Fred Rawling

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About Fred Rawling

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  • Birthday 02/04/1940
  1. 1928 Buick Master removal of starting crankshaft cap

    Hugh has the right idea, lots of penetrating oil. Try the latest one you make yourself 50/50 trans fluid and acetone.
  2. Parts for pre-1920 Buicks

    Mark, Please post Dean's e-mail or contact info for Morgan. I would do it but I do not have it.
  3. Oil leak from Differential of 1926 Std Tourer

    My guess is that on the 150 miles, you warmed up the grease in the housing and it leaked out. I would grease it again and clean up the mess. Then go for a drive and see what happens. I would take the saddle apart and clean it out first because it looks like the old grease has worn out and turned to oil. Amen to not overfilling the differential. I like my finger to go down about a half inch below the filler before feeling the oil. I think that the side gears on my 1928 had some bronze shims or bushings on the side gears. If you have bronze in the differential be sure NOT to use hypoid gear oil. It will make worm holes in your bronze.
  4. valve push rod cover stud removal

    I have never had a problem removing them and if you break one I will send you a replacement. No body ever wants to buy them so I assume that they do not break often.

    Terry, If you can find a plating shop near by, ask them what they would use. Fred
  6. 1928 master windshield glass pattern

    I have a 28 model 51 that was converted to a pick up. The windshield that is in it is a replacement. I can copy the curve and send you a paper pattern if you still need it. or 562 644-4670 is the best way to be sure I see your message.

    Try or Tony Bult It think that I saw a repro on one of their tables at the BCA National.
  8. 1929 real axle seal/bush

    Another thought. The manual tells you to tighten the axle nut very tight. If it is loose, you could break an axle. The star washers that lock the nut are hard to find and hard to make. Be sure you put one on.
  9. 1929 real axle seal/bush

    I think you need a new replacement seal from You can test to make sure that it is the seal by cutting a piece of cardboard like a cereal box to fit around the outside of your old felt seal and try it out. The cardboard around the outside will shrink the inside hole and should stop the leak. Your differential cover should be installed with the filler on the lower side and when you put the tip of your finger in the hole, you should feel the oil about a forth to a half inch below the hole. That will prove if it is overfilled or not. cut a new paper gasket for the shedder.
  10. 1930 Buick - cleaning a fuel pump

    In the past, I bought rebuild kits from Antique Parts Cellar
  11. New Guy This link is to a yahoo group, 1930 Buicks. Don, I hope to have mine looking that good. The frame is primed, the front axle finished. Then I got sidetracked adding another 400 sq ft. to the 2nd floor of my garage. I needed a place to sort my parts out. Fred
  12. 1929 Artillery Wheel

    I use radial truck tires on my 1935 Buick. It rides nicer and does not follow the ruts in the road as bias ply tires do.
  13. head lights- running lights

    They are not for any Buicks from 1922 to 1930. Fred
  14. 1924 Buick top laches

    The rod bearings should be 0.002 clearance. I believe that the mains should be the same. Quot from the 1925 master shop manual: The end thrust of the crankshaft is taken by the rear center main bearing. This bearing should have a total end clearance of not less than 0.007 inches and not more than .020 inches. Other main bearings should have from 1/64 in. to 1/32 in clearance at each end. Run out of the crank shaft should not be greater than .002 inch. The 1927 shop manual gives the same information and specifies that it is for all series cars so you should be the same on your 1926 engine. I also found my written note that the clearance on the main bearings is .002. If anyone knows that I am wrong, please jump in and correct me. Fred