ply33

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About ply33

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  1. Following up on nvonada's comments, which I agree with, it was only relatively recently that I learned that the more pressure there is in the cylinder the higher the voltage needed for the spark to actually spark. I learned this on a tour when there was a car that acted like it had a fuel system problem and just couldn't climb a hill or get up to speed: The problem turned out to be a weak coil. Idled fine and ran fine at low throttle openings (relatively low amount of fuel/air being admitted into the cylinder) but would hesitate and lose power when the throttle was opened wider (more fuel/air being admitted so compression pressure was higher). So, in addition to checking the fuel system, you might want to examine the ignition system a bit more closely. . .
  2. No "thermo bypass" on '33. IIRC, they started that on '34 and even then only on the PE.
  3. Concur with blakew: That car has been restored at some time. FWIW, the carburetor and water pump are not original. And that style water pump would need a custom backing plate to work on a '33/'34 engine. I did not see a photo of the other side of the engine to tell, but from the water pump it is possible that the engine is later than the car. All that said, it does look like a very nice car.
  4. First, check to see with a trusted gauge or thermometer if the area around the sensor is actually as cool as you think. There may be restrictions or clogging in the water passages in that part of the block or head. Assuming your issue is only a gauge calibration problem and you have a "mechanical" unit, sometimes you can adjust the dash unit by carefully bending the linkage between the Bourdon tube and the needle. That is a very delicate operation, so be careful. Or better yet, send the whole unit off to an experienced instrument repair shop.
  5. 1933 PC and PD had tubular axles. 1934 PE and PF had independent front suspension. 1934 PG had a solid axle as did, I think, the 1935-38 or so. The number on the axle may be an internal forging part number different from the part number for the final machined part.
  6. Can't speak for the OP, but the technique I use to remove a welsh/core/freeze plug is to put a self-drilling, self-tapping screw part way into the plug and then use the claw on a carpenter's hammer to pull the plug out. Looking at the photo, I assume the OP is/was doing it the same way I do it.
  7. There are also an amazing number of parts I can get over the counter at my local auto supply for my '33 Plymouth. My experience at my local store is similar to Las Vegas Dave's. I generally call the store in the morning with the list of parts I want and by afternoon they've take delivery from the local warehouse and I can pick them up. But, as Las Vegas Dave notes, you need to know a modern part number. I've built up a pretty big cross reference over the decades and when the web came along started putting it up on my "vanity website". In recent years I converted it to an online SQL database and I've also opened up the coverage to most pre-WW2 Plymouths. I've nothing to sell but putting out cross reference information makes some people think I am a vendor. I do appreciate the occasional email I get from someone who was able to find a part for their car based on my website. Recently I was contacted by someone participating in the AACA tour in Sonora, California who developed ignition problems and was able to use my website's database to inform the local mechanic they found about the modern cross reference numbers for their car.
  8. Out of curiosity, I decided to check my parts database to see if I had a cross reference for that cap. I do, and it matches your recollection. Your memory must be a lot better than mine as I can't even remember the cross reference for my own car. NapaOnline claims $29.99 for the RR106 with delivery to a near by store so I guess price depends on where you live.
  9. The FedCo plate was the official serial number for the car as tracked by Chrysler and is the closest match to a VIN you will find on your car. For what it is worth, FedCo number CP172P is for a 1927-28 Chrysler model 72 built in Detroit. If I've done the look up correctly, it was the 11721st of 48387 built in the sequence number range. There may be another number stamped some place on the frame but it may not be the serial/FedCo number. On my '33 Plymouth the engine number is stamped on the outside of the frame on the drivers side between the running board supports. To the best of my knowledge the serial number is not stamped anywhere on my car except for the serial number plate and given Chrysler's unified approach to building things it would surprise me if they handled tracking Plymouth vehicles much differently than Chrysler vehicles. There were changes between when your car was built and mine (they stopped using FedCo numbers around 1930) so I could be totally mistaken but I would not be surprised if the only serial number location was the FedCo plate.
  10. Back in the 1970s when I was using my '33 Plymouth as a daily driver I kept having fuse failures. On this car there is only one fuse, mounted on the back of the ammeter, that protects everything except the ignition circuit (which is unprotected). The fuse failures were confusing to me: Generally, but not always it would happen at night. And the fuse element was always intact, that is it had not blown as you would expect melting the metal in the center of the fuse. The failed fuses looked fine but would show bad on a ohm meter. I took to occasionally pulling the fuse while driving, looking at it, and putting it back. Strangely, that seemed to make them last longer. Finally, one time when checking the fuse I noticed it was hot. Checking further, the fuse holder clips were riveted to metal conductors behind the ammeter and the rivets had corroded. Any larger current load (like having the lights on) would heat up the fuse holder. Since the fuse was mounted vertically, the heat would melt the solder in the end caps and some of the solder in the top cap would drop to the bottom of the fuse. In pulling the fuse out to check it I had apparently been rotating the fuse mitigating the solder transport. Taking the dash assembly out, cleaning the rivet and soldering it took care of the problem and I haven't had that issue recur even though the car is now twice as old as was then.
  11. You can do a web search with something like "lumens per watt incandescent quartz halogen led" and find a number of sources. They vary a little based on application, but you will usually find a table with various wattages and lumens for different technologies. Classic And Vintage Bulbs in Australia (the people I got my 6v quartz-halogen bulbs from) called the bulb I needed a "ba15d" and I see LED versions with that nomenclature on the site you linked. Very tempting to order a set from England and see how they work. I look forward to the experiences of anyone on this forum that has done that.
  12. For the same wattage quartz-halogen typically produce about 40% more light than the traditional incandescent bulbs. So if you keep the wattage the same you get more light. Or if you go for the same amount of light you will use a lower wattage bulb. HID and, I think, LED lamps typically produce about 4 times the light for the same wattage. It is my understanding that a modern LED headlight actually consumes less power than the original incandescent bulb my old car came with. So if/when plug in compatible LED bulbs becomes available I will seriously consider using them. Sorry to say I have not met the Yazejians.
  13. On my '33 and I am pretty sure also on the '34, the headliner is attached to the wood frame insert, so yes there is an issue. You might be able to remove the top side trim pieces of the interior, then detach the headliner sides and then pull the headliner out with the insert. But I am pretty sure that if I were doing it lots of damage would be done regardless of the care I took and I'd be looking at replacing the headliner. Also there is the dome light wiring. Getting the wires in and out with the headliner in place could be tough and you will need to do that to pull the insert out. Basically it is a big job to pull the insert. I don't know what the issue is with the original poster's roof but maybe finding a modern equivalent to the old top coating material could make it serviceable enough to avoid the need to replace the headliner.
  14. You might want to see if James Peterson is still making electronic voltage regulators that fit inside the older Delco-Remy generator brush cover bands. Makes all the difference if you driving is mixed (mostly daytime tours with occasional long night drives home). I have a write up about what I did with my generator and another with what I did with my headlights. I've checked a couple of times for 6v LED replacement light sources for the old headlights but haven't yet seen one yet. I think you are right about their performance: The power/current draw would be low enough for the stock electrical component yet the light output would be up to modern standards. I keep hoping someone will figure out how to make them but the last I checked the issue was making the geometry work as the difference between a filament and an LED is significant if you are trying to illuminate a parabolic reflector.