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Jim last won the day on October 29 2015

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About Jim

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  1. I have one NOS center cap still in the original box for $ 75. I think it would look very nice on a Reatta. It is for a '51-54 Henry J but might fit. ( ever try and take a picture of a shiny object without getting unwanted reflections? I do have my Vikings shirt on though. ) Kingsley has retired from the parts business and I have his stock of convertible visor clips they are perfect reproductions and I have them in all colors.
  2. I would strongly suggest this topic stick to center caps. A few years ago the whole Reatta forum was almost removed permanently because of personal attacks. Hopefully this will be the last post in this thread that is not center cap related.
  3. unusual Reatta

    Last summer I purchased a blue '89 Reatta as a parts car but it was so nice it in now my daily driver. What makes this car unusual is it has 384,000 miles on it but it looks like it has maybe 84,000 miles. The 16 way seats are very nice The door panels are very nice The steering wheel is very nice. Original floor mats in good condtion covers on door strap pulls Original headlight switch never apart and works good ABS works AC works Shift light works Front license plate holder like new CRT works 2 original remotes that work and look nice Rubber around windshield looks like new but the glass is sort of sandblasted so I know it is the original windshield I did replace the cam sensor magnet with the JB weld method and that works good now. The mileage is correct as the vin on the dash matches the vin displayed on the CRT
  4. 1990 Convertible Buick Reatta Help please

    I have the sun visor clips available for the convertibles and have then in all colors.
  5. Need Jim Finn's email address

    Thanks for posting above but there is no dot between the S and the 60 reattas60@gmail.com Rich did get a hold of me but his connector is different than any I have seen. The Reattas used a connector with some small tabs so the connector could only go in one way. Jim
  6. 1989 dash not dimming at night

    Like any other part they can wear out. I have tested good sensors available and can be reached at reattas60@gmail.com
  7. Power Window Switches / Complete WTB

    I have both parts and can be reached at reattas60@gmail.com
  8. I recently noticed some extremely high prices for '90 Reatta and '90-93 Riviera headlight switches. For years I have had a rebuild service for these switches and sell the '90 switches for $ 85 exchange. I can be reached at reattas60@gmail.com
  9. The cars are about 70 miles South of Duluth near Sandstone MN Not mine
  10. I have available some tested good used headlight switches for your '90 Reatta. I also have tested good used '91 switches available. These are also the same as '90-93 Riviera. The headlight switches for the '90 Reattas are one of a kind as the '91 Reattas used a slightly different switch with no fog button and instead a twilight sentinel feature. There is no need to pay high prices for a replacement as I sell these switches for $ 75 exchange. I disassemble the switches, clean all parts and replace any worn or bad parts. I then reassemble them with nice appearing "lights" buttons and the correct knob on the slider and then test them in my personal Reatta.
  11. Spare Brake Accumulators

    Regardless of how old an accumulator is the important think is how good it is. Procedure for testing an accumulator. Turn on the key and have the radio and anything else off that makes noise. Wait for the red and yellow lights to go out and a few seconds later you will hear the pump stop running. Rapidly pump the brake pedal about 4 times and see it the red light comes on. If it does, wait for the pump to build up pressure again and the light will go out. Wait again for the pump to stop running and then pump the brake pedal 3 times to see if the red light comes on. The purpose here is to see how many pumps it takes to get the red light to come on. The higher the number the better the accumulator. A new one will be about 7 pumps and a shot one would be one pump. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.11.59/2063 - Release Date: 4/16/2009 4:38 PM
  12. Thank you. Each time I pass through Des Moines I also stop at the u pick yard. I will be traveling later this month to the Charlotte Auto Fair and plan on stopping at several along the way.
  13. For years I have had a rebuild service for the headlight switches and I have kept my price, I believe, fairly low at $ 75 exchange. Recently I raised the price to $ 85 because I am very low on the little black knob on the end of the slider and nice appearing "lights" buttons. These parts were also used on the '90-91 Reattas and the '90-93 Rivieras. I would like to purchase if anyone has any extras, any '91 Reatta or '90-93 switches for these parts. They are the same. I cannot pay too much for them as any money I invest in parts will have to be then applied to the rebuild price and as always I try and keep my parts prices low.
  14. Brake line

    I cannot tell you off hand the size of the lines but if you are planning on replacing the lines with bulk line and make your own bends then I would simply cut off a portion of the line and take it to the auto parts store. Cut off the line less than an inch from the fittings and then you can use a socket to remove the fitting and not have to worry about the tubing wrench slipping. After removing the fitting, clean them up a little and reuse them. Over the years I have noticed that some of the fitting are not a size readily available at auto parts stores so I reuse mine and with a double flaring tool you can redo the whole car pretty cheaply. If you want I can send you some pieces of line so you will have them ahead of time and also i apologize for forgetting to get back to you about the fenders. Will do so later today. Jim
  15. there has to be a better way

    The struts are actually pretty easy to change. I use two screwdrivers. One medium and one small. I take the small screw driver and work one of the sides of the spring steel clip over the stud end and then holding the strut towards the engine compartment, use the larger screw driver behind the strut and with a little pressure and a wiggle the strut will pop right off the cone shaped stud.