walt evans

I've been flying with it for years. Last plane had an A65 Continental. Compression ratio was about 6. The Dodge is about 4. The good thing is AVgas doesn't have the crap in it. Put some auto gas in a saucer and Avgas in another. tomorrow the auto gas is gone, and the Avgas is still there. Very stable. Also the Dodge was made for the lead to jube the valve guides, modern auto gas has none. 100LL(Low lead) does. the main reason for higher octane is so the fuel doesn't pre-ignite under the higher pressures of modern engines. The Dodge doesn't have that. Bottom line, Avgas a lot better for the Dodge than modern auto gas.

Think it's one of those things that you never notice till you're looking for something else and the condensation stands out as being odd.

Mike, Any time you have rapid expansion of air, like when air/fuel goes through the carb venturi, the temp drops. So it's like a cold glass of beer with condensation on the outside. That is not necessarily a bad thing except in flying. That's why small piston airplanes have a Carb heat control to put hot air into the carb when slowing the engine which brings the vacuum up. The planes will actually freeze up and quit. And it actually happens more in the warm weather when the moisture is high.

Mikefit, Thanks. I guess that's kind of what I did. Just that it seemed quite alot of movement. Guess the point of this thread is wondering why I had to move it so much. Bottom line is that It runs so much better now, I'm happy.

The picture that is shown with the procedure is usually this one. But it's confusing cause with the rotor turning clockwise, this is where the points close, not where it's firing. Maybe I'm just assuming that's where I should be, but I should be on the other side of the lobe.That would make sense to where I turned it. For all you who did this and it worked, where you like the Picture, or where the point fire? Thanks

Mike and Matt, I've tried multiple times and it doesn't make sense. That my problem. As far as the timing light, can't seem to find the mark in the window anywhere. (I've even highlighted it with a big white dot. The time light alone is not the problem, It's how am I reading the procedure wrong? I don't understand that in all the illustrations of the distributor, it shows the finger of the points on the back side of the lobe with the rotor spinning clockwise, this would relate to the points closing not opening when the spark happens. Guess maybe that "close" point is just the reference that they use back then. I still don't get it. Oh well.

It's not the fast four. Seems the models were changing around this time. Engine #D936-xxx. The distributor is lower right, front, driven off water pump shaft

Maybe someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong. I have a 27 Dodge Brothers Roadster. I've tried to time it to the book, but it's very confusing. I consider myself pretty good with engines, but this just isn't working. After doing what I think they are saying, it run's but sluggish as hell with little or no power. While its running I loosened the dist. and turned to the left (CCW) and it increased in rpm and power. I must have moved it 20 degrees or so. Now it's peppy and has quick acceleration.It's obvious I am doing it wrong, but what part of the procedure am I not understanding? I'd appreciate any input on this. Thank you.

Here's mine. Original riveted 27 roadster