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About ply33

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    Spanish Village by the Sea
  1. 31-32 Plymouth temp gage

    When I am feeling passive-agressive, I post the link for "let me google that for you". My original is at but if you search Google for "temperature gauge repair" you will see that many sites have copied it verbatim, usually with no credit for where they found it.
  2. The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Your workmanship is so much better than mine. I wish you were the person assembled my car instead of me.
  3. How to polish reflectors?

    Might try an artist's supply. I think some people still mix their own colors and I believe lampblack is one of the pigments they use.
  4. Ujoint repair

    Get a service manual. It is possible to put the rubber boots on without removing the pins or the trunnion housings. You grease them up good to make them slippery then slide them over the pins then through the housing. That said, my experience has been that the rubber boots available now are old stock and ready to fail immediately (assuming you don't tear them during installation). They also made a couple of types of leather boots and if you can find one with a inner cone for retaining grease I think that is a far more durable part than the rubber boots.
  5. How to polish reflectors?

    Apparently they used alcohol and lamp black in the old days. I have a quote from an old magazine about it on my headlight page.
  6. That serial number is for a 1936 Plymouth P2 built in Detroit. If you have any other pre-1968 Chrysler Corporation produced cars you want to look up the serial/VIN numbers for you can use my web site.
  7. Mechanical fuel pumps and ethanol

    Pump is from about 1997? If it was new then as opposed to having been on the shelf a while and simply sold then, there is a reasonable chance it will stand up to modern gasoline. With a spare in the trunk, I'd take my chances with the original one too.
  8. Got a NAPA part number for that? I'd like to add it to my database. Thanks!
  9. How old was your car when you bought it?

    Sound similar to me: My 1933 Plymouth DeLuxe two door sedan was 40 years old when I bought it in 1973, I was in college at the time with another year to go and I've now owned it for 44 years.
  10. Missing Serial number on early car

    My serial number lists show FedCo numbers starting in 1925. Phased out in the 1929-31 period, seems a little different time for each make produced by Chrysler. I haven't found any references for 1924 Chrysler serial numbers.
  11. Did Studebaker go to mechanical fuel pumps in '29? On Chrysler products the transition was 1930 (at least for the ones I am familiar with). If it does have a mechanical pump and you can't get a new bolt on replacement, Antique Auto Parts Cellar (a.k.a. Then And Now Automotive) has rebuild kits for many pumps.
  12. I am not aware of a 6v car that had a ballast resistor, either external or built in to the coil. That came in with the transition to 12v in the 1950s. There were 12v Dodge vehicles really early on, not sure what they had on ignition. But my vague recollection is that Studebaker was 6v as was most common in that era.
  13. I Installed Seatbelts In My Desoto

    Seat belts were available from the factory on the '63 Plymouth but as my parents wanted three belts on the front bench seat as well as rear seat and they wanted them all to match, so our '63 was ordered without belts and then Dad installed six sets purchased from an auto supply store. If it was possible to order a car without belts then I am sure they weren't mandatory. Anyway, parents installed belts on the '61 in 1961 and enforced wearing them on us kids at that time and I've never really felt safe in a car without wearing belts since then. I am pretty sure that the belts installed on my '33 will not be as effective as I might like (I'll likely be either impaled on the steering column or crushed chest if the wheel doesn't fail) and my passenger will have massive head damage from the steel dash) but it could keep us from being thrown out of the car car which would be an improvement I guess.
  14. Definitely! Spark plug gaps too wide will cause miss or lack of power under heavy loads. Same thing with a weak coil for the same reason: You pack more fuel/air mixture into the cylinder at wider throttle openings so the compression pressure is higher. And the higher the pressure in the cylinder the higher the voltage must be to initiate the spark. Plug gaps that are too wide for the amount of voltage available won't spark. A weak coil can cause that when you have the proper spark gap, and an improper spark gap can cause that with any coil.
  15. Most likely issue is with the "Domain Name System" (DNS) provided by your ISP. It will affect various sites differently depending on how things are cached in your computer, on your router and at your ISP.