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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

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About NTX5467

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    Sr Mbr -- BCA 20811
  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. 5w 30??

    IF the vehicle is not moving, those vapors are on their own to escape the crankcase. The PCV valve at least gives some consistency to the pan evacuation activity. On some modern engines, the "pcv" valve is just a gutted housing. Time spent at low manifold vacuum levels is minimal compared to part-throttle and idle mode operation, by observation. Modern highways have much cleaner pavement than in the earlier '60s when all cars had road draft tubes and those tubes' vapors ended up on the pavement of highways and such. Know what oil does when combined with moisture? Other than "milky gunk", other things can be detrimental, too. NTX5467
  2. new acquisitions at Browne Salvage, Sunset, TX

    HOPE you had your chigger repellant on!
  3. 1985 Le Sabre collectors edition.

    It's probably not just the 5.0L Olds engine that has the mentioned cooling fan issue, as it's the same construction as has been used since the first thermostatic clutch fans. Look for silicone fluid leaking past the seal on the input shaft. Sometimes, I suspect the fluid deteriorates and doesn't move in the clutch as it should. You can take a larger and blunt-ended Phillips screw driver and use that as a punch to put a dimple in each side of the fluid reservoirs on the stamped metal front of the clutch. This increases the fluid pressure inside the mechanism AND keeps the fan locked-in when it wouldn't normally be. The thermostatic spring controls the movement of the fluid between the reservoir side and the area where it "locks-up" the clutch to make the fan turn. Make sure, also, that if there is supposed to be a baffle behind the front bumper, and below it, possibly attaching to the lower part of the radiator support, that it's in place and "there". This helps produce a low pressure area behind the radiator to assist in air flow through the radiator and a/c condenser. The cooling fan should be "free-wheeling" on the highway as air flow through the radiator turns the fan and not engine rpm, unless heat conditions dictate. My experience with the ACDelco "Upgrade" radiator is not what others might have had. I had a 3-core Modine in my '77 Camaro and it was plugged, so the ACDelco "Upgrade" radiator was out at that time. The OEM-spec composite radiator with a larger trans cooler. I believe it was for an '85 El Camino, in the OEM application, but it was listed for the Camaro application in the ACDelco catalog. It fit well and took about 30 minutes to open the thermostat idling in the driveway at 80 degrees outside temps. It cools much better than any copper radiator I've seen. At the time, they were very inexpensive, by comparison to the Modine 3-cores. This was about 15 years ago! On the first one, normal sediment took its toll, so I got another one and kept the first one to get recored when I needed it. Still haven't needed it. No performance issues at all. Perhaps the aftermarket versions have more issues than the OEM-spec ACDelco units I was getting? I used to be able to put right at 2 gallons in the Modine, but the newer one takes less fluid to fill it. Higher efficiency too. Those later rwd LeSabres were exceptionally nice and luxurious cars! A different brand of "luxury" than we seem to have now. Cherish it and enjoy! NTX5467
  4. Oil drain plug

    A "plate" tack-welded to the inside of the oil pan for the oil pan drain plug? Just curious. In the later 1990s, I was looking through the GM parts database, Buick 3800 to be specific, and I noticed a ref number for a part I hadn't seen listed separately before, an engine oil pan drain plug "bung". It was only listed for a few model years, being a part of the oil pan unit in other years . . . I looked. So, I ordered one to see what it was. When we look through the hole with the oil pan drain plug removed, we see "threads" and the oily blackness of the void inside of the oil pan. What I was surprised at was that there were ONLY THREE THREADS in that "nut" that was to be attached to the inside of the oil pan. THREE thin threads! No wonder some got stripped out! By this time, GM engine drain plugs were standardized in size and configuration. In more recent years, some GM applications used a softer-material drain plug that was a golden-brown color and CAST rather than machined. Those particular drain plugs were notorious for wearing and stripping out. Only about a $1.00 or so. When the oil change techs started to ask for a new one (due to wear of the threads), I'd look to see if WE had done the last oil change or prior ones. If so, I charged the plug to the shop so there wasn't a conversation between the customer and the service advisor about the oil pan drain plug needing to be replaced (which used to NEVER happen!), so better to just charge it to the shop and go on. I was the only one who saw the reasoning behind that, it seems, but I never got questioned on it. My later associates just charged it to the customer. The drain plug on my Camaro became "weak", so I went in search of ways to get around that, knowing about the three threads issue. At Pep Boys, I found a whole end cap side display of drain plugs! Including a chrome-like "standard" engine oil drain plug w/gasket. I first learned of the oversize plugs soon after I went to work at the dealership. There were different "oversize" sizes. Single, double, and triple oversize, with a different "gasket" for them. Pure aftermarket. At that time, these were to save the oil drain plug nut/bung threads by cutting deeper ones. The related gaskets seemed to be more porous than the hard nylon ones the factory used back then. Engine oil drain plug gaskets? Several evolutions there, too! What was the spec engine oil drain plug gasket for Nailheads in the 1950s? Just curious. NTX5467
  5. 5w 30??

