NTX5467

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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

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About NTX5467

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    Sr Mbr -- BCA 20811
  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. NTX5467

    To resonate or not?

    Perhaps, in the case of the '58 Buicks, with the "excesses" in other areas (chrome and number of chrome items in the grille) of the vehicle's design, IF "more Is better" and such increases the status of the luxury vehicle, then might the four resonators be something in that orientation, too? NTX5467
  2. NTX5467

    Modern a/c??

    Beemon, my "theory" is that almost all water pump impellers will cause some turbulence/foaming of the coolant as they "beat up" the fluid rather than encouraging a smooth flow. We also know that coolant with bubbles doesn't have the same heat absorption capacity as solid fluid. By the same token, it's an observation that the generally rougher surfaces of the block's water jacket can also encourage a certain amount of foaming, too, especially if casting flash is involved. Not quite like fluid running through a steel pipe. Might the heat transferred to the cylinder heat ("heat sink") be decreased by coating the exhaust ports with a ceramic coating, similar to what can be applied to piston crowns to decrease heat transfer into the piston itself? Additionally, just curious of the pump rpms at which the perceived cavitation take place? It COULD well be that all of this is figured into the system's capacity for fluid flow and heat dissipation to start with? Decreasing these factors might result in better cooling performance, but by what percentage? NTX5467
  3. NTX5467

    Modern a/c??

    Over the years, I've seen water pump impellers that had nicely-curved fins on them. Others just had a serrated surface around the edge, where the water moved. Still others had impellers that were of the same style as an alternator/generator fan, with folded, flat metal sections. As long as it can create a low pressure area that will move the coolant, by whatever shape, that's all that matters. They all seemed to work equally well for what they had to do, by observation. In the case where the factory a/c pump has fewer vanes, when compared to the non a/c pump, the fewer vanes works as the pulley drive ratio turns the fewer-vanes pump faster In the world of Chevy hot rod factory parts, many of them might also be "truck" parts. The a/c pulley on our '69 CST-10 350 pickup was the larger pulley, as the pickups usually had lower rear axle ratios, which turned the accessories faster. So, larger pulleys to keep the accessory rpms down. On the regular cars, they'd have the small a/c pulley as the rear axle ratios could be 2.73 or so, with the aim of a particular "target rpm" for best cooling at the lower engine rpms. Then, here came the '77 Z/28 option w/factory a/c. It had 3.42 gears with the automatic and 3.73s with the 4-speed . . . "pickup truck ratio territory", BUT as it was listed for the "performance oriented" Z/28, it automatically got the "high performance" tag put on it. Although it was a normal item for pickup trucks. Considering the generally lower gears which many cars tended to have in the '50s and earlier '60s (the era where 2-speed automatics were very prevalent, with smaller motors, needing "more gear" for good performance3), there were many "large pulleys" on engine accessory items, it seems. Moreso than later in the '60s when larger engines, 3-speed automatics, and "highway gears" came to be "normal". Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  4. NTX5467

    To resonate or not?

