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About ply33

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    Spanish Village by the Sea
  1. That thought passed my mind last month when we got rid of my wife's pristine first generation 2001 Prius, purchased in November of 2000. Just don't need as many cars in the household nowadays. Out of curiosity, would your improved driving skills include being more aggressive and accident prone? I can't say about now, but when our 2004 Prius, acquired in 2003, was a couple years old I got a reduction in my insurance. Apparently at that time the demographic drawn to the Prius was safer than average and the insurance payout rates were such that (at least my) company lowered the premiums. My personal driving style hadn't changed from when I had other vehicles, so it had nothing to do with me personally. Both the 2001 Prius and 2004 Prius have now been replaced with a 2017 Prius Prime. This new one has a d*mn*d display that tries to guide you to being a more economical driver, complete with a eco score displayed when you turn off the car. I guess if I paid that much attention, I'd join those drivers you think should "improve". But I continue to drive the way I've driven since I learned back in the '63 family car. By the way, all of our around town driving is pure electric now so gasoline might sit in the tank for a long period of time. I see nothing in the car's manual nor have I found anything online officially from Toyota about fuel becoming stale in the tank. I read that the Chevy Volt has some logic that runs the engine periodically to use up old gas, but nothing about other plug-in hybrids doing that. So is our hobby's concern about gas going bad in our collector cars a real concern? Or is it only a concern in older (vented) fuel systems but not in (at least some) newer car fuel systems?
  2. Pinging when floored

    In North America the octane listed on the pump is the numerical average of the research octane number (RON) and motor octane number (MON), in most of the rest of the world the number on the pump is the RON which is higher than the MON. Thus the same gasoline that would have a posted octane of 87 in the US will have a higher posted number elsewhere in the world. How much higher depends on the exact fuel as the difference between the RON and MON can vary quite a bit.
  3. 1934 Plymouth Tranny question

    The '33 and '34 transmissions constant mesh helical gears engaged using a sliding dog clutch for 2nd and direct. Basically the dog clutch looks like a that from a synchromesh transmission but lacks the actual synchronizing and lock out mechanism. I'd have to look for the references, but I recall that '35 was the first year for Plymouth to have synchronizers. If you up shift the at relatively slow speeds, the transmission is pretty quiet. At least if you have gear lubricant of a weight close to what the factory specified. I doubt you can find the freewheeling lubricant the book calls for, but regular gear lube seems to work okay in my '33. Downshifting quietly seems only to be possible in my car if you double clutch or if you use freewheeling. I generally have freewheeling disabled, so I've gotten pretty good at double clutching it.
  4. The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Regarding your ammeter, it looks like it has a fuse on the back and it look like one of the leads to the fuse has a riveted connection. Different shape, etc. than on my '33 Plymouth but a similar concept. One issue I had with my Plymouth was that the riveted connection had deteriorated over time and developed enough resistance that when the headlights were on the heat would melt the solder in the end cap of the fuse. End result was an oddly open fuse (look at it and it did not look blown but it had no connectivity) and all the electrics in the car (except ignition and fuel gauge) failing. Not a desirable thing on a night drive. It looks like you've nicely cleaned things up but you might want to double check the resistance between various points on that assembly. In my case I ended up soldering the rivet to the metal conductor strip to cure the resistance/heat issue. I know it would not look authentic, but it is under/behind the dash and a little solder won't be spotted by any judge there.

    I recall when Arizona issued plates annually that you could tell what part of the state a vehicle was from by the number sequence. I suspect lots of states did something like that. It made it fairly easy for small towns to figure out who to target when setting up a speed trap.
  6. Another Wiper Motor Question

    Your description of how the wiper motor goes on exactly matches that for the 1937 Plymouth P4 that I've seen. The push/pull control is the only thing protruding through the headliner. You can contact the Plymouth Owners Club's technical advisor for the 1938 models for confirmation. My 1933 PD matches this description of how the wiper mounts on your 1936 model. So I guess they made a big change on this between 1936 and 1937.
  7. Trico Vacuum Wiper Motor Parts

    Does he continue his wiper motor repair/rebuild business while in Southern California? (Winter is not a bad time to motor on out from the coast to the desert. . .)

