NTX5467

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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

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About NTX5467

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  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. What about "the worm" and "with or without lime?"
  2. It seems that Standard has assembled many former stand-alone brands of car parts under their umbrella. Some "good enough", some allegedly "performance", and others. Yet EACH (at least in plug wires) still has their own market demographics to cover. If they are doing Echlin for NAPA, it's probably to NAPA's specs and not just repackaging another brand, I suspect. NTX5467
  3. When removing the rocker shaft assys, isn't there something about putting them back in a particular orientation when put back onto the cylinder head? ANYTHING that moves, after cleaning, needs some pre-lube and/or moly paste on it when reassembled, to me. Please keep us posted on yorr progress. NTX5467
  4. In addition to the moly lube paste for the lifter bottoms, many cam manufacturers also sell a liquid "cam and lifter pre-lube". The "old" method was to pour a can of GM EOS Concentrate over the cam and lifters before you closed the valley. There are also some tricks about soaking the lifters in motor oil overnight before installation in an attempt to get oil in them before the engine starts. The ONLY lube the cam lobes get is from "splash", rather than pressurized oil (as main and rod bearings), which is why the recommendation of the higher rpm for 30 minutes when a cam/lifters are replaced. The oil slinging off of the crankshaft bearings is "splash", so putting some variation into the rpm after it runs a while gets oil to different places. IF you decide to replace the cam sprocket, a dab of moly paste where it contacts the block might not hurt, plus some of the liquid pre-lube on the chain and sprockets so there'll be something there until they get their normal splash oiling. If you do remove the sprocket, the current one, some additional oil would be good, too. It IS possible to change cams "in chassis" on many vehicles. BUT look at what's in front of the water pump (radiator, grille, etc, which will all need to be removed to gain access to the cam. The only time you need to change cam bearings is when a block is "tanked" as the solution dissolves bearing material. The cam bearings have to be knocked IN and OUT, for which the engine MUST be removed and secured on a holding fixture. Getting the camshaft out is one thing, getting it back IN is another! Even if you use a holding "tool" for the cam to carefully guide it into the bearings, all the way to the back, even on an engine stand, it's not as easy to get back into place as it was coming out. PLUS being strong enough to hold it steady so any cam bearings aren't "nicked" going back in. I fully understand the "While we're here . . ." orientation, especially as we all desire the best outcomes for what we're doing. BUT, as pointed out, there HAS to be a stopping place somewhere while also fixing what started it all in the first place. As some have mentioned . . . "Less is best", many times as "more" doesn't seem to work as well as we thought it might. NTX5467
  5. When I upgraded the cam in my Camaro, the engine was at 10.5" Hg in gear at idle. The PCV is a calibrated vacuum leak in the fuel supply system. Metering calibrations accommodate that, as well as the air bleeding in through the throttle shafts in the base plate. I was trying to get a little better idle and discovered that later 1970s L82 Corvettes had a different PCV part number. They had a purple color on the bottom half of the valve for ID purposes. The L82 valve had a higher flow rate and raised the idle rpm about 25rpm with no speed screw adjustments. I swapped them out a few times and ended up back with the normal L48 valve. Prior to this, I'd discovered a MOTOR Manual-type book which a local Exxon service station guy had. It had a chart with PCV flow specs. Most were close, with a few with more flow. At that time, I didn't correlate flow with engine specs. Seems like the norm was about 1.6 cfm? Not all of the several manuals he had had this PCV flow spec chart. The manual had some other specs I hadn't seen anywhere else, as total ignition advance (vacuum + mechanical) at 2500rpm, which were WAY more than the mechanical + initial setting we were used to figuring. But this was at part-throttle cruising rpm so both mechanical and vacuum were needed in that operational mode. As for torching the road draft tube, I saw that done a few times in the middle 1960s. The tube was placed on an open section of shop floor, then "lit" with a blow torch until it burned on its own. After a while, the fire would go out and the tube would be gently handled and any real obstruction (the filter?) would be prodded out. Then possibly more torching. A hot tank soak would be a good deal, but would have taken longer and cost more money. In more recent times, a hot tank would probably be the best. The OTHER side of tat deal is that the passages in the block which "feed" the road draft tube would need to be open and clear, also. The torch worked quicker and achieved reasonable results. IF the car smoked a lot, then accumulated stuff would grow back reasonably soon. Could it be that crankshaft windage (at lower rpms) would pull air into the crankcase from the breathers and then force it out through the draft tube? Otherwise, any smoke at idle would have come out of the breather or slots in the top of the valve cover? I'm not sure why the concern with manifold vacuum per se. The normal GM (and probably others) has an internal spring which will limit flow with the engine in gear, not just "out of gear". My Camaro 350 went down to 10.5" Hg at idle in gear, against the brake. Things worked fine. The L82 valve has a tad more flow, but would also work at the same lower vacuum levels, too, I suspect. The only issues I had was after many miles, the PCV passages in the base of the carb would clog and need to be cleaned mechanically. But that was well past 250K miles with oil consumption about 4k/quart. NTX5467
