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About ply33

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    Spanish Village by the Sea
  1. Check with your insurance agent, we once had a house that had a fire sprinkler system and I recall we got a discount on the insurance because of that.
  2. Source for wheel cylinder kits for 29' DeSoto

    That would be my impression too. At least on Plymouth, step bore cylinders came after the early to mid-1930s. My car is not equipped with step bore cylinders but I was under the impression that the larger diameter was to the rear: The front shoe on a Lockheed system is self-energizing while the rear shoe is not. I thought the reason for the step bore was to put some more force on the rear shoe to equalize braking a bit better between the two shoes. But, as I said, I don't have nor have I ever had a car with step bore cylinders so I could be entirely wrong on that.
  3. 1937 Sending Unit

    With Chrysler's centralized engineering, I am guessing there is a pretty good chance that the Dodge sending unit resistance range would be the same as for Plymouth. If so, then maybe this will help:
  4. 33 Plym headlight bracket needed

    How long have you been in Sebastopol? My wife and I did a little tour of the Russian River area in our '33 PD two door sedan a while back. Ended up meeting a fellow that had some Mopars and lived a bit west of town. I recall he had an Australian '33 Dodge phaeton. A bit longer drive for me now that we moved to the beach in Southern California. I think your are bit west of the fires I've been reading about. Hope you are okay and that this week's rain will be enough to help on the fire situation.
  5. 33 Plym headlight bracket needed

    I'd have to check part numbers, but that stand looks a little off to me too. Back in the 90's "Al Jr." in the LA area reproduced the headlight stands for dual trumpet horns. When he passed away a fellow in Jamestown (near Sonora) purchased his stock. Now that that fellow passed away his wife and a fellow going by "Country Traveler" on this forum have the stock. I don't know if they have any of those left. And if they do, I don't know what they want for them. Dual trumpet horns, 2nd windshield wiper, passenger side tail light were all options for the PD (DeLuxe) and I think most cars were delivered without them.
  6. 1948 Dodge brakes

    +10 for this You should only need to sand the shoes enough that they match the arc of the drum. I made X marks on the shoe facing and rubbed them in the drum lined with sticky backed sand paper until the X marks were uniformly gone. That should be all you need. If the first press of the brake pedal goes down further than the next, then it is very likely you still have air in the lines. You may have a pin hole opening somewhere that will make it impossible to get air out. One way is to apply pressure to the pedal for a long while and then examine all fittings, hoses, tubes, etc. for evidence of leaking. And per Frank (and my own experience) if you adjust the push rod to the master cylinder to attempt to remove free play you will likely restrict the master cylinder piston from returning past the compensating port and the result is the brakes will lock up.
  7. Straight 8 top speed

    Yes. Basics: The definition of work is force times distance (W = F * D). I am using a programmer's notation where the "*" indicates multiplication. The definition of power is work divided by time (P = W / T). Since work is force times distance and speed is distance divided by time (P = F * D / T) and speed is distance divided by time (S = D / T), you can consider power to be force times speed (P = F * S). The forces you are working against to move a vehicle forward (forgetting internal losses in the engine and transmission, just considering the vehicle size and shape, road and air) are rolling resistance and wind resistance. Call the rolling resistance Fr and the wind resistance Fw Rolling resistance (Fr) is reasonably constant but depends on vehicle weight, wheel and tire design, etc. Wind resistance (Fw) goes up as the square of the speed. I've forgotten all the theory behind why it is the square but theory was based on lots of wind tunnel and other real world observations. The general equation is Fw = Cd * A * S * S where Cd is a measured "coefficient of drag" that makes the units work and accounts for the force values found when testing. "A" is the frontal area and "S" is the speed. The vehicle frontal area and shape don't usually change with speed so consider them constants. Instead of writing "S * S", the usual notation is S2. If speed is the goal, you'll notice faster vehicles usually have a small frontal area and a fast looking shape (i.e. low coefficient of drag). If you plug vehicle forces into the power equation you get P = (Fw + Fr)*S = ((Cd x A x S2) + Fr) * S. Above a fairly low speed the wind resistance dominates the equation so you can forget about the rolling resistance and you get P = Cd * A * S2 * S = Cd * A * S3 All of this is for a steady speed. If you want to consider how fast the vehicle can accelerate then there is a whole different set of equations that can be dominated by vehicle weight.
  8. Straight 8 top speed

