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Giorgio Ancona

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  1. Bought a gauge and installed it , fuel pressure is between 5 PSI at idle and 4 to 4,5 psi over idle , I removed the carb again and found the float conatminated by fuel and bought a new float. The engine is running slightly rough and I am still in trouble shooting . I tried to adjust the timing .As per shop manual it should got three timing marks ( The first one is 0 degrees,second is 3 degrees,third one is 5 degrees) but I ‘ve got 2 marks only . The 287 engine has to be 5° BTDC which is the right mark? Is the TDC mark missing or why are there two marks only?
  2. The problem comes again and I checked that it got fuel and ignition but it won't start , the igniton switch is replaced but the problem is still present. It runs and during drive it shuts down than the truck rolls and sometimes it starts again sometimes I have to wait for 5- 20 minutes. It seems like the carb is out of fuel but through the fuel filter it is visible that the mechanical fuel pump is working and fills the carb. Some day the car runs over 50 miles without any problem and sometimes it shuts down after 5 miles driving.Yesterday it was about 27 degrees centigrade and the engine shut off after a few miles . The igniter plugs look like they are a little bit rich running but I don't think that causes the problem. Its really strange what happens and I don't know how to trouble shoot this problem .
  3. Thanks for your reply , I ordered a new key switch and installed it yesterday and hope this solves the problem.
  4. Hi I am back with a problem after my carb overhaul. Since the rebuild and ultrasonic cleaning the engine accelerates better but sometimes the deceleration is slow and I do not know where this effect is coming from. A few days ago after 25 miles driving the engine goes and on after a few seconds and it seems because of momentary missing fuel flow. On last saturday I could not switch of the engine but I think this was an ignition switch problem and has nothing to do with the carb or am I wrong? I will by a new ignition switch to rule out a switch problem. Any ideas what to check on the carb to be sure that its proper working? Thanks for any help.
  5. Fitting is nowhere in Germany available , so I decided to use Loctite 542 thread seal .Due to the low temprature it will take days to harden. Will see on sunday if it solves the leakage.😄
  6. This is the fitting. Without teflon it stops after half thread in. Is this the correct hose fitting?
  7. My carb is installed and engine runs but I got now a fuel leak at the inlet connection of the needle seat assembly , the seal of seat fitting is wet and the connection between needle assembly and fuel hose fitting is dripping. Is the gasket wrong? What can I use to stop the leak ? As you can see I used white teflon tape to prevent leakage. I stopped because this is a potential risk of an engine fire again.
  8. Float is adjusted and Carb complete rebuild but I am struggeling with pump rod adjustment . The manual of the rebuild kit says measure the travel between fully closed and fully open and it should be 3/8 and if this don't match bend the pump rod. The travel measured is 5/8 ( 15mm ) and I can bend as much as I want I do not reach the 3/8 ( 9,5 mm) of travel. Is this the manual wrong or what did I wrong?
  9. Carb ultrasonic cleaned and received the overhaul kit. Started to complete the carb.Inside the kit is a daytona float valve ( flat). The Stromberg manual says adjust float level to 3/16 is this the correct for the daytona valve also?
  10. Float is now bubble free I disassemled the float halfs cleaned all edges and solder it again that helps.
  11. The front suspention was changed to a Heidts Mustang II . I will solder it again 🙄 and try to close also this very small hole.
  12. Oh man this float drives me crazy to solder it is not so easy.I opened the solder dot on top of the float. I solder the sides checked it in hot water no leakage , after closing the top hole a checked it again small bubbles are comming out of the sides . I did this now six times everytime another area was leaking . After the last time there are only a one small bubble after bubble at one corner visible.I got the problem that the solder did not really get in contact with the brass.I cleaned and degreased it but no improvement.😪 So I stopped today and put the float in a glass filled up by gas and check if the gas will not enter the float. Carb is totally cleaned by ultrasonic and the jet pumps have no corrosion and look good , I do not remove them. I bought a fuel pressure regulator to reduce the fuel pressure to 4 PSI . The last problem ( except the hood 🤣 )is the deformed choke cap , I am still thinking on a easy solution.
  13. I will leave the main jet installed and clean the main carb body as good as I can. Would the main jets need an adjustment after Removal/Installation? The float is checked in hot water and it has two areas of leakage 🙄 . I left the float for a couple of minutes in the hot water but there is still fuel in. I read that some drill a small hole to drain the fuel but I want to avoid drilling. Any other Idea how to drain the fuel without drilling?
  14. I ordered an overhaul kit , fuel pressure gauge plus a pressure regulator to reduce the fuel pressure to 4 psi and start to disassemble the carb.Now there are coming up some questions .A ball fall down I think it could be the pump inlet check ball , a picture shows where I think it should be located. Is that correct that this carb has only two balls ( inlet and outlet check ball)?( some carb drawings show 6 balls ) The float assembly has some liquid in it , is that right and is it for damping reason or has the float body a leak? ( I check it under water but no air bubbles visible) How can I remove the metering jet and the main discharge nozzles, do I need a special tool? How can I remove both idle tubes without any damage, do I need a special tool? Hope somebody could answer my questions.
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