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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

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About NTX5467

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    Sr Mbr -- BCA 20811
  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. NTX5467

    1955 motor swap

    There have been many changes in the 3.6L from its first introduction. A cam phaser failure, which was finally tracked back to a poorly-installed paper gasket for the cam phasers' attachment to the engine, but it trashed the heads when it failed. Of course, that was then and no related issues in that areas since then. I know that we kept a LOT of heads and the stuff to build them completely in stock, for months, before GM finally decided to ship us assembled heads instead. Then it went down to that one gasket/seal. The 3.6L in the current Camaros is the 2nd Gen version, that was allegedly completely re-engineered. Still if one fails, still a few days out for the parts for the repair, which is my point. Whether new or old, if a failure results, you're going to either be "on the back of a wrecker" or "in a motel for a few nights". We know that the relative aerodynamics of a mid-'50s Buick is not the same as that of a current Camaro. That 30mpg EPA could easily drop to mid-20s in the older Buick, which is getting close to what I suspect a Buick 350, THM200-4R/THM700 trans, with self-learning EFI might achieve under similar cruise conditions. MANY things go into that mpg for the Camaro, too, which would require a bit of doing to duplicate on the Buick. Be that as it may . . . IF you're going to use almost any late model SOHC/DOHC V-8 or V-6, you will also need the later model automatics with the 4.50- low gear (6L90E or similar 8-speed automatic) as so many of the later engines have somewhat weak off-idle torque, up to about 2000rpm or so. That initial low gear gets them through that lower rpm range quickly, with the tightly-spaced upper gears keeps the engine rpm low during mild acceleration or going up hills . . . as if they don't have enough torque to pull them without a downshift, by observation. By comparison the GM LS late-model pickups with the 8-speed work flawlessly with very little throttle input. Much more off-idle torque and fewer downshifts on the road at 70mph, by observation, plus I've averaged 20mpg plus on several of them, in my normal freeway-centric driving with the cruise control. Which is probably ONE reason they can be so popular with the street machine people. By the same token, I ran many tanks of fuel through our '87 Silverado 5.7L V-8. 3.08 rear axle, P235/75R-15 radials, THM700 automatic, and 2bbl TBI pickup. Keeping cruising speed to 55-60mph, when the national speed limit was 55mph, which yielded similar 20mpg results. That was driving it like a carb, using the "slow and gentle" accelerations. Now that I know how to drive a EFI vehicle better, I might get even better results? In a somewhat blocky vehicle. Therefore, I stand by my Buick 350/OD automatic orientation as an upgrade from an earlier Nailhead. Not that a better-optimized Nailhead and a THM200-4R might not be such a bad deal either! NTX5467
  2. NTX5467

    1955 motor swap

    The problem with using something as Beemon mentions . . . would be finding a controller to run just the engine, rather than engine/trans/etc. GM Perf Parts has a stand-alone transmission controller for their "Street Rod" plug-n-play, with a 4L80E (I believe) transmission, which was over $2K the last I looked. Using something like the 3.6L DOHC High Feature V-6 might be neat, but there are LOTS of moving parts in that engine. The great fuel economy they can get on the highway depends upon ALL of the vehicle systems and sensors working together, many of which would not be needed on a street rod/street machine application. Not to mention the phenomenally good aerodynamics of the modern vehicles. BUT, if you have some trouble in a remote town, just because it's a current OEM engine doesn't mean a dealer will have parts on the shelf for it. They might still be one or two days "out", depending upon the stocking warehouse location. AND, they aren't "cheap to fix", either. More reality issues, to me. Nothing's impossible with enough time and money, it's just that danged cost-benefit analysis "thing" that might get in the way for some (including ME). Old-Tank has successfully proven that driving and enjoying his '55 Buicks is very possible in modern times. It can take a bit more work to a higher level of execution, but it CAN be done with a stock-spec Buick. Check out his Buick Restorers Internet presence. Enjoy! NTX5467
  3. NTX5467

