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Everything posted by Stooge

  1. Stooge

    powder coat vs sandblasting and paint

    From what I can see on the cross rails, it looks to be pretty light surface rust and in great shape overall. I've been humming and hawing over deciding to do my frame myself with my no-name blaster pot I have that's been good for small parts, upgrade to something a little more capable, or farm that job out to one of those mobile outfits. My frame has good bones, but is pretty crusty on the outside, and I suppose for about the same cost as hiring someone, I could have my own more capable blaster since I have gotten a bigger and better air compressor that can handle something like that, versus the one I had when I acquired my current sand blaster. Concerning powder coat, a good friend of mine owns a commercial finishing shop, and the results I have seen with what powder coat can look like these days is really something else. I understand the statement about it sometimes looking thick and plasticy, and susceptible to chipping, and have seen many examples of both over the years. He's a big believer in powder coating wheels for the sake of ease of cleaning and durability, though the durability comes from prep, materials and practices used, and curing, with adequate curing seeming to be the biggest culprit in causing issues down the line, and with many shops not having a proper oven for it, the results can leave a bad taste in people's mouths. As he described it to me, when properly done and cured, its a very durable coating that will put up with years of regular driving, but to also think of it as a hard peppermint candy, really hard but when there is a good enough hit that its chipped or crack, its compromised. There's a good chance I will end up having the wheels and a few select pieces of steering and suspension off of my '37 powder coated, but some of the more susceptible pieces that may encounter rocks and road debris, will get painted. He's a good friend of mine and has offered to do whatever I need for free or for material cost, but I believe his price for wheels, depending on condition, to be around $100 per wheel.
  2. Stooge

    1938 Limited for sale on C/L - St Louis MO

    "WILL NOT LAST LONG" I bet it does last long! The 'Needs a little TLC in the body department' statement is pretty optimistic, from the pictures I don't see anything on the body that wouldn't need fairly invasive work to correct.
  3. Stooge

    Opinions On This 1936 Cadillac?

    First thought on this would be that the outdoor picture is the, 'this is what it could look like' picture that shows in in many craigslist ads to draw people in, plus if you click on the pictures, that first one displays in a significantly smaller size than the others, like it was downloaded picture, rather than from someone's camera like the rest of them. I would imagine the indoor pictures are what the car actually/ currently looks like.
  4. Stooge

    1937 Buick steering wheel

    I'll have a look at the spline count/ diameter this weekend, and if yours looks the same as the one Gary posted earlier, than i'll definitely be interested. Something very utilitarian about the standard wheel i'm really liking, especially for my car.
  5. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    And I know this is the prewar buick section, but still something I've been working on in the shop and so you guys to think im too lazy, a few of the '58 Edsel project, and trying to save the driver side fender And the 'cavity' behind the driver side grill area, (fender is upside down on the stand in these pictures) Im leaving this area a little rough for the time being until I get to the outer headlight bucket. The headlight area is really falling apart and grinding and sanding this area will cause a lot of commotion and may cause further damage before I have a chance to copy whats left of the original.
  6. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    Still plugging away on the Century, I had a little bit of a stall between an irritated sciatica, the heat/ humidity, working on a few other projects and I had been dragging my feet until I had some parts in hand so I didn't have to guess so much. Firstly, the last big puzzle piece that's been holding up finishing the floor, a split bench seat that fit my price range. I knew I was going to have to have it reupholstered, so I had to figure that into the budget, but I am pretty happy with it. It will stay bare for the time being since its a ways away from being really needed and I would hate to mess up a freshly done seat while im still heavy into metal and body work. Getting this is allowing me to finally button up the floor, as I didn't want to finish it, and have to go back over it and change what I had already done. a few parts to make that I've been putting off. First tacked in the driver side floor pan, rear and inner divider facing edges overlap, and the forward and side facing edges are butt welded. Overlapping edges are primed and painted on the sandwiched edges, drilled holes in the top piece, and the marked off on the lower piece accordingly, kissed with a carbide bit to remove the paint from the lower for a poor man's spot weld. in the vein of full disclosure, the seat is out of a similar year Lasalle, but was within a few hr drive and fits both the car perfectly, as well as my budget perfectly. First was making a new rear outer rocker, same way I did the driver side rocker so I had a better starting idea. Left out the door sill steps on this one and will make them in a separate piece to make it a little neater, lesson learned from making it out of one piece on the driver side. Replaces the panel a previous owner made with a lot of pie cuts to make the body line rib and held in with a dozen self tapping screws. Looked to be made from galvanized. Next was making a replacement piece of the inner body structure that's affixed to the side of the floor pan. Seems a lot easier to replace this piece and get it and the inner and outer rockers welded in before the floor pan just from an accessibility standpoint. Driver side piece was in good shape and didn't require making a new piece. Nice and simple, basically guessed some measurements since it was rotted apart in the middle and traced some of the original
  7. Stooge

