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Grimy last won the day on December 24 2016

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    Add a couple of spaces for quicker understanding. Bernie, do you have a computer program which creates these personalized plates?
  2. 1935 buick 56s overheating

    Matt, I know the 60 and 90 series had the bypass, and the 50 MAY have had it--too long ago, But you are absolutely right. And if the 50 doesn't have the bypass, he should still drill two 1/8 inch holes in the base of the thermostat.
  3. 1935 buick 56s overheating

    I'll bet the spring he added was inside the lower radiator hose to keep it from collapsing inward under suction. I'm trying to remember the lower hose routing on my long-gone 1934 56S (great cars, by the way, so congratulations!). Most cars of this period had metal tubing (replace with stainless exhaust pipe tubing) so that each connecting hose from pump inlet to lower radiator neck/outlet was no more than 4 or 5 inches long between metal pieces--to prevent such collapse. The original way is preferred. Get a shop manual: 1934 and 1935 Buicks are virtually identical. Have you removed the water jacket plate on the driver's side, behind the intake and exhaust manifolds? If not, you may find a huge buildup of rust and debris especially between the rearmost cylinders--that must be cleaned out, and it's a tedious job but necessary. Pay attention to how eroded that water jacket plate is on the inside. Braze any pinholes, perhaps apply an epoxy coating, and be sure to use plenty of anti-corrosion additive. I'm a true believer in using a nylon stocking as a coolant filter. Search the forums for stocking filters. If you can't find it, tell us so and I'll re-type. And please post photos of your car.

    Bernie, the suspicious thing was a big BMW "not being driven like an a**h***" which would be normal. Your *relative* caution so uncharacteristic of drivers of these cars made the cop suspect that you were holding product or otherwise doing something illegal. The he ran your plate, identified you, and checked with your local law enforcement who told them you were harmless.... That's why it took ten miles.
  5. 263 oil filter

    OK, so I went to the garage and consulted the 1997 Wix Master Catalog. It shows that 51126 fits '49-'53 Buicks--and nothing else. Element dimensions are height 4.958, OD = 4.092, ID = 0.533. Gasket is #15039 with these dimensions: OD = 5.125, ID = 4.375, thickness = 0.070. If they don't show a match, either.. 1. Check for an AC Filter for 1949-53 straight 8, which should start with PF... (my AC filter book is well buried. Perhaps someone has the AC number for a FACTORY oil filter (many of these were installed by dealers and can be any size--yours is factory) 2. Check the NAPA book's dimensional section for the next closest that will fit in the can. You'll also need a suction gun to clean out the can, then wipe out with lint-free towels. Be sure to fill the can almost full with oil after the new element is in, before you re-fit the lid.
  6. 263 oil filter

    Ask NAPA to cross the Wix 51126 number (rather than asking for their 1126) to be sure. They probably won't have it on the shelf but can get it within a day.
  7. 263 oil filter

    Perfect! NAPA Gold filters are made by Wix, and are very high quality. USUALLY (not always) NAPA drops the 5 and their number would be 1126. I can check my files tomorrow.
  8. 263 oil filter

    BTW, even though the parts computer may not have a listing for a 1951 Buick cartridge/element, industrial equipment of recent manufacture probably uses the same element. All you need is the element number.
  9. 263 oil filter

    What's the number on the top of the cartridge? You have to remove the lid to look for it. That's the number NAPA or any other decent parts house will cross--and if they can't we probably can. Don't lose or abuse the gasket under the lid--you may have to re-use it.
  10. Palm Canyon Drive 1934 & 1939

    Not just an Imperial (shorter wheelbase) but a Custom Imperial, about 145.5-inch wheelbase. IIRC, 1931 had hood louvers while '32 and '33 had hood doors.
  11. March April The Antique Automobile

    And a splendid, exceptional issue it was indeed, David! VERY WELL DONE, THANK YOU!
  12. baby lincoln grease/lubrication

    tohbi, my comments above are limited to engine oil and I didn't answer your question about transmission and differential oil. For the diff, use GL-4 gear oil (O'Reilly carries it) which is for Extreme Pressure (EP), not the usually-found GL-5 (for limited slip but not as friendly to yellow-metal components which you should assume for now that you have). Your choice of weight, 90 or 140, or make a half-and-half mixture of the same brand and type. Transmission: This assumes you have stick (and hopefully overdrive) rather than Hydramatic. I use GL-1 (straight mineral oil, not EP) in transmissions and overdrives. Sulfur in GL-4 and especially in GL-5 (you can smell it in the product) is not friendly to yellow metal (brass and bronze) such as synchronizers. My Jeepster owner's manual (it too has Borg-Warner OD) is explicit to use "straight mineral oil" (i.e., GL-1) in the trans and OD, but EP oil (i.e., GL-4) in the differential. I know a lot of people who have run GL-4 in trannies and ODs for years with no apparent ill effects--even me, years ago, but I feel safer with the right product. You may have to special order GL-1.
  13. baby lincoln grease/lubrication