    I assume C Carl was referring to wind resistance as that follows that rule. Rolling resistance is more typically a direct relation to the speed (double the speed requires double the power). However, for cars the rolling resistance is pretty minor compared to the wind resistance above pretty low speeds (depends on vehicle shape and other factors but probably 30 MPH or so). So just going with the power needed to overcome wind resistance is a reasonably close approximation. Anyway, to explain the cube rule: If you double the speed, the power required goes up by eight times (2x2x2). If you want to go three times faster you will need 27 times (3x3x3) more power. For example, assume it takes 20 BHP to move a vehicle at 50 MPH on a flat road with no wind. If you want to double the speed to go 100 MPH then you need 2x2x2 (the cube) or 8 times more power. In this case that means you'd need 160 BHP. If you want to drive that same car at 150 MPH (3 times faster than 50 MPH) you will need 20 x (3x3x3) = 540 BHP. Those numbers are probably low as your rolling resistance and other losses also increase but by much smaller amounts.
  9. Dodge Club Coupe D24 - fuel gauge

    Interesting. I was under the impression that D24 was built in the 1946-48 time frame and that Chrysler products used a two wire sender from the late 1930s through 1948. At least it looks like your sender is easy to access. I have to drop the tank on my car to get to it.
  10. Dodge Club Coupe D24 - fuel gauge

    I'd start first by looking at the wires between the gauge and the tank and at the tank grounding. If memory serves, that gauge uses a two wire system and both wires have to be connected and not frayed through and shorted to the car.
  11. Just replaced the battery in my '33 Plymouth. Takes a 6v rather than the 12v for the '61 Dodge so a little apples vs oranges on the comparison. But anyway, when I checked the files I found the old battery was purchased 8 years prior. I consider that pretty good as I never did much with it, hardly ever checked the electrolyte, never put it on a charger, etc. Just get in the car and start it and drive off. FWIW, it was an Interstate brand battery.
  12. My 33 Plymouth 189ci rebuild

    FWIW, the 6 cylinder '33 Plymouth engine with modern thin shell bearing inserts, cam ground aluminum pistons, etc. is quite a bit different beast than the '32 Plymouth 4 cylinder engine with poured babbitt rod bearings. The expected pressure at cranking speeds for a '33 Plymouth with the stock 5.5:1 compression ratio is 90 psi. I am not sure what the pressure would be with the optional 6.5:1 aluminum head. Specifications along with references from whence they came are at I still think Reg should consider dropping in '34-'41 rods and crank as an easy way to boost displacement and compression ratio. Basically just doing what the factory did in '34.
  13. My 33 Plymouth 189ci rebuild

    It is my understanding that the 1933 and 34 blocks are the same. Well the late 33 blocks are the same as 34 (there were running changes on at least the oil pressure relief valve during 1933). Anyway, the main difference between '33 and '34 is they stroked the engine to 201 Same bearings, same pistons, etc. Just different crank and rods. And it is my understanding that the crank and rods were the same from 34 until they came out with the 218 in '42. So, it ought to be possible to put the crank and rods from any '34 through '41 Plymouth engine into your '33. Outward appearance would be stock but your power would go up by about 10% based on the 1934 advertising.
  14. That covers the era in the 1970s when Richard and Fran Byard were the editors. I recall helping them crank out issues on the old mimeograph machine. . . Richard passed away a long time ago and I haven't been in contact with Fran in a number of years. You might want to check with Terry Bond who frequents these forums: He and Susan were in the Chesapeake Region back then too. They might still have some contacts in the region.