    1937 Buick steering wheel

    I hadn't seen the black 3 spoke steering wheel before, but I have to say that I'm really digging it! My Century was missing the steering column when I bought it, but it came with a banjo wheel, (missing the grip) and horn ring so I'm not really sure what was original to the car. might have to keep my eyes peeled for a 3 spoke wheel, even at least for the interim since getting my wheel refinished will cost a pretty penny.
  8. Stooge

    71Riviera questions

    a 12" cherrybomb just sounds loud sitting at my desk! I have dual Porter steel packs on my c10, that are about twice that length and although they sound great, they are on the cusp of being questionably loud and I try not to start it up too early if its parked outside. I've used a few different flavors of Dynomax mufflers, and have generally been happy with them, though they have a few race/ turbo style mufflers that are basically just straight through and sound like it, but they have some good budget friendly mufflers that wont make you hate driving, as well as some quiet design ones to mimic a stock style muffler. Borla has a few offerings that can be tame enough at idle, have a really nice sound when stepping on it, but they can be fairly expensive. I've never been a fan of the sound of flowmasters and the last few times I've used magnaflows on cars, they have had a lot of cabin drone and get old quickly.
  9. Stooge

    1937 Buick 40 coupe trunk hardware ??

    Im not sure if it is original to the car as the primer on it does not match anything else, but the trunk lid that came on my 1937 66 Century coupe did not seem to have any holes previously filled from a license plate bracket or light, and only has the taillight plate mount. The handle for the trunk is the T shaped one which does seem original to the car, as it was boxed with the door and window handles and seems to match the wear of them.
  10. Stooge

    WTB 1937/38 Buick steering wheel

    I've had her ebay store as well as regular website saved and have purchased a few things, but didn't realize she regularly gets them recast. Really not a bad deal compared to some of the prices I've seen thrown around, for $625 if you have a usable core return, i'll probably go through her when I get closer to that point with my Century.
  11. Stooge

    WTB 1937/38 Buick steering wheel

    Unfortunately, i'm no help there as the steering wheel for my '37 is completely missing the grip and is just the inner core that someone wrapped in electrical tape at some point.
  12. Stooge

    WTB 1937/38 Buick steering wheel

    Theres been one up on Ebay for a while now, its a recast and the price reflects that, though there is a $150 USD core charge included in the price Honestly, it really isn't too bad compared to the prices I've seen for having a wheel recast, but still a little rich for me!
  13. As I am slowly piecing together parts as funds allow, and before I try and call Dave, I am looking for a transmission for my '37 century coupe , or at least an interchangeable one, to go behind my 320 straight 8 with the torque tube, factory rear. Located in the Boston area, but willing to travel although i am on a bit of a budget. Any leads would be appreciated, thank you!
  14. Thank you for taking the time to check up on it, but I have since sourced the correct transmission for the 320 in my Century, although I am still looking for 2 of the replacement gears, ( albeit casually looking as I have a full plate of metal and body work to do) as well as I need to find the parts for the clutch and fork. I had heard of the grand Cherokee clutch for the smaller straight 8's, but I had not heard of people using a 70s ford clutch. I 'll have to reach out to him when I get closer to that stage, thanks!
  15. Stooge


    im instagram friends with the owner of this car, and he has a build thread over on the Hamb. I love a good custom and he has a huge amount of really nice work into that car and is all very detailed. I came across these this morning, I don't remember seeing them posted but 1929 Buick hearse from Argentina
  16. Stooge

