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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. old-tank

    Hydraulic Brakes on a ‘35’ Buick.

    Brake fade is when inert gases are generated between the pad and the rotor/ drum from high heat that creates a squish zone. Has nothing to do with boiling fluid. Fluid will boil and cause partial or total loss of brakes: driving in the mountains with a front disc car and auto trans following some timid fool that was causing me to brake more often even with downshift. The brakes started pulling to one side (fluid had boiled in the opposite side caliper and the resultant vapor would not compress). The fluid was about 10 years old and contaminated with water over those years lowering the boiling point. Less likely to happen on drum brake cars. I now flush all of mine every 2 years: suck out the master cylinder, 4 pumps to each wheel cylinder (2 ounces).
  2. old-tank

    1955 Buick Horn Button

    The only white one I have seen was on a 56 and had "Power Steering" on it.
  3. old-tank

    The 2018 - 2500 Challenge

    366 miles this weekend; 4000 miles since June (time to change oil?) Minimal lean with 1" sway bar. Averaged <40 mph on the tour; lost power assist due to weak pump and hot fluid on all those S-curves and hairpins. My kind of "show" with motion!
  4. old-tank

    Hand Brake Lever Cable Info

    No, but Fusick Olds/Buick has both.
  5. old-tank

    L78-15 Tire Pressure

    32 psi should work. But no matter what the pressure you will grow to hate those tires: they are extremely rough riding and have the worst handling of any available tire. The original size 760-15 will ride the best (best of the lot BFG Silvertown from Coker tire; harsher ride are the Coker Classic), but have typical bias ply handling (better than the flat top L78-15). Diamond back radials are a good choice.
  6. old-tank


    Can't make it out either, but the car is a 1957 Buick convertible.
  7. Good showing! I keep telling you that is a very nice car!!
  8. old-tank

    1954 century sedan. GA to NC

    A quick search. Double their offer and you keep the car. Also tell them that your neck and back still hurt and you continuing to get that checked out (you are aren't you?) Mention a TV lawyers' name. 1963: BOOM, my 55 Special was rear ended by a 59 Plymouth doing at least 50 mph. Knocked me unconscious in the back seat. Bent the trunk up to the rear window, RR quarter wrapped to nearly the door, gas tank flattened front to back, transmission and engine mounts broken and fan into radiator. Had the frame and body pulled, replaced engine and transmission mounts. I "straightened" the trunk lid and bumper with a sledge hammer. Drove it another 200,000 miles (low oil pressure and engine knocking) --- my way to give the hoity toity crowd the middle finger. It was ugly but matched my empty wallet. Still have it as an organ donor: doors, dash, rear gears and some small parts on my convertible. Body work? Nobody is good at first. I started with a door on my first project and worked my way around the car. By the time I got back to that door, it looked pretty shabby compared to the most recent work.
  9. old-tank

    1954 century sedan. GA to NC

    Can you give us some details on the offer? $$ to total? Salvage: who gets it? $$ to repair? It can be repaired. The frame on those is weak behind the rear axle. Pulling the frame back along with some body pulling will solve the fit of other areas. That rear quarter may even be salvageable. You have a source for parts. Maybe a combination of best offer, some time in a body shop doing the rough-in and some work on your part learning how to do things.
  10. old-tank

    Dynaflow reliability

    Party pooper!
  11. old-tank

    56 idle speed, ignition timing, etc.

    Be sure the rest of the ignition system is correct including a stable correct dwell (about 30 degrees) through all rpm ranges. Usually if you cannot reduce rpm without dying it indicates a vacuum leak...disconnect and plug all lines. One of mine refuses to idle down due to vacuum leak around worn throttle shaft. I start it cold, rotate off fast idle cam and put in D (parking brake on and wheels blocked and remember not to touch the throttle).
  12. old-tank

    Dynaflow reliability

    I did the same in the early 60's except no dragstrip or trophies...country roads and MONEY: usually $5 (which is like $50 today). One guy with a 55 Chevy kept coming back for more after some upgrades. Even with dual exhaust, 4 barrel and other "power pack" stuff the outcome was the same. Spanked him at least 10 times. Even easier with standard transmission cars: they would pop the clutch and smoke the tires and/or miss or delay shifts.
  13. old-tank

    Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    You will have a real good leak when that plug comes out (and a krispy kritter too). It didn't do me any good, but if you whine and cry enough maybe Jon will rebuild it for you.
  14. old-tank

