Steve Hammatt

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About Steve Hammatt

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/03/1944

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    http://www.leatherplates.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Mount Vernon WA USA

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  1. Marty, I'll be driving thru Decatur IL on the weekend before Hershey. Unfortunately not Decatur MI. If you could get it down to Fort Wayne or Toledo areas, I can bring the items on from there.
  2. Steve Hammatt

    "Gray & Davis" generator

    Generator is sold pending pickup at Hershey.
  3. Steve Hammatt

    Gray & Davis Type G1 Generator (Dynamo)

    Pending pick up at Hershey, this generator has found a new home. Thanks everybody.
  4. Steve Hammatt

    1913-1914 Chalmers Models 17, 18 & 19 Generator

    Pending pick-up at Hershey, it appears that this generator has found a new home.
  5. I have acquired an early Gray & Davis Type G1 Generator (Dynamo). After diligently looking up old reference books, I have discovered that the "Type G-1" spec's list 6-1/2 V, 9 Amperes and 1000 RPM. It took a bit of time, but apparently this generator (dynamo) was originally fitted to the 1913-1914 Chalmers, Models 17, 18 and 19. My unit appears complete, but certainly needs cleaning and internal checking with a complete rebuild probably required. It turns over quite easily, but still requires slightly more effort than ideal. It's quite dirty and cob-webby. Also, as can be seen in the photos, one of the four mounting feet needs some welding/fabrication. Offered at USD$250, plus shipping or better yet, stop by my vending space at Hershey (I'll only bring it if somebody wants it right away) at RED FIELD RWG 30-31, nr. Lamp Post #21. Steve Hammatt 2110 S 19th ST Mount Vernon WA 98274 USA 360-661-6060 (cell & text) http://www.leatherplates.com
  6. I have acquired an early Gray & Davis Type G1 Generator (Dynamo). After diligently looking up old reference books, I have discovered that the "Type G-1" spec's list 6-1/2 V, 9 Amperes and 1000 RPM. It took a bit of time, but apparently this generator (dynamo) was only originally fitted to the 1913-1914 Chalmers, Models 17, 18 and 19. My unit appears complete, but certainly needs cleaning and internal checking with a complete rebuild probably required. It turns over qjuite easily, but still requires slightly more effort than ideal. It's quite dirty and cob-webby. Also, as can be seen in the photos, one of the four mounting feet needs some welding/fabrication. Since I do not own a Chalmers, I'd like this to go to a Chalmers parts accumulator (aka "hoarder") or better yet, an owner of a Model 17, 18 or 19. Hopefully it can be of immediate use or kept as a back-up unit. Offered at USD$250, plus shipping or better yet, stop by my vending space at Hershey (I'll only bring it if somebody wants it right away) at RED FIELD RWG 30-31, nr. Lamp Post #21. Steve Hammatt 2110 S 19th ST Mount Vernon WA 98274 USA 360-661-6060 (cell & text) http://www.leatherplates.com
  7. Steve Hammatt

    "Gray & Davis" generator

    For those interested, I have found the automobile that used the Gray & Davis Type G generator: 1913-1914 Chalmers, Models 17, 18 and 19. My unit appears complete, but needing rebuilding. It turns over by hand (somewhat stiffly, but needs lots of cleaning). It also needs minor welding repair to one of the four feet. Offers considered. Thanks. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA
  8. I have an early Gray & Davis Type G Generator (Dynamo) that, unfortunately, I have been unable to find the application (year and make) that used this generator. Anybody have an idea as to which marque used this generator? The only spec's I've found so far show a "Type G-1" while the nameplate on the generator shows it as "Type G". The "Type G-1" spec's list 6-1/2V, 9Amperes and 1000 RPM. So, all of this begs two questions: 1. are there substantial differences between the Type G the Type G-1? 2. which brand(s) of automobile(s) specified the use of the Gray & Davis Type G generator? Super thanks everyone.......I appreciate any assistance offered. Steve
  9. Jeff Thanks for your reply. I just pulled my AQ and took a look, unfortunately not much in the way of details regarding which units were supplied by Gray & Davis to Peerless. I also pulled two more AQs and still no details. I wish someone would make a usable indes for the last 10 years (Vol 41:1 thru Vol 51:1) of Automobile Quarterlies. It appears that my problem is that I have a Gray & Davis Type G Starter and I need a G&D Type K (awaiting verification on the correct Type) for my 1914 Overland 79. I'm wonder what G&D two piece starter type (model) was used in the Peerless application?
  10. Hi I've run across a Gray-Davis electric starter Type G. I'm thinking that it may have been used on a 1914 +/- Peerless. Would this make any sense?
  11. Steve Hammatt

    (#13) What is it? Identify that car!We recently received a...

