RichBad

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About RichBad

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  • Location:
    Australia
  1. Thanks Ray, mine seems to line up pretty well with the bolts at the rear.
  2. I think mine is from late 1927 but perhaps earlier for the standard six. The earlier fours were similar but had different shaped fenders and chassis but I’m no expert (not even close)
  3. Spent today making a battery tray as original was missing. I think they were a ‘U’ shaped tray with a tube bolted to each side to stop left/right movement but I couldn’t find any good photos. I made mine with sides and slightly wider that way I can fit a larger battery or use for extra tool storage
  4. Progressing slowly. Chassis all sorted but now trying to get the front fenders to fit (they had been repaired at some stage to fit a bent chassis) and sort out a few bad repairs from the past.
  5. Trying to figure out how the right hand wing/fender fits around the engine timing case. I had to cut out a piece of the hood clash strip because it was hard against the case. Anyone have a photo showing what it should look like here?
  6. DB bolts

    As in Bullsxxt or did B&S make bolts back then?
  7. Great, thanks Tony.
  8. DB bolts

    My late 1927 also had a mix. It looks like all the Engine, chassis and drive train ones had the DB logo. The body ones seemed to be different (and had more square nuts too) but probably because my body was made/fitted in Australia. Some of the body ones had other logos but not sure if these were original or not (I think the B&S ones may have been robbed from a lawnmower).
  9. Transmission oil/grease

    600W was specified in the Dodge books but both the number and W could be misleading as they don’t appear to be from any current classification systems (ISO, SAE etc). I’m sure someone could do a thesis on this and there would still be arguments about what is best. My opinion is to use what has been tried and tested and shown to work well. Meropa ISO1000, 1500 and Penrite 250 appear to have been used by many with no issues. FYI, the Penrite 250 gear oil is recommended for this era of vehicles and also mentions that it is similar consistency to the old 600W gear oil. See here https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/transoil-sae-250 Cheers
  10. Hi, Should there be fender welt/piping between the fender and the valance and if so is it on both the horizontal and vertical joints? Also, does it go between the fender and the front of the side step? Thanks!
  11. Gradually making progress - had to cut some chunks of previous repair out of one fender to get it to fit better. Still trying to find out what the front of the valance/splash shields should look like where they meet the front fender. I think that their must be a seperate piece of clash strip between the fender and valance but can’t find a good picture. I think it’s the same as the 1928 standard six if anyone has some photos of those? Do they have piping/welt between where the fender and valance attach to each other?
  12. hood hold down

    I feared as much:( was hoping there may have been some magic trick.
  13. hood hold down

    They look much easier to disassemble than the earlier '27/'28 four ones. Has anyone find a good method to strip those for repair/refurb?
  14. Rim color for a 1926 DB

    Zinc plated I believe. Just had all of mine done for ~$80 - probably cost as much to paint them and will chip easily.
  15. Thanks Bob, I didn’t think I’d find something you couldn’t remember:). Looking at various photos on the web the holes seem to be the same as others but not many photos showing anything in the holes. I found one picture which shows something in the rear hole - not sure if it is a fastener or a rubber plug? Also seems to be a seperate small section of clash strip at the rear - perhaps it secures this? The middle hole hole definitely appears to be for attaching to the chassis as it lines up with a hole in the chassis but the rear hole is outside the chassis. Photo below shows this when the apron is removed. Also not sure if the front of my splash aprons are correct as they have been repaired at some stage (no holes/cutout for front body mount). And should the front have part of the hood clash strip? Tony, is this what the bolt for the front dumb iron looks like (or is that just a vintage bodge)? Thanks!!