NTX5467

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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

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About NTX5467

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    Sr Mbr -- BCA 20811
  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. The "heat" the piston "sees" is far greater than the coolant temperature you reference. The factory hone marks on the piston pin "hole" in the connecting rod don't wear away It's honed to size for the specific "fit" on the piston pin. At this point in time, the engine builder is the alleged "expert" in what he does/did. He obviously believes what he does, which might come from another "trusted source", and any challenges from some "young person" (with allegedly less total knowledge or experience) can be amusing to him. So, your presentation MUST be understandable AND logical. Key things . . . the piston pin end of the rod didn't wear as he alleged it did in the very short mileage on the engine, even if his theory might be credible. The connecting rod was modified by somebody, whether it was him or the balance shop. But a key thing, to me, is that "full floating" rods need matching pistons AND piston pins that are shorter and require a retention method to keep them inside the piston's pin hole. With your new comparisons and knowledge, it might appear you have stronger case. Not surprising that other machinists in the local area might chose to not get involved. Several reasons for this. You might do the Perry Mason routine and get a third party "expert witness" from a race engine oriented machine shop and NOT the one you're involved with, past or present. In other words, somebody that can explain what had to have happened. Good to see that you're enthusiastically anticipating college! Remember to prioritize your learning in all areas . . . class work, "play", and otherwise. NTX5467
  2. In the middle 1960s, when hang-down add-on a/c was popular, one of the premium brands was "Mark IV". It looked the best and was supposed to perform the best. Kind of looked like the Ford Select-Aire premium a/c unit. Pretty upscale compared to some! When Dad and I went shopping for an add-on a/c unit for our '61 BelAir, almost everybody had a unit they could take to the car and see how it would fit the dash panel. Some units were longer than others. Most had a larger body than the air distribution portion of the case. In order to get a good fit on the one we ended up choosing, it was necessary to angle the rear downward to minimize intrusion on the center passenger's area. The next year, we went to Houston in the summer (to attend baseball games in the then-new AstroDome. In the humidity, it would freeze-up. As it thawed out, we made sure the vents were aimed upward so that any droplets would land in the back seat, as we slunked-down in the front seat. My aunt caught on to that little deal. Such fun! Those were the daaaayyyysssssss . . . . NTX5467
  3. Always seems interesting that some bill notifications or insurance "we paid ________" and "You may be billed $______ by_________". How many other entities can normally run 6 months behind in their billing? NTX5467
  4. This might only work on tanks which have no other external vent fittings and use a "vented" cap, I suspect. NTX5467
  5. IF you can find '64 and prior big Ford car with factory a/c, you can use that factory under-dash unit. Or even from a Mustang as all Ford had for factory a/c was under dash units. In '65, the Galaxie-type cars finally got "integral" a/c. Parts for these Ford units should be available, especially for the Mustang models. They look quite nice, although a Buick emblem could take the place of the Ford crest. From there, you'll need the mounting brackets, possibly from a mid-60s 401 or 425 Buick? The A-6 compressor has a similar Denso unit that is a direct replacement for the GM A-6, is made of aluminum, takes less horsepower to run, and is in the $300.00 range (last time I checked). The system would just need hoses from this point and electricity for the compressor and inside unit. The thermostat is on the inside unit, so nothing is needed in the way of POA (the real OEM style!!) or pressure switches to cycle the compressor, as far as I know. You can probably find some Ford schematics online. Find an auto supply that can supply the needed line fittings and can make the hoses you need (barrier-type hose). The factory GM hose fitting for the compressor lines has many configurations, depending upon how the hoses need to enter and exit the rear of the compressor. Condenser size if very important with R-134a. Put the biggest universal one you can find that will also fit in the desired space behind the grille. "Mass flow" rather than "serpentine flow" is supposed to work best, too. And, of course, the receiver/dryer has to be plumbed somewhere. I found some wood floor underlayment at Home Depot the other night. Silver mylar on both sides with a thin layer of foam in the middle. Use these to make the door watershields behind the trim panels. Some heat reflectivity and foam for insulation. Then some DynaMat (or similar) on the floors and possibly some new carpet padding under the existing floor covering. Something above the head liner, too, if possible. All for better sound and heat/cold insulation. Don't forget that you'll need to drill a hole in the trans hump for the condensate drain tube! There's you an OEM-based system that can possibly be salvage-yarded with ready (hopefully) parts availability, if needed. Enjoy! NTX5467
