Stooge

Did they make them for the smaller 248 and 263 engines? All of the Edmunds dual carburetor intakes and the Howards 6 carburetor intakes that i have come across, were all made for the larger 320 engines. I thought i remembered reading something to corroborate that at least the Edmunds ones were only made for the larger engines but that could be wrong.

I dont know what your time frame is, but if the 1937 leg supports that i made are the same as the 1939 supports, i think i have enough material or close to it, to make another pair if need be and im pretty easily swayed to make stuff! It might be hard, where it appears the mechanism was upholstered over, but if the dimensions for the latching mechanism and threaded inserts for the brackets in your 1939, are close enough to the 1937 seats, i could probably make you a set. I want to say center bolt to center bolt holding the bracket in place, was 1.75" but i would have to verify this weekend.

Fortunately i was pretty specific about the materials used in that post! Though i dont know if the 1937 leg/ support is similar enough to the 1939 seats, but let me know if you have any questions @Dan Buchacher @pont35cpe you were right the first time! the leg support was made for my 1937 Buick Century, the 1937 Plymouth was just in reference to another car i am working on.

I feel like the seller having someone give this a good once over, cut and buff could do alot for this car. The repainted door makes the rest of what seems like a pretty honest car, look a little dingy and in worse shape than it probably is, i think. I've always held a pretty big bias for the Oldsmobile, Buick and Pontiac GM brands, but i would expect this to be a mid to high teens priced car. Cars like this, that someone can get into and be driving reliably with a $15grand'ish budget, and without having to do a total rebuild on, is a great car to get into the hobby, while also being contemporary enough to not have much trouble driving around and enjoying. Plus, for a post war car, hard to find many better looking cars than any '49-'52 GM in my very biased opinion!

Thanks Gary! I understood your notes completely, and between yours and Matthew's pictures, i think i have it figured out. I just had a quick look through a few of the boxes based on the pictures, hoping to come up with the accelerator rod end block and trunion clevis pin, etc but nothing yet, (though i did find the missing door lock rod that i thought inwas going to have to make which was a nice surprise). I have another box of stuff at my garage that i'll check, but as long as i have the bracketry, i think i should be able to come up with some acceptable hardware to make it work. McMaster Carr carries a pretty big selection of clevis pins and rod ends but Im not above making sonething if need be. Thanks again guys! I really appreciate it!

Thanks Matthew! Those pictures answer alot! So correct me if im wrong, (all of these pictures are posting upside down if they look funny) Hand throttle tab Toeboard mounting bracket, (not a great picture) Actuating/pivot piece, -shallow channel for the pedal rod and clevis -upper U channel holes for a pivot pin to the toeboard mounting bracket -deep channel hole on the opposite side for accelerator rod and clevis to the carburetor and bent tab for the return spring? Thanks again!

Hi Everyone, Still plugging away on my Century coupe, and will be pulling the engine soon to start bodywork and paint, but am trying to get some things sorted while its still in. I have a handful of parts that i believe are the main linkage/ bracketry on the underside of the toeboard for the throttle pedal and hand throttle, but am not too sure of the configuration, what i may be missing or what hardware is used as my car was stripped and parted out at some point in it's life. Does anyone have pictures showing how the firewall/ toeboard throttle and springs are set up? I would imagine the 1938 models would be set up similarly. Thanks in advance! I have a few crates of parts to look through, but i believe these are some of the main parts

This one might seem a little silly, but i'd have to say that the cartoon short Susie The Little Blue Coupe from 1952, was probably my earliest car oriented memory that i remember seeing and paying attention to. I think it made me want a car with white walls when i was whatever single digit age that i saw it at, and now i have a car with white walls 😄

Hey a local sale! I live in Abington, and i think i have seen this around, though Mopar stuff of this the era isnt my strong suit, and i probably thought it was a Coronet as there are a few of them in the area. Looks like a tidy car for the price!

Hey Bob, thanks, i appreciate it, and no problem about not getting back, i figured you didnt have it when it didnt come with the seats, i had to ask just in case, (and it was fun to make the new handle and bracket). i had been meaning to shoot you some pictures of the seats set up last week. I was thinking of, and probably will at some point, of making another handle for the other side so they would match and could be polished up, but its fine for the time being and theres enough other stuff to do to keep me busy. If i get them reupholstered, i will definitely be making another one though. Thanks again for the smooth transaction!

