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About Diseasewithnocure

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  1. Great, thanks for confirming this - I am going to bend and fabricate mine up with some brake tubing I think and make it more or less a nice tight press fit over the machined surface on the outlet on the exhaust...perhaps also then just use a small fuel hose clamp or something of the like to add some force around it for now. I can't imagine that there's a lot of pressure coming out of that port based on what I see and what you've described... The bigger bummer I found was the intake manifold having a crack about 1.5" in length near where the carb. bolts up on top of. Luckily it looks like a hairline crack and has probably been there for many years (I'm guessing or assuming). I think once I confirm the car starts consistently would be to remove it and try to JB weld over it, at least enough to keep it from drawing in any air, since it's more of a spider crack than anything. In the mean time I've ordered everything to rebuild the carb. and hope that with the new fuel pump delivering the right amount of pressure and the carb. rebuilt it will be everything I need to at least get the car somewhat running and driving enough before snow fall to fix whatever it throws at me next.
  2. Ben Bruce, Thanks for your awesome info on this...I think I will take some time to inspect these features with a little more of a critical eye and see if I can identify the exact year! It has appeared so far that a lot of the parts I've been buying have been bolting up and working just fine but of course, it would be great to know for certain what it is! Now with the (proper) fuel pump back in and working, I'm planning to rebuild the carb. next and then bolt everything back together to see if I can get a running car after all that...ashamedly, you are 100% right about the low mileage - I wish it were different but my father's health, the amount I work, combined with 5 months of Wisconsin winters make even 100 miles a stretch! But maybe with it now (hopefully) running it will change things!!
  3. Good day Gents, Good news - I purchased a rebuilt fuel pump from eBay for $55 shipped...installed it yesterday and everything works as I could imagine it would. First pumped fuel from a pony tank and got a consistent and event amount of fuel delivery on each "lobe" stroke of the cam. Later I bypassed the electric fuel pump and went straight to the tank and am still getting very even and consistent flow of fuel from the pump with the engine cranking over - so good news there! I have to say, at first I was hesitant as since for as long as I can remember (to when I was 12 or 13 and the car was last running & driving) it has had an electric pump attached to it by whatever hack was too lazy or careless to rebuild the original, mechanical fuel pump. I thought I was opening myself up to more problems and "well there had to have been a reason someone did this..." but after now installing it and everything hooked up, it looks and feels a lot better original than hacked...so thanks for pushing the issue everyone!
  4. Hello everyone, made some further progress (I think) on the matter - even if it's just identifying. After a lot of hunting (even though I knew where to look, it kind of blended in until it jumped out and now sticks out like a sore thumb) I found the block stamping. According to my eyes it appears to look like 4 39183 _ 1 but I second guessed myself for some time. Based on what I found here (Buick Engine ID <52') it is a 1940 model 40, 263 (because of the stamping location, and the valve cover length of 30-3/4"). I also made some other assumptions or conclusions: 1) The 4 (which shows very faintly) was originally cast into the block, and the remaining numbers were stamped - is that correct? 2) The 'Starting Engine Number' of 4-3786214 was the "first" 1940 40 to get made in 1940, then 4-3786215 being the second and so on...until mine of 4-39183 ?1 was made 132,086 later?? (assuming my unreadable number was a 0 for easy math) 3) Were they drunk, lazy, or simply really sloppy while stamping these numbers onto the block? I doubt anyone on here worked on the line that month (I could be wrong though!) but figured I would ask. 4) This could be the original motor or is there any reason for me not to have that hunch? 5) Any idea what that 'U' shape might have been or happened there? (Aside from a clumsy mechanic somehow hitting it with a punch along the way) I didn't know if some how they did this for some reason in its 77 year life along the way... Once I can confirm this is a 1940 motor, my plan was to purchase a fuel pump (here) and get to work installing it. The next question foolishly is...where does this even go? While we are on the topic, and since everyone loves pictures - here are some more just for fun. Was the plate covering or sealing a hole on the passenger side (towards the front of the engine, in front of the crankcase breather) where an oil filter once went? Or what goes here exactly? Thanks again for everyone's help and input...unfortunately born in 89' makes me unfamiliar with a lot of things related to this car/engine, but it sure has been fun learning from all of you guys.
  5. Hahaha so is the general consensus to drain the "special non-detergent" out and replace it with something different? Seeing that this car will get driven 100-250 miles/year max and most likely (and unfortunately) sit the remainder of the time - is there any recommendation (or should I say, general and common consensus ) on an oil type to use?
  6. Jon, That completely makes sense...right when we got started we had the car actually running fine (or at least semi-smoothly) off a fuel pump with the hose hanging into a 5 gallon gasoline fill tank. After doing all the bushings, brakes, oil pan, etc. we tied the 6V pump into the actual gas tank and filled it 3/4 full with gasoline. It wasn't until after that which we started to get no/poor running results. Is it safe to say for now that with the 6V pump tied into the tank (with a lot more pressure on the inlet side than "pulling" it up & out of a 5 gallon jug) that too much pressure is forcing fuel past the float and needle valves? After doing some research, it appears that there is no longer any factory fuel pump (or anything that looks like this fuel pump) on the vehicle anymore. Would you recommend buying and installing one like that, or adding a 1-4 PSI regulator to the fuel line inlet (after the pump)? At this point, originality is lesser concern of frankly getting the car running and driving (but in a proper way, without at risk of mechanical failure or short/long term damage).