    You have to consider the ambient temperature of the oil in the pan when the engine is started. I believe the low number if for, basically, 32 degrees F (maybe 0 degrees Centigrade?), where it's got to be "thin" to flow well. Higher ambient temperatures will result in a viscosity between the two numbers. The other consideration is how long the vehicle is inactive between starts. When 0W-30 came out, there was wondering why it was needed. One of the reasons was that it got oil to the innards of the engine's oil galleys about 30% faster than the more normal 10W-30 oil did. Hence, less "cold-start" wear. But this might be splitting hairs, but it made good advertising copy! When my '77 Camaro was new, for the first oil change (and for many 100Ks later) it got a popular 20W-50 oil. When the temperature was in the 20s F, on the first cold start in the morning, it would turn over a little bit slower, but when it started (quickly), there was ONE lifter tick and then that went away. One tick and then it got quiet as the oil filled it. When the Nailheads were new (advanced for their time), I suspect the manual would recommend 30-weight for temperatures consistently above freezing. 20-weight down to 0 degrees F, and probably 10-weight for "polar" regions? That tells me that the clearances would tolerate those thinner oils pretty well. It was claimed that the early-1960s' 10W-30 multigrade oils would be more like 20W-20 after about 1000 miles of use. Probably due to the earlier chemistry not being nearly what it is now. The later-1960s oil chemistry allowed the old "super oils" of 10W-50 viscosity levels that would work as well in Alaska/Canada as in a TX summer. With that background, I think I'd be fine with 10W-30 as that was the default replacement for straight-weight 30, back then. I like that "C"-brand no-viscosity-break-down brand, too. Modern oil chemistry doesn't need the higher viscosity numbers to work, as earlier oils did, for the best protection. Your judgment call, NTX5467
  6. Car Club Question

    In the earlier days before "desktop publishing" became so available AND do-able, the club member who had a computer (and knew how to use it) usually got the newsletter and/or membership duties hung around their neck. Otherwise, it was type and cut/paste, then take it to a copy shop and get it copied, then mailed. That can take some time! Plus scheduling those operations to coincide with the time between mailing, receipt by the member, in relation to the club meeting. "Useful articles" can vary with the content of the club and the members' needs for good information in certain areas. If many are working on cars, more needs, if none or few are, decreased needs. Main things would be to relay information of what the group has or will do for meetings and related activities. Officers can make written comments, as desired, each month. Plus a "Schedule of Events" for meeting dates, activity dates, reminders, and such. The newsletter frequency can vary, but my observations have been that monthly works best. In the earlier days of webhosting, it usually took somebody that was in that business to make that happen. Twenty years later, it's not nearly as onerous to make happen, as things have progressed. Some even use Facebook, but as not everybody is on social media, the more traditional methods probably will work best. Just some observations, NTX5467
  7. Fuel cap 70 GS

    FCorrect! Not vented. RockAuto has a large selection of brands, locking and normal. Even ACDelco! Just don't go to a GM dealer to get one! Also fits a hoard of other Buicks, GM cars, Fords, Chryslers, BMW, even the AMX, and other brands! Generally 1965-70 model years. 1971 was the first year for Federal fuel vapor control and those caps have the longer locking tangs tangs on them, plus the "pressure relief" feature. NOT useable on earlier models and still seal correctly, nor can the earlier models be used on a '71 vehicle (locking tanks won't engage in the filler neck). NTX5467
  8. Fuel cap 70 GS

    For vehicles with the tank filler behind the license plate, you have to be careful of how high the cap's top is, lest it end up being the "travel limited" for the license plate to return to its "up" position fully. Once you have a locking cap that fails to unlock, the cost and effort AND expense of getting it removed far outweighs the cost of the fuel (at this time) that might be missing. Especially if you're on the way home from an event and need more than the remaining 1/4 or 1/8th tank of fuel to get there. Your money, your judgment call. NTX5467
  9. Magic Potions

