NTX5467

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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

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About NTX5467

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    Sr Mbr -- BCA 20811
  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. Original Delco Shock PN & Catalog Numbers

    In the 1980s, a friend who had an alighment shop, and who had a following in the local "foreign car" (usually European variations) received a Peugot sedan that needed new shocks on it. We used to have a Peugot dealer back then, but their prices were very high, so Randy went to a local motorcycle shop and got some "fork oil", of which he had several viscosities to chose from. He got one, but it turned out to be too light, so he got the next-thicker one. It worked very good. Drained the old oil, put new oil in them, as they were designed for such, I believe. I believe there are some archived comments on the '55 and back Buicks' shock absorbers and "fork oil", via Old-Tank, or possibly on his Buick Restorer website. I believe that Chevy used the spiral shocks until about '61 or so, as evidenced from some of their sales brochures of the time. I believe the "trick" to the shock/fork oil would be to find a multi-vis oil or one of the newer synthetic oils. Any links for the "rebuilder"? NTX5467
  2. Watch cars get destroyed by wrecking ball

    PAINTBALL!! "Honey, what are all of those colored spots on the back of your ______________?" "Don't know! I did notice some colored splashes on the rear window, though." NTX5467
  3. Original Delco Shock PN & Catalog Numbers

    I would suspect the desire for the orig OEM numbers would be "to chase" them at swap meets and such, for a restoration project? As for part numbers, the ONLY shocks which will provide the same performance characteristics as the OEM Production items would be the GM/Buick Parts Catalog part numbers, as "replacement for production parts". These items might well have been produced by Delco, BUT they were not the same items which Delco sold their THEIR sales networks, which were usually auto supplies and such. The OEM production shocks would have been subject to the pricing whims of GM's financial people, whereas those items sold through the auto supply networks would have been more competitive against Monroe, Gabriel, and such . . . which probably generated some different valving specs at the same time. Up into the middle 1970s, Delco had their 1" bore "economy" shock, then came their 1 3/16" bore "HD" shocks. It was not until the later 1990s that we started to see both Delco part numbers AND GM part numbers on the boxes, as the two lines were merged. It was alleged that the Delco part number was a "GM Engineering part number", as the normal GM Parts part numbers were all "numbers" of 6-8 digits. Additionally, IF Buick had needed a less expensive shock for the '57 Specials, they could have done that, with the heavier Roadmasters getting their own unique shock part number. In the "aftermarket" or "Delco-specific" shock, they could have put all of the '57 Buicks under ONE part number, with the 1" bore and 1 3/16" bore being similar in coverage, but in "std" and "HD", or "Load-Leveler" variations. Using this as an example of how things usually worked, back then. Back then, Monroe was considered the premier "replacement" shock absorber brand. Tie-ins with the Indy 500 race cars, too. In the Iacocca book, it mentions that when he was a younger employee at Ford (circa mid-50s), he went to a pricing session for the next-year's cars. They opted to use the shocks which cost about $1.50; rather than the ones which cost $2.75 each. He was concerned about that. It was later explained that the $1.50 shocks would work fine for about 12K miles (a year's average driving, back then). Then, when the owner wanted something better, he'd go to the Ford dealer and get the Rotunda (Ford's Delco equivalent, back then) shocks at a little higher price. This generated money and business for the dealer network and the customer was happy enough with his Ford to buy another one a few years later. The customer ended up with the better shocks (Iacocca favored, at that time), but the factory didn't have to pay for them. The dealer made money, the customer got an "upgraded" shock, and everybody was happy. Back then, Monroe shock advertising stated that if your new car had over 15K miles on it, it needed new shocks . . . new Monroe shocks . . . for the best ride, handling, comfort, and safety. I hope this helps explain how things were, back then. NTX5467
