Stooge

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Everything posted by Stooge

  1. Stooge

    Twelve Dilapitated Lincolns 1925 to 1938

    I'm a bit curious as to who the type of person bidding on these cars is, (although the bidding history is slightly suspect as it appears 1 person upping the price versus 1 other bidder coming in later), as this can only be losing investment for anyone who didn't inherit the cars, especially at what is basically $10k a pop. I may be a bit ignorant on prices for driver quality 20s and 30s Lincoln stuff, but for even the one I find most desirable, one of the '29s I believe, and as someone who likes a nice, overwhelming project, i couldn't see it going for more than $4 or $5k in its current condition from what I see looking for project cars.
  2. Picture from 1940, predominantly of a grocery store and a ford, but on the right side, looks like a 1937 Buick that's had a bit of an accident larger version here, on Shorpy http://www.shorpy.com/node/24036?size=_original#caption
  3. Stooge

    1938 66S Elec Fuel Pump

    Carter makes a readily available 6V pump,(maybe $70ish?), that works well and I have used several times before in both 6 and 12v, (same pump style, just 12v) applications, and I very much agree on using a safety switch on it incase something were to happen. i like using an oil pressure switch in line of them, so in case the engine stalls and dies, the lack of oil pressure stops the fuel pump.
  4. Stooge

    Anyone got one?

    i have seen that picture before, but I really just assumed it was from some Buster Keaton/ Harold lloyd type movie
  5. Hi Buick Group, my name is Dan/ (Stooge on a few forums, Jalopyjournal, Garagejournal and a few others), I'm 30yrs old, this is my first Buick, though I've only ever owned GM brand cars, I work in a force laboratory and have a hobby shop on the side to putter around with some cars , both my own personal projects and for other people. I have a few off topic cars that I've been working on and recently started on my 1937 Century coupe, (series 60, although I believe it might be denoted as a series 66 ?) that I bought last year and saved from being turned into a rat rod as the previous owner was planning on swapping over onto a late model chevy Colorado chassis. I've worked on a few prewar cars for other people, but have mostly been front clipped hot rods, most notably a 1937 chevy panel truck and a 1937 Plymouth coupe. My current projects are finishing up a longer term 1966 GTO project for someone, a 1958 Edsel Villager station wagon that I am working on with a good buddy of mine who I flew out to Iowa with last year and trailered it back here to Massachusetts with, and of course my Century. The '37 had been pretty well stripped off a lot of the vital parts, (no engine, trans, steering column, seats/ interior) but did include a lot of parts, trim, brake cylinders, hardware, a lot of the interior/ window garnishings, door mechanisms, etc. all pretty well meticulously bagged and tagged as I think someone blew the car apart at one point in time, to either start a restoration or part it out. It will be a modest restoration, as I am planning on using the stock running gear, I have acquired a lowish mile 320 straight 8, I have the correct 1937 Big series 6 bolt 3 speed on its way to me being shipped from Texas from someone on a 1937-1938 Facebook group, and I will be using the stock century rear end and torque tube, along with the stock steering , (still need a column, steering gear box and pitman arm), stock brakes, and I am keeping it 6volt with using either a Rhode Island Wiring or YNZ stock harness with turn signals added. the only planned areas for deviation are a multi-carb intake and a fabricated exhaust. The interior will probably be fairly bare bones for a bit and I will be happy when I even have a correct looking split bench seat, ( upholstery is something I don't have the skills for yet and I can see budget being an issue with some of the costs of stock interiors I have seen). After reading stories on here (49 Buick Supers excellent RT 66 thread here and countless threads over on the HAMB forums), part of the end goal for the last couple of years and what I had in mind buying this car, is I would really like to take it on some nice extended driving excursions when its finished. Some pictures to get started!
  6. Stooge

    Found a phone book from 1954

    But notice the Pontiac ambulance is owned by a mortuary! (top of the ad)
  7. Stooge

    Battery disconnect switch, yes or no?

