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Grimy last won the day on December 24 2016

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About Grimy

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  1. Seem to not be original Pierce, which were: 1921-28 Bausch & Lomb fluted flat lenses, in three different diameters, depending on series 1929 used McKee--flat 1930 used TWOLITE convex 1931-32 used TILTRAY convex ALL of the above: same lens left and right
  2. Ohm out all low tension distributor wiring; you may have a grounded out wire. How's the condenser test? Reading your mind, I'm gonna guess this is your 8th Model A FORD, since you didn't specify a make
  3. Magnificent car, magnificent restoration!
  4. Hi Dave, Are the lenses flat or convex? "Smiley face" with curve? Headlight or auxiliary light (they differ only in diameter)? If they're 1930, I'm interested, for spares. Thx! George
  5. You live a charmed life! Those Belchfire 8s can do just that and toast your fingers! I'd have started it from a gas can/motor boat tank for the first time, and would be working the throttle near the carb. Any Sleeping Beauty I ever got started needed a lot of throttle work to keep going until those valves freed up. Glad you got it going!
  6. Huh? Can you explain? If your generator puts out 20A vs 35A in another car, the lower charge rate means it takes longer to recharge the battery. How does the battery burn up the generator? The fleet in my signature use 6V Optimas with a variety of charging rates, and I've never fried an Optima or a generator while an Optima was installed.
  7. want to buy

    Bruno, he knows the products and has a large supply for early cars. He does travel to various swap meets, so I'm glad you emailed as well as telephoned.
  8. Oh yes indeed, including far less humidity! :-) That makes it almost worth it....
  9. Earl, I agree completely, but I guess it's easier for them to have a single policy, not that I agree with it. It's the triumph of the lawyers... When I have an older tire to repair, I go to the local 2-man tire shop or a truck tire shop and don't get any grief. BTW, Big O is a large chain west of the Mississippi. Out here on the Left Coast, gas stations rarely change/repair tires, and the few that do I wouldn't trust.
  10. want to buy

    Tom VanMeeteren in Valley, NE 402-three-five-nine-5762 tsvanmeetATgmailDOTcom
  11. The Big O tire chain, and a few others, have a written corporate policy prohibiting repair of tires over six years old by date code. This applies to both radial and bias without differentiation. I agree that radials deteriorate far more quickly on my modern iron than do the bias plies on the old iron.
  12. John Cislak of MA, who is on eBay as pierce_parts_store , reproduces these inexpensively in at least two sizes for 6-cyl and 8-cyl Pierce-Arrows. He'll need the approximate OD plus (assuming you have four bolts), the OC (On Center) distance between each pair of bolts. His phone (best way to reach him) is 413-five-four-three-9017. The bad condition of the old ones may be affecting your distributor timing IF the distributor runs off the generator.
  13. 28hupp, I can assure you that membership in the Hupp Club (and for other makes, the appropriate single-marque club) is the single greatest Return on Investment (ROI) you will ever receive. The tech support, availability of parts from longtime collectors--many of whom don't advertise elsewhere, and many other reasons cannot be equaled. In 1968 I joined Cadillac & La Salle Club immediately after acquiring a 1939 Cad 75; I joined the Pierce-Arrow Society in 1994 immediately after acquiring my 1925 sedan; and I joined the Graham-Paige Owners Club in 2000 immediately after acquiring my 1922 Paige. I have never regretted a nickel of my dues for all these years. In fact, if you have your heart set on one particular marque such as Hupp, membership in that single-marque club is the fastest and easiest way to get smart on issues such as the market, availability of parts, and which models are most desirable at different price points.
  14. Try this technique, which works on my 1930 Pierce with 2-barrel UUR-2 (authentic for '31-'32), and on my friend's 1931 Stude President 8, and I've tried many different techniques: 1. Fuel on, ignition on. 2. Retard spark all the way 3. Hand throttle fully open (full throttle--but be ready to *instantly* return it to near idle) 4. Full choke for first five seconds while cranking, then back to 1/4. 5. As soon as it fires, close throttle and advance spark These carbs have designed-in overflow drains with 5/16 tube going through splash pan, so I question the vacuum leak without further info.
  15. Rotate until exhaust valve is open all the way, then scrub with wire brushes and look for a crack. Do you know anyone with a magnetic crack detector? Some cracks are repairable with engine in car if it's a small crack. Lock-n-Stitch (google them) will sell their patented screws, but you need someone experienced to do the work. I once had a (non-Mopar) flathead 6 with a crack from the exhaust seat, across the deck, and 2 inches down into the cylinder. Block had to come out for that, took it to them, and had it back, pressure-tested, in about a week. Ran the car at least ten thousand miles after that repair.