    If an Overland, it's certainly not a 1914. Immediately I noticed that the seemingly large, flat wooden firewall is too early for a '14 Overland. Also, the rear fender line at the rear portion is totally unlike my 1914 Overland 79T. I'm guess, may a 1912 Overland?
  12. Steve Hammatt

    Carbs. for Sale for your early project

    Al The background on the oil seepage on the '14 Overland (plus similar Overland years) engines probably belongs in a different section, other than the For Sale group....so maybe soon I'll gather my memories, check some facts and do a write up about my experiences. However, I did mean to mention a couple of other changes I made as backup to the changes in seat i.d. of the fuel inlet valve. I found a similar sized needle, but with a Viton tip, and exchanged it for the original all brass needle. The new needle had a groove around the blunt end, near the float "flapper". I found a tiny SS spring designed to snap onto the blunt end of the needle (it snapped into the groove mentioned earlier) and then the other end wrapped loosely around the float flapper. When the float dropped, the flapper pulled the needle open and fuel flowed. I considered this my backup method and not the primary means of fuel control. I was tired of occasionally having to back up a hill! Someday, when I pull the carb for cleaning I'll try to remember to photograph my changes. Steve
  13. Steve Hammatt

    Carbs. for Sale for your early project

    Al Hope everything is going fine with you. Regarding your Carter BB-1, I have learned (in a time-consuming manner) about BB-1 carbs and their use in gravity-fed vs. pressure-fed fuel systems. The main inlet needle valve located above the bowl is in a horizontal position and comes in two basic versions, one for gravity feed and one for pressure feed. The difference is in the needle jet opening diameter, the larger opening is designed for gravity feed while the smaller diameter opening is designed for pressure (fuel pump) feed. My memory may be slightly off, but in my case the diameters were equivalent to something like "number drill size 31 vs. number drill size 38" with the larger diameter being the smaller drill size numerical number. IIRC, there was something like a 40% cross-sectional area difference between the two drill sizes. In my case, I'd been working with a gravity fed design (1914 Overland 79T) but had a Carter BB-1 with the small cross-sectional area (number drill size 38) which worked (barely) OK when on the flat and level, but with any sort of hill, my gravity fed system ran low on fuel pressure and failed to open the horizontal needle, even if the bowl float had dropped; even on the flat and level I had to run on the upper half of the fuel tank. After chucking the needle seat in a lathe and opening the diameter to the larger size we (assisted by Gary Harris, a fellow Overland 79T owner) were able to run the tank dry. One added item; it was a Saturday afternoon, trying to get the car ready to go on a tour and we were literally minutes away from swapping out the Carter BB-1 (used because it had a built-in accelerator pump) for a factory original carb when the #31 vs. #38 information was first uncovered; I didn't have a number drill index handy when all this happened so I used a fractional drill index and bracketed (using go vs. no-go drills) to quickly determine what was the actual situation with my initial set-up. I hope this information can be of use to others. Up until then we'd been fighting this problem for many tours. BTW, the oil spot (under the tappets) shown in the attach photo is no longer a problem. There is a cure that worked for us, but that's another story. Steve
  14. Steve Hammatt

    Trying to confirm 1911 designation

    I have a customer (for my leather license plates) that has a Chalmers Model 30 that is believed to be a 1911 model. The i.d. information we have is: On the top of the transmission is cast into the plate "Model K", then stamped into the same plate, next to the K is "-M" I'm assuming that this is a K (1910) transmission but used in a M (1911) vehicle. Also, on the firewall is a brass plate with "333" stamped as the i.d. number. On the back of the engine block, stamped into a cast boss is "15426" (although difficult to read in photo provided). Is there any reason to doubt this being a 1911 model?? This all came about so that the license plate number to be selected will match the correct number range for the calendar "year of manufacturer". Thanks. Steve Hammatt www.leatherplates.com
  15. Steve Hammatt

    Covered! MccMinnville, to Medford, Oregon (I-5) around 6/15

    Hi I responded to your PM last Saturday and asked for you to call me. Haven't heard back, please call asap Steve Hammatt 360-661-6060