    After a season of E10, my new mower go the "rpm ups and downs" syndrome. Acted like a governor gone bezerk, but there was NO governor! I fixed it with a strong dose (the label states there is no problem with "over-dose") of the Lucas Ethanol SHIELD (aka "green stuff"). After about 20 minutes of run time, in tall grass, the mower suddenly gained a steady rpm that was higher than it ever had, with a devilish higher-rpm sound, and stayed there. I could not make it bog of kill the motor by feeding it too much grass! It'd be under load, bt never faltered or died! End or "rpm up and downs" syndrome. If I ever put some pure E10 in it, it'd start to have a relapse, but another dose of the Lucas green stuff fixed it. When I put some in my 2000 Impala, nothing unusual in how it acted. The next time I used the mower (after the "higher rpm" time), it acted perfectly normal in all respects. Very well behaved! Other benefits? The spark plug is always clean. After the required number of pumps of the fuel bulb, it almost always starts on the first pull, if not the second . . . . unless some water has crept into the tank after a strong rain event. Happy grass slinging! NTX5467
  10. Thinking about making a fuel cell...

    When I saw what you proposed, my first thought was "A home-grown version of the Fuel Command Center, but low pressure". It IS possible for hot fuel issues under the hood, especially IF the fuel line is near a hot, radiating engine part, BUT as noted, the place "vapor lock" happens is well BEHIND the engine compartment, usually. You might increase the fuel density a little with a chilled pump under the hood, but how are you going to regenerate the chilling effect of ice after it melts in July/August? Unless you chill the fuel in a Yeti cooler? I got my new Summit Catalog yesterday. I noticed a selection of three auxiliary fuel pumps. One was for about 4.5 psi pressure and about $40.00. ONLY drive on concrete roadways, rather than dark asphalt. Roadway temperatures will be less and heat radiated up and absorbed by the fuel tank will be less. Putting a shiny silver coating on the underside of the fuel tank might help, too. IF you can figure out some way to decrease the fuel temperature in the tank, then insulate the fuel line going to the front in some manner, maintain that cooler fuel at the lower temperature all the way to the carb, you MIGHT discover how to make all of that happen. Another thing would be to plumb a return line to the fuel tank, from the pre-carb area of the fuel line, under the hood. Chevrolet and Chrysler products used such a separator in the later 1960s and early 1970s. OR you can figure out how to adapt a later 3-line fuel pump to the Nailhead. End result is a constantly moving stream of fuel between the tank and fuel pump, which spends less time in the line to absorb heat and vaporize. Just don't build a whitting time bomb under the hood of your Buick! Use that LuberFiner housing to fill with cool water, then use a windshield washer pump to pump water to some nozzles placed near the length of fuel line. When the evil vapor appears, then douse it with jets of water spray to cool the fuel line. MIght work better than clothes pins! And easier to do that find an ice cream store with a car that won't run right! You can fine-tune the water mixture to also use a bit of alcohol for an additional cooling affect. If you want to be "higher tech", you can use some sensors to check the fuel temperature and pressure. When the sensors exceed any parameters, the water spray happens automatically, then shuts off when fuel pressure consistently returns or the temperature decreases. AND a "low water sensor" and warning light would be needed. NTX5467
  11. Car Club Question