There a guy in Monson, MA, and though he seems to do more of the custom/ hot rod side of things, he certainly seems very talented and could be worth reaching out to https://www.instagram.com/kustomitch/ https://www.thehogring.com/2020/06/09/meet-mitch-woloshchuk-mitchs-kustoms/

I dont know if i am a younger person these days at 33, but i have had , and worked on, cars that were older than me since i was about 22 or so. Aside from my new'ish daily driver, the current projects range from the mid 1980s to the late 1930s, and i have a little shop to work on my own personal projects as well as other's cars. currently with 4 on going projects and another 1 that just went to paint.

Not many cars are better looking to me, than '41 Buicks, and especially the coupes just have such a nice shape to them, and the first 3 posts are all beauties! Im not always the biggest fan of visors, but i have to say it actually looks pretty good on there, but more importantly, doesnt look goofy and out of place, and i think compliments the shape of the car. Great color too!

Hey, thank you, i really appreciate that! I'm just a hobbyist, but i like to be able to say that with whatever it is, that i tried to do the best job i could do and be proud of, with the resources i have. This car is sneakily getting nicer and nicer, so i'm trying to do right by it and do things the right way!

Theres a slightly off topic (hot rod) 1937 Plymouth coupe i am doing some metal repairs on for someone, thats keeping me busy, but i managed to get a few things done so i can bring the seats home and out of harms way with all of the other metal work going on. The seats were mostly complete, but one of the bottoms, was missing the handle/ leg support that actuates a latch to lock the seats into the buckets. The seller didnt think he had them, and never contacted me to say other wise, and i figured the likelihood of finding one was pretty slim so i started to cobble one together! Starting with some 304 stainless 1/4" rod, and a little chunk of 304 1/4" plate, stainless so that it could eventually be polished up. 20210614_180242 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210704_184403 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Eventually had a shape to somewhat match the toothed head to move the latch mechanism 20210704_202903 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Tig welded with 308L rod to the 1/4" rod and sanded down a bit, i left some of this stuff a little rough so there was enough material when i go to sand it down and polish everything. 20210704_205911 by Dan Haas, on Flickr For the bracket, i found a piece of .5 x 1.5 x .125 304 stainless rectangular tubing since i didnt think i would be too successful in replicating such a tight bend with the material thickness. 20210717_111328 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_111400 by Dan Haas, on Flickr A few layers of tape over the original bracket provided a little template 20210717_113657 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_114247 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_114526 by Dan Haas, on Flickr A few die grinders, files, some heat, a hammer and a vise later, i had this 20210717_123836 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_141614 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Originally, the handle was riveted to the bracket, so i'll either rivet it, or find some 'not so out of place' looking hardware keep the handle in place, so that it is removable if the need ever arises, and i wont have to cut a rivet out. 20210717_141657 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_142720 by Dan Haas, on Flickr (Ignore the flash rust on the new floor, it gets awfully hot and sweaty in there setting the seats up!) 20210717_144204 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I think whats left is to make the rear tab brackets for the seat buckets to secure them to the car floor, make some sort of pad or puck to reinforce the floor where the seat handle/ stand will sit, and figure out how/ where the side cushions secure to under the rear quarter windows. 20210717_144034 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

^ I was just about to reply about the steering wheel being refurbished/ recast by a previous owner, is a nice 'get' especially if it was rechromed at the same time. i've seen prices starting in the $1400 range for servicing a wheel, and going up from there. Looks good!

Just in case you wanted it, the wheel and tire page from the 1937 Service Manual.

That's unfortunate to hear about the one word answer, but i wouldnt worry too much about it. i know i have done it in social situations, sometimes your just not ready for a question, blurt something out and a few minutes later after you've walked away, you think, "eugh, why'd i say that!?" and dwell on it for a bit, or something. I dont know if i qualify as a younger person now at 33, but for atleast the last 12yrs, i've had cars that were older than me, and i really cant remember a time I thought i was being mistreated as a younger, old car enthusiast, or snubbing someone who is older. I'd have to say its pretty much the complete opposite, and everyone's always been pretty cool to me regardless of age, with any of my varied car interests, or people with higher priced cars, etc. Sure there are some obnoxious people in any group, and sometimes, i'll feel like i'm being quizzed by someone i'm just making small talk with, but nothing ever really malicious. I'll usually talk to anyone about anything as long as they aren't being an ass!

