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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

NTX5467 had the most liked content!

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About NTX5467

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    Sr Mbr -- BCA 20811
  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. (Wasn't that car built when all of those "special carburetors" were floating around, with a few sneaking out to the assembly line????) 120mph in that vintage of Buick. Must 'uv been "hitting the high spots" at that speed. Expensive "re-entry" expense. NTX5467
  2. Cannot find water pump lube and anti-rust additive

    The water pump shaft bearings are outside of the coolant area, behind at least one seal, I believe. "Oil" stops "rust", usually. Perhaps that's the reason for "lube"? I suspect that "foam" is more a function of the coolant's make-up than not. Reason I say that is that back in the later 1960s, the service station we used was run by a former dealership mechanic we'd followed to each service station he'd run/owned. One afternoon, a TX DPS car was brought by for him to look at. The hood was up and I saw a "contraption" with a glass sight window on it, in the radiator hose. He said that was so they could see what the coolant level was without taking the cap off. He laughed and said one year, they bought a certain brand of (very inexpensive) antifreeze and all it would do was foam. I shook my head as I knew these cars had to be dependable in all manner of situations, which foamed coolant would not help happen. I suspect that an impeller-style water pump will generate less foam in the coolant than other styles of pumps. NTX5467
  3. Cannot find water pump lube and anti-rust additive

    I'm thinking the older style Bars Leak additive has a water pump lube function, due to its soluable oil composition? I think it's still around. Maybe even something in Prestone? NTX5467
  4. 1957 Dynaflow Trans into a 1958 Buick

    What about floorpan clearance? In "the trans hump" area and rearward? Ed, where can the non-condensed version of your noted text be found? A chronicle of what changes were made when? Thanks, NTX5467
  5. Straight 8 top speed

    Seems like the late Roger Huntington had some methods to determine wind resistance by using "coast down" time/distance to better fine tune the acceleration results? Using a mercury column device suction-cupped to the windshield, to determine acceleration G-forces and such. Then used it to determine negative acceleration from braking tests. Purely "analog" in the middle and earlier 1960s "instrumented testing". MOTOR TREND and others had their "bicycle wheel" speedometers and stop watches for timed acceleration testing and brake tests. Huntington measured the "G-forces" of the brake system in his stopping tests, plus distance. Looking at the performance testing graphs of acceleration of those older road tests, it was easy to see which combinations had "power" and those that had power via gearing than engine power per se. If the car had a low power/weight ratio, "deep" rear axle ratio gearing, and/or very high power, the speed/time graph had a much more vertical ascent than a normal car which was a much smoother curve that eventually flattened out at the top. Similarly, 3-speed automatics (vs 2-speed automatics) and 4-speed manuals usually had quicker rises to the upper speeds. "If it won't go, gear it" Back then, most cars needed more powerful engines to push the air out of the way. In some cases, it got out of the way on its own (seeing what was coming toward it!). "Aerodynamics" was something for airplanes flying faster on existing fuel supplies and helping decrease "wind rush" on automobiles. NTX5467
  6. Straight 8 top speed

    Might these "power" figures be "at the road surface" rather than "flywheel horsepower"? In that case, add about 15% to the power figures quoted. NTX5467
  7. Straight 8 top speed

    dMight it be the water pump "not keeping up" or too much turbulence in the water jackets or "pump cavitation"? OR . . . . yet-unheard mild detonation/lean mixture? Typically, each engine/vehicle combination has its own "comfort-range" speed. In the middle '60s it was something like 75% of peak power rpm. In other cases, it was just past the peak in the torque curve rpm. It can vary with carb/exhaust configuration, too. Some engines, by observation, sound "wound-out" over 3500rpm, with a power peak rpm of about 4500rpm or higher. Just depends. Some run pretty easy up to a point, then it takes more throttle for each increment increase in speed. Aero issues combined with power output, I suspect. What ever feels BEST for you and your vehicle! NTX5467
  8. Phun W/Nailheads

    My apologies for continuing the swapping of DF parts as I did. My orientations were more toward swapping "open driveshaft" items in the place of "closed driveshaft" items. Might not be the end of the trans you were interested in, though. NTX5467
  9. Non- Buick. Restoration shop under investigation