  6. I don't think it's so much the "innovative" or "unusual" degree per se, BUT who made up the curriculum and printed the books used for them? YIKES! NO school wants to be perceived as being "old" as others test the boundaries of what areas of specialization students desire. Although there are some majors which will always be in demand, you never really know until "5 years out" what the next "new thing" might be (after it's too late). To me, getting back to a science, technology, physical health, and communications general orientation might be good. BUT unless workers get good training, regardless of formal education, the result is mediocre at best. To me, "good training" also comes with explanations of what didn't work, so don't make these same mistakes as you traverse your learning curve. That last issue seems to get lost about three "generations" past when the "what not to do" surfaces, by observation. This has resulted in "best practices" and "scripts", whether by class work or computer screen prompts, so we're back to where we started. As businesses have combined and grown to the sizes they now are, the alleged focus on customer service has become less of an issue. People go to them for the product and a willing employee that can show them where it is in the store . . . little else. Going somewhere where the employees can offer direction and advice, even if it's just the ONE you encounter, makes you want to return later. No matter if it's at a car dealership parts dept or a big box retailer. You hope that if you go to a smaller, local store that the employees will have a higher level of training or product knowledge, but sometimes that doesn't work either. As for "informed customers", the Internet can be an enemy, but sometimes can help. IF the informed customer is really knowledgeable about that which they desire, them doing their research first can help the situation along. IF, on the other hand, they are new to the game, they might not know which internet advice is good and which is not. Some internet information, from postings, is perceived to be "correct", when the poster is merely re-stating what has been posted in another forum. NO efforts to validate it prior to posting it, usually. IF the posted information is "flaky", that CAN be an issue at the local parts counter! They found it on the Internet, so it must be true! Then, a good counterperson will have enough product knowledge and back-up information to indicate that what's been found might not be completely accurate, in those online postings. THAT can make the difference, the explanation of things, between somebody that just reads the listings and the one that can read between the lines and understand it. NTX5467
  7. Seems like the "post paid" issue requires only some paperwork and $$$ to do it? Only downside is that with about 8000 members, of which only about 1000 vote, the cost-benefit situation might not be good for the BCA. No doubt, there are some funds that could tolerate a one-time hit, but with such low ballot return, why lose money if you don't have to? IF the BCA would be billed ONLY for the items actually sent, plus the initial charge, that might be a better situation. On the other hand, such costs might be termed "an investment in the BCA's future", of which actual return on investment might not be that critical. Again, with such a low response rate, might this investment be cost effective? Many might lobby for electronic ballots. Perhaps we might take some cues from the political election segment? Denton County, TX recently spent money to go back to paper ballots! Reason? They had to do three recounts of their electronic voting apparatus this last election cycle. When the voter arrives to vote, the particular ballot is printed on-the-spot and the voting process begins for that voter. In the case of the BCA, where the ballot is a part of the monthly magazine, there might be a way to notify The Office that a ballot has been sent and then mark it off the list when it's received and processed? Then, the "lost" mailings might be investigated individually from THAT end of things, at that time. The voter paying for a postage stamp could be interpreted as THEIR investment in the BCA's future, as financially small as it might be. In addition to their annual club membership. There is "a cost" for everything. Just depends upon who finances it and for what benefit. Something tells me that a post-paid ballot return situation might not be the "magic bullet" which is desired to increase voter "turnout". I suspect that a survey of such, outside of this forum to seek to include more BCA members, might be suggested. I'm reminded of a story in Bob Lutz's book "GUTS". They were doing some surveys at a major auto show. They were asking people if they needed a couple of extra cupholders in their Chrysler Corp. minivans. Of course, everybody responded "Yes". When the questioning continued to "Would you pay another $25.00 for those extra cupholders, the answer was "No". KInd of like a local city election we had. Everybody wanted a new aquatics center, but resoundingly voted it down as it would raise taxes (very little). Post-election polling indicated the voters figured the project should be paid for out of the normal operating budget (no tax increase). Perhaps the post-paid ballot return might fit those scenarios? People want and will accept what they don't have to pay for OR is funded from a normal budget line, although it ultimately is paid for by them, anyway? After BOD discussion, deliberation, and final discussions, it's their decision . . . which we will abide by. Willis Bell 20811
