oldford

Not on any Model T that I ever saw... Don't know what it is... Frank

Maybe a 1928 Graham Bros like this one. The original photo has shadowing around the radiator emblem that may be the same... Frank

To my knowledge, Reo did not use a magneto in 1925. Attached is a photo of the distributor used on my 1922 T6. It is positioned on the back of the generator. Frank

The windshield and cowl are all wrong for a 12 Reo. I found this photo of a 12 on Google and notice the windshield is on a filler board and it has a wooden dash. Certainly the emblem appears to be Reo, but that windshield mount is not 1912. I'll keep looking. Frank

The 4 items below the framing square are Model T fender brackets. Others are Model A. Frank

#7 (and the second one just like it) fit 1955-1957 Ford. Used with a wire wheel cover (Thunderbird for example). Frank

Here we go again... It reminds me of a saying I have about people in general. "If you repeat a lie enough times, it becomes the truth." It's only a matter of time... Watch this space. Frank

If I recall correctly, Reo's cylinders were fore and aft, not side to side. I don't think this is a Reo chassis. Frank

Only the Speed Wagon had the cowl mounted gas tank. Speedwagons were made from 1917 - 1926 as Model F and Model U, depending on the number of cylinders. Model F was 4 cylinders, Model U was 6. Frank

I would say 1955 Canadian Buick... Frank

They are all Model T. These were used on open cars that had electric starters and generators. No cars with electrics were shipped with kerosene cowl lights, therefore different windshield brackets were used... Frank

Could be a 1926 Chevrolet... Frank

With that roof line, could be a 25-26 Studebaker... Frank

Appears to be a 1927 Landau Coupe... Frank

Early Dodge Bros. had two keys in their spiders... Frank

That aluminum piece might be part of a Lovejoy coupling that was used to connect the engine shaft to the generator shaft. if so, easy to replace with new parts. Frank

Complete National Service Data 1958, 1959, 1960 for sale. Very Good condition, no soiling. $80 plus shipping. 518-755-0986.

Complete set of Service bulletins 1928-1930 photocopy. Not original. Sold the car years ago. $50 plus shipping. 518-755-0986.

"No. There is no easy way to test one. Well, not outside of a dedicated and very old test fixture few of us own. The reasons why are complicated. This post will probably be long. Sorry about that. " That handy meter from Amazon is about as easy as it gets. Let's not get complicated here. If you can use an ohm meter, you can use this one. $26 is as cheap as it gets... Frank

Leaf spring spreader...

Here in New York, we are not immune to roust-abouts... My favorite one is where State Route 76 crosses Interstate 87 in Malta. There are 5 roundabouts on Route 67 each no more than 600 feet from the other. It can be a nightmare the first time through. Between watching signs for the correct lane to watching drivers about to cut you off, you need eyes on all four sides of your head. Her is an aerial shot...

That was so obvious, I missed it........ Frank

This unit looks like it might be for a Ford Model T, but the mfg added an external oil pump. Both units run off the end of the cam shaft. You would have to verify the bolt pattern against a Model T timing cover to be sure. Nice unit... Frank

My guess would be that depends on how many times the points open or close. There is only an arc when the points open, and it's the arc that causes metal migration. Why not just replace the condenser when it needs to be replaced? Frank

Simply select a range that corresponds to the capacitor being tested and connect the leads. If polarity is critical, red to + black to -. Read the value in uf or pf whatever is appropriate. It's like using an ohm meter. Directions are in the box... That is, microfarad or picofarad, etc Frank