    Back in the later '70s, we had a customer who did his own work. Paint, body, installed upholstery, and some mechanical stuff. He was a "car guy" from his earlier days, when you did your own stuff as you couldn't afford to pay somebody to do it. So these things didn't really surprise me. He had a very good day job in the helicopter plant, so there was funding for his projects. NONE happened in weeks, as he worked in his spare time. One afternoon, another "collector" came by. They got to talking and it seems the other guy had just painted a car he had. After he left, I asked "Why?" Seems he'd paid two different guys to paint it. Neither one did a good job and wanted high prices. So, he bought the spray equipment and learned to do his own painting. That was a different time why nobody worried about if you had a shop or not, although that might affect discounts and such. And, they were shooting acrylic lacquer with no spray booth, per se. The problem with running a "restoration shop" is cash flow and having sufficient financing of the enterprise to be able to do turn-key jobs at reasonable prices. It's far too easy for a shop to get a lot of time and money tied-up in a customer's car to find out that the spouse is divorcing him, or similar. So the payments necessarily stop, as does any remaining work. Time progresses, no matter what. It seems that many of the shops with "longevity" are near metro areas, but not IN the metro area. That translates into lower operating overhead and probably more of a "buy-in" to do the right thing and have a very good outcome in the work, by observation. The problem can be in getting into the network to find out about these shops! By observation, it seems that "horror stories" of years of sequential payments with little to show for it tend to surface every so often. It seems that somebody purchases an "old car" as it would be neat to have one. Then they seek to "get it restored". Not having any real expertise about cars (other than they know they need gas, oil, and air in the tires) they look in the phone book for "restoration". They find a reputable shop, get the estimate, pick themselves up off the pavement, and look elsewhere. It's that "elsewhere" that gets them in trouble, by observation. Problem is that they don't know how to judge a good one from a bad one. It's hard to dig out from the hole they've gotten themselves into, also. Disassembled car, partial work done, missing parts, etc. NOT the desired outcome they'd been wanting. Or the reputable shop that bills "straight labor by the hour", which is always hard to confirm if one isn't there to watch it happening. Sky-high bills result. Lots of "words", but the bill has to be paid if the owner wants the car back. To me, it appears that when "restoration" is undertaken, if it's being done by a "restoration shop", the price increases significantly. In comparison, similar work at a normal body shop, upholstery shop, mechanical shop can result in similar quality work at more reasonable prices. IF the restoration shop owner sublets the work, prices increase significantly, too, as all they are doing is brokering the work to other shops. BUT if the car owner wants a broker/contractor to manage the job, rather than a hands-on shop owner, there is a price to be paid for such. Everything has a price on it, period. The more that "others" and "others working for others" are involved, the ultimate price to get the car done increases a good bit. EACH "finger in the pie" is a "profit center" for them. That's just "business". And in many cases, it can take years to get things done, even if you are financially-independent, work for yourself, are networked to find where to get things done, and there are no real issues to deal with. Not 5 years, but sometimes more like 1.5 years. Be an informed shopper! NTX5467
  10. 1952 Carter WCFB...setting idle...

    If it's got a bog off-idle, it can be because the throttle blades are too far open, physically, at your lowest obtainable idle speed. As things are now. Or it could be the accelerator pump not working. You might need to remove the carb from the engine, empty the gas out into a drain pan, then invert the carb and see just how tight the throttle plates "seal" the throttle bore with the idle speed screw backed all the way out. The vertical slot near the idle screw "hole" in the throttle body, the transition port, should have about .040" of it below the throttle plates at base idle. If more, it can cause a bog coming off-idle. Please let us know what you find. NTX5467
  11. Is this a worthy car?

    To me, there's a difference between "daily driver" and "occasional driver". DD is treating it like a Toyota (or similar) that is "replaceable" at any time with something similar. OD would be for nice days, sunny days, local tours, national meets, and such. Spends non-driving times in a sturdy structure, hopefully climate controlled. To, as I mentioned, "Protect the investment". I'll concur on the build quality. Some Cadillacs I've seen, used at the time, were rattling and junky feeling. Slam the driver's door and the lh seat back shook, etc. Nothing some tightened fasteners wouldn't fix. Then I saw others with elderly owners that were still tight and quiet. Kind of like a person buying a Porsche and treating it like a VW, so to speak. No need to turn this into a Gas Monkey Garage-type deal. Bought for $________. Spent $______ Sold for $______ PROFIT $$$$$$$$. On one of the early real estate $$$$ shows, about 10 years ago, one trick to more profit was to inflate the price of the house. It might be worth $40K. Do a little clean-up and paint. List it for $60K. "Everybody wants to live in a higher-priced house", they claimed. The house sells quickly. The new owner brags about how nice the house it and admits what they paid for it. Their friends were reportedly impressed with what they got and the price they paid for it, the "trainers" claimed. By the time they sell it again, it'll be worth at least what they paid for it, possibly more, all things considered. Kind of like "Be bold and ask for that higher price". If they negatively react, then go from there. NTX5467
  12. Woodgraining - Grain-It Technologies

    Another curious question . . . . How'd the factory (in this case, Fisher Body) do it on the assembly line? Thanks, NTX5467
  13. Is this a worthy car?

    You might start at $21995.00 and "low dollar" (if necessary) at $17995.00. Not knowing what the acquisition cost might be. To me, that car has more road presence than any Cadillac! Formal look, but not too much. 455s were somewhat thirsty, but if somebody has the means to purchase the car AND have an appropriate place to park it AND protect their investment, then 13mpg on the road might not matter that much. It should NOT ben an "everyday driver"! That is one car that can make almost anybody who might be behind the wheel "elevated in status" and "look successful". In that respect alone, it should be worth MORE than a Cadillac! NTX5467
  14. Woodgraining - Grain-It Technologies

    As a point of curiosity, were the different patterns of woodgrain related to the model series of the vehicle in a particular model year? Was one pattern perceived as being more upscale than another one? Thanks, NTX5467
  15. Woodgraining - Grain-It Technologies

    Rather than paint, some of the "body wrap" material can probably be used to manufacture what ever type of woodgrain design you might desire, I suspect. Probably not unlike adapting the water slide decal photography techniques in another thread a few year ago (1920s Pontiac speedometer restoration). Maybe even use the "wrap" technology to reproduce an existing woodgrain design, possibly correcting the end result for sun fade and such? NTX5467