    Resonators used to be only on "luxury brand" vehicles. Maybe certain "everyday" cars, too. But back when mufflers regularly rusted out every so often, the resonators probably did, too. Short trips long enough to build condensate in the muffler and resonator, but not long enough for it to cook out of them, were the problem. Drill a small hole in the rear/lowest part of the muffler/resonator so the condensate will drain (no, it won't sound like an exhaust leak). Backpressure usually is not an issue at normal rpm/speeds. Where it will happen is toward the top of each gear at WOT, just before the automatic shift takes place. Otherwise, very little backpressure. On our '66 Newport, we opted for the "resonator eliminator" rear pipe. Made not significant difference in the sound of the exhaust. Other vehicles might be different. Basically, IF the basic muffler is reasonably quiet at cruise, that's really all you need to have. One of my uncles had a '65 Olds 88 2-dr hardtop. Most of the Olds exhausts back then were louder (outside and inside the car) than many other cars. A trait of Olds Power image? When I was running a "Test tube" on my '77 Camaro (with the cat back Z/28 exhaust under it), it was loud at cruise (all of about 2000rpm at 60mph. I wanted something quieter. I looked in the Walker Exhaust catalog I had. Seems the '71 Dodge Challenger R/T used a resonator that was under the rear seat area, plus two round mufflers at the rear of the car. The dimensions of the resonator fit what I needed to replace the test tube with. I got a catalytic converter "fit kit" and put the muffler under the car. Instant quiet, but still nice! When I looked at them before installation, they had the normal muffler oval shape for the case. The center pipe was "straight through" with the slits going into the case, rather than into the main air flow through the resonator. I wondered if it would quieten it very much, BUT it did. The two factory "mjufflers" were really the resonators used under the rear seat of the '69 Camaro dual exhaust cars, according to the Walker Exhaust catalog. I later put an aftermarket honeycomb monolith replacement converter under the car. So much of the sound issues can depend upon the basic design of the exhaust system, to aim for a particular "sound", PLUS the allow of the steel the pipe is made from. Personally, IF the resonator is near the rear of the system, deleting it might not make THAT much difference in the exhaust sound. NTX5467
  5. NTX5467

    To resonate or not?

    On the '90s GM cars, the "lost vacuum/default mode" for the hvac is "floor and defroster" vents. Even if the dash vents are selected. It's more common than you might suspect, even with the cruise on, but this is probably another reason the hvac actuators came to be electric stepper motors rather than vacuum diaphrams. Considering the power of the LT1 cars, no real need for that much WOT to get things done . . . unless you're grooving on the underhood symphony. NTX5467
  6. NTX5467

    Modern a/c??

    I suspect that a clean water jacket circuit and an efficient radiator are the two key things. Water pump flow needs to be good, too. Thanks for the picture. Take care, Willis
  7. NTX5467

    Modern a/c??

    Back in the '60s, I'd read of people traversing the western "arid areas" in the heat of summer, towing an overloaded trailer, across "ups and downs" in the terrain, in an older vehicle, that would overheat. Lots of "fixes", including removing the thermostat all together, for "more flow" through the radiator. What they heroically did got them through that rough spot, as if it was the automotive engineers that orchestrated their miseries. Never did hear what happened a month later when the rest of the system also had issues. There were also several coolant additives to help decrease overheating issues, back then. Many multi-colored containers with their promises in big letters. In the '50s, car designs were in transition from vehicles with inline engines (and styling/sheetmetal contours to match) into vehicles with V-type motors (with styling/sheetmetal to match). The inline engines had narrower front frame widths, which affected other architectural aspects of the front of vehicle engineering. Which also affected engine radiator widths and placements. Wider and more powerful engines generally happened before the body changes got fully updated to match. Factory and aftermarket a/c availability also tended to aggravate things related to cooling performance. Finding the best later model components to use for upgrades of the performance of earlier vehicles' cooling performance can take some doing to get the most optimized combination of old and new engineering orientations. Congrats when you find what works best for YOUR application! NTX5467
  8. NTX5467

    Modern a/c??

    Seems that everybody perceives the need for "high flow coolant", BUT seem to forget that the "dwell time" of the coolant inside of the radiator can be more important. If it moves too quickly, all of the heat that needs to be removed can't be optimally removed (going through too quickly). PLUS, there is/can be turbulence inside of the block and heads, as the coolant runs through them. Such turbulence is addressed when the engine is designed, to decrease "hot spots" caused by too much turbulence in certain areas around the cylinder bores or inside of the cylinder heads. Obviously, there is an optimum rate of flow, or flow spec window that the original engineers have to deal with. Pressurization might help decrease such flow issues, possibly? BUT, there are lots of areas which the coolant must bet into and/or around in the water jackets! Too much flow might make over-heating worse, with increased flow rates. Perhaps the additives to decrease the surface tension of the coolant mixture might be a better option? Of course, the value of a "clean" water jacket and an internally-clean radiator can't be forgotten about, either! Getting more air through the radiator can be important, too. Over the years, there have been multitudes of fans designed for a/c equipped cars that might work well with older systems where a fan clutch is being adapted, to replace the prior fixed-blade solid fan drive. Some are quieter than others, by observation. On some car body configuration, there just isn't very much room to alter the radiator from factory size specs, so getting a more modern radiator with higher efficiency is about the only real option in that area. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  9. NTX5467

    Modern a/c??