  8. In trying to choose an upholstery shop to sew an interior together, I'd find out who the local new car dealerships use for their warranty repairs on vehicles. There's usually one that stands out. Also one that can do leather replacements on new vehicles, too, even if from a vendor's kit. Key thing to me is that when you say "OEM level quality", they know what that means. The next step is to use OEM-level fabrics and vinyls. There are even some OEM fabrics which look the same (as we found out in middle-1980s Chevy Caprices and Pontiac Bonnevilles), but one is significantly heavier than the other one. In this case, the Chevy fabric looked "see-through" and the Pontiac fabric was very much thicker (and has lasted "like iron"). And the price was about (at that time) about $1/yard more. If you're not going completely original and can tolerate a little color shade variation from the original (especially if you'll end up with the whole interior "done", then look at the color swatches at the trim shop. Headliners can be tricky to install and not have wrinkles, kind of like a convertible top. With the headliner out, you can add some more jute insulation between it and the fabric, possibly. If you're going to do it in stages, buy ALL of the seat fabric and vinyl at ONE TIME. This ensures that it all matches later on! There can be variations in the 'dye lots" of things between batches, although the batches are made to the same specification range. And also get more than enough to do the door panels, too, all purchased from the same bolts of material! In another thread, the owner sent off for swatches, which were what he wanted. When he did purchase the fabric a year later, what they sent was from a bolt of fabric wehre the screen printing of the design was offset and not acceptable. Therefore, if they have what you need, get all of the fabric right after you get the acceptable swatch back! Carpet prices can vary, too, as material varies. Some come with a seam on the center of the transmission hump as others might be fully molder to the floorpan and need no such seam. The protective cover of the exposed edges are another item to inquire about. LOTS of things to ask about before it all happens! Prices can vary, too. When you find a good shop, they'll have plenty to do already. Be patient. NTX5467
  9. Performance wise, you'll probably never know the difference between head gaskets. That minor increase in CR MIGHT make 1 or 2 additional horsepower. Factor that down by about 20% for powertrain power absorption, and you see where it ends up. Acceleration might better be helped by increasing the tire pressure to max. ALL composite head gaskets need a "fire ring" for sealing, period. Some makers, on their higher-level/performance gaskets, will add a thin copper wire inside the ring's "U" area for a better seal (akin to "o-ringing" a block, but without that labor operation). The metal O-rings were usually used with "dead soft copper" head gaskets, which are NOT a streetable item. Other than stock purists, when the Chevy steel shim head gaskets were replaced by the composite gasket, the only people who chased after those last remaining steel shim gaskets were usually racers. In some cases, they'd stack two of them, for a build thickness of .036", which was still less than the typical .060" of the composite gaskets. For them, that marginal additional CR might make the few horsepower that it took for them to win a close race. But that doesn't count driving ability and such. All of this is presuming nothing was cut from the cylinder head surface that would reduce combustion chamber volume or shape! In more recent years, the items in the composite head gaskets have improved from what they were 40 years ago, when they were typically "budget" gaskets. Follow all instructions for correct gasket orientation and placement, plus the mention of "sealer". Enjoy! NTX5467
  10. Some of those stories might have more logic than suspected, using unconventional implements to do certain things. Before McGuyver 1 or McGuyver 2. Did you even kill a snake, then swing it in circles over your head, then release it, and see if it landed on its belly or back? To predict rain. NO second or more tries, usually. NTX5467
  11. At the cruise events, IF a muscle car rumbles past and you hear the electric fuel pump, you know it should be a serious performance vehicle (with greater than normal fuel needs). Many were switched separately so that prior to the ignition switch being used, the pump was turned on. Probably ought to power it with a relay attached to the oil pressure sensor, for good measure? Several ways to power the pump, anyway. In many cases, some rubber isolation at the pump mounting bracket can help noise transmission issues, but not the noise the pump normally might make. There are some OEM inline pumps that are silent. As Old-Tank mentions, a booster pump is needed in hotter weather an/or slow traffic situations. In many cases, "vapor lock" can be more related to the brand of vehicle than the fuel itself, as it existed when the cars were newer in the hotter regions of the country. I remember reading about it in the 1960s. NTX5467