I forget which group it was, maybe a classic Buicks one since the person was talking about his new mid '50s Buick acquisition that seemed to be in good shape. Inevitably, he brought up needing to swap over to an Art Morrison frame, LS, tremec, etc. and when questioned why he didnt just get a new car, and that the stock stuff was more than adequate, replied with " i aint no poser!" followed by the too slow, cant steer, etc rhetoric. i couldn't help but think, do they not realize, they are essentially playing car dress up, with a safe new car underneath, with modern steering, modern brakes, new engine and trans, and wearing a 60+yr old costume, so it looks the part? I cant say that i am a staunch purist, i've always liked race cars and period correct traditional hot rods and customs, and aside from my close to stock, prewar buick, i have a not so old old, ('84) vehicle with very little original chassis underneath it and alot of other changes, so i get stuff like that to a point. I cant even say i dont like alot of the aftermarket chassis stuff with my varied car hobby interests, but at least dont be so goofy about it and degrade the original equipment as an excuse to pretend you need giant 6 piston brake calipers and a hopped up LS to bring the family out for ice cream cones. a mid 1950s car, maybe with a few period correct speed parts is infinitely more times interesting and cooler to me than a big billet, LS restomod, etc. car.

I havent had an excuse to personally use them, but I've always heard good things from local guys about Woodward Sping in Brockton, Mass. I think they are more geared toward trucks, but i've known old car guys to use them as well. (i believe this picture is the aftermath from a storm in 1938, and that they posted in reference to weathering the lockdowns storm last year)

I would imagine any of my local tire stores would probably have to order them in, or if you ordered them and brought them in to mount. The wheels that came on my car are not correct, and i think are from a post war/ late 1940's car so the width and offset are wrong, and i'lli need to find replacement wheels as well. For tires, i have been planning on using Diamondback Auburn Deluxe radials https://dbtires.com/product/auburn-deluxe-radial-15-16-sizes/ a bias ply look a like radial that people really seem to like, and I was pretty set on bias plies before hearing about them. I still dont know if i am doing blackwalls or whitewalls though, the price difference is forgettable, and every time i sort of decide, i see a car with the other choice and I'm back to square one.

Cant forget the usual handul of gun company stickers and maybe a Punisher comic book skull that are usually interspersed around there too! And here i thought i was being a little too ostentatious with a little smokey the bear sticker in the corner of the back window in my C10!

Beautiful looking car, and yours looks to be in good shape! While they look great with whitewalls, i do always enjoy seeing them, especially the sedans, with blackwall tires. Though I've flipped back and fourth a dozen times on which way to go on my 1937 Buick Century when it gets to that point.

Like a kid on christmas, i had to go play with my new seats and get them sorted, or atleast get them installed enough that i could bring them home and get them out of harms way at my shop and regular metal work and sparks. Acquired some 3/4" sanded on Thursday and by Sunday night had something resembling the rear folding opera seats, though i need to get the hardware i'll be using, since i just used what i had on hand. Started with a big cardboard template so i didnt risk messing up multiple sheets of plywood. 20210620_131811 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210625_104242 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210625_140212 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210625_153508 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I used threaded inserts on the backside to the corresponding factory brackets that were still in place, so i could take it in and out without having to fasten into the wood itself. I still need to make some tabs for the threaded brackets on the backside of the seat bucket tins. I dont remember a bracket there on the original floor, but alot of that area of the original floor was rotted out, so some simple brackets are not an issue. 20210627_121511 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210625_155821 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Unfortunately, it seems like the seller couldnt locate the missing leg post, or atleast i havent been told otherwise and its been a week or 2. I think the plan is to get a length of 3/8" polished stainless, and cobble together the latching/ block end, and break out the tig welder and weld them together to make a new handle for the missing side. Fortunately, it seems relatively simple and i have the one to copy. I was going to make a hardware order from McMaster Carr this morning for the seat and board fasteners, so i'll see what they have for stainless rod. 20210627_192256 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210627_192336 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Agreed with Ed on sourcing a replacement. i've done some tig and mig cast iron repairs, but for low stress parts like cracked exhaust manifolds and the like, where you can get a good pre heat, and post weld cool down, and the repairs are not really structural. Add to that, assuming the metal is contaminated with decades of use, i would have low expectations of a lasting repair. Having said that, crown alloys, harris, and most of the welding supplies manufacturers offer some kind of nickel wire and rod for welding cast alloys, depending on the weld method and budget you're using, if you want to give it a try, if you are the one doing the welding. if its a farmed out repair, i would source a new/ reman head and you'll be time and probably money ahead.