    1955 motor swap

    No offense taken, at least for me. Just wanted to point out that the 455, although "modern", is still at least 40 years old at this time. Last year produced was '76. Which, plus the non-volume of parts requests for one at the auto supply stores, is not that much better than with your existing motor. The THM400, although "modern", was last used in about the late '80s, living on in 4L80E form for many years later. So, the "modern stuff" mentioned isn't all that "current" when you look at what's on the shelves at most auto supply stores. Even IF you found some parts in stock, it would mean they'd have been on the shelves for decades. To me, those are reality issues. No more, no less. While many who come into these forums are more concerned with keeping things as they were built, which I understand, myself and others also appreciate your desires "while on a trip", too. You might find a more receptive group for what you are considering in the "Modified" Forum, a few notches down the Buick AACA Forums list. I know that everybody tends to gravitate toward the "big motors", but for a normal car upgrade, a Buick 350 V-8 and a THM350 or THM200-4R or THM700 automatic would probably make more $$$$ and sense, in the long run. Not hard to put a HEI distributor in one that didn't come with it. Your choice of carburetor (2bbl or 4bbl)r or after-market self-learning EFI, too. Notice that I said "BUICK" 350, which is a totally different breed of Skyhawk than a Chevy 350! The transmission bell housing bolt patterns will need to match the BUICK or B-O-P bolt pattern, too. When it was new, the Buick Nailhead had many advanced design features, which made it a better motor than the beloved small block Chevy, but it also had a few things that made it a little less desirable at the same time. The cylinder heads, in particular, had to have enough narrowness for the exhaust manifolds to clear the chassis, for example. This necessitated the smaller valves and ports, which also had higher velocity for more torque in the mid-range, but limited ultimate top end horsepower. A torque motor, which the DynaFlow needed. The small block Chevy, being a physically smaller motor, was more prone to be able to be put "everywhere", by comparison, and had much better rpm and power output. Plus being lighter than the straight-6 it replaced! The middle'50s cars were still generally using body/chassis architecture which originated when the engines were all "inline", rather than V-shaped. This tends to explain the head-width issues I mentioned PLUS why the Chrysler Hemis had exhaust manifolds which had to hug the block before they attached to their under-car exhaust systems. Other than the issues of rear suspension, drive shaft, and such with any engine/trans swap, you'll need to have a good shop build the engine mounts to put the newer engine in your car. THAT can be expensive, just by itself. It's not a really "drop-in" situation, even for a Buick 455, although a 425 might be easier. As you and your car are still in the "getting acquainted" stage of things, do that FIRST before you consider doing anything to it. If it's been sitting a good while, there are some things (fuel line hoses and other related rubber items) which will need to be replaced with current-type rubber first. Plus other general "tune-up" items. Fluids, filters, and such, too. Learn about the car and what makes it what it is and why it's that way. There are MANY things to appreciate and learn about why it's one of GM's best products for its build time. Get it to the point that you'd feel safe in driving it long distances, too. This might take a year or two, possibly. Then start considering what might make it better. DynaFlows are allegedly supposed to leak oil, just like Harleys, it seems. BUT gasket technology and sealers have come a very long way since back then. There are a few techniques to keep the torque ball seal from leaking, too. So "leaks of old" can now be dealt with. Even some who claim "they all leak" or "they're supposed to leak" don't like getting a "Most Drips Award" at some car shows! Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  4. NTX5467

    1955 motor swap

    iRather than ask "the kid at ___________" about parts for your car, go to the auto supply's website and put in the same information. Be it O'Reilly's, AutoZone, etc. Then check www.rockauto.com and see what they have in their listings for whatever you're wondering about. As for that "cross country trip", there's always "Express Shipping", which might allow for a day or so of seeing the "local sights" where ever you might end up. For the money you'll spend on your upgrades, you might well end up in the same situation with a Buick 455. Save the money and invest in a few "trunk box parts" to make sure they are correct BEFORE you leave. OR wait to see what you might end up needing and pay the express shipping to where you're at. Cheaper than the upgrades you mentioned. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  5. NTX5467


    Howdy -- In looking for some carburetor "things", in another forum, I happened upon what might be a good source of information and carb parts. www.walkerproducts.com/wp-content/catalogs/carburetor/vy-model/carter.pdf When downloaded, it starts with the AFB/AVS models. LIstings of general applications for each carb type. An illustrations like would be in a carb kit, then "parts" for the carb in question, WITH illustrations of same. Goes back into the earlier Carter 1bbls, 2bbls, and 4bbls I've only read of, not seen before. Going back to the main www.walkerproducts.com website, it was obvious they had parts for carbs other than just Carters! Very Interesting! ONLY thing is that in the illustrations, they do have their part numbers for each item, BUT no mention of the specific application of the item. So you'll have to match what you need, visually, rather than havine a catalog application for each item illustrated. Enjoy! NTX5467
  6. NTX5467

