Summershandy

Hey, I think I got that dokka dokka dokka! Luckily I haven't heard any CLINGK between shifts. Thanks for those sound effects! Come to think of it, when I was originally working on the car years ago I wanted to grease the UJ but couldn't get my dang grease gun in there, so I left it. All other fluids and zerk fittings were done though. I should get under there this summer and take another look.

Curious Phil, what sound was your UJ making? I've always had this muffled clunk as I slowly depart and thought it was in the differential. I don't hear anything at normal speeds.

I read your procedure and thought, "filter?" I had to go back to my original pictures when I did replace the fluid to see. It seems like so long ago that I had totally forgot about a filter. It didn't look too bad and there was sediment in the pan. Maybe I'll give it a total change out this summer. I see in the manual some drain torus cover plugs are located inside the flywheel. Would mine be as in the picture?

I'd like to drain the trans fluid this spring through the drain plug. I know the '54 likes type A fluid and Mercon/Dextron III/IV is acceptable. I believe the entire fluid doesn't drain from the entire trans so my question is, I don't remember what type of A fluid I originally used so will any of these fluids be compatible with what may be left over in the trans?

I couldn't resist to comment on the weather Phil. Most of Canada is experiencing the cold Polar Vortex. Where I live the windchills are hitting -40 and in other parts colder. Never mind year round use of antifreeze, have you ever heard an engine start when the block heater isn't plugged in at these temps? Sounds painful!

Looks awesome! The engine colour brings back memories. That was the colour of my straight 8 before I painted it period correct.

We want to see pics too Russ! Don't freak if they seem too small. Take your time and be gentle, they will open up to fit.

You've given me food for thought John. I just came back from a car show which was a 15 minute highway drive away. Car sat for just 1 hour while I walked around. When I went to leave the darn thing just wouldn't start. It would sound like it was going to but wouldn't run. I pumped the pedal before each time I tried, almost to a dead battery. It finally caught and I feathered the pedal to get it to idle. It's NEVER done that before. It runs great on the highway and at idle stil. I'm thinking of yanking my rebuilt pump and checking the innards now.

My steering wheel is definitely straighter than yours but I too have more play than I wish for. I've been meaning to get my butt under there and try adjusting the steering box. Research the type of grease for the box. I think I found some 00 locally and remember reading something about John Deere corn head grease. As EmTee said, tie rod adjustments can make a big difference.

I'm actually impressed with the quality build for the price. Not sure if they're all equal or all the same. For all it's worth, I picked them up at chevypitstop. They were very helpful and communication was excellent. Two traits that are getting harder to find these days. Good luck and feel free to post pics when you get them on!

First time out this summer. I'm still likin' the headlight visors. Went for a short cruise for the usual waves, thumbs up and "what year is your car?" I've even had a few people film me on their phones driving by. Welcome to today's technology.

Have you ever done so many troubleshoots that sometimes you kinda forget what you did? In all honesty, originally I knew both my brake lights didn't work but I only used a mirror on the drivers side to check. When I tested the turn signals I activated the drivers side. Obviously, unbeknownst to me as you indicated that disconnects the brake light. It then started working. Maybe the issue IS only one side.....sigh.

I have power to one side of the brake switch so I must have nothing going back from there. I think I may have found the problem and I think it's in the turn signal lever? I hooked up those 2 wires and began wiggling and moving while double checking the brake lights each time. I thought for fun I'd try the turn signals again then BAM, the brake lights came on. The wiring diagram shows the brake light switch having a wire directly to the turn signal. Then it feeds power to the rear? I hooked the wires back up to the switch and they work again. I'm happy but I'm not....not knowing when the brake lights come on!

Thanks Bloo - I did turn the key just for fun. I'm going to snoop around a bit and check the wiring diagram. I'll let y'all know what or if I find something. Strange how it was fine when parked and no, I haven't had any mice in the garage either!

Well almost all the snow is gone and it's time to pull out the old girl from storage. Turns out I had to buy a new battery. Made it 6 years. She fired right up and while it warmed, I checked the lights. No brake lights. Funny how just sitting for 6 months how the gremlins manage to do their dirty work. Question: to test the brake switch, can't I just remove the 2 wires from the switch and connect them to make a circuit? I tried and still no luck. All the fuses/bulbs/connections are good. I don't particularly wish to change out the switch if it's not necessary in case it's wiring. I read an old post of mine where I received a faulty switch once and learned about changing to mechanical. Again, if it's a wiring problem I'd rather leave the switch in place. Gawd I hate wiring issues!

I found some pics from my headliner job. This is what the strip looks like on mine. I repainted it the same colour that it was. It holds the windlace in place and I had to be pretty creative to make it work. As for your grille, you can never go wrong with black but I kinda like that colour you got there. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!

My Jeffery Allen visors came in today. There are other styles that seem to go over just the lamp but I liked the type that go over the chrome rim. It's advertised as a 7 inch which is exactly the diameter of the headlamp. I questioned it and the seller sent me a picture with them over the rims and mentioned they were "bendable." They did in fact fit the lamp perfect but I was able to stretch them out to fit around the rim. They were rather inexpensive and add a little more bling. I need to pull the car out this spring and get a better look but I'm ok with them. You'll see the tail lights have original visor style chrome trim to match....not that anyone can see both at the same time!

I think I got my thermostat off ebay and here is the photo of the ring from CPR. The Harrison has the bleed whole that Bloo spoke of. I didn't want to screw around with a different fit.

My gosh it felt good to heat up the garage and tinker today! Temps are finally starting to hit the melting point and speaking of hit, we just got hit with a major snow storm 2 days ago. Still got a couple months to go but heating the garage when it's not minus 40 is a lot easier. It's always bugged me that I sit low in the drivers seat. Getting them reupholstered is out of the question. I had found some left over memory foam in the basement and saved it for a day like today. It moves me up a little and as always, cost zero dollars! I used these stationary clips to attached the bottom the the seat frame in case the underseat heater needs to be used. I'm waiting for my headlight visors to come in so I'll post some pics of that when they do. I've always kind of liked them and I have them on my motorcycle. I noticed the tail light chrome rim is "visor" like in appearance and may compliment the fronts.

When I was restoring years ago, I got 90% of my stuff from California Pontiac Restoration out of Santa Ana. If their price was too high then I would shop around. The retainer is relatively inexpensive.

Glad I could be of service! That's what we're all here for....a little help. Happy cruising!

I made one but it's flat. I recall a thin flat bar fit perfect cuz I don't remember cutting the width. The ends weren't that hard but to have one with that dimple in the middle?....I'd seriously buy one if the price wasn't too crazy. I'm always up against the exchange rate of our Canadian dollar. Keep us posted!

Dang that's cool! You should start making a bunch of these battery covers. I rarely see them under hoods.

You've come to the right forum! I think your heat shield under the carb is backwards and should be over the exhaust manifold. I ran a second ground from the frame to the starter. Short, nice and heavy. Wiring connections can never be too clean for 6 volts. I have intermittent "clicks" and blame it on a sketchy neutral starter switch. You could bypass it to test. The only leak I've got is I suspect the rear crank seal. The flywheel cover has a small hole at the bottom which indicates that. As Russ said, "the juice isn't worth the squeeze" to me and I park the car on a sheet of plywood to protect my driveway. Good luck and nice wheels!

Good on you is right! I've put a whopping 1500 miles in about 5 years. Mind you, it's in winter storage from Nov - May but I do admit not driving anywhere like I stole it. Good job Phil.