    In using a Sanden compressor, there are many different styles of "back castings" for them. Something like 25? ONE of them is a stock GM back, which will use a stock GM rear hose fitting for a particular GM car. There are MANY of these and some include mufflers. Find an a/c catalog which illustrates these fittings, even an ACDelco a/c book from the '80s can work. This way, plus how the hoses are configured and run, you can have something that's more "factory look" than not. Additionally, there is an aluminum "A-6" look-a-lilke compressor made by Denso (used on some Lexus applications?) that is a bolt-in replacement for a GM A-6 unit. Has a funky front clutch/pulley cover, but looks like the A-6 in every other way. About $300.00 range a few years ago, probably a little more now. More thoughts, NTX5467
  10. NTX5467

    Modern a/c??

    As for the heat intrusion from the "undercoated" housing, you might want to scrape some of that undercoating off and replace it with a layer of LizardSkim spray-on ceramic insulation/sound deadener. Then after that dries, put a thin coat of undercoat on top of it to maintain the "stock appearance"? IF you look at the insulation on those earlier cars and then compare it to a modern car, it's kind of like trying to cool a cardboard box in 100 degree weather. Adding the LizardSkin to the floor panels, using some bubble-wrap-type plastic for the door watershields (rather than the factory craft paper!), and glue a better bunch of jute to the inside of the roof, possibly with a foil barrier, put something behind the rear seat, that'll probably compensate for any coolness loss via the door weatherstrips. Modern vehicles are very well insulated so the a/c compressor can run less and cost less mpg while keeping things nice and comfortable on the inside. Back then, one of the best strategies to keep the interior cooler was tinted glass and a white top (or car). Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  11. NTX5467

    1956 Century - rough ride

    Property taxes typically are determined by property "appraised" value. Once developers discover "undervalued" areas and move in, property transaction prices increase and valuations increase for everybody, usually. In east Austin, TX, many people who are now on Social Security and widowed are seeing their valuations increase such that it's either "taxes or food/prescription drugs". A situation which has cycles and repeats in other areas, by observation. Those people in E Austin have been in the same houses since their kids were born, but the land value increases are the real issue. Progress? When Federal money decreases, then it's on "the State" to make up the difference. When the State money decreases, then it "trickles down" to the local citizenry's lap. Remember this the next time a federal candidate/rep talks about "decreasing taxes". If THEY don't get tax money, the locals will end up paying with increased taxes. f Doesn't matter if it's to pay for expanded fire/police coverage, expanded/new roads, schools, or paying for social programs that help decrease larger costs in later years for those involved/targeted. KEY thing is having people make decisions of how money's spent who KNOW what it takes to get something done and don't "kick the can down the road" to "somebody who knows what they're doing" (contractor/vendor/sub-contractor) who have little oversight for what they do. "Effective spending" should be the orientation rather than just "conservatism". These are my observations. Enjoy! NTX5467
  12. NTX5467

    New Scheme: second sway bar on a 55

    Perhaps a spring shop could bend up some (correct alloy) bar stock that would fit just inside the existing bar (to which it would be attached, mechanically), rather than using two bars mounted parallel to each other?
  13. Thanks for clarifying the height of the doors. Have FUN and welcome back! NTX5467
  14. NTX5467

    Mid-50's 12V starter relay

    What does CARQUEST (the brand mentioned) sell them for?
  15. "Pole barn"? Don't look like any "pole barn" I've ever seen. Looks MUCH nicer and better! 10' wide doors??!! Enjoy and keep Oswald happy! NTX5467