Bill Stewart

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  1. Bill Stewart

    1936 Buick oil bath/air filter ???????

    I have one---not as pretty as the one in the picture. No significant rust, minor dents, several fins bent slightly. I'm going to Hershey. Call me between 10:00 a.m. and 10:00 p.m. Bill Stewart 231-675-3534
  2. Bill Stewart

    Best Spar Varnish on wood spokes????

    I did also use Captain's varnish. It's very good. You'll be happy.
  3. Bill Stewart

    Best Spar Varnish on wood spokes????

    I did the exterior varnish on my 43 year old sailboat every year for about 20 years. In order to stay perfect it needed to be done every year. I kept track of the latest tests in Practical Sailer (like Consumers Reports) and used the best stuff from major manufacturers. I ended up with Epifanes products, one of which is somewhat golden hewed but another (I think "Clear Gloss") is almost water clear. These are the only varnish type (urethane) finishes I found that will do 2 years out in the sun before starting to "lose it". In spite of our attachment to old things, none of the authentic old type finishes will match this performance. The slightly golden colored one, I think, adds something positive if not added to too much over the years. Keep in mind that your car will not be out in the sun, on the water, for months on end. Your wheels should look great for many years.
  4. Bill Stewart

    1936 320 cu in spark advance confusion

    I have confirmed that the flywheel is in the correct position by using the method for manually timing in the 36 shop manual. ( starting with the position of the #3 exhaust valve, turning the flywheel slightly, the timing marks end up in the window, something that could only happen if the flywheel is in the right place) Now I just need to get my fuel pump. Thanks for all the other ideas and methods. It all goes into useful general info.
  5. Bill Stewart

    1936 320 cu in spark advance confusion

    hchris I've brightened the timing marks and can actually see if I try hard enough. I will need to do as you suggest to see if the timing marks are in the right position. Do I ever hope the flywheel is where it should be! Thanks much! Bill
  6. Bill Stewart

    1936 320 cu in spark advance confusion

    Robin, Now that would be kind of a nightmare.....! And it sure would explain why I had not been able to see the timing marks in the window! .....And that it runs so rough over 20mph. I had thought of the flywheel position earlier to explain the rough running but convinced myself that I used old marks that were on it to replace it properly. I Can't really imagine not positioning it right. To me, the engine seems to suffer from irregular spark, not physical out of balance. It just doesn't have the rhythmic feel I would expect from an out of position flywheel. I will have to wait till my fuel pump is returned before starting the car. Some parts in rebuild kits for the fuel pump were incorrect (very annoying and seems to happen often) so I gave in and sent it away. I can hardly imagine having to take the engine out again, but your thought may turn out to be very perceptive. Bill
  7. Bill Stewart

    1936 320 cu in spark advance confusion

    Thanks for all the helpful responses. I have highlighted the timing marks with special emphasis at TDC and 10 deg. but I can't see them even when the engine is stopped with the marks in the window. The placement of the window allows me only a view of the ring gear. I used a 12v. light source with the timing light but simply can't get lined up for a view of the marks. Two of my friends who claim to be intelligent can't make this work either. (But they are Packard guys, so who knows). Is it possible that the view window is actually somewhat out of place? Just as I'm writing this it occurs to me that I can extend the marks out onto the ring gear where I can see them in the window. The idea of getting the marks and a pointer at the dampner may be the most straightforward solution. Use of the vacuum gauge is a new idea to me. I'll sure do that too! Many thanks! I can't try this till a fuel pump repair is completed. Bill PS To answer hchris, carburetor is rebuilt (also tried another carb), also has new points, spark plugs and wires, coil. No vacuum leaks. Good compression. I got to the distributor by default, I guess. Any other ideas would be welcome!
  8. Bill Stewart

