ply33

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About ply33

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  1. Looks identical to the transmission in my '33 Plymouth PD. Been a long time, but I think I had my engine mounts revulcanized by Tom Hannaford at Antique Auto Parts Cellar (a.k.a. Then and Now Automotive).
  2. ply33

    Phoenix Az to Napa Ca Needed.

    It was my unwritten assumption that the car would be licensed, insured and registered before it was driven. I would never drive a car that wasn't registered and insured and I assume that is standard procedure for any rational person. I did suggest that a mechanical inspection be made ("brakes, etc.") with all fluids changed. Obviously if the inspection comes up with a problem it should be dealt with before the car is driven. If inspected and any observed flaws dealt with then I don't see where fraud comes in. You have a licensed, registered, insured car with recent inspection and maintenance on your hands. If it is a car, drive it. If it is a museum piece then ship it. I don't own a museum piece (even though I've scored pretty high on some Plymouth Club national show judging) and I don't own a trailer. If I can't drive it then I don't consider it a car. FWIW, I've had to use my AAA towing four times in the last 20 years. First two times, most recent in 2001, was for my 1933 Plymouth when mechanical issues developed on tours. One result of those episodes was for me to get more rigorous in my maintenance and inspection schedule. I've not had an on the road issue with that car since, including on the 2000 mile round trip jaunt from the SF Bay Area to Tucson and back a few years ago. The other two times I used AAA towing was in the last 6 months of the life of my previous "daily driver". First of those was a mechanical issue and the tow was about 5 miles to the dealer. The second was after a truck hit it and the tow was to a body shop where the other driver's insurance company declared it a total loss and paid me off. When I was young and our family didn't have a car with air conditioning we carried plenty of water. But as I grow older AC has moved from a "nice to have" when crossing the desert into the "required" category. The last trip in summer without air conditioning was in the 1980s when the AC in my '82 failed between Phoenix and the river. Pretty grim for the couple hundred miles remaining on that trip where the time & temperature signs in the Indio/Palm Desert area were showing about 115°F.
  3. ply33

    Phoenix Az to Napa Ca Needed.

    "Decent driver"? Then drive it! Drove my '33 Plymouth between Sunnyvale and Tucson a few years back which would be about the same distance if not a little more. Plus that was round trip rather than one way. But I also know exactly what the mechanical condition of my car is and you might not know that on a just purchased car. AAA Platinum allows for 200 miles of free towing. 1st tow from Phoenix to maybe Needles. Second tow from Needles to Victorville. Third tow from Victorville to Tulare. Forth tow from Tulare to Manteca. Final tow from Manteca to your house. So check/change the fluids, inspect the brakes, etc. and start driving it. If it makes it you'll feel great and have a story about how good the car was that your were able to drive it about 800 miles home. If not have up to 4 friends lined up with their AAA cards to get you home. And you'll have an even better story to tell about your adventure getting it home. OTOH, its pretty hot in the desert right now. If you drive it you might want to wait until fall.
  4. ply33

    Third brush generator regulator

    Excellent description. Yep. The third brush is an adjustable brush that picks up power for the field coil. If it is adjusted towards the brush that feeds the output from the generator your maximum current will be higher. If it is adjusted away from the output brush your maximum current will be lower. The general theory is that the more current that is output from the generator the more the magnetic field in the generator is rotated. And as it rotates the field strength were the third brush is changes. The end result is a device that tries to be a constant current source (field current decreases as the generator output current increases). In order to keep the system voltage in range, the battery is used to level things out. Basically a horrible idea for regulating an electrical system but it was cheap to make. Back in the day you had your generator adjusted based on the time of year and your driving style. The idea was to get the current about right so that your battery was just about charged when you turned the engine off. So winter with harder starting and running the lights more you had to increase the charge rate. In summer you reduced it. If you did lots of highway miles you reduced it more. If you only took occasional long trips you might turn your headlights on to keep from over charging your battery. If the connection to your battery was bad then you'd an over voltage situation which could burn out lights, etc. Needless to say your battery was almost always under charged and sulfating or over charged and boiling off electrolyte. They did a lot of "battery service" in that era. I am guessing the abuse the 3rd brush electrical system was doing to the battery was a contributing cause. Back to the original poster's query: I have not had a contact with Mr. Peterson in quite some time but the regulator he made for me has been working perfectly for a lot of years now. I hope he is still around to be able to help others.
  5. ply33

    brake pedal stays down -system bled 49 chrysler

    The pedal return spring should hold the pedal all the way up. There should be a little travel on the pedal before the push rod contacts the cylinder in the master. If there is no free play there your brakes will lock up and not release. Been there, done that.
  6. ply33