    The 2018 - 2500 Challenge

    So you will be essentially the same as 3.36 with stock 760-15 tires. And now I don't have to ask the next question which was accuracy of odometer. Mine has 3.41 gears and I use a speedometer gear for 3.60 gears to get the speedo and odometer accurate. My mpg is the same with the 760-15 bias and the 225/75R15 radials (they may roll easier, but the engine is spinning higher). Mine used to be near 20 mpg using leaded premium at 70 mph.
  15. old-tank

    Use Of Premium Fuel

    Probably has more since ethanol is an octane booster.
  16. old-tank

    The 2018 - 2500 Challenge

    That's real good for a 322. What rear gear ratio in yours?
  17. old-tank

    Dynaflow reliability

    The idle speeds noted are not that important since it idles higher than that on the high idle cam until the choke opens. The main problem with any idle speed is to be sure to have your foot firmly on the brake before shifting into any gear, especially reverse with any torque tube drive. When in a forward gear power is transmitted into the thrust pad which is attached to the frame by way of the transmission support. In reverse the power is pulling through the thrust pad, which can be damaged. (don't try backing uphill with a defective thrust pad: you will get some bucking then it will jump into Low). I don't know what my idle speed is...it is set to give some charging with the A/C on, some extra circulation of the water pump, and compensation for worn throttle shafts.
  18. old-tank

    Dynaflow reliability

    You are the right track with the mounts. With the carb set on the high idle cam have someone shift through the gears (with a foot firmly on the brake pedal) while you observe any abnormal movement of the engine. The L-D shift on some is just harsher. Could be blamed on new clutches that are more aggressive, properties of the fluid used... Using L generates the highest pressures to hold a band around a drum; when shifted to D fluid at lesser pressure is directed from the band to the clutch pack (similar to what happens when a step gear transmission shifts). I only use L for a seldom needed fast getaway, for crawling congested traffic driving mainly to keep the rpm up to avoid overheating, mountain driving for increased engine braking and increased power at lower speeds at high (low engine power) altitudes... and sometime just for the hell of it to lay down a 20 ft black strip.
  19. old-tank

    Dynaflow reliability

    Most of those have never even driven a properly functioning dynaflow. You should ditch the dynaflow if you want to be jerked around by a step gear transmission hunting for gears shifting up and down. You should ditch the dynaflow if you would rather have an overdrive transmission with lockup torque converter so that you lose throttle response until you stomp it rather than a nudge; so that you lose engine braking during slow down ( now you have to convert to disc brakes ). If you need a faster takeoff then that is what Low is for; the 1956 and later transmission had switch-pitch that worked in Low...stomp one and you have the ultimate hole-shot. I was telling my transmission builder and mentor how I "abused" my dynaflow by holding in Low up to 60 mph; I was expecting a lecture from the crusty old dude when he said "won't hurt it". I drove my first dynaflow like that for 250,000 miles and replaced with a $100 used unit due to severe leaking. With the outer torque ball retainer kits available, 90% of the leaks are stopped; others just need gaskets and some sealing around some bolts and studs that go into a fluid cavity. The dynaflow is a relatively simple transmission that any of us could rebuild following the shop manual.
  20. old-tank

    Use Of Premium Fuel

    Like all of my 55's yours will run well on 87 octane with no additives.
  21. old-tank

    Dynaflow Tips, Trick and Problem Resolutions

    Any time a dynaflow performance issue comes up, I recommend doing the pressure tests as outline in the service manual. Forum member Mudbone posted a bench test video which can be done installed in the car: HERE More dynaflow repair videos HERE
  22. Look at the wiring diagram in your service manual.
  23. old-tank

    Dynaflow Tips, Trick and Problem Resolutions

    Any cap that needs to be screwed on against spring pressure is a chore. This is not so bad with the tranny on a work bench upside down. It is doable, but warn the neighbors to protect their children's' delicate ears first .
  24. old-tank

    Dynaflow Tips, Trick and Problem Resolutions

    That's it.
  25. old-tank

    Dynaflow Tips, Trick and Problem Resolutions

    Don't take anything apart without reading and understanding the service manual!! To answer your question, yes there is a big ol' spring in there and it is a "beach" to get the cap back on. Most of the leaks are around the shaft for the switch pitch control. The service manual calls the cap around the shaft a bearing and there is a little lip seal that does not even come in a rebuild kit that by now is crusty and useless. You will have source your seal using the bore and shaft size...