Grimy

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Grimy last won the day on December 24 2016

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  1. 1921 Elgin Restoration Project To Adopt

    All the more credit to those who incur restoration costs and time on projects that will not return costs, much less profit, in their lifetime!
  2. That 1951 Vicky hardtop has '49-'50 taillight lenses and the '51 excess adjoining chrome has been removed--common 50 years ago, but interesting to see today ....
  3. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    Scott, I'm pretty sure the material is copyrighted, but you might contact the author, John Washburn, at johnDOTwashburn47 AT gmail DOT com I corresponded with him on his series on problems with NOS condensers, and he was willing to help.
  4. Questions about an old car

    I'm neither an accountant nor a tax (or any other kind of) attorney, but here's my understanding. If you donate during your lifetime to a 501(c)(3), YOU are responsible for getting the appraisal and if the 501(c)(3) sells it **within three years** you have to amend your return for the donation year to change the value of the donation up or down to the 501(c)(3) proceeds. Of course, they have to tell you.. There is sometimes an unspoken agreement that the 501(c)(3) will sit on the item just over the 3-year threshold, but they will never agree in writing to do so. In estates, collectible items including cars are "bumped up" to current value, just like real estate, but an appraisal **as of the date of death** is required if you want to beat Capital Gains tax. In Calif, selling a car acquired cheaply and owned for decades will be subject to 20% Federal long-term Capital Gains and 9.3% Cap Gain tax. Of course, you can write off the deductible expenses of the years relating to the maintenance and improvement of this "asset." And if a car is jointly owned with one's wife as marital property, in a community-property state like Calif., when either spouse passes, the car is bumped up to full value as of the date of death. But be sure to get an appraisal **as of the date of death** even if the actual work of the appraisal is done much later. None of the above should be construed as legal or tax advice; discuss with your professionals.
  5. Packard Twelve versus Pierce Twelve

    Wow! Now THERE'S a wonderful reason to buy an expensive car that's wound out at 50 mph! Or, another technique for a silent departure from the curb is to engage the clutch in 1st without throttle and upshift to 2nd at about 4 mph and a second later add throttle. For 1936-38, Pierce used the Borg-Warner R-1 mechanical OD with 4.58 gears, nearly as low as Packard's 4.69, but the effective final ratio in OD was 3.23. It's an excellent combination. Pierces through 1920 were tall-geared despite the roads of the day and their 25-inch wheels used 1918-20. My 1918 has 3.53s and the standard ratio for 5-p tourings was 3.33. For 1921 (Series 32), the Company deliberately (per the Saleman's Data Book) went to a 3-speed trans (vs earlier 4-speed) and 4.0 and deeper gears depending on body style to make shifting easier--by not having to shift as frequently. One would think that the synch-2nd-and 3rd transmissions adopted by both Pierce and Packard for 1932 would have been sufficient reason for them to gear their cars a little taller.
  6. I believe that Lincoln (and Cadillac) ordered the nameplates from a separate company. Nameplates and font were identical, just the marque logos differed. I've seen the Lincoln versions as well as the Cadillac. When I acquired a 1964 60S Fleetwood in **1970** as a daily driver, a friend who owned a Cadillac-Olds dealership ordered one for me. Upon receipt, the nameplate company's name was on the envelope and I ordered another for my 1939 Cadillac 75. I believe I have that envelope (Lord knows why!) in my files, but I can't get to it for a day or two. I have no idea if they're still in business 47 years later. Please send me a PM if you'd like me to exhume that envelope--I know where it is, but I'll be away for 24 hours. My garbage memory tells me as I type this that the company's name was "Exclusively Yours."
  7. Cars That Made America

    I hope the professional historians are cringing and regretting their participation. There were so very many errors that I only will mention one: "Ed Cole" was trying to show his boss what a "hot rod" performance would be with a V8--from the context, installed in a Chevy. The "Chevy" was a 1955 Mercury, and Ed Cole's V8 appeared in the 1955 Chevy.
  8. 39 LaSalle Shifting

    It's a Cadillac transmission. (I owned a 1939 Cad 75 for 42 years.) I agree with the need to replace the rubber bushings/grommets at the end of the shift rods. Also ensure thorough lubrication of the "sliders" on the steering column, under the hood. Grit is attracted as causes them to bind. I'd be inclined to flood these areas with aerosol penetrating oil, blow it out with shop air, then re-lubricate. When it hangs up (and it will periodically--this was the second year of column shift on Cadillac vehicles), the transmission linkage will be caught between two gear positions. Shut the engine off, raise the hood, and shake each rod at the top end, seeking the center position. It helps if someone holds the clutch down while you're doing this, or carry in the trunk a pedal depresser (broomstick plus a piece of 1 x 4 12" long with a hole near one end 1/16 larger than the broomstick diameter).
  9. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    Ed, I hope they work well for you--the old plugs are the ultimate detail. But in the last couple of months of the Cadillac and LaSalle Club's magazine, the tech editor tested NOS AC plugs with a >75% failure rate right out of the box. He attributed the failure to the sealing materials and technique used on the porcelain. So I recommend you be prepared with Brand X of your choice for the Tour (see you there) and perhaps save the NORS ACs for Sunday judging.
  10. IIRC, the show's Part 2 claimed Durant died "shortly afterwards" from his second dismissal as President of GM. Apparently, for them 27 years (1947) is "shortly afterwards"....
  11. 1936 Pierce-Arrow

    All 1936-38 Pierce-Arrows, both 8s and 12s, had Borg-Warner R-1 mechanical overdrives as standard equipment.
  12. Options for a 1934 Buick?

    Hi Victor, you're correct: one was for Series 40, the other for Series 50/60/90. I still have one of the latter hanging in my garage, but I think the one with the large black "B" was for the S40.
  13. 1934 Chrysler CA engine

    Mains clearance you observed at 0.003 tells me that bearings will have to be addressed. Loose cam bearings are also a major source of low oil pressure.
  14. 1937 One Twenty woody - made in USA?

    Well, it IS Sunday. Thank you for the homily, Reverend Hartmann....
  15. 1934 Chrysler CA engine

    Congratulations on acquiring this car! I had a 65,000-mile nice original 1934 CA sedan 50 years ago and remember it fondly. Simultaneously, a good friend with whom I lost contact had a CA convertible coupe which he allowed me to drive occasionally. And it's great to hear that you, unlike most of us, were able to get the One That Got Away so long ago. I never got into the bowels of the engine but did have to pull the transmission twice. I know it's not what you want to hear, but the advice you've been given--that there are no easy substitutions--is likely correct, as you're getting opinions from very knowledgeable folks. I think my course of action would be as follows: 1. Pull your engine, tear it down, take measurements, assess what needs to be done to restore THIS engine. The assessment will inform your next course of action. You MAY be able to rebuild the engine within three months. 2. AFTER the assessment, decide whether THIS engine is worth the expense and effort of rebuilding. Are sleeves necessary? Bearings and cranking turning necessary (cam bearings, too), or would shim removal do the job? 3. IF this engine is borderline, begin your search for another engine. CAs, and especially CBs, are pretty scarce. Do you want to expend the effort to install a marginal or worn engine for the not-quite-immediate gratification? Only you can decide (1) whether you want to install a rebuilt engine that you'll never open up again in your lifetime, or (2) a "temporary" engine so you can drive this long-desired car, and spend money and time on the original. Best wishes no matter your choice!