Stooge

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Everything posted by Stooge

  1. Stooge

    Why? Why?

    Aside from the car that isn't my taste, the houses you can see in the non-photo shopped backgrounds look like perfectly nice houses, and the ad would look a lot more 'normal' and probably wouldn't garner the negative attention if it wasn't so haphazardly edited like that
  2. Stooge

    Favorite Pictures of My Pre War Buick

    i dont know about favorite, but most current atleast, and was great to see it outside for the first time since January. Had to shuffle a few cars around at the shop and I was wanting to spin my Century around to make working on the passenger side a bit more convenient. I am mostly done with sheet metal work on the driver side, with the exception of an area in behind the front fenders, I just need to clear a safe spot to store those giant things
  3. Stooge

    Question on 1938 Century Master Cylinder

    Spinney and MC, the pictures and part numbers were exactly what i was looking for, now atleast i know what im looking for and how its set up. I've been trying to source some of the bigger parts my car was missing locally, but i need to put a list of brake and steering parts to ask dave about .
  4. Stooge

    Question on 1938 Century Master Cylinder

    that's part of the conundrum, I have seen several styles for the 1938 and 1937 60 and larger series cars and am having a time with which style would be the correct one to pursue, and more importantly, although I am pretty certain that I have the correct 1937 6 bolt top transmission for the car, making sure the master fits the side mounts. And these are actually pictures from your 1938 project thread that I've had saved as part of references for the master cylinder.
  5. Stooge

    Question on 1938 Century Master Cylinder

    By this, do you mean you had Bob's rebuild your master cylinder or you bought another master from them? I've seen he has the 37-38 series 80 and 90 for sale, but not the series 60. I've been having trouble finding a correct transmission side mount MC for my '37 Century since I bought it as a shell and didn't come with even a core/ candidate for rebuild one.
  6. Stooge

    Who Doesn't Like Photos

    That engine turned dash is a thing of absolute beauty! Saved to my buick pictures folder!
  7. Stooge

    !937 Buick 40 coupe running board trim

    Since I've been pretty certain my homemade running boards deviate in length slightly from the stock length trim, (nevermind not having the trim pieces themselves anyway) I've been considering going through Mcmillian to have some pieces made to fit, with the spear/pointed ends and mounting studs, although they do not have the correct ridges in them like the stock ones do. Fortunately I think I have the most of the stock side body trim, but im hoping the running board trim will be far enough away that it wont be too noticeable that they don't match. https://www.mcmillanrodandcustom.com/external_moldings_vents_accents.html
  8. I use something similar in a c10 truck that I have, though I built a dash for it and did not have a factory or speakers to connect to as it had been stripped by a previous owner, but also did not want any stereo face visible. Just mounted the very small amp, (about the length of a pen) under the dash and mounted the little remote between the seats to make changing songs or adjusting volume easier. Really easy to install, and just has the speaker receptacle connections as well as an auxiliary input. It can probably be found cheaper elsewhere by now, but its a great hidden stereo that just connects to my phone when I start it up without having to do anything https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206PXIB502/Kicker-40PXIBT50-2.html
  9. Stooge

    WTB 1937 parts

    I don't have a good enough in shape wheel or extra trim rings to sell and I made my own running boards, but I've had a few good buys on the 1937,1938 Buick Facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/672279276172233/ theres been a few sets of running boards listed there but tend to be for sedan bodies or in pretty bad shape
  10. I have a Bluetooth under dash stereo hardwired in one of my trucks since I didn't want to have a contemporary radio face in the dash, and I would say I have gotten 20-30ft away from it with my phone before the stereo loses it's signal. I would imagine most of that level of Bluetooth component is pretty similar across the board. I like the one I have in my truck, (kicker brand) since it has a little mountable remote so you don't have to futz with your phone to change the song or adjust the volume, but not sure what i'll do for my '37 Buick as it will be 6volt. I have been toying with the idea of getting one of those jumper packs/ 12v power charging sources and using that as a non permanently installed source for some sort of Bluetooth stereo and phone/gps power source without having to go 12v
  11. Stooge