    1936 320 cu in spark advance confusion

    Thank you Dave. Your comments are helpful! I like to understand how things work even when they don't need fixing (yet). My newly rebuilt engine runs terribly rough over 20 mph. The distributor seemed to be the culprit but i couldn't figure out why. I had it all apart, cleaned, and could find nothing wrong. It just came back from Advanced Distributors where the advance was recurved (just as you suggested) so I do not need to do the calibrating with a timing light that you suggest. However, trying to time the engine drives me nuts. I literally cannot see the timing marks through the dinky opening down behind the starter and oil filter, even standing on my head, using a mirror. How do people time this engine?! Thanks
  9. The 1936 shop manual has a fairly lengthy description of distributor action, especially regarding the interaction of centrifugal and vacuum features, whether they advance or retard the spark, why they do "whatever" under certain conditions, etc.---------. The explanations seem absolutely inconsistent to me. Do newer Buick shop manuals cover this topic in a different way? Is there some other resource that would help clarify this?
  10. Bill Stewart

    Buick PreWar Division Status Question

    I am relatively new on this forum, and new to old Buick restoration. I have received solid information, thoughtful suggestions and polite reactions to my sometimes naive questions. This forum has been invaluable to me. I hope the present problems can be minimized rather than exaggerated and that those involved will not lose sight of the purpose and benefits of the club and forum. Right now egos seem to be more of a problem than objective issues.
  11. Bill Stewart

    1936 running rough after overhaul

    Did a little reading about distributor machines. All new to me. I also discovered "Advanced Distributors" who seem to be well known and respected by many of our members. I would like to know if any members have had the response curve altered to improve running on modern gas. Any comments about distributor rebuilding or modifications would be appreciated.
  12. Bill Stewart

    1936 running rough after overhaul

    Bloo, thank you for your many good ideas. The engine was a mess before overhaul. I barely ran it before discovering it had 4 broken pistons, apparently from failing to ream the cylinders for a ring job.The distributor came to me on the car but I recently discovered that it is a 1949 distributor. It is very slightly different than a 36 distributor but appears functionally identical.( Maybe I'm missing something by assuming that?) As to checking the spark advance, I don't know what a "distributor machine" is but it if it checks distributor operation I'm sure I'd like it. I do have a simple timing light, not a "dialback timing light". I have been able to check the vacuum advance in a crude sort of way. Your ideas are very promising. I'll be trying them out asap (right now I'm swamped with summer visitors.) Thank you!
  13. Bill Stewart

    1936 running rough after overhaul

    After overhaul, my 36 Roadmaster engine runs well at idle and up to about 20 miles an hour. It has loads of low speed torque. It then starts to run roughly and gets progressively worse at higher speeds,---- really terrible at 45 or 50. It almost feels like the engine is out of balance except that it is not regular. My next impression was that the point spring was so weak that the contact was just "floating", resulting in very erratic spark. Actually the spring is strong, maintaining good contact. It seems like the The carburetor has been rebuilt, and even trying a different carb doesn't change things. It's been timed properly, gaped, new plugs and wires. Tappets have been carefully adjusted. Vacuum shows about 18lbs with a very tiny regular flutter that i don't understand. There is no appreciable exhaust or breather smoke. The engine is still on break-in oil. Compression at cranking speed is 87 to 93 in all cylinders. My guess now is that the distributor is likely to be the culprit. I don't really know how to test for distributor spark advance behavior. It seems like centrifugal and vacuum functions are working OK.Ideas please? Bill
  14. Bill Stewart

    36 Roadmaster manifold problem

    Nice response Rodney. Sometimes we just need to keep smiling.
  15. Bill Stewart

    36 Roadmaster manifold problem

    I installed the Remflex manifold gaskets. Still leaked badly--- not the fault of the gaskets. I finally realized that the manifolds were so far out of plane that no gasket could possibly accommodate. The manifolds have now been machined, look beautiful, are all lined up and will go on tomorrow. The machinist told me the exhaust manifold was new, not just cleaned up, and could not possibly have worked together with the intake manifold. This car ran so poorly when I got it that I only ran it a few minutes before realizing it would need to be all torn down. I bought this car sight unseen after a professional inspector found the engine to be "smooth and quiet". Considering that it also had four broken pistons, that could not have been true. There must be a lesson here. But we can't always inspect a car ourselves------ This forum is a wonderful service to newbies such as myself. Often the information is right on, occasionally it's just in the ballpark but it gets the thought processes going. Thanks to everyone who contributes.