    The issue of "burnout" (not tires!) is a very real thing, it seems, in car clubs. In one other car club I'm in, it seemed that if we elected a guy President, he'd do that for a few years, then he wouldn't run for that office the next time. He'd quit coming to meetings and might re-appear 5 years later. In other car clubs, after their stint as President was over, some weren't seen again! In other cases, some are "Officers for LIFE", it seems. When you first join one of these-type organizations, then are a member for a few years, eventually, you'll be asked to become an officer of some type. IF you accept that challenge, one should be prepared to work with the other officers AND the membership to make the whole deal a better group, if for no other reason that "You're a part of it". Once you get used to it and comfortable with what and whom is involved, it can get to be pretty easy AND more fun. These experiences can broaden your expertise and knowledge of what and how to do things, for the group. The amount of time these things take can be variable and depend upon how much delegation you're comfortable with doing. There is ONE orientation that must be followed for best observed success . . . Don't try to make your group into what another group might be. Use what the other group(s) might do, or how they do it, to adapt to your group and see if the membership likes it. Then you go from there and see how it all evolves. EACH group is different and that must be respected,, no matter what. Let them make suggestions and the membership determine what they desire to do. The chapter officers and offer input and such and moderate this process. It all needs to be a group consensus of what to do and how to do it. IF you're going to suggest something, be sure to "bird-dog" it so it works as desired and everybody might desire to do it again, at another time. As noted, when there is a paid contractor, there can be more control over situations. What happens, when, and how. But not every group has the money to support this situation, so that falls back on volunteers. I've also observed situations where a difference of orientation might exist between the "requesters" and the volunteer "implementers". Just be careful to hand over "full control, without over-sight" to any one person who's going to do something. Our officers did that one time. The member seemed responsible, but had his own orientation of how much money he could spend. When he handed us the bills, they were more than they should have been. In our chapter officer discussion afterward, I noted that we did give him full control, hoping he would not go "hog wild" in spending. He went over-budget, we reimbursed the expenses, and said we'd never do that again. We had enough money in the chapter treasury to do the deal, even at the elevated level, so it wasn't like it bankrupted us or anything like that. Learn from mistakes in a continuous improvement orientation. There's an interesting background of the "e-990 Postcard" that all non-profits are supposed to file each year, in order to maintain their tax-exempt status. PM me for details. Willis Bell 20811
  12. On the front coils, there IS a particular way they mount and interface with the lower control arm. The replaced springs will need to be in this SAME position/orientation. Also, on some applications, a 1/8" thick rubber isolator is used at the top of the front coil. There are some OEM applications, but they can be sourced via the spring supply network, I suspect. Not sure if your particular application uses them. NTX5467
  13. Replacing Vacuum Check Valve 1960 Electra

    To simplify things, I would investigate the inline vacuum check valves on the HELP! rack at the auto supply. Many of these were used in the '70s to "delay" vacuum advance to the distributor on many different makes (usually Ford and GM). Turn the delay valve backwards and it becomes a check valve. Along about '85 or so, when Chevy 305 pickups ran their vacuum advance from manifold vacuum, after the trucks aged, they'd get "doggy" in how they ran. The factory fix was a vacuum harness, two delay valves installed "backwards", in parallel, that replaced the normal single vacuum line going to the distributor vacuum advance. This kept the vacuum advance charged long enough for the engine to build rpm and the centrifugal advance to come into play. It worked great. Not that you would need two in parallel, but one upstream of the existing check valve might be appropriate and could be hidden from view. Might even find some at a salvage yard! NTX5467
  14. The whole deal with "variable rate" rear coil springs is that the normal load of the driver and possibly one passenger, typically, uses the closer-spaced center coils for a softer ride. When more load is there, the center coils compress and the outer wider-spaced coils supply the "beef" to handle the heavier load. This was common on Chevy 1/2 ton pickups, as our '69 has them. Sometimes, when the center coils compress, there is a noise they make, which can be lessened with a split-rubber hose added to those coils. Even when new, I suspect the ride with the stated load might not have been too much different, but not continually bottoming-out. So it's possible the factory coils have weakened and sagged some. Probably the front coils, too. Any replacement spring will possibly raise the ride height and look "too high" although it is correct. Investigate the Moog Spring catalog's spec section in the back, which will give you the rate of the springs. Not that it might mean much, but it can be a point of reference of sorts. You'll probably find "HD or A/C" for the front HD coils and "HD or Std" for the rear coils. Unless the rear coils were variable rate, stay with the normal rear springs. There's another thread, a few months ago, about sourcing coil springs for Buicks. Prices vary a lot! The advice on the lower control arm bushings is very good! Especially the part about not doing the final torque until they are supporting the vehicle's weight. I think I'd also do the upper control arm bushings, too, for good measure. ALSO, the rear track bar bushings! Heck, just do ALL of the rubber in the suspension, if you can get it all! Don't forget about tie rod ends, idler arm, and other front steering linkage. Might desire to do some of this "in waves" NTX5467
  15. Car Club Question

    In the model of a non-profit, chapter officers are "volunteer" and receive no compensation, other than verified expenses (when requested). Pretty much the way things tend to be. Most clubs have an elected newsletter editor, which can include the website administration. No compensation, other than reimbursement of expenses. Some clubs do pay somebody to perform these function, BUT it takes a strong financial situation to support such activities. One of my other involvements was referred to a lady who did an AACA chapter's newsletter. She came highly-recommended, but her reputed price was higher than seemed prudent for us to pursue. In earlier times, a lady was paid to do that organization's quarterly newsletter. That cost was saved when a new newsletter editor was elected who had a computer to do it on. She copied it at Kinkos for greatly-reduced costs. Many club have transitioned to electronic delivery of newsletters, which saves costs, but some still desire the printed page in their hands. I'm curious of why the interest in these areas? Willis Bell 20811