    powder coat vs sandblasting and paint

    From what I can see on the cross rails, it looks to be pretty light surface rust and in great shape overall. I've been humming and hawing over deciding to do my frame myself with my no-name blaster pot I have that's been good for small parts, upgrade to something a little more capable, or farm that job out to one of those mobile outfits. My frame has good bones, but is pretty crusty on the outside, and I suppose for about the same cost as hiring someone, I could have my own more capable blaster since I have gotten a bigger and better air compressor that can handle something like that, versus the one I had when I acquired my current sand blaster. Concerning powder coat, a good friend of mine owns a commercial finishing shop, and the results I have seen with what powder coat can look like these days is really something else. I understand the statement about it sometimes looking thick and plasticy, and susceptible to chipping, and have seen many examples of both over the years. He's a big believer in powder coating wheels for the sake of ease of cleaning and durability, though the durability comes from prep, materials and practices used, and curing, with adequate curing seeming to be the biggest culprit in causing issues down the line, and with many shops not having a proper oven for it, the results can leave a bad taste in people's mouths. As he described it to me, when properly done and cured, its a very durable coating that will put up with years of regular driving, but to also think of it as a hard peppermint candy, really hard but when there is a good enough hit that its chipped or crack, its compromised. There's a good chance I will end up having the wheels and a few select pieces of steering and suspension off of my '37 powder coated, but some of the more susceptible pieces that may encounter rocks and road debris, will get painted. He's a good friend of mine and has offered to do whatever I need for free or for material cost, but I believe his price for wheels, depending on condition, to be around $100 per wheel.
  12. Stooge

    1938 Limited for sale on C/L - St Louis MO

    "WILL NOT LAST LONG" I bet it does last long! The 'Needs a little TLC in the body department' statement is pretty optimistic, from the pictures I don't see anything on the body that wouldn't need fairly invasive work to correct.
  13. Stooge

    Opinions On This 1936 Cadillac?

    First thought on this would be that the outdoor picture is the, 'this is what it could look like' picture that shows in in many craigslist ads to draw people in, plus if you click on the pictures, that first one displays in a significantly smaller size than the others, like it was downloaded picture, rather than from someone's camera like the rest of them. I would imagine the indoor pictures are what the car actually/ currently looks like.
  14. Stooge

    1937 Buick steering wheel

    I'll have a look at the spline count/ diameter this weekend, and if yours looks the same as the one Gary posted earlier, than i'll definitely be interested. Something very utilitarian about the standard wheel i'm really liking, especially for my car.
  15. Hi Buick Group, my name is Dan/ (Stooge on a few forums, Jalopyjournal, Garagejournal and a few others), I'm 30yrs old, this is my first Buick, though I've only ever owned GM brand cars, I work in a force laboratory and have a hobby shop on the side to putter around with some cars , both my own personal projects and for other people. I have a few off topic cars that I've been working on and recently started on my 1937 Century coupe, (series 60, although I believe it might be denoted as a series 66 ?) that I bought last year and saved from being turned into a rat rod as the previous owner was planning on swapping over onto a late model chevy Colorado chassis. I've worked on a few prewar cars for other people, but have mostly been front clipped hot rods, most notably a 1937 chevy panel truck and a 1937 Plymouth coupe. My current projects are finishing up a longer term 1966 GTO project for someone, a 1958 Edsel Villager station wagon that I am working on with a good buddy of mine who I flew out to Iowa with last year and trailered it back here to Massachusetts with, and of course my Century. The '37 had been pretty well stripped off a lot of the vital parts, (no engine, trans, steering column, seats/ interior) but did include a lot of parts, trim, brake cylinders, hardware, a lot of the interior/ window garnishings, door mechanisms, etc. all pretty well meticulously bagged and tagged as I think someone blew the car apart at one point in time, to either start a restoration or part it out. It will be a modest restoration, as I am planning on using the stock running gear, I have acquired a lowish mile 320 straight 8, I have the correct 1937 Big series 6 bolt 3 speed on its way to me being shipped from Texas from someone on a 1937-1938 Facebook group, and I will be using the stock century rear end and torque tube, along with the stock steering , (still need a column, steering gear box and pitman arm), stock brakes, and I am keeping it 6volt with using either a Rhode Island Wiring or YNZ stock harness with turn signals added. the only planned areas for deviation are a multi-carb intake and a fabricated exhaust. The interior will probably be fairly bare bones for a bit and I will be happy when I even have a correct looking split bench seat, ( upholstery is something I don't have the skills for yet and I can see budget being an issue with some of the costs of stock interiors I have seen). After reading stories on here (49 Buick Supers excellent RT 66 thread here and countless threads over on the HAMB forums), part of the end goal for the last couple of years and what I had in mind buying this car, is I would really like to take it on some nice extended driving excursions when its finished. Some pictures to get started!
  16. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    And I know this is the prewar buick section, but still something I've been working on in the shop and so you guys to think im too lazy, a few of the '58 Edsel project, and trying to save the driver side fender And the 'cavity' behind the driver side grill area, (fender is upside down on the stand in these pictures) Im leaving this area a little rough for the time being until I get to the outer headlight bucket. The headlight area is really falling apart and grinding and sanding this area will cause a lot of commotion and may cause further damage before I have a chance to copy whats left of the original.
  17. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    Still plugging away on the Century, I had a little bit of a stall between an irritated sciatica, the heat/ humidity, working on a few other projects and I had been dragging my feet until I had some parts in hand so I didn't have to guess so much. Firstly, the last big puzzle piece that's been holding up finishing the floor, a split bench seat that fit my price range. I knew I was going to have to have it reupholstered, so I had to figure that into the budget, but I am pretty happy with it. It will stay bare for the time being since its a ways away from being really needed and I would hate to mess up a freshly done seat while im still heavy into metal and body work. Getting this is allowing me to finally button up the floor, as I didn't want to finish it, and have to go back over it and change what I had already done. a few parts to make that I've been putting off. First tacked in the driver side floor pan, rear and inner divider facing edges overlap, and the forward and side facing edges are butt welded. Overlapping edges are primed and painted on the sandwiched edges, drilled holes in the top piece, and the marked off on the lower piece accordingly, kissed with a carbide bit to remove the paint from the lower for a poor man's spot weld. in the vein of full disclosure, the seat is out of a similar year Lasalle, but was within a few hr drive and fits both the car perfectly, as well as my budget perfectly. First was making a new rear outer rocker, same way I did the driver side rocker so I had a better starting idea. Left out the door sill steps on this one and will make them in a separate piece to make it a little neater, lesson learned from making it out of one piece on the driver side. Replaces the panel a previous owner made with a lot of pie cuts to make the body line rib and held in with a dozen self tapping screws. Looked to be made from galvanized. Next was making a replacement piece of the inner body structure that's affixed to the side of the floor pan. Seems a lot easier to replace this piece and get it and the inner and outer rockers welded in before the floor pan just from an accessibility standpoint. Driver side piece was in good shape and didn't require making a new piece. Nice and simple, basically guessed some measurements since it was rotted apart in the middle and traced some of the original
  18. Stooge

