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smokuspollutus

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  1. I have actually seen this car in person, back in 2014. It was parked at a gas station service center. It caught my eye as the uncommon two-tone made it identical to my father's Eldorado from many eons ago. I initially thought it might have been the same car as I have never seen another like it, but this car lacks the sunroof that his car had. The garage was closed when I saw the car, and when I swung by again the car was gone. At that time the bumper fillers were disintegrated. It looks like they have been replaced. Elsewise the car appears almost identical down to the Riviera hubcaps. It has been for sale on and off since that point in the New York area, this is the first time I am seeing it in NJ. In person it was pretty well worn. Having seen it in person and understanding the market of these, the asking price is a bit of a reach. Thanks for sharing this! Here's some pictures from 2014 https://www.flickr.com/photos/smokuspollutus/15478311961/in/photolist-pzLoTB-piyewr-pzLnTk-pixw3s-pzLojR-piwyQc-piwBKk-pixNGC-py179U-pixNYQ-pA1DEU-py17Cj-jtysxn-m3pYKP-LK34Zj-m3qLWs-m3qLQW-LK35eh-LK3585-jtAq17-m3qLXj-m3pj7i-dNBGPC-feZvHd-feKdWB-CVHD3m-feKdXD-LK35b1-D3Y5EY-oRHnn3-feKe12-feKdYx-cSRxa9-LK352U-M1UETQ-M1UEZw-LK34VS-rDJPQm-M8AuMW-iRFEhj-LK34Uj-MbJ8Wx-LK356w-iRBDeV-cSRxg5-iRD4Cv-dvJwLy-cSRyem-qZwNyv-rWkbnM
  2. Hi guys, figured I’d update this, I ended up making another one of these for use on my daily driver which has the same engine as listed above. I used all the same material/procedure as above, just at the 1/8” thickness. Way easier to cut and drill. Anyway, it works! I did not use any RTV, just placed the gasket on the pan, installed to the engine, and tightened until I saw it just start “squish” out. I’ve driven the car about 1200 miles in the past month and the pan is totally dry. Don’t know how it will really age, but at the very least the material resists oil and heat.
  3. Thanks for all the advice guys. My measuring skills definitely need some work because the 3/16 is pretty thick. 1/8 would have more than done the trick. But, it worked about as well as I could have hoped. Clipped the cork gasket to the rubber sheet and spray painted to see where to cut. Cut the form out with an exacto knife. Then used a cheap set of harbor freight punches to make the holes. They fit in my drill which made the process much faster and made nice clean holes. Put on the engine and to my shock everything lined up and seems to have tightened down nicely. No report on oil tightness yet, we’ll have to wait and see if I ever get the engine in the car. But, I’ll update when I do! Finished product
  4. Thanks guys. Measured the existing cork and came in at 3/16, so I went with that thickness. Heres another question, the cork gasket I put on had metal washers in the bolt holes, I assume to prevent crushing to the extent possible. Is it worth it to transfer these things to the new rubber gasket?
  5. Thanks so much guys. I've been reviewing the McMaster stuff and they seem to have something that I think will work. The good point about this application is that it is a deep skirt block so the sealing surface is completely flat (no bends to be made over the main caps) So I'm pretty hopeful that I can just buy a sheet of this stuff and cut appropriately with an Xacto knife. https://www.mcmaster.com/nitrile-rubber-sheets/oil-resistant-high-temperature-buna-n-rubber-sheets/ It seems to check all the boxes of temperature resistance, of course oil/gas safe being made of Nitrile, and is the right size at a price I can justify. The sealing surface is 23" long so one of those 12"x24" sheets should be exactly what I need. Now its just a question of the appropriate thickness. Anyone have any pointers? Thicker/thinner/same as the existing cork?
  6. Thanks for the tip for McMaster. I’ll check them out. Anyone have an idea of what material types I’d be looking for in this application? re: installation: I’ve tried before mainly on valve covers but at best only ended up with something that leaked less than it did before. Always tried to do the right thing, straighten the holes if bent, used orange RTV/ black RTV, the right stuff, totally dry, but just never really worked out. I’d like to rid the engine totally of cork if possible since the valve covers are already cast aluminum with rubber gaskets. Thanks guys.
  7. Hi guys, I've completed my first engine build. Currently, engine (Cadillac 4.1 liter) is on the stand awaiting install. Everything went according to plan, but I have one point of trepidation. This engine was only ever available with a cork oil pan gasket, and as such that is all the aftermarket supplies. I hate cork gaskets and in the past have never really gotten a good, lasting seal out of them. I have the pan on now with the cork gasket, but before installing in the car, I want to make sure this is the best I can do. It is extremely difficult to change the gasket with the engine in the car (1984 Cadillac Eldorado) Question: does anyone know if it is possible to purchase a sheet of rubber-like material, of the same composition you would find in an OE rubber gasket specific to that application? Though process here is; buy a sheet of material that the magical rubber gaskets that don't seem to leak, cut to match the oil pan, and install. Please excuse my ignorance, I know nothing of the difference between rubber, nitrile, neoprene, silicone, et. all. I failed chemistry in high school so if I'm using the wrong verbiage, accept my apologies. I'm just looking for something that will seal the best for the longest amount of time. As the engine is on a rotisserie right now, ease of installation is not a concern. Anyone been down this road and can offer guidance? Thanks so much, Anthony
  8. Thanks so much for your suggestions guys. I have been in touch with a local sign shop and they are interested in doing it. They think that it can be made gas resistant just through lamination. If it ends up falling through, I'll definitely be in touch with some of the folks you all mentioned. I really appreciate it.
  9. Hmm, sign shop was something I hadn't even thought of. I know of one nearby, might be worth paying them a visit. Thanks! As far as the computer, I think I could probably get something together on a program with enough trouble, but don't know the first thing about what type of printer I'd need, or what kinds of materials to print it on. Really appreciate the responses, I'm going to pursue the sign shop idea. But if anyone on here does this kind of thing, please feel free to drop a line in.
  10. Hi guys, I've been looking into getting a decal made up to replace a deteriorated one for my 1984 Cadillac Eldorado. I've attached a picture of what I'd like to have re-created. It goes just below the fuel filler/license plate and had a very light brushed metal appearance to it when new. It's located in the "dribble zone" for gas, so I assume it would have to be made out of a material that's fuel-rated. I've never had a decal made before and don't know what's involved. Assuming a minimum order is probably necessary which I don't have any trouble with. Anyone have any knowledge about these things and could help me out with their experience/skills? Is there a better subforum this post can be moved to? Thanks so much, Anthony
  11. Thanks Ed, I don't have Facebook but I will consult with the shop manual for a stamping to confirm ratio. Just awaiting the OP to get in touch with me if he is in fact interested in pulling the part.
  12. Jeff, I think I’m that guy who’s been looking for the 3.36 final drive that that car should be equipped with, along with the speedometer drive gear/governor. You can message me on here if you’d be interested in pulling it and shipping to NY. Thanks! anthony
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