Steven Ford

Yellow 23 R is 50% mine and 50% a buddies - we bought it just after his wife died and I was still working on my 24 R. Parked next to it is a 22 R that Duncan Hudson owned at the time photo was taken. The Green wreck is what's left of a 26 A coupe - scrounging for parts as a future project - as far as can be determined there is only this one and a restored one located in Tasmania surviving in Australia (love to hear of another). The Blue / Silver R parked next to the Chev is my 24 that was mid way thru its restoration when the yellow car was obtained. The Red R is a 23 that was obtained for spares but is turning into a restoration as I have A LOT of R parts. The rusted wreck is a 23/4 that is now completely stripped down to the last rivet and may possibly turn into another project (as if I don't have enough). Add into the mix 6 non Hupp vehicles either going or being worked on or waiting in the wings and I need to live at least another 100 years!

OK here is what I have after retrieving the box from the parts dungeon. A total of 9 of the units in Davids picture - numbers and all are the same on mine In addition there are 14 bolts, 16 of the clamp plates with a largish lip on them and 4 with a smaller lip (see pic) plus 1 odd ball plate. No good to me as I have the wire wheels fitted to my vehicles. Looking for 46 Buick hood latch bezel or the roof mounted antenna if someone can secure either for a straight swap. My email is down so leave a message here and lets see what can be done Cheers Steve

I have a box full of NOS wedges etc that are supposed to be Hupp. Once the pics are up I may be able to supply what you need. Cheers Steve

An order for 10 bearings has been placed for which all but 2 are allocated (all responses came via Aust NZ Hupp Register). Delivery expected early October. Final price will probably be nudging A$400 each when all the dust settles and government stick on any import duties / customs charges etc. Cant know for sure as its the first time I've trod this path. But 2 only remaining if someone needs them. Steve

After a lot of looking at photographs of Hupmobile coupes I am almost certain that what I have is Hupp of around 1927. Can anyone provide detail of what the back should look like along with some dimensions etc? I assume wheelbase on coupes and roadsters were shorter than sedans and tourers (this is about a foot shorter than my R models) so I will need to source a frame with running gear along with hood and radiator. The first thing to do is make the body sound as it has no wooden frame worth keeping. My initial thoughts are to get a Model A Ford rumble lid and hinges etc from Snyders and rebuild around that but I am not sure how it would work out regarding curvature amongst other things. So I believe the best option would be to go as close as possible to what Hupp did and fabricate the lot so I need something for comparison, Nothing available locally to look at! Steve

I dragged this body home on the weekend. No identifying tags etc and it looks to be on a Chev chassis. The guy I got it from reckons its Hupp - can anyone confirm this from the pictures? If it is then I am after the dimensions and profile details for returning it to rumble seat configuration as that pick up bed just has to go!! Cheers Steve

Hi everyone The cost has come back to have the bearings and races made at Australian $350 per wheel excluding any freight charges and providing that we can do a minimum quantity of 10. Hupp part numbers are 49119 (outer race) 49120 (inner race) and 49121 (cage and roller assy) The only difference would be solid rollers as opposed to the original spiral wound ones in part 49121 To get these underway I am now asking for a firm commitment from interested parties and delivery is 10 - 12 weeks from time of placing the order. I have asked the US club and the local Hupp register here in Australia to solicit interested parties. I expect it will be a once only exercise so if you even think you might need some down the path please get on board. I personally think the quoted price is realistic since I had been quoted over half that amount for 1 only NOS outer race that had some rust pitting to its surface. Regards Steve

Hi Lump Picture of what I have on one of my cars. The other car I have is also similar as are the ones I have seen on other R models. Issue is that bodies were locally produced here in Australia for taxation reasons imposed to stimulate local industry, - So type fitted to Hupp factory bodied cars I cant tell you. Bearing sample is on its way for quotation and I have Alan Jones of Hupmobile Register getting the word out in the next issue - need to get the US Hupp club on board also for expressions of interest. Closest modern bearing I have found is a double row ball unit same outside diameter as the outer race and same inner diameter as the axle tube plus same width as the stock unit. There is no system I can devise to utilize these to stop[ races turning in housings and still get the wheel off again as per the Hyatt units as both are a press on fit. Lets see how much it hurts to have some made to original specs. Cheers Steve

I have just emailed the company concerned for separate pricing on the inner and outer races and the cage and roller assembly pending arrival of samples. I have asked for some "ball park" pricing at this stage based on a quantity of 10, 20 & 30 units and upwards from there, I have a pal here in Australia who is interested in a spare set plus some for my cars so that's al least six at this very early stage. A rough comparison would be the outer ring. I have located 1 new old stock from a specialist vintage car bearing company and they are asking $ 250.00 Australian for it, In regards to the inner race and the actual bearing, they have thrown in the towel after hunting for me since November last year - according to them I will never find them if they cant and their suggestion is to change the rear end to one from a '25 R which they can get bearings for. My understanding is that the later unit is incompatible with the earlier cars in regard to the Houk & Hayes wheels plus driveshaft and braking differences so I would wish to not deviate from standard parts fitment. Watch this space for developments and spread the word around as the more we can get made the cheaper they will be Regards Steve

So Far no luck in procuring the bearing parts, All sources inform me that the Hyatt wheel bearing and inner and outer rings are non existent to suit the model R Hupp. There is a light at the end of the tunnel though as I have found a bearing company willing to make both the rings and the bearing cage & roller assembly. Cost is yet to be determined - they will do 1 of each but cost gets lower with quantity. So anyone interested in getting this project off the ground so they have spares? Expression of interest needed so when I send off the sample they have some idea on quantity and therefore unit costs. Thanks Steve

Hi everyone. I am still on the scrounge for the inner wheel bearing races for the rear wheels to suit 1924 Model R. Scan of the parts list with what I need highlighted. Anyone know of someone who could make me some form the correct grade steel? Regards Steve hupp wheel bearings001.pdf

I have attached a drawing I made up some time ago to suit model R Hupps fitted with a magneto ignition. ( Right Hand Drive) You never know it may help you as it appears to be a similar arrangement. Regards Steve Hupp throttle magy linkages 24-Model.pdf

Thanks Lump that would be appreciated. I have the old ones pulled and have been shopping around the local suppliers with no luck. It has been suggested that I could get the old ones resurfaced but if it came to that I would probably get completely new ones made and case hardened. Cheers Steve

Hi all. I am on the hunt for the inner race for rear wheel bearings to suit 1923/4/Model R. Hupmobile part number 49120 "rear wheel bearing inner race - wheel end". Does anyone know where I can obtain some of these? Does anyone have the bearing manufacturers part numbers? I am restoring a rear end that has been out in the open for a number of years and these are all I need to complete the job. The completed unit will go into storage as a spare part for one of the running cars I have should it ever be needed. Thanks Steve