ADade

Here's a photo of the car (on the right) in 1959 before restoration was complete (no top, no interior), but you can see the cowl lights aren't brass. Funny sidelight -- although the two kids (my wife and her brother) appear to have their hands on the two cars' fenders, they're actually holding their hands about an inch above the paint -- not touching it. Their father would have killed them had they actually touched the paint!

Not a dumb question at all, by the way, Marty

Everything on the car is nickel and everything is lacquered. I just finished stripping the top half of the windshield and I'm working on the headlamp brackets. It all looks the same. Did you see my post about the thought of submerging the lights in lacquer thinner? I'm a little hesitant because of the electrical connections and the reflector silvering.

The lights are both kerosene and electric, so there's wiring involved. Looking for opinions here. If I were to fill a small bucket with lacquer thinner and submerge the whole light, would it damage the wiring or the reflector silver? Just trying to brainstorm here.

Morgan - no picture? Not yet

It's entirely possible these aren't like the original lamps, but the car (with these lamps on it) took a national first place Junior and three national first place senior trophies in the 1960's, so it's apparently not a big deal. In any case, I don't intend to show the car -- it's a driver. I'm looking for recommendations on who could strip these lamps for me.

I have a recently acquired 1914 B37 restored in about 1959 or 1960. It's a beautiful car, but the restorer lacquered all the nickel to keep from having to polish it. Might have been a good idea at the time, but now after 62 years the lacquer is very yellow and unsightly. I'm doing most of the refinishing, but I'm stumped when it comes to the cowl lamps. Anybody know someone who (either as a business or a hobby) knows how to refinish these? See Photo.

Thanks for the inputs. I have indeed ordered a set of Champion 589 plugs -- Larry, I posted this question then thought "DUH! Larry Schramm has this exact engine -- ask him!" Sometimes I'm a little slow on the uptake.

I'm bringing back a 1914 B-37 touring car after long term storage and need spark plugs. The plugs that were in the engine were marked "AC C-78L Commercial". Does anybody know of a modern equivalent, or where I might look? This is a nice car - 1960's AACA first place national junior and 2x national first place senior, plus first place national senior VMCCA winner, so I want to do it right.

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear -- I haven't found tanks with inset flanges. My latest plan is to cut the ends off the original tank and, without cutting the new tank, solder the old ends on, covering the domed ends of the new tank. Probably difficult to envision, but I'll send pictures. I ordered the new tank yesterday and it should be here next week.

I was planning to use a stainless dune buggy tank as a starting point (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/EMPI-00-3887-0-Stainless-Steel-Gas-Tank-10-x-33-Inch-10-7-Gallon,294345.html?OriginalQuery=141-3887) As you mention, the ends are the problem. My original tank is 30" long by 10" wide, so by using the 33" tank I have 1.5" of extra length on each end after removing the domed end caps. I haven't seen tanks with inset flanges on the end -- can you send a link?

My neck is welded, not riveted, so that's not a problem here.

We're thinking about modifying this tank https://www.speedwaymotors.com/EMPI-00-3887-0-Stainless-Steel-Gas-Tank-10-x-33-Inch-10-7-Gallon,294345.html?OriginalQuery=141-3887 We'd have to cut off the ends and weld on new ends that aren't domed, then cut the old threaded necks off the old tank and weld them onto the new one. Then we'd have to paint it. Much cheaper than having a new take created from flat stock. I'll check out your links above as well.

That does look great -- What I'd like to do is to get a new tank built (and I was planning to reuse the filler neck, fuel gauge neck and supply like fitting from the old tank as has been suggested). Then I'd think it would be a good idea to line the new tank, and use the aircraft paint suggested above, provided I can find an acceptable color as the tank is very visible at the rear of the car. Still looking for someone I can trust to cut out the old fittings and produce the new tank. As usual, you guys are being very helpful -- much appreciated!

There's been no sloshing, Terry. I haven't even driven the car. No, there's been no fuel outside the tank.