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Eclector

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Everything posted by Eclector

  1. I've searched the Frankin Service Station and ACN for info on a suitable modern spark plug that I can use on my Franklin 135. Temperature and reach seem to be critical factors in plug choice but there appears to be differing opinions about which temperature is optimum. I'm considering Champion 518 but wondering if there's a better/alternative choice for my type engine. Thanks
  2. Anybody know what's going on with the supply of replacement Model T Bendix drives? Seems to be on backorder at any place I check. Snyder's said that it's been that way since 2021. I am looking for a NOS or a good repro to buy. Thanks!
  3. Thanks, Bill. Using the Model T drive with the original Franklin spring would be a perfect solution, except for the fact that the Model T Bendix drives are out of stock everywhere right now. I'll probably pursue the repair option with spot mig welding. I can order the spring pin from Snyders or Lang's but wondering if I can get it into the assembly.
  4. UPDATE: I thank Hook (Bill) for his brilliant suggestion of modifying a 1/4-28 Dorman bleeder screw. I ordered a set of Dorman 13904 bleeder screws from Amazon. As Bill suggested, I cut off the pointed end and finished the rough edges. I tested the screw with a ¼-28 nut to ensure I had a good fit. The nipple of the Dorman bleeder is pretty small, and it didn't fit any of the tubing I normally use when bleeding brakes. Picked up some 3/16" ID PVC tubing, which worked well to divert the brake fluid to a catch vessel. Unfortunately, the nipple on the Dorman bleeder screw is very small, and there's not a lot of surface area to really secure the tubing to the nipple. The rear brakes were the most problematic because the close distance from the nipple to the car's chassis made it difficult to maintain a good seal from tube to nipple. Had to go back to the old-fashioned two-person bleeding process, with one person depressing the brake and the other opening and closing the main bleeder screw while securing the tube on the nipple. The front brakes were much easier. It all worked like a charm, and the brakes now function as they should. Thanks, everyone!
  5. I've bled brakes on many cars, but this is the first time I've encountered this type of bleeder fitting. I assume that it works as others do by turning to open. Checking the manual and looking at the threads on the inside diameter, it seems like a tube is intended to attach. I'm just curious as to how you are handling this. Thanks!
  6. I have a 1929 135 with a starter issue. The weight that is normally attached to the pinion gear has partially come loose. It can create a binding on the shaft that inhibits the deployment of the gear. It looks like the weight splines were originally kept in place by peening the individual splines against the back of the pinion gear. Otherwise, the gear is in fine shape; I just need to reattach the weight to the gear. There don't seem to be any drawings or descriptions that would apply to this assembly detail. There is one peen point intact. I am worried that additional peening could damage the connection points. I'm wondering about cleaning the area with solvent and then applying JB weld to the mating surfaces of the gear and weight. Am I correct in assuming that the main forces on the weight are rotational? Any other ideas from the Franklin hive?
  7. Rotus8, thank you so much! I just saw your article in the newsletter. Awesome job! I don't personally have access to some of the machine tools so I may have to explore other options. Akstraw, I'll attach a photo of my controller. Looks like you did a great job on yours. McMaster Carr is a great resource. I'll check it out. Would you happen to have a stock number or thickness that you used for the felt?
  8. Actually, I didn't post a photo for you to see the condition. The plates in mine are pretty severely chewed up from arcing. There's some aftermarket fingers that don't look all that great. My oiler is in place but I definitely need to replace the felt. What did you use for that?
  9. I've recently acquired a 1932 Detroit Electric Model 97. The controller needs to be cleaned up but also, I'd like to replace some of the plates and some of the fingers need help. Are there any resources for controller parts? OR Is there anyone out there who rebuilds these?
  10. I'm searching for a pair of fender lights for a model 130. I understand that they are smaller than those used on the 137 and 137. Would appreciate any leads.
  11. I have recently acquired a 130 that has everything converted to 12 volt positive ground EXCEPT for the generator which is still at 6 volts positive ground. Is there a means to rework the existing generator to charge 12 volts? How about an alternator option that might fit in the case? What manufacturer produced the original 130 generator?