  7. ** CORRECTION ** I had meant 46C in all my original postings...I mixed up 1940 and 40C together...as the nameplate states, it is a 46C. ** CORRECTION **
  8. Hi Ben, Very nice - I will double check and see if I can find out engine ID now that I know where to look. There is plenty of gas getting to/into the carb (I believe) as it is pooling up in the "intake manifold" and probably 1/16" or 1/32" in height of a pool in there. The "V" jets are also dumping a solid stream of gas into the chamber too when you step on the pedal, so I think the gas is definitely getting in there. My next plan was to rebuild the carb, fix the heat tube, and then try again...unless based on these photos (which I will send more of) and video, someone has other ideas of where to look. Thanks again. 4F2462BC-2185-4D0C-9212-8C9E6A28D984.TRIM.MOV
  9. Interesting! I specifically went out of my way to find, buy, and use non-detergent oil from a few posts I read on here..."luckily" I haven't been able to put any miles on it (for not so lucky reasons hah), and I don't want to open up a new can of worms with detergent vs. non-detergent. Given that even once I get this car running, it will only probably see about 100-150 miles max per year, is there any recommendation on oil brand/type? Thanks again!
  10. Thank you Jon - greatly appreciated. Anything to watch for or watch out for while doing the rebuild? At first glance the carb. seems relatively simple but I know (exterior) looks can be deceiving.
  11. Hi everyone, First off - let me say what a great forum...I have been silently creeping on the sidelines to get info here and there when needed and it's totally different from any other forum(s) I'm a part of. I can't say I can contribute a lot (yet) but look forward to being a part of the community. Long story short, a good friend and I am in the process of getting my father's oldest prized possession back on the road and running for him to use and enjoy as he's turning 80 in the near future, and hasn't been able to do so. It is a 1940 Buick Special convertible 40C. It last ran and drove about 15 years ago and has been parked in a climate controlled garage ever since; I have some memories back then riding in it when I was young (7-8 years old) so I'm really hoping to get it back to driving state to enjoy....well once Wisconsin thaws out next spring. Between here and Bob's Automobilia (which I don't know if that's viewed as gold or rubbish on this website, maybe someone can comment on that too) it has been easy to get the basics figured out, at least to my knowledge of thinking. So far: 1) Removed the rear differential cover, cleaned out, new gasket, filled with fresh oil (SAE 140 GL-4). 2) Drained transmission fluid, new gasket, and filled with fresh oil (SAE 140 GL-4). 3) Pulled the oil pan, cleaned oil pickup filter, new gasket, and filled with fresh oil (SAE 30 non-detergent). 4) Replaced a lot of suspension related bushings and really anything that was easily available and easily replaceable "while we're underneath it" kind of thing. 5) Drained and cleaned the fuel tank, flushing the lines, replacing the fuel filter (a simple in-line paper type), and verifying clean gas is coming up through the line. 6) There does not appear to be any type of fuel pump (vacuum or "old style") anymore on the car, nor can my father remember having one...a "friend"/hack of my father's fitted it with a electric fuel pump but considering it was 12V goes to show the level of knowledge he possessed. So it now at least as a functioning 6V pump on it and provides adequate pressure I believe. 7) Replaced the battery with a new 6V (3EH). 8) Replaced all plugs with new ones R46S equivalents from Champion, and have verified that timing and spark is there. 9) Verified timing and spark is there With that, I'm looking for some help on the following: 1) Identifying if the motor is indeed a 1940 or if not, exactly what year. I believe these should have been grey in color (correct?) originally, mine is black. So I would like to identify if mine is either the original motor (but painted) or from a different year. How would I go about doing this? 2) How can I identify the carb type? I would like to rebuild the carb as well...right now it has Stromberg and 7-74 stamped into it. I'm hoping someone can provide some clarity on year/model of carb regarding a rebuild kit. 3) It is turning over and "sputtering" but won't stay running on its own. It appears that the only way to get it to run for considerable time is by pressing the throttle down ALL the way, for quite some time, and then finally it will run for a very brief time but very poorly. Feathering the throttle doesn't seem to have an effect on its time to stay running or anything - even when I quickly hold the starter relay (near the carb) up so that is no longer engaging and has the chance to grind. I will try to upload a video later today or tomorrow to show how it is running. I know it could be a million things, but getting some ideas on these old(er) cars would be great since I'm not too familiar. 4) Lastly, the heat tube (running from the exhaust manifold to carb) was completely rusted out (near the exhaust manifold)...how critical is this? And it seems like a difficult part to find, can you make and flare your own replacement out of brake line, or any other ideas? Thanks in advance - I really appreciate the help.