Straycat

Does anyone know have many versions of the iron Stage-2 heads exist. I'm just guessing at the following and don't know if they all really exist: Prototype (with cleanout bosses) Production (round port exhaust) Production (modified D port exhaust)???? Prototype (tunnel ram intake)????

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...It is possible that the motors on the stands are 1967 - 69 430s. The valve covers are difficult to see as the photo was really small...</div></div> KB had their own company logo/sticker that fit the 67-69 valve covers, so they used those valve covers on the 455s too. Looked a lot cooler than the newer style 70-76 valve covers.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Stock 455 exhaust manifolds can be ported and will accept a 2 1/2 head pipe. Each manifold has a single outlet, so no cross over concerns. I've seen Greg Gessler drop a tennis ball into a ported Buick manifold...</div></div> Yep Greg knows what he's doing... He just won the F.A.S.T. title for the fourth year in a row. Ran an 11.17 on polyglass tires with a stock looking Buick 455! http://www.gesslerheadporting.com/

Adam, How's the ground clearance with the full length headers on these large cars? I've always worried about speed bumps, rolled curbs, etc..

The Performer will add additional performance, it just depends on your level of performance. If you go to mild, then if may not be worth the additional cost of the manifold. It is much lighter than stock, and that alone might be worth it if you have a bad back. You can use small valve build-up link below as a guide for your build-up. It uses a Q-jet, port matched Edelbrock Performer, headers, etc. It shows the performance potential of the small valve heads with the right combination of parts. 460+ HP, and 540+ Torque Even if you lost 35-40 HP without the headers, you'll still be above the 400 HP mark that you're looking for. http://www.trishieldperf.com/Level%201%20engine%20specs.htm

400 HP should not be a problem, but what is your budget? 90,000 miles means you can't just slap in new pistons. Now, you're talking machine shop time. There are some 455 Stage-1's being sold for about $5,600.00. <span style="font-weight: bold">Edit: just checked, it's $5240, but they don't mention anything about a core exchange.</span> I think the company's name is AMP?? out of Kentuky. These are their version of the Stage-1, carb to pan, ready to run. I'd use that as a starting point for your budget. 1. Edelbrock Performer (port matched to the heads) is a good intake and will accept your Q-jet, but won't accept the stock divorced choke thermostat. Not that big a deal. You'll have to bend the fuel line a bit as the Performer is slightly higher than stock. However, with a mild build-up you may see no HP gain. 2. Stage-1 engines had larger valves, and some Centurions did too. You have to pull your head to know for sure. Just sticking larger valves in a small port head won't do much for performance. <span style="font-weight: bold">Edit:</span> I wouldn't get too hung up on Stage-1 valves as you can get 400 HP out of a set of ported small valve heads too. Just depends on the combination of parts. Pertonix is not 100% reliable from what I've heard. There are other conversions available that may be better. Stock fuel pump is marginal for 400+ HP engine. The Stage-1 is a better choice, but remember, the Stage-1 engine was only rated a true 376 HP. Your number one concern on these engines is the condition of the timing cover and oil pump assembly. I assume from you comments above that's what you're planning to address. Not sure about this but obviously some 455's came from the factory with 2 barrel carbs, if yours did....keep the intake/carb for a future restoration. You just never know. One last note. If the ragtop is already down, just make sure it can come back up and is watertight. If not...

Nope, you're not suppose to have oil coming out of the ends of the rocker shaft on the 70 and up 455's. The ends are open on the 70 and up 455's. They should look like the middle assembly if they are factory stock. Is this what you have? (NOTE: the middle assembly should have those nylon retaining buttons that are shown in the top assembly.)

????? Most of the Big Buicks (Electras, Rivieras, etc.) came with a 12 bolt differential. The problem was it is an oddball 9 3/8" 12 bolt that no ones seems to support when it come to aftermarket ring and pinions.

Post deleted by BUICK RACER

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>...those cars make to much torque and therefore not good race engines...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Ask those same guys if they know how much torque a Nitro powered Top Fuel engine makes. <P>Don't personally know the answer to that one, but I bet it's just a tad more than the Buick 455 Stage-1. <p>[ 06-14-2002: Message edited by: Straycat ]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>use stainless to not worry about it rusting out.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Stainless will last longer, but will eventually rust out along the joints if you constantly let the condensation/acids sit within the system.<P>How long stainless steel last depends on the grade and thickness of the steel. Regardless, it won't last forever.<P>It's still best, if possible, to make sure your exhaust system runs hot enough to minimize the build-up of condensation. Those real short trips around town are what really kills an exhaust system.<P>A stainless steel exhaust system also has a different ring (sound) to it, that some people don't like. Some don't really care. But, it's kind'a expensive to find that out after you've installed it. <P>If you go the stainless steel route, make sure the kit includes stainless steel hangers, fasteners, etc..<p>[ 05-30-2002: Message edited by: Straycat ]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Headers will make a noticeable difference and add 20-30 horsepower. The downside is that you may have to creep over speed bumps and slow down at intersections to avoid scraping your headers. So, in a daily driver sense, they slow you down.<BR>I won't be putting headers on my Riviera due to that hassle.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P><BR>TA's shorty headers might be what you are looking for. They are not cheap, but a good compromise where ground clearance is a consideration.<P>Scroll down on the following page:<P> <A HREF="http://www.taperformance.com/headers.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.taperformance.com/headers.htm</A><P>$379.00 <P>1 7/8" x 3" collector, <B>Raw Finish</B><p>[ 05-30-2002: Message edited by: Straycat ]

A dual exhaust system does run cooler, but the downside to this is it might rust out faster because of increased possibility of condensation remaining within the exhaust system. Usually happens on short trips around town.<P>The 1970 Cadillac 500 also had a single exhaust system and ran just fine. Something to think about. It really depends on the RPM you plan on running. For cruising around town, I’d stick to the single exhaust.<P>Some single exhaust systems put out more bottom end torque than their dual exhaust counterparts.<p>[ 05-18-2002: Message edited by: Straycat ]

<B>I noticed that there appears to be a screw to adjust the needle of the dwell/tach meter. Is there an easy way to check the calibration?</B><P>My old Sears engine analyzer just says to rotate the screw until the needle lines up with the zero line. <P>Calibration....what's that?