Bdad

Is there a link to the public on the process for replacing that seal? I seem to get a lot of heat around the base of the steering column and am thinking the seal has gone bad.

Need some help with this tag. Working from a pic that is really poor quality 04E WX-2KR-4F-5KW 65-49447 FB 196813 Appreciate the decode ring result

Anyone point me to a step by step walk thru of removing the door skin; cleaning the window track, replacing the felt/mohair? I replaced the motor on the drivers side window but it's still slow and it needs cleanup. Hoping someone has done this and documented what's needed, etc. Richard

I replaced the motor on the drivers door window and it's still sluggish and needs help. So, either the skin comes off again and then I clean out the build up from the years or I try the WD40 solution to see if it helps.

Mechanic checked the front end and said everything is in good shape and nothing of note. If I wanted to look into a faster ration box where might I go to read and what product/suppliers to consider? I'm not looking for equivalent to modern cars but a bit better might nice.

When driving the front end feels light and a bit touch. It takes active effort on my part to drive. Nothing pulls. It just feels really light. Maybe it's the power steering? Anyone seen this and is there a way to address it?

BJ?

My '63 Riv

I ended up buying the Meguire's detail spray. Worked well. No issues.

Got the '63 back from the shop today. They recharged the 134 but can't get any air to blow out of the vent in the middle of the dash. They couldn't figure out why. Anyone have this situation and a solution?

2nd view of slip plate coating on exhaust manifolds. They go back on the car next Monday. Blasting shop said the manifolds were in good shape and that they used 1 can to spray both but really could have done with 1/2 a can. So they got multiple coats.

1 view of manifolds with Slip Plate coating.

Exhaust Manifolds off the car at the sand blasting shop

When researching it I read posts in Ford, chevy and other forums from those who used it. They said it dries and binds with the iron and doesn't rub off. Those who said they tried it gave it positive reviews with no reports of problems. We'll see.

Just dropped the car off. Will share pics of before and after.

Solved. I took some Dawn and gently coated both the surface of the pillar seals and the metal as well. I also went to the auto parts store locally and bought a door panel remover. I put the remover in the vise and heated it and bent it another 15-20 degrees to improve (increase) the angle. I used the remover to pull a the bottom of the seal and wiggled it into place and then (after pre-screwing the holes) put the 2 screws in and worked around it to get the seal edges properly set. Once I got the first one done (10 min) the second took 5 or less. So, the Dawn + the modified door panel remover did the trick. Thanks to all for your suggestions. I appreciate it.

I got the old one's out but for the life of me I can't get the new one's to line up so the bottom lip fits over the bottom of the metal. There must be a trick to doing it. I do have large hands so the space is really tight for my fingers but I simply can't get the edges of the seal that press against the metal to slide into place. It's almost like I need a tool ( a mini pry bar?) to reach inside and pull up on the base of the seal to exert pressure to snap it into place. Was hoping someone had done it and had a trick to make it work.

'63 Riv. White leather interior. Passenger seat. One of the buttons came lose. Have the button. Anyone every repaired? Do I need to go to an auto upholstery shop or is there a way to get it back on or do I need to glue or?

When the '63 Riv goes back to the shop on the 20th to either fix or remove the heat gate and replace the choke line I'm going to have them pull both exhaust manifolds. Local shop will sand blast them for me for $50 (they are both a bit rusted). I'm planning on having the blaster shop spray the cast iron with Slip Plate Graphite Aerosol. Anyone have any experiences with the graphite spray? Reading other classic car forums it gets good reviews. Appreciate any comments.

Ok...back in town. Took the INterstate battery back and got a replacement and the car starts. Going to keep an eye on it to see if there is a drain. I can't remember ever getting a bad new battery. Many thanks to everyone who weighed in. I really appreciate it.

Son attached charger to battery and got lights but wouldn't start. Tried charging but nothing. Son took battery to AutoZone. They tested the battery and sat it's a dud. When I get back home I will replace it and try again.

The one thing I did after getting the car back was to try the horn 2-3x.

Still out of town. Battery is 2 weeks old. Cable clamps are new. Also rotated as I tightened.

Before I headed out of town for a few days I charged the battery with cables off. I had replaced both cables with new custom made. I have power at the connection point on the driver's side fender. From there I need to track it or get the car to the shop. Strange to me that no lights or power at any device or light with or without the key on.

Checked the fuses in the passenger compartment and all look good. Anywhere else between the battery and fuse box that a relay or something could suddenly go bad?