Fred Rawling

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About Fred Rawling

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  • Birthday 02/04/1940

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  1. Fred Rawling

    Who has had a Trans/Shifter Lock Key made?

    Closed cars in 1927 did not have an ignition key. The best solution is a new key cut from code. If you have to replace the cylinder in the plunger, you have to drill holes in the side of the plunger to find the hidden snap ring that holds the cylinder in the plunger.
  2. Fred Rawling

    28 master parts wanted

    Patrick, I have a nice intake manifold for $3.00 plus about $15.00 in shipping. Shipping varies by how far you are from Southern Calif. . The hose clamps are available from Look through his on line catalogue for the mascot radiator cap. He has repro trunk locks. Josef Kubista in the Czech Republic may be making water tubes They are really expensive but that is the only source. Bob's had them at one time but his supplier declined to make them any more and Josef has the same problem.
  3. Fred Rawling

    Buick Head Bolts

    I like the larger head bolts on the outside of the rocker cover where you can see them. I bought new bolts for inside the rocker cover where they can not be seen and used the best of the old ones where they can be seen. I have always used Permatex #2 to seal the head bolts. Like Mark, I only re-torque it after a couple of short runs. I have not had any head bolt leaks. Fred
  4. COVER PLATE THAT GOES ON THE FRONT OF THE LOWER FLYWHEEL HOUSING FITS 1926 MASTER, 1927 & 1928 120, 128, 1929 121 & 129, 1930 SER 50 & 60 LIGHT RUST NO DEEP PITS $8.00 plus $5.50 first class postage
  5. Fred Rawling

    32 Buick 90 344cid lifter assemblies

    Is what you want the the washer like piece that goes on the push rod on top of the spring?
  6. Fred Rawling

    1928 Master clutch release bearing & grease cup

    Josef, I did not read all the posts. I just skipped to the end. I have a stack of 1928 Master clutches. I was getting ready to send you a couple of 3 leg water tubes for patterns. I could send it with the water tubes. Fred
  7. Fred Rawling

    1925-1927 Buick Standard Correct Muffler & Exhaust pipe

    I have an old one for a pattern. Yours for the postage and a promise that you will become the caretaker and keep it until someone else needs it or return it. Fred Call me. 562 644-4670
  8. Fred Rawling

    1916 Buick D45 Touring

    First photo is the D 6 Cyl. parts book. The second is the E 6 Cyl parts book. They look the same to me. The E 4 cyl. has a peak in the center. I will post a photo if anyone is interested
  9. Fred Rawling

    1916 Buick D45 Touring

    The first 2 photos are D 4 cyl. The first is from a wiring diagram and the second which shows the back of the switch is from the parts book . The front is not shown. I have to send another post with the 1917 & 918 (E) 6 cyl. and the E 4 cyl I am only allowed these 2 photos on this post.
  10. Fred Rawling

    Need Help Part 2

    I finally related the screech that I heard in the engine with the timing gear spinning on the steel center. I pulled the gear and compared it with a new one and it was off by 2 teeth. If I had mentioned the screech in my first post I probably` would have had the answer sooner.
  11. Fred Rawling

    Need Help

    My springs were short because they broke and I had to bend a loop to make a new hook. I have new ones coming from Bob's. I have worked on a few vacuum tanks but I did not think about the springs until I saw Terry's note about the springs To lap the valves, file off the swedge on the pin on the pivot. You can re secure it with a drop of solder so you do not have to hammer on the pin and break the pivot. With the arm loose, unsolder the thick washers on the 2 valves. But first take note of how much of the stem is sticking up through the washers. Chuck a light weight drill to the valve that is closed when it is in the down position. Use a light weight drill with some paste made from fine polishing compound or tooth past. Let the weight of the drill hold the valve down but support the drill so its total weight is not pulling on the valve. Do not rev up the drill, just on and off, on and off so you have good control. On the other valve, you have to push it toward the tank lid. I put a very light coat of perrmatex #2 on both sides of the gaskets. I have never put anything on the screws. Finally do not user teflon tape on the threads of anything you screw into a die cast part. Teflon is a lubricant and you can not feel how tight you are tightening the part. You could crack your diecast part. Also a friend that works at a Buick dealership told me that they do not user trflon on the fuel system. They do not want any teflon particles getting into the gas system to plug anything up. While the tank is apart, take the inner tank out in the sun light to look for pin holes. I had my tank cad plated. Then I soldered the holes. Solder loves cad plating Fred
  12. Fred Rawling

    Need Help

    Thanks to everyone., It is now on to looking for a vacuum leak. Bob's has vacuum tank springs. Mine were brittle and broke so that may be a part of my problem-- the vent valve not closing tight
  13. Fred Rawling

    1925 Buick troubles

    Terry, The springs on my vacuum tank float are brittle and broker off., Now they are a bit shorter than they are supposed to be. Please let me know how to contact John Wolf to see if he has springs. Fred
  14. Fred Rawling

    Need Help

    So after a week of procrastination, I think that I have verified that my flywheel is on correctly. The 1-6 lined is lined up with the mark on the flywheel cover window. The # 1 piston is at TDC verified with a stick on the top of the piston as I rotated the crankshaft. I did notice that there is a small distance where the crankshaft moves and the piston does not move or is that my imagination??? or is there a problem somewhere??? Here is a photo of the timing marks on the cam and crank. After all the time I have spent on this I am feeling insecure and want someone to tell me that I am doing it right. -- or wrong. If it is correct, I can put it together and start looking for a vacuum leak that Hugh suggested. Fred
  15. Fred Rawling

    Need Help

    I have to buy a battery tomorrow. I killed this one. I put the flywheel on with the cylinder head off so I saw # 1 piston at the top of the stroke. I will double check by pulling #1 plug and putting the flywheel marks in line with the mark on the housing, What I am getting from the response is that when the "0" mark on the flywheel is lined up with the mark on the housing the timing marks on the cam and crank will line up. With the timing mark on the flywheel at 17 degrees, the marks on the cam and crank will not be lined up. Now the engine sits with the cam and crank marks lined up. Tomorrow I will see what is in the flywheel window. I noticed that with the timing marks on the cam and crank gears lined up,, my distributor rotor has just passed # 1 and the flywheel mark has passed the timing mark on the flywheel housing. That fits because the rotor is under #1 at 17 degrees BTDC.