Old 30's/40's Mopar Nut

HWELLENS HAS KINDLY PROVIDED ME WITH A DIAGRAM. I ALSO HAVE THE ONES FROM A COUPLE OF CARB KITS. MY BROTHER IN LAW HAS A SPARE CARB FOR HIS 38 CHRYSLER.. I WILL TRY THAT NEXT. HERE'S HOPING. TODAYS PROJECT IS INSTALLING A NEW HOT WATER TANK...

Thanks again, yes, I am anxious to see what Jon says. With that much fuel dribbling in, of course the the mixture screw had no effect. I was concerned about the float level. With the top off the carb and the engine running, I was able to hold the float up and shut the needle valve . This eventually lowered the float level, but did not alleviate the problem. My belief is that there is an internal crack in the housing that I can't see...

Hi Fellows, Thanks so much for your replies and input. I am sure we have no mechanical issues, as both cars run properly with the one decent carb. The float and float level seems to be good, I have removed the top of the carb while it was running and held the float to let the level drop.. no difference. just ended up stalling when the level got too low. Fuel still dribbles out of the main discharge tube. This leads me to believe there is an internal crack? Jon, as the carb guru, have you ever seen this? You say these units are poor, can you suggest a substitute? I think these cars both were originally equipped with Strombergs...? Thanks again, Greg

Hi, i have been struggling with the carb on my 34 Chrysler,. it loads up at idle, making it too rich to run without cranking up the idle screw. My feeling is that there must be an internal crack in the main body. I have some extra carbs around. Tried swapping bodies around with no success. I don't know anything about the history of these carbs, or if they were any good in the first place. Took the carb off my 38 Dodge (same type) and tried it, no problem, ran great! Wondering if this is a common problem with ball and ball carbs... anyone out there has any experience or suggestions with this? Thanks so much, Greg

I have a 1938 Dodge that uses a canister filter with a replaceable cartridge type filter. Cleaning it might have been an option during the war, or out on the farm. These are readily available for around 10-$20 Best thing is to replace it.

SORRY, DONT KNOW WHAT HAPPENED THERE... AS I WAS TRYING TO SAY, I HAD A 1947 DODGE BEHAVING IN A SIMILAR FASHION. TURNED OUT TO BE A LEAKY HEAD GASKET. FROM THE LOOK OF YOUR PICS, THE DECK OF YOUR BLOCK LOOKS RUSTY?

'HI KEITH, SEVERAL YEARS AGO I HAD A Q1

HI, i AM SURE THAT IS FROM A 1938 CHRYSLER.

I AM LOOKING AGAIN FOR AN OIL PUMP FOR THE ABOVE. THOUGHT I HAD ONE, BUT THE ALEDGEDLY RELIABLE (UN-NAMED) SOURCE SENT ME THE WRONG ONE AND IS NOT WILLING TO ASSIST ME FURTHER. ANYONE HAVE A KIT OR PART NUMBERS? ANY HELP APPRECIATED!

Hi Jim, Thanks for the offer, but I think I will take a pass. Best, Greg

Hi, Just read this, maybe you have it solved? unlike the modern pinions that use a crush sleeve to set preload, these old Chrysler products use a solid collar between the two bearings. the preload is determined by adding or subtracting shims. I think I torqued mine to 125 FTLBS. (that was some 30 years ago...!) If you have trouble with aligning the holes for this cotter pin line up, remove the nut and file some material off the base. This will change the position of it when tightened. Nice looking car, by the way!

Update...success! I found a 1934 Dodge locally. it has an almost identical setup. One look at it solved the puzzle. Thanks again for your help, Taylormade!

Hi, Thanks so much for the trouble of taking those and posting them. Unfortunately, the pieces and configuration are quite different than mine. I am going to take a few days off and go back to it next week with a fresh start. There is only one way it will go together and work... Congratulations on the fine job you are doing there. By the looks of it so far, you will have a nicely restored '32 Dodge when done! Best Regards!

Hi, Thanks for your reply. Some pictures may be of help, especially if your car was equipped with a vacuum clutch. Thanks for taking the trouble...

HELP! I AM AT A LOSS AS TO HOW THE CLUTCH LINKAGE GOES BACK TOGETHER! AFTER 2 1/2 YEARS, I AM PUTTING THE REBUILT MOTOR BACK IN. I WAS VERY FORTUNATE TO FIND A REBUILDABLE CORE. SHOULD HAVE TAKEN SOME PICTURES. THIS SET UP SEEMS VERY COMPLICATED FOR WHAT IT IS, MUST BE BECAUSE OF THE VACUUM CLUTCH (LONG GONE) AND FREEWHEELING (DISCONNECTED AND BLOCKED OUT). ANY PICTURES OR DIAGRAMS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED! I DONT KNOW OF ANY CARS LIKE THIS IN MY IMMEDIATE AREA FOR COMPARISON.