  12. 1923 Depot Hack with a 1926 engine and who knows what else. Car starts and runs fine on battery Switching to magneto yields unpredictable results. Sometimes the switch from battery is seamless and car runs fine albeit with a slight increase in RPMs. At other times, the switch to magneto power results in marked roughness in the motor. Missing and rough to the point of stalling. Voltage measured at magneto post yields about 8.5 VAC at low idle. Volts increase commensurate with engine speed. Cleaned/Tightened all wiring connections at magneto post, terminal block and back of switch. Removed and cleaned the magneto post. While under magneto power, I have tried wriggling the key switch, wires and connections with no effect. So as a Model T and magneto newbie, I have some questions: I have not been able to find a good reference regarding the post. Should the contact point be sharp and needle like? Is there any guidance for making sure that everything regarding the post is set up properly? Assuming that the output of the magneto is good, what are the other areas that could possibly cause these symptoms? Am I correct in thinking that since everything works fine on battery, the problem is somewhere between the magneto post and the switch? Other than checking voltage output of the magneto, is there anything else I can measure or observe without tearing things apart? Any help is much appreciated, Steve
  13. Looking for a driveshaft for a model 130. Also door handles and fender lights for same. Also could use a whole bunch of OEM screws that someone ripped out and replaced with Philips heads.
  14. I'm looking for a driveshaft for a 1929 model 130 sedan. Please PM me if you have one or know of someone who might. Thanks!
  15. Looking for a set of hubcaps for a model 130 with wire wheels. Need 6. Thank you.
  16. I'm looking for both brake and clutch pedal levers as well as the pedal pads for my 1929 model 130. Let me know if you have them or know of someone who might. Thanks! Steve
  17. Looking for a driveshaft for my 1929 model 130. I understand that it is shorter than the 135 or 137 models. Let me know if you have one or know of someone who has one to sell. Thanks, Steve
  18. Spinneyhill, Foot brake on rear wheels contracting. Hand Brake linkage goes to rear wheels and then disappears inside so I'm assuming internal.
  19. 1924 Dodge Bros Roadster Driving forward, wheels will randomly lock up. Car is fully immobilized and can not go forward. Engine strains and will stall unless clutch is disengaged. Unable to push forward even in neutral or with clutch disengaged. Shifting to reverse allows the car to move backward without restriction. After doing this, you can put the car in a forward gear and move forward without restriction. The first time this happened, I heard what sounded like a clunk coming from beneath the floor. It was followed by a smell of burning rubber. That may have been due to tire skid, I don't know. Once it starts moving forward, everything seems to operate smoothly until it randomly happens again. Looking under the car, there is nothing that appears to be grossly out of place. Any ideas of what I'm looking at here? E brake link? Transmission? Clutch?
  20. 1924 DB Roadster When letting foot off gas to shift, there is often a very loud POP that comes from the tailpipe. Can also be replicated standing still by running engine at a higher than idle RPM (ie: 1,500 RPM) and then suddenly taking foot off the gas. Happens when car is warmed up. Spark is set at full advance, adjusting advance does not seem to affect it. Using an electric fuel pump Problem became noticeable on the last day of a 2,200 mile trip. Not a problem before that. This is NOT a backfire that comes from the carb but rather an afterfire that come from the tailpipe. I have heard a number of theories on the possible causes such as fuel mix to rich or possible leak in the exhaust system. Are these cars prone to this and if so, what are the likely causes? Thank you!
  21. I have a 1924 DB roadster. Should the radiator cap seal tightly using a gasket, O ring or the like? I find that sealing the cap tight, pressurizes the system which is good for a system designed for that but I understand these cars did not use a pressurized system. So seal the cap tight or not?
  22. 1924 Dodge Bros Roadster. Enough slop in the steering that it makes me very uncomfortable to drive, especially at speed. Main issue seems to be with the steering box. Other linkages seem to be okay and the steering wheel moves the wheels with ease once you get past the slop. I can't seem to find sources for parts needed for a rebuild. Open to any suggestions for finding parts or other solutions.
  23. I am looking to start fresh with some new trans oil in my '24 DB Roadster. I've been reading the various forum articles and a lot of folks seem to like the Meropa 1500 product that is repackaged as Lub164 as sold by Restoration Supply Co in CA. I've also read favorable comments about Penrite T-250. As far as I can tell, both products seem to be in the same viscosity range LUB164 is an ISO 1500 and Penrite is an SAE 250. Restoration Supply Co. sells both although, the Penrite product is significantly more. I don't know enough about oil specs to know if one product has a clear advantage over the other. I need someone to help me clarify the data as it pertains to these old gearboxes. Thank you.
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