  12. The "generational aspect" of the parts business has been around for a very long time. Just that when technology and vehicle architectures are somewhat stable, as they can be for extended periods of time, things are easier to deal with as they are "more common" in nature. Even then, there were some parts guys who gravitated to know more about pickups than cars, or body parts more than mechanical parts, for example, with larger trucks being in their own universe. Unless they keep up with things, many know more about the age of the cars they drive than anything newer, by observation. What they're interested in. Nothing's changed. No matter of how they're paid. Using rockauto as a research base was something I started doing 20 years ago, when I found out about it. It was easier than trying to maintain a whole pile of old paper catalogs. Auto supplies usually have their regional jobbers they source out of. The chain stores have their own dedicated networks. Sometimes they cross, sometimes not. Where there used to be three or four jobbers, there are now 1 or 2. Many product lines have consolidated via "investors" getting a diverse group of products under their control. Two main "funds" now control competing product lines of the major brands we've know for years, which were their own operations in prior times. Be that as it may. Result is that many chain stores have databases of their own. If they don't show it, it's not available to them. Even NAPA is that way, on a regional basis. This makes rockauto much more of "a value" to the enthusiast who can look up their own parts. Bad thing about the old catalogs I took pains to accumulate in the 1980s-90s is that most everything in them is now usually available. Or at least not widely available. They can be historical reference items, to hopefully better determine what was different between model years and such, but not information like it used to be. NTX5467
  13. The "hand cutter" has tabs which are a "cam" with variable depths of cuts. Operates by hand only. Insert the key fully into it, set the tabs to match the cut depths, and cut each item sequentially to the end. \ Sound like what they used was a trace operation. On our computerized cutters, once the key blank has been selected, if it's a trace, the "pattern" is inserted into the top slot and the fresh blank is put into the bottom slot in the particular cartridge. Punch the button and it "goes". If a cut code, just the fresh blank is put into the bottom slot. Have to put it in squarely and such or it'll cut it wrong. In any event, although training might have indicated otherwise (trust the computer), it would seem that if the clerk had any knowledge of how key cylinders worked, the importance of "the slots" would be evident, and how the letter codes could identify them. OR at least a visual confirmation of "match" or "no match", even if the letter codes were not present. For years, I didn't want anything to do with cutting keys, but after I read the section in my 1968 Buick service manual, it all made sense. No real mysteries, once it was all explained in print. I already knew about specific key blanks, but no knowledge of what went on with the cylinder's guts at that time. I'd watched our alleged "gurus" cut keys and code cylinders. Seems there was always additional labor operations involved, rather than "remove and replace", as it should be. Lots of scrunched-up mouth positions, sometimes! In retrospect, we might not have had the correct tumblers or they'd somehow got mixed in the box. Anyway, something I didn't desire to know anything about, back then. It helps if it's something you do pretty often and have the correct items to deal with. Cutting and duplicating the normal keys, even worn original keys, is not the "black science" I originally suspected it to be. NTX5467 .
  14. In one respect, they won't be any more "lost" than an auto supply clerk who knows little about cars, by observation. Once, I went into a metro-area auto supply in search of a "timing tape" (a tape with degrees of rotation to go onto the balancer so a normal, as in 1970 normal, could be used to check distributor advance). He acted like he knew what I was talking about and came back with a timing chain for the engine I mentioned. Then looked surprised when it was not what I wanted. I explained what a "timing tape" was and he went back to the office, then came back and said they didn't have that. Another time, I went in search of "point grease", in the 1990s. The chain auto supply/repair store I went to had a younger guy who was visiting with his girlfriend, which I interrupted. I asked for "point grease" and he brought me some wheel bearing grease. As if "grease is grease". I advised that that was too heavy for what I wanted, figured he had NO clue, and went to another place. Everybody, even US, had to build product knowledge of our vehicles. Younger people, by default, haven't got there yet. Something WE have to tolerate, unfortunately. The computerized parts databases we how have have a multitude of sort functions such that real knowledge is allegedly NOT necessary to use them. This, just as in the older times, can result in "They don't list that part . . ." The other thing is that our vehicles are well out of the 5-10 year old median age which many places stock parts for, generally. Or at least "in house stock". Still, a certain level of product knowledge IS still needed, although many haven't realized that just yet. Problem is . . . they might not ever realize that! NTX5467
  15. Steel shim head gasket. Installed thickness about .018". The "composite" gasket is usually about .060" installed thickness. Allegedly worth about .2 or .3 difference in compression ratio, from what I've read. Many replacement gasket sets used the composite gasket. It's a little more tolerant of uneven surfaces, I suspect, when compared to the steel shim gasket. NTX5467