    1937 Buick steering wheel

    I hadn't seen the black 3 spoke steering wheel before, but I have to say that I'm really digging it! My Century was missing the steering column when I bought it, but it came with a banjo wheel, (missing the grip) and horn ring so I'm not really sure what was original to the car. might have to keep my eyes peeled for a 3 spoke wheel, even at least for the interim since getting my wheel refinished will cost a pretty penny.
  19. Stooge

    71Riviera questions

    a 12" cherrybomb just sounds loud sitting at my desk! I have dual Porter steel packs on my c10, that are about twice that length and although they sound great, they are on the cusp of being questionably loud and I try not to start it up too early if its parked outside. I've used a few different flavors of Dynomax mufflers, and have generally been happy with them, though they have a few race/ turbo style mufflers that are basically just straight through and sound like it, but they have some good budget friendly mufflers that wont make you hate driving, as well as some quiet design ones to mimic a stock style muffler. Borla has a few offerings that can be tame enough at idle, have a really nice sound when stepping on it, but they can be fairly expensive. I've never been a fan of the sound of flowmasters and the last few times I've used magnaflows on cars, they have had a lot of cabin drone and get old quickly.
  20. Stooge

    1937 Buick 40 coupe trunk hardware ??

    Im not sure if it is original to the car as the primer on it does not match anything else, but the trunk lid that came on my 1937 66 Century coupe did not seem to have any holes previously filled from a license plate bracket or light, and only has the taillight plate mount. The handle for the trunk is the T shaped one which does seem original to the car, as it was boxed with the door and window handles and seems to match the wear of them.
  21. Stooge

    WTB 1937/38 Buick steering wheel

    I've had her ebay store as well as regular website saved and have purchased a few things, but didn't realize she regularly gets them recast. Really not a bad deal compared to some of the prices I've seen thrown around, for $625 if you have a usable core return, i'll probably go through her when I get closer to that point with my Century.
  22. Stooge

    WTB 1937/38 Buick steering wheel

    Unfortunately, i'm no help there as the steering wheel for my '37 is completely missing the grip and is just the inner core that someone wrapped in electrical tape at some point.
  23. Stooge

    WTB 1937/38 Buick steering wheel

    Theres been one up on Ebay for a while now, its a recast and the price reflects that, though there is a $150 USD core charge included in the price Honestly, it really isn't too bad compared to the prices I've seen for having a wheel recast, but still a little rich for me! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-Buick-Ivory-Steering-Wheel-Recast/401374226948?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  24. As I am slowly piecing together parts as funds allow, and before I try and call Dave, I am looking for a transmission for my '37 century coupe , or at least an interchangeable one, to go behind my 320 straight 8 with the torque tube, factory rear. Located in the Boston area, but willing to travel although i am on a bit of a budget. Any leads would be appreciated, thank you!
  25. Thank you for taking the time to check up on it, but I have since sourced the correct transmission for the 320 in my Century, although I am still looking for 2 of the replacement gears, ( albeit casually looking as I have a full plate of metal and body work to do) as well as I need to find the parts for the clutch and fork. I had heard of the grand Cherokee clutch for the smaller straight 8's, but I had not heard of people using a 70s ford clutch. I 'll have to reach out to him when I get closer to that stage, thanks!