  6. Two not-admitted-to issues with electronic ignition. ONE, there is a minimum voltage that makes the module work. Below that voltage level, the engine can still crank but will not fire and run. Add jumper cables to another car and it starts immediately. TWO is that there used to be a 1 degree/1000rpm retard built into the system. Early systems mentioned that, which would allow for a few degrees MORE near idle and not exceed the total advance level. With ignition points, IF a spark can happen at the spark plug or in the distributor cap, the engine can potentially start and run. The main issue I've seen with older distributors is Cam Lobe Wear. That can mean the point gap can vary between cylinders, even if the dwell meter reading is in-spec. Sometimes, the wear can be enough that when the point gap is "in spec" the dwell reading will not be correct. A dial indication will illustrate this situation very clearly. NTX5467
  7. It might well be that brake fluid-compatible seals are not around any more? Brake fluid was probably used as it was a fluid which was commonly available at the corner service station whereas any genuine hydraulic oil would not be that available. Just as earlier power steering systems used Type A atf BEFORE the same OEMs designed their own genuine power steering only fluid for those systems. For later GM systems which should have genuine power steering fluid, putting too much atf in the system will eventually result in seal leaks and line seeps, from my experience. Getting genuine GM power steering fluid back in the system stops that. In many cases, what's now sold as power top motors/reservoirs is much more late-model oriented, so they would need the later fluid in that system. NTX5467
  8. When the vacuum pulls thee plunger closed at high vacuum levels, then the flow goes through drilled orifices in the plunger's core. The one you purchased is probably for a generic Chevrolet application. The way clogged road draft tubes were "cleaned" was to remove them, lay them on an open floor space, then use a torch to light the oily residue inside of the tube, then let it "burn out". That was back in the middle 1960s timeframe rather than in more modern times were such might even be illegal in some places. You can probably find pictures of the early Chevrolet (1965-67) PCV system in the restoration catalogs. Pretty simple. A metal "cone" went over the road draft tube hole, with appropriate sealing. The vacuum line nipple on the cone had a rubber hose which went to a screw-in PCV which screwed into a brass fitting on the carb baseplate on the rear. NOT unlike what you did, just a different way of doing it. On almost ALL factory pcv systems, the valve cover hole is baffled to prevent oil splash from being sucked into the pcv system. It would be an "oil mist" in the valve covers rather than "solid" oil. I understand the reason you plumbed it as you did, but a vacuum tap on the base of the carb would probably work better AND not expose the fuel pump diaphragm to things it wasn't designed to resist. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  9. Somebody as Russ could put together "a kit", but such a thing, otherwise, did not exist even when the motors were newer. The only "kits" were gasket kits. An oil pan kit, a front cover kit, and the intake manifold kit. Some gasket makers do sell a "valve grind kit" which includes all gaskets to remove the heads from the block. Bearing kits will exist, for the rods and one for the mains. Piston ring kits can exist as per piston kits. Pistons will be individuals. SO, it will take an active rebuilder or a competent machine shop to put together "a kit" for the engine rebuilding operations. Sealed Power did allow a customer to build their own "kit", from individual pieces, for a better price than as all "individuals". Key thing is to know the sizing of the various hard parts. The bearing journal sizes (rod and main), plus the cylinder bore diameter, will be needed BEFORE any items are ordered. Generally, an engine machine shop likes to do their own sourcing as then if something comes up wrong, then THEY control how it's made right. When a customer does their own sourcing and then brings it to the shop, if something's wrong or incorrect, they THEY have to wait for somebody else to make things happen, rather than themselves doing it , , , that way THEY are in control of their production operations. Curious as to where you've been looking for parts? Just a question. Take care, NTX5467
  10. The only thing I remember manufacturers NOT selling with highest performance engines (and/or 4-speed manual transmissions) was air conditioning. Something about compressors not liking higher rpms for any length of time? Possibly fewer belts to replace, too. The harder-core drag racers didn't want any of that "power stuff" as it took horsepower away from the flywheel. That was before "bracket racing" became popular AND there were still enough "deserted venues" where acceleration tests could happen. I didn't hear of any body losing "a race" due to power steering or power brakes. "No traction" or "missing a shift", but not power accessories. NTX5467