  4. Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    The annular discharge venturis were first used by Holley on their drag race oriented 750cfm 4bbls, about 30 years ago. Not new tech by any means. It made more power than the normal venturis, but apparently that's all they were worried about back then. Of course, the Edelbrock vid makes it look much better, which it can be. Seems like there was ONE brand of add-on self-learn EFI that had the injector discharge below the throttle plate? Using the voltage bias and/or an oil pressure switch/timer could inhibit starter engagement when the engine is running. Those inhibit situations have been in place on some vehicles for some time. In the later '70s, oil pressure switches were used to power electric chokes on some vehicles, plus to turn off electric fuel pumps in the case of vehicle wrecks and such . . . ignition switch "on", engine stopped. Several ways to do that starter inhibit switch. We've had electric power steering for a good while now, OEM. First was the Malibu re-design about 7+ years now. Full size pickups since about 2014. MUCH more reliable now with the earlier quirks now gone. A much better deal than the earlier MagnaSteer power steering racks. Using magnetic resistance for boost and "feel" so the same basic rack could be used on Corvettes and Impalas ... provided the magnets could change quick enough. Take care, NTX5467
  5. Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    The issue with exhaust manifold cracking, at least on Chevy V-8s, was that people tried to keep the retention bolts/nuts too tight that the manifold couldn't flex with hot/cold expansions. Eventually, cracking would happen. When they started slicing the metal between the ports on the 454s, that stopped that issue cold! But even the stainless steel manifolds had a flex joint in them. Pontiac and Cadillac V-8s had cracking issues, too, from "hot spots". The manifold needs to "slide" on the cylinder head mounting surface. Chevy used "heat washers" under the bolt heads and "French Locks" under that, to keep the bolts from backing out too much. When people put lock washers under those bolts, rather than the thicker flat washers, that was a sure-fire way to make the manifolds crack, by observation. Other than the VickyBlue or Borgeson upgrades, using a middle '60s+ GM 800 power steering box would be good. Then possibly a matching pitman arm and linkage to the spindles? These boxes are vary rebuildable and were used up into the 1990s or so. Many racers used to use the Vega steering gear for its lighter weight and smaller size. GM also had a really neat little gearbox on some of the later 1980s 4WD pickups (only!). Key thing is that with all of the variations of the GM800 box, there might be one that would fit better than some of the aftermarket items and use later-model linkage. Adding a later "street rod" steering column with electric power steering could be doable, too. I fully understand the orientation of "keeping things original", but I ALSO know that in the middle-earlier 1950s, when that car was being designed, the vehicle engineering world was in a massive degree of "flux". As soon as one model year's parts were designed, the better ones for the next model year's cars were being finalized. This went on until about the 1965 model year, when so many of the "modern" systems came online and were far better than what came before them. In many ways, Old-Tank has many of these things finessed and such that they are not the real issues they were in prior times, by observation. But his tolerance for many of these things might not be shared by people used to "modern" vehicles. Be that as it may. Point ignitions are fine as long as the breaker can is "in spec" and each of the lobes is the same as the rest of them . . . meaning that point gap will be the same for all of them, which makes the dwell reading/coil energizing-firing the same for all cylinders, as it is for an electronic system. THEN keep point grease on the rubbing block! The "gas pedal start" function kind of fit the character of some flamboyant Buick owners, back then. But the GM pickups had a much simpler system, "analog". I think I've mentioned using a THM400 kickdown switch to activate a starter relay to run the starter, much earlier-on. Might now be some way to use voltage bias to run a "start/no-start" switch/relay arrangement. As for "tunes", check out the Aurora Designs websight. Add-in chips to run many things of the factory radio! All mounted within the existing radio chassis. What made "old cars" attractive to many was the way they feel in operation and driving. Each GM division was a little different, but similar. Just as Fords and Chryslers had their own unique feel, sound, sensory inputs, too. Compared to modern vehicles where everything's been dumbed-down to be more uniform between the OEMs, with performance standards raised at the same time. To me, there are some things on the mid-50s Buicks that seem to be waaaay over-engineered and larger than similar things on other brands of cars, BUT they still tend to have the same issues as the other cars did, from what I've observed. Radiators is one such area, for example. Some of these things had to do with the transition from narrow engine bays to the later wider ones, which affected how the underhood area was "packaged" with power brakes, a/c and hvac systems, etc. FWIW, Edelbrock has a new AVS2 650 cfm elec choke carb out. The distinction of this version is annular discharge primary venturis. On sale at Summitt, now. Hope you're finals go well! How'd y'all come out on your intake manifold project? Happy Holidays! NTX5467
  6. The Last 1983 Buick Century

