56 Buick

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About 56 Buick

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  1. 56 Buick

    Where buy extended wheel studs for 56 Buick?

    Hmmm long story short...I need to fit better centres onto the wire wheels that are on the car. As you would know the front hubs are huge due to the use of the ball bearing setup but this causes a issue in fitting the correct wheel centre onto this wheel - that is the correct centre wont fit on the wheel as the axle sticks too far out. The previous owner got around the issue by not using dust caps and engineering his own centres. Unfortunately, the dust caps are helpful to keeping dust etc. out of the hub and also his engineered centres have fallen apart. Anyway, i have the correct centres but it seems to me the only way to get everything to fit is to space out the front wheels. Hence the longer wheel studs being required. I hear what you are saying about using other studs but if i recall correctly the standard studs have a 60 degree conical seat so i think i would surely need something with the same conical seat to suit. I may have to take a better look at the setup again.
  2. 56 Buick

    Where buy extended wheel studs for 56 Buick?

    They have nothing available as standard I can see but I have sent them an email.
  3. Hi, ideally after extra 1/2" length. So far I can only find the standard 1" length. Dimensions are 9/16-18 thread with 3/4" hex head and 60 deg conical seat. Same dimensions for all models 57 & 58. Also same on rear of 59 & 60 Invicta, Electra and LeSabre. Thanks Drew
  4. 56 Buick

    56 idle speed, ignition timing, etc.

    I got some work to do! Thanks everyone for all the good advice. I will post back when I resolve the issue. The answer may help soneone else in the future.
  5. 56 Buick

    56 idle speed, ignition timing, etc.

    The carb is the original 4 barrel Rochester. I have a tach on the timing light but i will need to borrow a vacuum guage. I am actually thinking there is an issue with the carb. I can turn the idle stop screw all the way out so it is not against the stop at all but the idle is still at 650rpm. This is also after screwing in the idle mixture screws. They are set at just under 1 full turn from all the way in as the engine was running rich at idle previously.
  6. Hi Touched briefly on these issues in another thread but i didnt want to hijack that thread so hence this new thread. The shop mnanual states that in order to set the ignition timing correctly then the idle needs to be reduced to 350rpm so the mechanical and vacuum advance are not operating. Now the car was idling around 700rpm. Beemon suggested the engine was running rich so I screwed back the idle mixture screws and i can get the idle to 650rpm but it runs rough. I tried pulling on the throttle linkage to pull the throttle back hard against the stop and it will go down to 500rpm where it stalls. As a result, I cant be certain the timing is set correctly albeit there is no pinging. Does anyone have any advice. I am thinking i will get a vacuum guage to see what that is reading. Thanks Drew
  7. 56 Buick

    Dynaflow reliability

    Hmmmm...I was reading the shop manual for the 56 in respect to setting the ignition timing. The manual says bring the idle down to 350 rpm in order to properly set the timing and then take it back to 450. But the lowest idle rpm I can obtain is about 700. So I have been curious as to how exactly I am supposed to lower the idle. I was wondering whether I needed to reset all the throttle linkages if that would make a difference...
  8. Many thanks. It appears that for whatever reason someone has wired the coil up the wrong way. I will set it correctly.
  9. But having looked at the battery terminals, the negative terminal is grounded onto the engine block - so that means it is a negative ground system. That being the case then it seems to me that the wiring to the coil is not correct. The points wire from the distributor should run to the negative terminal of the coil and not the positive terminal of the coil. Having said that, I am not sure what effect if any occurs when the coil is wired up on a different polarity. Anyone have any advice? Thanks
  10. Hi I am after a bit of help here. Now i always assumed the mid fifties GM cars all had negative ground systems but I am looking at the distributor and coil and the points wire runs from the distributor to the positive terminal of the coil and the negative terminal of the coil is connected to the ballast resistor. My understanding is that this makes it a positive ground system? Do the 56 Buicks use a positive ground system or has someone wired up the coil incorrectly? Thanks Drew
  11. Hi, the rear quarter window binds up as you wind it down to the point where i am afraid to wind it down any further in case i break something. I am going to pull the upholstery trim to get access to the winding mechanism and see if i can find the problem. But I would be interested to know if anyone has any advice as to what is the likely problem before I start? Thanks Drew
  12. 56 Buick

    56 starter relay

    After receiving and installing the relay it appears the relay type that is required is not 'normally closed' but rather 'normally open'. Meaning the car will not start until the relay coil is activated and closes the relay armature. After turning the ignition switch, current will flow through the neutral safety switch and onto the relay. That flow of current then makes the relay coil live and closes the armature to allow current to effectively flow from the battery and down to the starter. Once the engine starts the the green wire from the voltage regulator should produce current that effectively causes the current flowing in the relay coil to stop and causing the armature to again open and thus stopping the flow of current to the starter. I think this then stops the starter from engaging longer than it should. Anyway, the relay is not operating as it should and it appears the current flowing in the relay coil is not stopping. When the engine is running I put a voltmeter between ground and the green wire from the voltage regulator and it only reads about 1 Volt which seems low. I am wondering whether that is the reason why the current flow in the relay coil does not stop. My question is whether anyone has experience with this issue or knows whether that voltage reading is normal? Thanks Drew
  13. Hmmm, so the washer fluid pump inside the washer bottle was not working so I took it out and released the 2 halves of the main body and the spring and other bits flew everywhere - I know I should have been ready as I knew there was a spring inside but in my defence I had no idea it was that big! Anyway, I am hoping I have subsequently remedied the issue stopping the pump from operating but of course I am now not exactly sure how the insides of the main body are configured. I have attempted to find some exploded view or similar on the Web or the Shop Manual but I have had no luck. When I opened up the main body, the parts that went flying and that I have found are: 1. a large metal spring about 6 inches long; and 2. a clear plastic rod about 2.5-3 inches long with a disc shaped base at one end; 3. a small metal spring. First of all I am hoping I have all the parts and I have not missed picking some part up off the floor? Secondly, can someone please confirm: 1. the small spring fits onto the plastic rod at the end opposite to the rod's disc end; and 2. the rod then sits into the bottom half of the pump body with the disc end at the bottom and the small spring pointing up; 3. the large metal spring then sits over the rod before the top and bottom halves of the pump body are again connected? Thanks Drew
  14. 56 Buick

    '54 Buick Roadmaster Riviera on BaT

    Maybe not the best place for the seller to have auctioned the car in order to reach the biggest market and highest sale price possible. Just my opinion. But someone did get a bargain.
  15. 56 Buick

    Query re 56 Special/Century wiper bezels

    Well it won't budge ... I am going to have to give this some more thought.