    1940 Running Boards

    I don't have a source for new running boards, but if your feeling crafty and want to waste some time trying it out and learning from my mistakes, here are 2 of the main posts in my thread from when I was making my running boards, although there are some other posts pertaining to them sprinkled in the thread. I will be using the generic beaded rubber mats and trimming them to fit when I get to that point. I think I have under $20 into them and that was for hardware. I also reshaped the front and rear fender facing sides after the first post
  17. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    just held in with a few magents over the existing metal Just a first pass, still need to fill a few areas and pretty it up a bit, but happy enough with it and the passenger side should go a little easier now that I have an idea of what to do Also remade the end of the torque tube tunnel and got the rear piece tacked in as well as the tunnel piece.
  18. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    Some forward progress on what is becoming rebuilding the bottom half of the car. I needed to start the inner and outer rear rocker repairs before I could get the flat floor pans welded in since it gave me a lot more access to the back side of everything with the floor out. The cheap eastwood bead roller is earning its keep, though it might need some reinforcing with stuff like this, but honestly if I can get what needs to get done on the buick, and the bead roller is complete trash afterwards, money well spent
  19. Stooge


    Unfortunately, I can not help you there, but the accompanying caption where I found the picture reads; Somewhere in New Mexico: 1956. On the road back to California from Florida, May 28, 1956. Cropped left side of image as it had the "end of roll" light leak. I'll bet the train was long enough for my dad to stop the car, get out the camera and have my mom pose. And just because I have it handy, the caption for the mechanic in coveralls picture, June 1943. "Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Miss Natalie O'Donald, attendant at the Atlantic Refining Company garages." A Gibson Girl in coveralls. Medium format negative by Jack Delano for the Office of War Information.
  20. Stooge

    New Classic Buick Owner

    Congratulations on the new purchase, it sure is beautiful! More pictures please when you get the chance!
  21. Stooge


    A few I've found recently
  22. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    A big step in metal work progress over the weekend, although it did uncover some new work in the form of inner rocker panels/ bottom of the body structure behind the door sills which was a little worse than I was thinking, but theres not much left after that. I am aiming for spraying some high fill primer in august, so I have some time for the rest of the planned metal work, an am actually taking next week off from work, and aside from a few planned things, most of the time will be spent getting the Buick's sheet metal sorted. I still need to make a piece to finish off the torque tube tunnel end that I had to cut out due to rot, but that shouldn't be too bad. Overall I am pretty happy with the fit of everything. i added a few bead rolls to the lower pans on the rear piece, along with the stepped center and added a rectangular step across the top of the rear piece to give it a little more rigidity.
  23. Stooge

    Pre war cars insane prices

    its a hobby, why would I want to worry myself about what my car is going to be worth in 5 yrs if im enjoying it during that time? I have no idea what my car will be worth when its on the road, ('37 century series 66 coupe) but I know about how much I have into, (about $4k including the $2600 purchase price) and an idea of what I will have into it when i'm done (probably around $10k), neither of which factor in to anything having to do with how much i will enjoy it. Obviously the Canadian market is going to be a little different, but I have thought the opposite lately, that the average pre war car, running and driving but not an over the top restoration, prices seem to be pretty stable and pretty affordable depending on what you are looking at spending or what you are comfortable working on. I'm 30, in no way am i wealthy, but with several cars and am working on my 3rd and 4th ground up builds simultaneously because there's little chance i could afford to buy someone's shiny complete car, that they are probably losing money on selling. i'm not sure if i fall into the "younger people" crowd, but the generalization that younger people done have the want or ability or financing to work on or own older cars is just silly. there's plenty of young ambitious talent out there, and i see more and more young people looking at older cars to build lately, and with working on cars for people in their 50s or 60s, you see budgeting and tightening the purse strings is something that in no way effects only people under 30 or 40.
  24. Stooge


    1935 Display car
  25. Stooge

    '37 Century Modest Restoration

    Also cobbled together some running board brackets, may not look like much and will never be seen, but they work and are pretty strong, at least enough to not flex at all when I stand on them ( a svelte 6'1, 225). just some 1x2 1/8 wall rectangular tubing, some weld nuts and some 90* bent steel plate, (slightly prettier than angle iron) I had from work, and the only place any money was spent on the running boards, some 1/2-13 weld nuts and flange bolts Some weld nuts for the bottom rails of the running boards. the rails are just quickly stitched in and will get final welded later on, this was just sort of a test idea I had and wanted to see if it would work. the front outside bolt mount will get a shim to kick it up a hair so it sits flush with the front fender and I still need to trim a few spots where the sheet metal of the board is hitting the bolts on the frame bracket.