    That series of Century were neat-looking cars. Nice lines for their size. The interiors were nice, but GM was using some weird plastic back then, on the interior surfaces and steering wheel horn pads, by observation. SuperGlue would not stick to it, if it might crack! Powertrain technology was still much evolving back then. GM went with the "lower cost" variations, it seemed, but they had decent durability, it seemed. Spark plug accessibility on ANY of the GM V-6s requires one of two things, or both. Disengage the "dog bone" front torque straps, then use a small "come-along" to rotate the motor for better accessibility to the rear cylinder head. Then lay across the motor to get to them. Just the way the transverse V-6s tend to be . . . V-6 AND V-8. Good deal that they went to platinum and later to iridium spark plugs so the change interval is well past 100K miles! The Turbo125 automatic tended to have an issue with the torque converter clutch not unlocking as the car slowed to a stop. A simple fix with a new lockup switch, inside the transaxle. Easy to change, but messy. These were decent cars, but not as good as the later variations, by observation. IF the body is in good shape, the powertrain is decent, then it might work for somebody. But even with the low miles, there are still some things which are still near their failure/replacement "use age". And other things which the physical age is important, so don't expect it to be as if it was two years old with low miles. Possibly reliable and trouble-free, but there's still going to be some work needing to be done, no matter what. NTX5467
  7. TV, A BIT OFF TOPIC

    Somewhere, I saw a deal of Jay in his early days. Dark curly hair, height/weight proportionate, flared pants with that LONG center crease that was out past the toes of his shoes. LONG time ago? His "suit" was a beige-white color, too. She told the story of how she got the gig of the comedy show initially. I came to appreciate many of the people on there years later, but didn't think too much of it when it was on initially. Phyllis Diller was another one back then, too. Both fantastic ladies! NTX5467
  8. Bargains

    '57 Ford . . . single headlight. Guess they were parking the good stuff back closer to the sales office? So they could keep a better eye on them? NTX5467
  9. 99 century wipers

    Adjusted? Everything's "click and click" rather than adjustable. Has her car been subject to ice or snow so far, this year? Reason I ask is that it could be that one of the wiper blades might have been stuck to the windshield, but the other one didn't. The blade is designed to be the sacrificial part of that mechanism. The splined end is kind of oval so it doesn't engage all of the splines on the stub shaft of the transmission part. So, if you remove the blade from the splined shaft and see that it has smooth areas in the interface socket, that's what has happened. No fix other than a new blade/wiper arm. Is there "slack" in the two blades' otherwise perfectly synchronized action? That would probably be the arms which attach to the wiper motor. Sometimes, they are available individually, other times, it's the whole linkage assembly w/stub shafts. There could be some method to get the transmission arm assy attached to the wiper motor 'output" correctly? NTX5467
  10. Engine Stats

    The OEM HUD windshields have a special "dull" spot where the projector shines on the glass, for best resolution. Would be easy to do an aux mount for the phone, though. What does it take to get the sensors "talking"? Just curious. Demos? NTX5467
  11. Car Country Salvage Yard

    Leaving the windows slightly rolled down, also lets trapped moisture leave when the temps heat up. Also supposed to keep the laminated glass from getting white on the edges? Leaving the hood up in the garage is like an open invitation to "work on me!", from the car's "voice". IF the hood is closed, then it can become a storage shelf, by observation. Items placed on it then can get slid around, resulting in fine scratches in the paint. Open hoods are best. NTX5467
  12. HOW TO CLEAR YEAR OF MFG. PLATES IN CA .

    For the record, when TX was on annual plate replacement, the letter series indicated which county/region the plates were issued from, starting from the state capitol Austin, TX and working outward. If you happened to see a plate that was more like "AAA" than "AXJ", for example, out of the central TX area (as in Travis County especially, it probably was some "administrative" vehicle of the state (incl unmarked law enforcement vehicles, if it happened to look like a pursuit vehicle, Plymouth Fury or Ford Galaxie). When we went to yearly stickers on the plates, that little bit of trivia ended. NTX54676
  13. Best adhesive for late 70's/80's emblems

    You might get a string of small piano wire to cut the existing molding tape's "foam", between the emblem and the woodgrain. Kind of like tooth flossing. Then you can work on the residual foam as you desire. There's some type of "remover head" you can use with an electric drill, for this purpose, but I think it might be best to use low/moderate heat and rub the rest of the tape off manually. It'll probably take a while. Get a picture of the emblem location first, though! NTX5467
  14. HOW TO CLEAR YEAR OF MFG. PLATES IN CA .

    Would their "master records" reflect that plate set's history and the sale to an out-of-state buyer? Just curious. NTX5467
  15. Car Country Salvage Yard

    (working clock?? 403 and Class IV hitch--from my experience, that 403 would be doing good to pull the extra weight of the hitch itself, much less anything hooked to the hitch, too) Looks like lots of once-fine cars! Interesting how well some of the fabrics held up for their location and age! Always neat to find these places. To remember the cars when they were new. Nice stress relief . . . until some resident critters might appear. Enjoy! NTX5467