    I used one in my last project, and intend to use one again in my current Buick project, for as much of a safety/ isolating standpoint as an antitheft device, or atleast an antitheft inconvenience. I had originally tried using a cheaper one and was causing issues before the truck was even on the road, and ended up going with a much more stout and robust Flaming River switch, which also features a removable key that you insert and twist, though I've generally left it in place. "hidden" behind the passenger seat so I can reach over from the driver's seat without it being a hassle.
  8. Posting these from my phone at my shop earlier, i left out several pertinent ones to the smaller mounting holes
  9. Here are the driver side measurements, i tried to include some reference point on whatever ruler i was usin, but let me know if you need anything else
  10. Will do! I would have to imagine, the gm split bench seatbacks of that era were the same across the board, with the main difference I've found in the handful of seats I came across trying to buy one being the position of the handle to adjust the position forwards and backwards. even the track itself that came on the lasalle seat, is identical to the track that came with my car....just with no seat attached to it....thanks to whoever was trying to part the car out at one point
  11. Also, great write up on your issues with the coil springs, as that has been something I have been contemplating replacing when I refurbish the front end. they seem to be in good shape, but its one of those, "while i'm doing this, I might as well...". How are the replacement rear leaf springs working? same jarring effect as the new front coils? I do not see any broken leafs, they do not have their protective cover anymore, but seem to be in tact. Im not sure if having the car blown apart for, conservatively the last 30+ yrs with no weight on them has been advantageous or detrimental for their condition. Both came from Eaton, correct?
  12. Gary, if this looks like it is familiar to your seat back, ( although my seats were out of a Lasalle) I will be at my shop in a few hrs and can take some measurements, though the large holes look very similar to Carl's picture
  13. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    And a little work on the edsel fender im still working on here and there, but started to fill up the large hole around the headlight bucket. Decided to make the raised body line in a separate piece of material to make it a bit more manageable for myself, but still need to make a wooden hammer form for it Don't mind the all over the place cleco clamps, the original metal in this area is pretty soft and I was having a time trying to find spots that they would actually hold. This new piece is further along than what I have pictures of, added a nice bead/ flange around the edge that goes to the other new piece to mimic the factory shape where the driver side grille seats up against that flange.
  14. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    Some progress being made in an effort to start body working and high fill primer by the end of the year. Rolled the Century out of the shop to move a few cars around and also to spin the Buick around so I could more conveniently work on the passenger side. There's still some paint hiding around in some crevices around the front fenders, and I didn't touch the hood or trunk, but I did a solid first pass with some fairly coarse sanding discs to knock down the old paint and crusty surface rust, and started clearing a few dents that I've found. not many surprises around the body with the paint off, no surprise filler anywhere, a few spots of brazing on the rear passenger fender flange, and some more brazing around the tail pan but that will just be cleaned up as it was done well enough. a few small areas that will get cut out and replaced with new metal, but for the most part, some areas will be treated with a rust neutralizer after a few more sanding passes on the bare body. And started cutting out the passenger side door sill/ rocker areas. Had to make a handful of pieces, including the inner body structure, the inner rocker rail, a new outer rocker skin, and a new outer door sill piece, and have been busy getting those in and looking right, still have some massaging to do with the sill, and I ended up pie cutting most of the length of it to make for a better fit, so it looks a little askew but will look right when done, as the sill corner isn't welded in yet, and the bottom of the sill hasn't been welded to the inner rocker so its just sort of hanging there. Not the prettiest of welds, just slowly tacked into place, but was cleaned up later Start of making the new door sill Added the weather stripping channel to the top, not a million miles off, just the front facing edge came out a little bigger than anticipated which later required some cutting and refitting, but not bad for the side of a table and some stuff I've collected over the years to hammer metal over First pass cleaning up the joining edges of the new and old outer rocker, still a few more passes to clean it up, but that's about where I am with it,
  15. Stooge

    Why? Why?