    Turnsignal wiring 1964 Buick Wildcat

    Never a good idea to let the wheel spring upward when the tilt lever is pulled! Deploy the lever with one hand on the wheel to control it's movement. EVEN on the '70s columns, too! The only thing to limit the movement are metallic pot metal items, no rubber bumpers. The internal spring is quite strong. Eventually, something deforms and later breaks. Treat them "nicely"! NTX5467
  7. NTX5467

    1964 Buick Rear Control Arm Bushing

    When you do get the replacement items, use only "just snug" when you put it all together. Then do the final torque with the car sitting on the ground, after possibly a few bounces to ensure there is no residual "tension" on the rubber. THEN do the final torque of the fasteners. This keeps the rubber in a more neutral position, rather than being pre-loaded/twisted as the car sits on the ground, making things last longer. Do this with ANY suspension-related rubber bushing/insulator which twists as one of its normal function. NTX5467
  8. NTX5467

    Wanted...1979 Park Ave mirror

    There might possibly be some "model year range" in that mirror's use. Earlier ones might not have the convex feature, though, but later ones probably would. NTX5467
  9. NTX5467

    2004R to nailhead adaptor

    Check out the Riviera Forum for information on swapping a THM200-4R into '60s Rivieras. I believe there are several threads on that from several years ago. NTX5467
  10. NTX5467

    700R4 to nailhead hookup

    Check out the Riviera Forum for use of THM200-4R automatics. That trans, when beefed-up, has seemed to become the darling of the street rod/muscle car people. Takes less power to run than the THM700, bur has a little more reasonable low gear ratio, so not quite so big of a gap between 1st and 2nd, ratio-wise. Plus, as you'll probably discover, it's been done lots of times in the '60s' Rivs. NTX5467
  11. NTX5467

    Looking for vacuum valve

    The rotary style of "switch" was used for many years, from the middle '60s or so. Earlier ones were pot metal with the later ones being plastic. The side with the vacuum supply rotates against the outlet side, all held together by a wide clip. Yours' should be the plastic version. Once the control head is removed, I suspect you can disassemble the item and check for wear, which might be a simple "wear" issue that can be repaired, cleaned, or similar. Find an AC/Delco (auto supply) catalog, or similar, which is an "Illustrated listing" of each item and what it fits. You'll be surprised at what has been used and where! If the orig item can't be made to work, you might discover another one with a different mounting tang, that might be modified to work. Many of these valves had common items, but with different mounts. Just as blower motor switches were common, until you got to the lever and mounting flanges. I presume you've already checked for vacuum at the end of the affected vacuum line and that the actuator responds to vacuum? Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  12. NTX5467

    Loosing another piece of Buick history

    THANKS to all that helped make this happen! NTX5467
  13. NTX5467

    50,000 miles is the car worn out ?

    Worn out at 50K miles??? All things considered, put a Cloyes double-roller timing chain in it and drive it another 150K miles. At this time, you're only 50001 miles from "new again". What would you buy to replace it? What ever you get will need to be replaced later on, anyway. Cycle repeat? NTX5467
  14. Another approach that was used by '67 Chevy V-8s and the items should be in repro. EASY to do, too. This is how it attaches on a small block Chevy. Remove the road draft tube. In it's place there is a cone-shaped metal item which has a 5/16" bolt (about 3.5" long) that goes through it to the road rube's mount. On this metal item, there's a nipple for a hose to connect to a pcv valve that attaches to the rear of the carb. Needs a vac port on the carb that goes to manifold vacuum, below the throttle plates. It all mounts horizontally and is pretty much incognito. This preceded the valve cover pcv valve location. One issue might be, with a carb not calibrated for such, is that you might need to close the throttle plates a bit to compensate for the "calibrated vacuum leak" the pcv valve will have. Most of the pcv valves have the same flow rates, so getting one with the correct elbow on the top, or a straight nipple, can be more important. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  15. NTX5467

    Uh oh...what have I done...again?

    Less humidity in DFW, same "snow flying" situation. NTX5467