Build4#2

Thanks Bill Looks like a doable project in the car. Now to get to it. Bruce

Thanks Bill The horn wire appears to have broken off from the collar. Hopefully I'll be able to just resolder it back on. Did you have to get a new one machined?

Thanks for the pictures. Do I need to remove the signal switch and wiring from the column? Can I remove the wheel and undo the brackets and lower clamp and slide the column off? Thanks

While replacing the cancelling spring in my turn signals the horn wire decided to disconnected itself at the bottom of the steering column. Is it possible to remove the outer jacket from the column in the car? Or am I just better to bypass it with a dash button. I'm hoping that I can just undo the brackets and maybe undo the signal wires from the fuse box and slide if off. Thanks Bruce

No problem hope it helps someone down the road. The rad hose wouldn't let the engine to come up high enough. I didn't need to undo the exhaust which was nice not having to fight with the bolts. Bruce

Got it done had to remove the lower rad hose from the rad but got the new ones in. The mounts from Bob's fit with zero mods. Bit of work to get the bolts to line up the engine was shifted back and to the driver side. Bruce

Thanks Ben I'm going to try jacking under the oil pan I can't get a engine hoist to the car the way it's located in my shop.

No problem thanks Ken I meant to say that I had loosened the trans and thrust pad. I'll tackle the last two bolts tomorrow then try jacking up the motor.

Thanks Ken I never thought about the fan clearance good to know. Definitely not like changing small block Chevy mounts. I got my mounts from Bob's hopefully no problems. Being in Canada they cost a small fortune by the time I got them.

Hi all I'm about to take on changing my motor mounts and wondering if there's and tips or tricks anyone has. I have the trans bolts all loose and have all but the front mount bolts out. They're really in there and I'm going to have to figure a way to break them loose. Do I have to remove the brackets from the engine and what about the exhaust and shift linkage? Thanks Bruce

Gm transmissions use two different size driven gears depending on the rear end ratio. The problem I had with my camaro was I needed a 19 tooth drive gear but my trans had a small diameter driven gear so the teeth didn't mesh hence the Speedo didn't work. It is possible that you have a large diameter driven and drive gear and that caused the teeth to be destroyed? Was it difficult to install the drive gear? Bruce

Section7-13 of the service manual has dimensions you need for ride height. You will have to figure out how to compress your springs. Bruce

Thanks for all the great ideas. The previous owner had redone all the brakes so my plan is to inspect the whole system this winter. Sid I'll have a look at the booster at Bob's , thanks . As for re-lining the shoes I don't know of anyone close by that does. Thanks for the link Bernie I'll check out the cost of sending them from Canada. Bruce

Thanks for all the responses. I find the braking sufficient on my car I'm just looking for more peddle pressure . I was hoping someone might have experience with a modern booster that fit ,like I said I do have a treadle vac that I can rebuild and use. I'm just trying to weight out using the original braking or if it's even worth while retro fitting something newer. Thanks Bruce

Hi I'm looking for some power brake upgrades ideas for my 55 special. I have a parts car with factory power that I could rebuild and use but is there newer modern upgrades that I should consider? I'm going to keep the original drum brakes from what I've read I don't see any real need to swap to discs. Thanks Bruce