    Aside from the car that isn't my taste, the houses you can see in the non-photo shopped backgrounds look like perfectly nice houses, and the ad would look a lot more 'normal' and probably wouldn't garner the negative attention if it wasn't so haphazardly edited like that
  16. Stooge

    Favorite Pictures of My Pre War Buick

    i dont know about favorite, but most current atleast, and was great to see it outside for the first time since January. Had to shuffle a few cars around at the shop and I was wanting to spin my Century around to make working on the passenger side a bit more convenient. I am mostly done with sheet metal work on the driver side, with the exception of an area in behind the front fenders, I just need to clear a safe spot to store those giant things
  17. Stooge

    Question on 1938 Century Master Cylinder

    Spinney and MC, the pictures and part numbers were exactly what i was looking for, now atleast i know what im looking for and how its set up. I've been trying to source some of the bigger parts my car was missing locally, but i need to put a list of brake and steering parts to ask dave about .
  18. Stooge

    Question on 1938 Century Master Cylinder

    that's part of the conundrum, I have seen several styles for the 1938 and 1937 60 and larger series cars and am having a time with which style would be the correct one to pursue, and more importantly, although I am pretty certain that I have the correct 1937 6 bolt top transmission for the car, making sure the master fits the side mounts. And these are actually pictures from your 1938 project thread that I've had saved as part of references for the master cylinder.
  19. Stooge

    Question on 1938 Century Master Cylinder

    By this, do you mean you had Bob's rebuild your master cylinder or you bought another master from them? I've seen he has the 37-38 series 80 and 90 for sale, but not the series 60. I've been having trouble finding a correct transmission side mount MC for my '37 Century since I bought it as a shell and didn't come with even a core/ candidate for rebuild one.
  20. Stooge

    Who Doesn't Like Photos

    That engine turned dash is a thing of absolute beauty! Saved to my buick pictures folder!
  21. Stooge

    !937 Buick 40 coupe running board trim

    Since I've been pretty certain my homemade running boards deviate in length slightly from the stock length trim, (nevermind not having the trim pieces themselves anyway) I've been considering going through Mcmillian to have some pieces made to fit, with the spear/pointed ends and mounting studs, although they do not have the correct ridges in them like the stock ones do. Fortunately I think I have the most of the stock side body trim, but im hoping the running board trim will be far enough away that it wont be too noticeable that they don't match. https://www.mcmillanrodandcustom.com/external_moldings_vents_accents.html
  22. I use something similar in a c10 truck that I have, though I built a dash for it and did not have a factory or speakers to connect to as it had been stripped by a previous owner, but also did not want any stereo face visible. Just mounted the very small amp, (about the length of a pen) under the dash and mounted the little remote between the seats to make changing songs or adjusting volume easier. Really easy to install, and just has the speaker receptacle connections as well as an auxiliary input. It can probably be found cheaper elsewhere by now, but its a great hidden stereo that just connects to my phone when I start it up without having to do anything https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206PXIB502/Kicker-40PXIBT50-2.html
  23. Stooge

    WTB 1937 parts

    I don't have a good enough in shape wheel or extra trim rings to sell and I made my own running boards, but I've had a few good buys on the 1937,1938 Buick Facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/672279276172233/ theres been a few sets of running boards listed there but tend to be for sedan bodies or in pretty bad shape
  24. I have a Bluetooth under dash stereo hardwired in one of my trucks since I didn't want to have a contemporary radio face in the dash, and I would say I have gotten 20-30ft away from it with my phone before the stereo loses it's signal. I would imagine most of that level of Bluetooth component is pretty similar across the board. I like the one I have in my truck, (kicker brand) since it has a little mountable remote so you don't have to futz with your phone to change the song or adjust the volume, but not sure what i'll do for my '37 Buick as it will be 6volt. I have been toying with the idea of getting one of those jumper packs/ 12v power charging sources and using that as a non permanently installed source for some sort of Bluetooth stereo and phone/gps power source without having to go 12v