    1946 Dodge coupe parking brake band replacement help

    Might want to pick up a shop manual to see how the adjustment is done. If the lining is shot, material is available and a number of antique auto vendors sell a tool that makes riveting the lining on pretty easy.
  7. Maybe Dodge was different that Plymouth in that respect: Through at least the 1930s the front floor covering on a Plymouth was always rubber. Rear seat would have carpet though. I think that may also have been true through the 1940s too but don't know.
  8. My '33 Plymouth has the double ball setup too. And apparently they kept that general design into at least the late 1940s. No need to go to ebay to get them: They are pretty standard parts. Don't know the exact on you'd need, but if you look up "ball studs" you should find some. See: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group14#14-01-18 And: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group14#945636
  9. This isn't a T Model Ford. . . Check the Instruction Book (owners manual) for the correct gear lubricant. Probably somewhere between SAE 110 and 160 for summer driving.
  10. ply33

    Grandfather's 1936 Dodge D2

    +1 for calling a touring sedan! Back in the day they were marketed by Chrysler corporation as "touring sedans" if they had the trunk. If no trunk then they were simply "sedans". Ones with no trunk are sometimes called slope back nowadays.
  11. True that there were no published torque specifications in that era. At least I've never found any. But a slightly later vintage reference for a very similar Chrysler Corp. design states the "Rear Axle Drive Pinion Flange Nut" should be 180 ft-lbs minimum. I know that on my '33 Plymouth it was on very tight. Probably "really, really, goodntight" using your nomenclature. The axle was off the car at the time and it took some rigging to keep the flange stationary while I applied torque to the nut. I vaguely recall that I took some long 1/4" flat stock and cut and drilled it to be able to bolt onto the flange to hold the flange still. I also remember getting a new cotter pin into it wasn't easy either.
  12. ply33

    1952 MG TD

    I recall reading that there were more TDs shipped to North America than sold in the UK. Made sense to have things things mirrored for ease of production of both RHD and LHD cars. FWIW, the US was once a big automobile exporter which is obvious when you look at the firewall of my '33 Plymouth. All openings and cut outs on it are mirrored so that it could easily have been assembled for RHD operation.
  13. Max comfortable long distance cruising in my '33 with its stock engine and 4.375 rear end is between 60 and 65. Above that and not only is the engine winding up more than I'd like but the suspension, etc. is showing its limits. In California tractor-trailer rigs are officially limited to 55 MPH but usually push that by about 10 MPH. Seems like 64 MPH is the sweet spot for them, my guess is that being a good trade off between wasted time and risking a ticket. But there is usually a few trucks on the freeway going a bit slower, between 60 and 65 MPH. I often just find one and follow it. Modern car drivers, often wanting to go more like 80 MPH are tuned into seeing slow trucks and changing lanes away from them. The result is they will change lanes before getting near me, not even sure if they've seen me or not but they certainly see the truck ahead of me. Only issue then becomes people entering and exiting the freeway cutting into my safe following distance. On the whole, I would much rather take the back roads and avoid the freeway. But having large moving road blocks (semi's/tractor-trailers) at about the speed I am willing to travel does, I think, provide a little protection against the average distracted and speeding driver.
  14. ply33

    Door Panel Pattern?

    Kathy Schrack who advertises in the classified section of the Plymouth Bulletin (the Plymouth Owners Club's magazine) makes upholstery kits for a number of 1930s Plymouths. She might have the pattern for your '38 Plymouth.
  15. ply33

    " 1961 VW Beetle dim tail lights"

    Been a long a while, but: W = I * E (power (watts) is current times voltage) and E = I * R (voltage is current times resistance). This can be written as I = E/R so, substituting I in the latter equation into the first we get: W = E2/R Bulbs/lamps were designed for a specific wattage. In the 50s it was probably about 35 to 40 watts for your low beam. Lets go with 35 watts though the math is similar what ever wattage number you pick. For a 35 watts you get 1.02 Ohms on a 6v bulb and 4.1 Ohms for a 12v bulb. (That will be the resistance when hot, cold resistance will be much less.) Now put that 12v 4 Ohm bulb into a 6v circuit that ought to have a 1 Ohm lamp and you get 62/4 = 9 watts of output. So your light output has been reduced to 9 watts from the desired 35 watts: 25% of what it should be. (Ignoring that the temperature and thus the resistance of the 12v bulb is going to be lower than if running at its design voltage.)