ply33

Members
  • Content count

    3,273
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

46 Excellent

About ply33

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.ply33.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    : Spanish Village by the Sea
  1. Interesting that Universal has the tubes. . . Last two times I bought tires for mine I couldn't find ones for 17" with radial valve stems. I ended up using motorcycle tires. When this set of tires wear out, I'll be contacting Universal. Thanks for the information! Oh, and your wheels look great! p.s. Did they balance the wheels and tires? Or at least check the balance even if they did not add weights. One of the issues I've had with other brand tires in that size is they seem to take a lot of wheel weights to get balanced (I've checked the wheels without tires and they are true radially and laterally and are balanced so I'm pretty sure the imbalance is in the tires not the rims).
  2. Maybe if the dash unit is okay: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
  3. Looks like around the timing case cover, behind the front A-frame support for the front engine mount. To get to it I'll have to raise the engine up enough to have the crank clear the front cross member and also remove the radiator (and thus hood, etc.). Given the clearance between the impulse damper and the frame cross member, I might also have to allow the transmission to drop some, most likely just removing at least the rear transmission support.
  4. That was my decision too. . . Unfortunately once started I found a few leaks that basically will require the engine to be pulled which is more work than I want to put into it. So there is a drip pan under the car and I need to check the oil fairly often and the undercarriage needs cleaning more often than I'd like. Were I to do it again, I'd test run the engine prior to getting so much stuff around it that it is a pain to pull out to fix leaks.
  5. Your dailies probably don't have enough electronics to be self aware so you probably don't have to worry about their feelings. On the other hand a new car. . .
  6. Looks very similar to the seal that goes around the hand brake lever on my '33 Plymouth. Something like http://www.steelerubber.com/handbrake-floorplate-40-0110-24
  7. Looks like the same shape holder as for my '33 Plymouth (though I thought mine should be painted black rather than being plated). I've also considered casting my own from something like Flexane. Any chance we can team up on that?
  8. Typical for Plymouth in that era was wood grain for dash, window surrounds, etc. on closed cars and body color for convertibles. Can't say for sure that was also true for the 1938 models but it seems likely to me.
  9. It is my understanding that it was spelled "tire" in England until the early 1900s, so "tire" it should be. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire#Etymology_and_spelling
  10. Those side plates are the valve covers.
  11. All Chrysler built 6 cylinder engines in that era came from the factory with hardened exhaust valve seat inserts and special alloy exhaust valves. You can put a lead additive into your fuel but the only real effect that will be to make your wallet lighter. Any modern off-the-shelf multi-viscosity oil will have more ZDDP in it than was available when your car left the factory. And, being post war, it should have been fed multi-viscosity oil since new unless some cheap SOB previous owner thought they could get by with single weight. You may wish to pull the valve covers and drop the pan to inspect for deposits and clean them out if found. But other than that, I'd use a on sale multi-viscosity oil from my local auto supply in the range that keeps your oil pressure at the factory recommended level. If new or recently rebuilt that would probably be a 10w-30 but with a worn engine it could likely be something heavier.
  12. Pages 1-10 and 1-11 in the 1928-33 Plymouth Master Parts List has images of some products. But that was before they started using "Motor Parts" or "MoPar" and those show either the specific make (e.g. "DeSoto Saxon Glaze") or the CPDP logo. That master parts book is being reproduced so I assume they have a copy of it.
  13. I don't see that number in my books either. The starting crank handle for the 30-U and PA is 313929 while the hand crank for a PB is 526658. Most of the parts introduced for '33 are in the 600xxx to 604xxx range. My guess is that crank is for a '32 (+/- a year) Chrysler product other than Plymouth.
  14. Looks more like a convertible sedan or phaeton rather than a convertible coupe to me. But the windshield seems atypical of an open car and is slanted more than I'd expect for a car of that era. Could the cowl be from one car and the body from another? Hood is definitely not Plymouth.
  15. Do these actually work? Seems like if they did then they would be used by all auto manufacturers. . .