  11. About 30 years ago, a guy in a car club I'm in was reacting to "normal insurance" from a story of tragic loss of vehicle. His insurance agent called and recommended "stated value coverage". This guy thought that was "the best", but it only gives the insurance people a value to work with . . . no more, no less, in determining what the insured pays. Later on, I determined that ALL insurance is "stated value" as the rates are "per $___" of vehicle value. Just that they have a better sense of what more recent model year vehicles are worth and (at that time) had nothing to check for "older vehicles" other than a copy of "The Auto Trader" to see what similar vehicles were selling for OR to find a replacement vehicle. In any event, same issues of dealing with adjusters and items which Brad mentioned are operative (depreciation, salvage value, etc.) I heard a guy at a dealership body shop relate that he had a car he was restoring, but still driving daily. He had the interior out for getting new covers installed. But THAT was when another party ran into him. When the adjuster saw the car, with the interior "out", he didn't consider it a "complete car", so he factored the settlement accordingiy lower. The guy said he battled with them to get them to understand the reason the interior was not in the car at the time of the accident. The newest thing seems to be "Agreed Value" coverage. As I understand it, you can put any value you want on a vehicle, even if it's overly-high, as that value is what YOU will be paying rates on as long as the policy is in force. That amount is also the upper cap of what the insurer will pay in the event of a total loss. Under the "old way", if you valued the vehicle way too high, then had a total loss, the insurer would only pay what THEY considered the car was worth or a negotiated value . . . which might be less than what the insured had been paying premiums on. When I was getting my policy updated several years ago, the local agent's employee could not tell me anything about what the ultimate cost might be. All that could be done was to look at an antique policy another customer had done. Until the rate quote was finalized, I didn't know anything until I got the next bill! As things are evolving, Brad's recommendation of using a specialty insurance company is making more sense. There are several of them so shopping them can be important! The particular STATE you're in can have an affect too . . . as to which company can write coverage in that particular state! Lots of things to consider and think about! NTX5467
  12. I'm GLAD he survived to tell his story! What they paid him for was "scrap metal salvage", but that vehicle was certainly NOT in "scrap" condition before the incident! If he had not accepted the settlement, which he had the right to not do, then it could be litigated to "value prior to the incident", not afterward. That would have been much more equitable, all things considered. In many cases, in prior times, a vehicle with no broken glass could not be "totaled" automatically. But I also understand his feelings at a time in his life which many are fast approaching. That part of his life has seemed to end, unfortunately, but I certainly HOPE his passion for the car hobby is still smoldering inside! It is a shame this happened to him!! For older cars, even those built in the 1970s, many insurance companies don't have value guides for them OR have any idea (officially) what the vehicle might be worth on the open market. When I got my own insurance policies redone a few years ago, as all of the vehicles were 1980 and prior (at that time), they wanted ME to put a value on them for rating purposes, which I did. "Uninsured motorist" coverage has been on my policies for decades, but even with that, "negotiations" would be necessary prior to a settlement regarding an older vehicle. NTX5467
  13. There is an interesting thread in the Oldsmobile forum about Delta88-type Oldsmobiles with the factory 4-speed option. Data plate info, too. I believe some production numbers, too. Related question while we're here, "How many Wildcats (of any year) were factory-equipped with the base 3-speed manual transmission"? Take care, NTX5467
  14. As with any mechanism, the "flexible joints" MIGHT need a little lubrication and clean-up of the accumulation of years of atmospheric exposure. Might not be a total fix, but it might help some. Just BE CAREFUL of any aerosol sprays to prevent their contents getting onto the top fabric!!! Even the non-pressurized bottle products, too!!! IF you might notice an imbalance in raising force, it might be that a hose has an internal separation issue, as with brakes where one side "applies" or doesn't release as the opposite wheel's brake does. NTX5467
  15. My '68 5467 still specs brake fluid. Even mentions wiping-down the extended cylinder rams with a rag soaked in brake fluid periodically for cleaning. IF you get the rams rebuilt, THEN you can use atf as it's all about seal and hose rubber compatibility. Getting the "air out of the lines" can be important. The sound of the motor WILL change when it's got non-fluid in the lines. It'll have a free-wheeling sound rather than sound like it's "under load". It might be best to check the fluid with the "top down" as if you fill it with the "top up", you might be filling the lines, too, which could result in "a mess" if the top is lowered and the fluid can't return to the reservoir??? There used to be a convertible top supplier in Florida? Or did he move north? I saw one of their catalogs and it had a kit for top refilling. A gallon jug of "fluid" with hoses to attach to the top reservoir, possibly to decrease spills in filling? The fill procedure, might need to include cycling the top up and down a time or two to help bleed the lines some, then recheck the fluid level per recommendations. It might take a time or two, The replacement motors I've seen advertised were "later model" set-ups, which might take some adaptation for older vehicles. Best to use what you have or get THAT one fixed IF it needs it. Perhaps 5563 has something to add to this as re-did his '63 convertible several years ago? Just some thoughts, NTX5467