    Back about 15 to 20 years ago when I did it, I found I could call the 800 number for the DMV and explain that I wanted to see if I could use a set of plate numbers for YOM registration. They were able to give me a yes/no answer (if no they were not going to tell me anything about the vehicle currently registered with those numbers. My notes from way back when were: "You can contact the DMV to see if a set of plates is clear. Their number is 1-800-777-0133. Dial 1 to get English, then 0 to get an agent. The 800 number agents know of the YOM law and can quickly check to see if the number is in use." I don't know if that still holds true or if the 800 number has changed, but it might be worth a try. My full write up is at
  9. Looks like it is a Atkinson Cycle engine from the late 1800s with a variable length over center link. Most modern hybrids use modified intake valve timing to try to achieve the same effect (compression and expansion ratios different from one another). The latest generation of Toyota Prius claims to achieve 40% thermo efficiency on its gasoline engine using basically an Otto cycle engine with the intake valves left open long enough to reduce the compression ratio. The issue with the classical Atkinson cycle (and the modern modified intake valve timing versions simulating it) is that raw power is low. The hybrids compensate by having a battery and motor generator system to provide the extra boost when needed. Nissan's innovation seems to be that they can increase the compression ratio on the fly to get raw power at the expense of efficiency when needed (acceleration, hill climbing) and then decrease the compression ratio for better efficiency when cruising. (In both cases keeping the expansion ratio the same.) By doing that they wouldn't need a electric motor and batteries to provide the extra boost. Of course there isn't a way to do regenerative braking with a pure gasoline engine, so if they don't pair that engine with a hybrid drive train they probably won't be able to recapture any of the vehicle's dynamic energy when braking.
  10. I had Uvira do my reflectors something like 30 years ago. Still in perfect condition. I don't drive my car in the rain much, but with the gaskets around the lenses there shouldn't be too much moisture getting to the reflectors. I've noticed no issues. Judges can't tell the difference: Through the head light lens it just looks like a good condition silvered reflector.
  11. I've got 25 watt 6 volt BA15d quartz-halogen bulbs from Classic & Vintage Bulbs in Australia in my '33 Plymouth as I write. They are a direct plug in replacement for the #1110 (21/21 cp), #1000 (32/32 cp) and/or #1188 (32/50 cp) bulbs. By my calculation the 25 watt quartz-halogen bulbs should be putting out about 600 lumens on both high and low beams. The 1188 bulb will put that out on high beam but not on low. This morning I received an email back on my query to Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions in the UK regarding their "double dipper" LED BA15d headlight bulb replacement. They say the output of that is about 600 lumens. So there appears to be at least two possibilities for a plug in replacement bulb that put out significantly more light than the original (about the same as a 50 cp bulb) but with less power draw than the 1188 (if using quartz-halogen) or any of the original bulbs (if using the LED replacements).
  12. My late father was an astronomer, not an amateur but PhD researcher. I asked him once about parabolic mirror coatings, the answer was that good quality silver was the best for reflectivity across the optical band but it was a pain to keep in good condition so they were using aluminum on the telescopes for his university. I am inclined to go with his opinion on this. I don't think the physics has changed too much in the years since I asked the question. What PFitz writes makes sense to me. Though my choice has been to use 25 watt quartz-halogen bulbs that draw about the same power as a #1000 32-32 cp bulb but deliver about the same light as a 50-50 cp incandescent bulb.
  13. Given that every Podunk town in California (and maybe the country) seems to begging for automatic license plate readers, I suspect that cars having illegal plates displayed will be stopped more often in the future. Of course, if the plates your acquaintances display have duplicate numbers with properly registered similar vintage cars they may still get away with it as it is unlikely that the enforcing officer could distinguish at a distance the difference between various makes of 20s or 30s cars so might not have their suspicions raised. I haven't noticed: Do the historical plates get a yearly expiration sticker like YOM and regular plates. I've got a bolt on tab for displaying the expiration stickers above my YOM and don't recall seeing stickers on the cars with historical plates (I am usually looking at other things than the license plates). If you are displaying a YOM without the current registration stickers you could catch the eye of law enforcement more easily. I know that the AAA office I checked back when I got my YOM tag around 1999 said they could not do it. I need to stop by AAA this week for something else, I guess I'll see if I could do YOM or historical plate registration at my local office. The people in the AAA office are much nicer than those in the DMV office so I will be very pleased to learn that they can do YOM registrations nowadays.
  14. Last I checked, which admittedly was some years ago, AAA will not help you deal with YOM or historic plates. They seem to be focused on the more typical new and used car registration process. Reading through the previous posts on this thread there is lots of accurate information but some things may not be clear. . . The historic tags in California seem to be much like those in other states: Reduced registration fees but restrictions on how much you can legally drive. YOM plates in California seem to be a whole different beast than those in other states: You pay full regular car registration and a special plate fee. Basically it is like a modern car vanity tag but a bit cheaper (this year cost me $10 for my old car and $43 for my wife's car's vanity tag). The end result is the state has no problem with you driving the car exactly like a modern daily driver. Want to drive it to work every day? Go for it. Your insurance company may have a problem with that, but the state couldn't care less. In terms of popularity? I see far more antique cars with YOM plates than ones with historic plates, so I guess for many people saving the money on yearly registration is not as big a deal as having a period correct plate. For what it is worth, when I brought my car in to California decades ago I had to take it by the DMV where an inspector verified the numbers on the car matched the paperwork. I don't recall having to pay any sales/use tax on the value of the car at that time. (Prior to that when I moved into Maryland they insisted on collecting sales tax on the value of the car.)
  15. Wattage is wattage, so a 25 watt halogen will draw the same current as a 25 watt incandescent. A quartz-halogen typically provides about 40% more light for the same power. The bulb envelope temperature is higher as the capsule is smaller but that should not be an issue for a headlight bulb as it is typically mounted in the center of a large metal heat sink (reflector). Turns out that the the old 32cp bulbs draw about 25 watts and you can get 25 watt halogens. By swapping to that bulb you will get about the same light output as the old 50 cp bulbs but keep the load on the electrical system the same as with a 32cp bulb. That, along with a better headlight reflector coating (Ulvira mentioned in other posts above) and hiding a voltage regulator inside my 3rd brush generator, is what I have done. Headlights are not up to current HID/LED standards but are much better than stock. It looks like LED bulb replacements are becoming available but the ones I've heard of that are simple plug in replacements are pretty expensive and I am not sure the light output is there yet. I am tempted to order a set to evaluate them but haven't done so yet. The ones I know about were mentioned in another topic/thread on this discussion forum and the vendor's page is at I did a full article on this topic a long while ago, you can read it at