.
  15. I use diesel crossover 15W-40 oil (I prefer the term 'dispersant' to the more common 'detergent') in my fleet, but all have had their oil pans down and the pans and oil pumps cleaned. Concerning re-torqueing, it makes a difference whether you're using a NORS copper-asbestos (sandwich) head gasket or the reproduction gaskets with a form of plastic replacing the asbestos. In the latter case, I've found it necessary to re-torque at least four or five times, vs. perhaps two re-torques with copper-asbestos gaskets. Always re-torque COLD (i.e., after letting it sit overnight). You have soft steel bolts/studs and do not want too much torque which would pull the threads out of the block--I think about 55 lb-ft is about right.