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41 ExcellentAbout Real Steel
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Location:
Huntington Beach, CA
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Four things are needed to lift any car or truck: - A quality jack. - Quality jack stands. - Good judgement. - Experience. Missing one? Come back after you have it...
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saving an early fuel saver accessory
Real Steel replied to Brad in Wisconsin's topic in General Discussion
Not sure of the exact date, but c. 1930 is probably close. It attaches to the intake manifold; atmospheric air bleeds into the fuel mixture, thereby making the engine run leaner and use less gas. Using this for extended periods of time will cause serious damage to the valves and/or pistons. This is especially true if the bleed valve is mounted more towards one group of cylinders than the other cylinders. "For 6 or 8 cylinder engines" implies that this is intended for larger engines requiring more bleed air (than a 4 cylinder engines for example). Great display piece! -
Real Steel changed their profile photo
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It took three "Yes'"statements to put that packard-ish-thing in front of the public... 1. Someone said yes to the idea. 2. Someone said yes to building it. 3. Someone said yes to buying it. So, there are three people that like it. That's probably it though.
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Not long ago I had a 1925 DB roadster, and I believe the rear body section is the same as a '26 DB-built coupe. However, if I'm not mistaken, some of the coupes were made by Fisher? ...or was it Budd maybe? Anyway, then it may not be the same as my DB-built roadster...I'm not sure. On my '25 I had the complete 20" wheel setup for the disk (split) rims, and for the wood spoke rims. The spare mount is different for the two types of rims. The mounting brackets are different, and the upper attachment to the body is different. I think only the bottom attachment points are the same for the two types. I'll help you if you are still interested. There is a chance I may have some photos, but I would need to find them. Are the '25 roadster and '26 coupe body rear section styles comparable? Are you using split rims or wood spoke rims?
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Are you able to get a piece of wood, a 2x4 for example, and prop it up against the other end of the door frame? Cut the wood length to enable the screwdriver to fit very tightly between the wood and the screw. Using a screwdriver with some wrench flats on it makes the job even easier. I've used this method, works very well. Good luck.
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Survey - How do you drive your classic vehicle?
Real Steel replied to CCStudent's topic in General Discussion
Yep, that's mostly how its done. Of course, when I grew up it was a guy driving, and the other three were the, uhm...attractions. -
Survey - How do you drive your classic vehicle?
Real Steel replied to CCStudent's topic in General Discussion
In today's society, we are all boiled down to a formula. 95% (ish) of people fit into a 'Standard Protocol. We sometimes unwittingly provide the very data that creates these Protocols. They are then used for sales/marketing, healthcare, and even electing presidents. Our own data is used to heard us to the roundup. -
Survey - How do you drive your classic vehicle?
Real Steel replied to CCStudent's topic in General Discussion
I agree. What does 'cruising' mean anyway?? I drive my old cars everyday, and I've done that for decades...is that 'cruising'? To create an app, or something else, wouldn't it make sense to have it done by people who understand this lifestyle (its not a hobby, BTW), rather than people who 'decide' they're going to do this? For starters, tell us about your hands-on experience with vintage, old, classic, Classic, antique cars/trucks/bikes/planes. Anything? -
Survey - How do you drive your classic vehicle?
Real Steel replied to CCStudent's topic in General Discussion
Hmm. One post. No intro. No name. No purpose. But YOU want... -
When you're in SLO, take a short ride to Pismo Beach. There you will find a small hole-in-the-wall place called the Splash Cafe. It's right next to the pier. Order the clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. I've driven 3 hours for one of these! Go at an off-hour...the line can wrap around the building sometimes. You will sing praise to me when you're done
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1942 Cadillac Pickup - a factory built vehicle?
Real Steel replied to Dosmo's topic in General Discussion
Red exterior, white interior, WWW on wire rims, ON A 1942 TRUCK??. Does that sound like the refined GM Styling Studio to anyone?? Nah.. -
value of 1927 ford model a commercial truck stakebed
Real Steel replied to MrKarman's topic in General Discussion
Are you basing the year on what the vehicle Title says? Many many titles from the pre-1930's are wrong because the vehicles were actually titled years after the initial purchase, and many times not even by the original owner. -
Can Someone Identify This 1930/1940 TOW HITCH on a Ford Model A?
Real Steel replied to Real Steel's topic in General Discussion
Here is a photo of a similar hitch on a Model T from a 2010 forum post. This T hitch is shorter than the one shown above on my A, but the hitches may be from the same manufacturer. The 2010 author states that the hitch is an "original accessory", but no other details are given. For you Model T folks out there, does this ring any bells? http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/167267.html -
Can Someone Identify This 1930/1940 TOW HITCH on a Ford Model A?
Real Steel replied to Real Steel's topic in General Discussion
This truck will not be restored, no way! Only modifications made by PO's (such as the radiator shell, etc) will be put back to the factory correct version. Within reason, I will use original used Ford parts, or NOS parts, or NORS parts. Only a few items will be new, such as tires, distributor parts, gaskets, etc. Any new parts will be USA if possible. The theme for the truck is "The War Years"...how would the truck have looked and have been used in the early 40's. Well used, patina, a few circa 1940 replacement parts, basic, simple. -
Can Someone Identify This 1930/1940 TOW HITCH on a Ford Model A?
Real Steel replied to Real Steel's topic in General Discussion
Could you please post a photo of it?