ply33

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About ply33

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    http://www.ply33.com/

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    Spanish Village by the Sea
  1. Sure looks like it to me too. A number of variations over the years and there used to be a number of brands available. You can see my website for a list of cross reference numbers. The last major manufacturer for them was WIX but they stopped making them about 15 years ago. The only place I know of to buy them new is through Roberts Motor Parts. There were some conversion kits that fit the original brackets and allow you to put in a (still available) filter cartridge. Mopar specific would be Chrysler part 1123152 but there were more generic ones make by companies like FRAM. And there is a person who advertises in the Plymouth Owners Club's magazine for a new manufacture housing that looks like the sealed canister but that opens up and hides a modern filter inside.
  2. They already did Romeo and Juliet as teenage gang members back in 1961.
  3. It is my understanding that adding ethanol to gasoline raises the vapor pressure, that is it makes it more likely to vaporize and thus more likely to cause delivery issues in a low pressure carburetor type fuel system. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=effect+of+ethanol+on+gasoline+vapor+pressure&bext=msl&atb=v45-6&ia=web
  4. That is the same make/model unit I borrowed to balance my wheels last time. Unfortunately the tool's owner moved one direction and I another so borrowing it is no longer feasible and I'll have to do something different for my next set of tires. I am looking forward to hearing how many ounces each of your wheels need to get properly balanced.
  5. Where did you get "and add a fuel additive" out of the above discussion? FWIW, your 1938 Dodge came from the factory with hardened exhaust valve seats and special alloy exhaust valves so no lead is needed. The issues with modern fuel that I am aware of is two fold: First, some modern additives are not kind to the flexible materials in older fuel systems. Adding more additives to the fuel won't fix that. Since this has been true for a couple of decades it is likely your fuel system has been rebuilt with rubber components compatible with modern fuel. If not, then do replace your flex hose and the fuel pump diaphragm, etc. with ones compatible with modern gas. Second, virtually all cars on the road nowadays have fuel injection and are insensitive to how volatile the fuel is (pump in the tank delivering relatively high pressure to the injectors). So the refiners don't worry much about volatility and make decisions on blending, additives, etc. on other criteria. Unfortunately a carbureted engine with a low (less than 5 psi) pressure fuel system, especially with the pump located near the exhaust manifold, can have heat related fuel delivery issues. I've heard of people adding kerosene or diesel to the gasoline to mitigate this, but in general a "fuel additive" will not address the issue. So what type of fuel additive are you considering and why do you think your car needs it?
  6. I think the link should be https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/103-year-old-delage-type-s-grand-prix-car-brought-back-life-3d-scanning-printing-109314/ Very interesting article.
  7. Interesting that Universal has the tubes. . . Last two times I bought tires for mine I couldn't find ones for 17" with radial valve stems. I ended up using motorcycle tires. When this set of tires wear out, I'll be contacting Universal. Thanks for the information! Oh, and your wheels look great! p.s. Did they balance the wheels and tires? Or at least check the balance even if they did not add weights. One of the issues I've had with other brand tires in that size is they seem to take a lot of wheel weights to get balanced (I've checked the wheels without tires and they are true radially and laterally and are balanced so I'm pretty sure the imbalance is in the tires not the rims).
  8. Maybe if the dash unit is okay: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
  9. Looks like around the timing case cover, behind the front A-frame support for the front engine mount. To get to it I'll have to raise the engine up enough to have the crank clear the front cross member and also remove the radiator (and thus hood, etc.). Given the clearance between the impulse damper and the frame cross member, I might also have to allow the transmission to drop some, most likely just removing at least the rear transmission support.
  10. That was my decision too. . . Unfortunately once started I found a few leaks that basically will require the engine to be pulled which is more work than I want to put into it. So there is a drip pan under the car and I need to check the oil fairly often and the undercarriage needs cleaning more often than I'd like. Were I to do it again, I'd test run the engine prior to getting so much stuff around it that it is a pain to pull out to fix leaks.
  11. Your dailies probably don't have enough electronics to be self aware so you probably don't have to worry about their feelings. On the other hand a new car. . .
  12. Looks very similar to the seal that goes around the hand brake lever on my '33 Plymouth. Something like http://www.steelerubber.com/handbrake-floorplate-40-0110-24
  13. Looks like the same shape holder as for my '33 Plymouth (though I thought mine should be painted black rather than being plated). I've also considered casting my own from something like Flexane. Any chance we can team up on that?
  14. Typical for Plymouth in that era was wood grain for dash, window surrounds, etc. on closed cars and body color for convertibles. Can't say for sure that was also true for the 1938 models but it seems likely to me.
  15. It is my understanding that it was spelled "tire" in England until the early 1900s, so "tire" it should be. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire#Etymology_and_spelling