    tohbi, there are weekly discussions, sometimes heated, on this forum about suitable motor oils for our old iron. I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40 oil in all my fleet for the following reasons, with which some will not agree: 1. Multigrade for fast flow on cold starts when wear is greatest. 2. Diesel cross-over oil (also approved by API [American Petroleum Institute] for gasoline engines has more zinc and phosphorus than gasoline-only oils, not THAT important unless you're working the engine really hard. Rotella has a bit more than Chevron Delo. 3. Synthetic may leak more than dino oil if you still have original type seals, AND the cost: I change my oil every 12-15 months, usually at the end of the touring season, irrespective of mileage, because oil filters don't remove liquid contaminants like water and acid. By changing the oil more frequently--and always do it HOT after a 45-minute run and let it drain for 30 minutes, you get rid of the liquid contaminants. I agree that synthetic affords incrementally better lubrication, but it gets pricey if you change it as frequently as I do. And today's oil is infinitely better than what was available almost 70 years ago.
  14. baby lincoln grease/lubrication

    tohbi, that's a great story about getting a Lincoln "for a song"--literally! I've always admired the 1949-51 Lincolns with the big 337 cid engine but never had one. My moniker comes from a mod to my unusual (family) middle name coupled with my spending a lot of time on old iron, and friends had that moniker engraved on my Army organizational mug almost 50 years ago. Thanks for the kind words about my greasy knowledge :-) but I've found it necessary to see what certain terms meant at the time a particular car was built. For example, Pierces 1925-28 have zerks (new at the time) on the steering box fill, but chassis grease will destroy the gear in short order and a lever-action gun will blow the seals. Each car came with a pistol grip "grease compressor" which when pushed dispensed a small short of 600W gear oil--and that was also used on chassis fittings [but I use modern chassis grease on the latter]. And usually Pierce referred to 600-W as "Special Compound" -- where the heck do you get THAT? So some research is in order, best done thru a club specializing in the particular marque and model year range. Strongly suggest you track down a factory shop manual, either original or reprint. Not only will it answer a lot of yet-to-be-asked questions AND will have the lube chart, but such manuals usually show what types of lube equipment in use at the time the car was built. I've had my pre-war cars' (all but the 1918) grease-cup pumps rebuilt with modern materials (sealed bearings replacing bushings + modern lip seals) so that there is no more packing and the grease cups are only decorative. And the Jeepster has a modern sealed bearing pump from the factory. But in all my cars I use Pencool coolant additive, a big rig product, Pencool 2000 if you have no anti-freeze or Pencool 3000 if you use any amount of anti-freeze. Initial dosage is 1 oz per quart of cooling system capacity. It's hard to find in stores, but Amazon has best price, and I find the half-gallon (64 oz) jug the most convenient. Anti-freeze (use only green ethylene glycol [EG]) retains its freeze protection indefinitely, but its anti-corrosion and water pump lube properties disappear with time (2-3 years). I have no connection with Pencool other than as a happy customer, but have discussed which product to use with their chemist. My top-off gallon jugs have 4 oz Pencool before adding water, so this substitutes for the "make-up dose" on the label. In the 10-15 years I've been using this product, my cooling systems remain clear and clean. Please post some photos of your car! VBR, George AKA Grimy
  15. Right Tire Pressure

    Big difference between bias and radial pressures, too. Since DOT has mandated max tire pressure (TP) in sidewalls, those numbers are for COLD inflation. And those are MAXIMUM pressures. Back in the dark ages (late 50s/early 60s) when I worked in a gas station, contemporary cars had decals, usually inside the glove box door, with "recommended" (VERY LOW) tire pressures, like 24-26. Tires were only good for 18-20,000 miles in those days, and those "recommended" pressures were intended to give a soft boulevard ride. We gas jockeys always inflated those tires to 30-32 psi, EXCEPT... My boss insisted that any car brought in for a tune-up always got a free wash, glass cleaned inside and out, and dashboard dusted and polished, AND the tp adjusted to the recommended amount. Customers always said that was the best tune-up they'd ever had!