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Grimy last won the day on December 24 2016

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About Grimy

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  1. For Sale 1922 Paige 6-66 7 passenger sedan

    They are indeed great but overlooked cars, and are now accepted as Full Classics by the Classic Car Club of America (CCCA). I have a "refurbished" (not "restored") 1922 6-66 Larchmont II 4-passenger phaeton. More photos would be helpful in communicating the condition. I post here primarily to bring this thread to the top for more attention. That said, prices on these cars are soft. I have no doubt that you have cubic dollars in the restoration but that doesn't necessarily mean that you can recoup those expenses. There is no "Paige Club" per se, but the cars are accepted as predecessors in the Graham Paige Owners Club International (GOCI). You might want to cross-post in the Graham and Paige section. Best wishes for the sale.
  2. Day Brightener for Art Deco Fans

    My 1934 Pierce-Arrow "production" Silver Arrow 840A (8 cyl): A total of about 50 SAs were built 1934-35, vast majority of them in 1934, 144" wheelbase (5" longer than the 1933 halo SAs), available as either 8s or 12s and with or without sidemounted spares. Twelve such cars have been registered with the Pierce-Arrow Society since the PAS founding in 1957. Some observers seem to look down at these "production" SAs but they were a fraction of the $10,000 1933 price: base price for SA 8s was $3,495 and the 12 cost an additional $400. This is by far the most head-turning car I've ever owned. They look best in motion.
  3. Foaming radiator

    For unpressurized systems, use the least amount of antifreeze you can for your climate and storage conditions, and some other anti-corrosion compound. Search for my posts on Pencool 2000 or 3000 within the last couple of weeks. I bought my 1922 Paige from a gent who was a soluble oil obsessive, and it took me days of Better Living Through Chemistry (multiple flushes, multiple flushing agents) to remove the mud/sludge it forms with small debris particles (use a stocking toe in top tank, better than Gano--see my other posts on that). Beyond that, soluble oil coats the outside cylinder walls and inhibits heat transfer. Trimicar is very correct about water pump air leaks causing foaming, BUT 50% EG antifreeze in my then-newly-acquired 1934 Pierce (an unpressurized system) equipped with modern seals rather than packing blew out 1.5 gallons of coolant at 55 mph every 90 minutes. Now, using only water and Pencool 2000 ( my climate doesn't require antifreeze), I top off with 1.0 to 1.5 qts (26 qt system) every 600-700 miles. I have the same results with my 1930 roadster, which also has the modern-seal pump.
  4. Number 12 Screws, Aaarrgh!

    From the Fastenal near me, I bought replacement cylinder head hex nuts that were marked as the correct inch-dimensional size--and also marked "made in China"--but fit too loosely on the studs for proper torqueing. US-made nuts from another source fit perfectly, Never again...
  5. Tire pump hose

    Restoration Supply sells a 19-inch long hose for engine mounted tire inflators such as Kellogg. See page 26 of their recently-arrived 2018 catalog, which you can view and download online. Thread sizes not mentioned. Hose (part no, ACC176, $10) and related hardware kit (ACC178, $12) are sold separately. Call them at 800-306-7008 to discuss thread size--wonderful, helpful folks with whom I have no connection except as a satisfied customer.
  6. Cannot find water pump lube and anti-rust additive

    I use Pencool, a big rig additive formerly known as Nal-Cool, which has anti-corrosion, water pump lube, and anti-cavitation properties. It comes in two varieties. Pencool 2000 for NO antifreeze (I don't need antifreeze in my climate, and antifreeze foams in my unpressurized systems, forcing water out at speed), and Pencool 3000 (for any amount, even less than 50%, of anti-freeze). Best price, and easiest place to find, is on Amazon. I find the most convenient package size is the 64 oz (half-gallon) jug. Initial dosage is 1 oz per quart of cooling system capacity, and a lesser topoff/replacement dose. However, since my cars' unpressurized systems (all except the 4 psi Jeepster) use some coolant, I top off with 4 oz of Pencool in a gallon jug of water. My systems remain clean with this product, which I've been using for well over a decade. A couple of years ago I confirmed the type application with a chemist at Penray Corp., the manufacturer. Hastings Cool and certain others say on their websites, if not on the container, that they are NOT recommended for use in unpressurized systems.
  7. Last photo of Grandpa's cars

  8. Sorry about the injury--I've had a few close calls when rushing but I never seem to learn. A long autumn drive is a great reward for your efforts--I did one yesterday in the 1918, but the downside is that the drive usually adds a few items to our punch lists.... Today I'm trailering the '30 roadster over the hill (Sierras) to Minden NV (site of 2013 PAS Meet) for an all-day-Sunday memorial service/party for the wife of one of our members. Minden will be a tad cold (28-30*F) in the mornings for driving it both ways.
  9. Looking great, Ed! Sorry I won't be a Hershey to see it in the flesh, as it were. Did this car originally have a leather top (CF body code, I think) or plain top (C)?
  10. Ed, you know that the rear lights are reversed on this car--backup light should be on the left (outside), and the stoplight is the innermost lens! Fie! :-)
  11. Mitchell Overdrive

    I've been to the Mitchell facility several times; it is a small family business. Sue Mitchell, in her 80s, is an absolute delight, and actually called me, out of the blue, in June to see how my 3 units were doing (my 3 were part of a group buy of 16 units five years ago for local, Pierce, Packard, and Cadillac owners). If Sue isn't available, talk to Cindy and no one else. A certain male there is always grumpy and could p*ss off the Good Humor Man, Late 1930s installations, especially if they include the optional 3/16 or 1/4" thick metal plate for suspension, can be noisy when in OD under 40 mph, principally because cars of that vintage are quieter than the Model As that these units were designed for. Properly insulating the plate mounting points reduces the harmonics. I've only installed one of mine, in a 1925 Pierce-Arrow Series 80 sedan with factory 4.88 gears which used to have a cruise speed of 36-37, screaming at 41; now it's comfortable at 49 mph with an effective final drive ratio of 3.61 (26% option) yet retaining excellent hill climbing ability in direct. Our forum member GLong installed mine, and had Mitchell drill the case for installation with the push-pull actuator on the RIGHT side for a flipped installation. He fabricated linkage to bring a shifter up through the hand brake slot.
  12. My 1934 had vacuum boosted "power" mechanical brakes.
  13. What is it engine

    Agree with the Willys L-134 ID. The manifolding is another clue.
  14. Packard

    "Call Jim for more info" but no phone number.... Must be a rocket scientist....
  15. Ed, please photograph the original exhaust and measure the muffler, and send to Arnold for a Service Bulletin article. It's so rare to find one with original exhaust to use as model for correct restoration!