Fred Rawling

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About Fred Rawling

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  • Birthday 02/04/1940

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  1. Fred Rawling

    1928 Master clutch release bearing & grease cup

    Josef, I did not read all the posts. I just skipped to the end. I have a stack of 1928 Master clutches. I was getting ready to send you a couple of 3 leg water tubes for patterns. I could send it with the water tubes. Fred fred.rawling@live.com
  2. Fred Rawling

    1925-1927 Buick Standard Correct Muffler & Exhaust pipe

    I have an old one for a pattern. Yours for the postage and a promise that you will become the caretaker and keep it until someone else needs it or return it. Fred Call me. 562 644-4670
  3. Fred Rawling

    1916 Buick D45 Touring

    First photo is the D 6 Cyl. parts book. The second is the E 6 Cyl parts book. They look the same to me. The E 4 cyl. has a peak in the center. I will post a photo if anyone is interested
  4. Fred Rawling

    1916 Buick D45 Touring

    The first 2 photos are D 4 cyl. The first is from a wiring diagram and the second which shows the back of the switch is from the parts book . The front is not shown. I have to send another post with the 1917 & 918 (E) 6 cyl. and the E 4 cyl I am only allowed these 2 photos on this post.
  5. Fred Rawling

    Need Help Part 2

    I finally related the screech that I heard in the engine with the timing gear spinning on the steel center. I pulled the gear and compared it with a new one and it was off by 2 teeth. If I had mentioned the screech in my first post I probably` would have had the answer sooner.
  6. Fred Rawling

    Need Help

    My springs were short because they broke and I had to bend a loop to make a new hook. I have new ones coming from Bob's. I have worked on a few vacuum tanks but I did not think about the springs until I saw Terry's note about the springs To lap the valves, file off the swedge on the pin on the pivot. You can re secure it with a drop of solder so you do not have to hammer on the pin and break the pivot. With the arm loose, unsolder the thick washers on the 2 valves. But first take note of how much of the stem is sticking up through the washers. Chuck a light weight drill to the valve that is closed when it is in the down position. Use a light weight drill with some paste made from fine polishing compound or tooth past. Let the weight of the drill hold the valve down but support the drill so its total weight is not pulling on the valve. Do not rev up the drill, just on and off, on and off so you have good control. On the other valve, you have to push it toward the tank lid. I put a very light coat of perrmatex #2 on both sides of the gaskets. I have never put anything on the screws. Finally do not user teflon tape on the threads of anything you screw into a die cast part. Teflon is a lubricant and you can not feel how tight you are tightening the part. You could crack your diecast part. Also a friend that works at a Buick dealership told me that they do not user trflon on the fuel system. They do not want any teflon particles getting into the gas system to plug anything up. While the tank is apart, take the inner tank out in the sun light to look for pin holes. I had my tank cad plated. Then I soldered the holes. Solder loves cad plating Fred
  7. Fred Rawling

    Need Help

    Thanks to everyone., It is now on to looking for a vacuum leak. Bob's has vacuum tank springs. Mine were brittle and broke so that may be a part of my problem-- the vent valve not closing tight
  8. Fred Rawling

    1925 Buick troubles

    Terry, The springs on my vacuum tank float are brittle and broker off., Now they are a bit shorter than they are supposed to be. Please let me know how to contact John Wolf to see if he has springs. Fred fred.rawling@live.com
  9. Fred Rawling

    Need Help

    So after a week of procrastination, I think that I have verified that my flywheel is on correctly. The 1-6 lined is lined up with the mark on the flywheel cover window. The # 1 piston is at TDC verified with a stick on the top of the piston as I rotated the crankshaft. I did notice that there is a small distance where the crankshaft moves and the piston does not move or is that my imagination??? or is there a problem somewhere??? Here is a photo of the timing marks on the cam and crank. After all the time I have spent on this I am feeling insecure and want someone to tell me that I am doing it right. -- or wrong. If it is correct, I can put it together and start looking for a vacuum leak that Hugh suggested. Fred
  10. Fred Rawling

    Need Help

    I have to buy a battery tomorrow. I killed this one. I put the flywheel on with the cylinder head off so I saw # 1 piston at the top of the stroke. I will double check by pulling #1 plug and putting the flywheel marks in line with the mark on the housing, What I am getting from the response is that when the "0" mark on the flywheel is lined up with the mark on the housing the timing marks on the cam and crank will line up. With the timing mark on the flywheel at 17 degrees, the marks on the cam and crank will not be lined up. Now the engine sits with the cam and crank marks lined up. Tomorrow I will see what is in the flywheel window. I noticed that with the timing marks on the cam and crank gears lined up,, my distributor rotor has just passed # 1 and the flywheel mark has passed the timing mark on the flywheel housing. That fits because the rotor is under #1 at 17 degrees BTDC.
  11. Fred Rawling

    Need Help

    The vacuum gauge reads 11 inches steady. The chart says that I have a valve timing problem. After setting valve lash static and then in motion, adjusting the carb, new points, condenser and coil with no change, I pulled the timing case cover and found that when the mark on the cam gear and on the crank gear are pointing to each other, the timing mark on the flywheel is not in the window of the flywheel cover. It looks like the flywheel is on wrong. Opinions please. This is a 1928 Buick. When I first put it together, I had 16 inches of mercury steady and drove it on the freeway at 45 mph until I had the problem. What would maker it change? Fred
  12. Fred Rawling

    1935 buick S.40 HELP!!!

    The radiator shop can clean the tubes also. With the top and bottom tanks off, they run a rod down the tubes. Checking the thermostat first before pulling the radiator is a good idea., After not driving my 1935 90 ser. for a year it ran hot. Before I parked it there was no problem,. The corner radiator shop told me that it needed a new core. I took it to another honest shop. They cleaned the tanks and it ran fine. For major surgery get a second opinion.
  13. Fred Rawling

    1922-27 Buick Standard Front wheel bearing & lip seal

    Hugh, I have the felt seals for $12.50 a pair. Like Leif says, they work fine. fred.rawlng@live.com
  14. Fred Rawling

    1935 buick S.40 HELP!!!

    Some times flushing the radiator us not enough. You may have to take it off and have is cleaned out by a radiator shop.
  15. Fred Rawling

    throttle control

    I have all the rods to go on a 1928 for both the master and standard. Call or email me if you still need them. fred.rawling@live.com or 562 644-4670