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old-tank last won the day on January 19

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  1. If you can get that 55 264 engine cheap enough use those heads (also crank and rods if late engine if needed). 55 heads with 56 pistons will give higher compression than 56 heads. But some 56 aftermarket pistons will hit the head, so that will need to carefully checked out. I have a set (+0.030) of NORS Sealed Power 56 pistons (paid way-way too much for) that I was going to use in my 55 someday. See what you have when it is opened up...
  2. New Old Scrap...New Old Seconds
  3. Bypassed for awhile if the heater is on. The nipple on the crossover manifold goes to the heaters and valve then to the bottom of the radiator...the other nipples on the timing cover go to the tranny cooler. See the tips on heater hoses on my website.
  4. So now we should call it N-O-T? I found out a long time ago that NOS stood for New Old Scat: 'NOS' grill for a 55 in original unopened box had severe casting defects...not good enough for a new car (or restored car), but good enough for a 5 year old one maybe.
  5. The temperature gauge is in the expected position for 180*. At only 200* it is pegged out hot...and still pegged at much higher temps . Don't know why reading with heat gun are low...should be 180* at thermostat housing unless there is a leak around the thermostat. I have to drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange to purge the air in system (maybe you were reading air?)
  6. Use some JB Weld to fill the pits and then file down. Maybe even coat an old sealing ring with grease and use as a mold to build up that area on the manifold.
  7. Here is for comparison the bob weight record on my 322. It was balanced with the harmonic balancer and flexplate/flywheel attached. Piston, pin, locks 785 gram Rings 57 gram Recip rod 184 gram Rot rod 464 gram Bearings 52 gram Oil 4 gram Total 2063 gram Somebody further up the food chain will have to interpret the differences.
  8. Heavy deposits like the one plug can be caused by coolant (antifreeze) leaks into that cylinder, but there will usually be rust on the plug threads (if you had only water in the cooling system it would be the cleanest plug). If you are going to disassemble the engine, then you will soon find out if the thicker heads gaskets were used. My readings were like that for 80,000 miles on a set of cylinder heads that had severe exhaust and intake valve seat recession, increasing the chamber volume. Reading now are near 140 with the Egge pistons (lower compression compromise) compared to 160 for my cars with original pistons. Oil at the base of the plug can be caused by inadequate tightening.
  9. Remove the carbon on the upper cylinder with a scraper and scotchbrite. If you can easily catch a fingernail on a ridge (meaning the it is over 0.010 wear in the cylinder), then the block should be bored. If you own a ridge reamer, throw it away...if not then run! Proper installation of the tool requires a straight cylinder bore; most are out of round and tapered and will result over cutting and ruining the cylinder. Hopefully a hone will clean it up, but the bore should be carefully measured since in the past it may have had a ridge previously removed.
  10. JBWeld should work to fill cracks and pits in an intake manifold in the areas you describe.
  11. Here is a visual.... https://www.teambuick.com/reference/nailhead_part_interchange.php
  12. Also note the old oil burning 'smudge pot' hazard warnings at the base of the stairs.
  13. ...and the starter relay which finds ground through the armature during cranking loses that after charging starts (2 safety features).
  14. Eewww...
  15. My guess on the detonation would be possible differences in the vacuum advance. Maybe the Rochester is not supplying vacuum? If there is no detonation on full throttle , but present on part throttle, consider maybe even the wrong vacuum advance with too light spring?