RichBad

Well organised Matt - keeping that many people busy for the day takes a lot of prep!

Finally decided I was ready to cover up the woodwork….

I think I’ve got a tool I used to make those metal caps that go on the rubbers - probably not as good as what you could do but may be a start - will have a dig around for them

Yea, I retained the original lubrication fittings and even the rope seal - just had the lipped seal as belt and braces. I don’t tighten the gland nut much so would probably leak in it’s own but holds some lubricant and helps the lip seal. I thought modern car pumps have a lip seal - perhaps modern coolant has some additives to help with lubricant? The small shaft size on the dodge probably doesn’t help. cheers, Richard

Is there a reason why the ceramic seals are typically used on the Dodge pump mods rather than a lipped neoprene seal like modern pumps? I used a lipped seal on my pump but it’s a later model and perhaps there isn’t space in the earlier pump housings? I guess the ceramic style ones would also work on a worn shaft as don’t rely so much on the shaft for sealing?

Matt on the go slow = faster than most. Hope you’re feeling better!

That’s a real shame, I must have got in just in time in December. Not many places left that have the equipment, skills and knowledge. You’d think someone would have at least bought up the equipment and stock

Hi Brian, Here's a picture of mine - I machined the housing and also the pinion nut. With the bore machined to take the 85mm OD seal, it was a little under the diameter for the original metal retaining ring (you can just see the lip in the photo)

Both will be fine to use, use whichever one is easiest for you to get.

That’s a great article, thanks. It doesn’t have a huge amount on the positioning of irons/bows other than the importance of correct positioning. With no pattern to work from this is what worries me most as it sets the overall look. The bit on having the top edge just over the top frame and having parallel with the top of the doors is good, that should help get the position of the irons then just need to set the bow heights.

I replaced mine with a modern double lipped seal. From memory i machined the housing to take it but could still fit the original steel retainer so it looks correct.

Thanks:). Yea, see what you mean with the second bow being a little higher. The rear is vertical in both, I was in sure about that too so that’s good. side screens are nice in the first one too.

Any tips on setting up the top bows? I’ve got some old bows to play around with but not sure about the best positioning and order to get it all setup so looks good when fabric is fitted. cheers

Oh jeez, tell me you’re not cutting and lapping that valve with everything else exposed. I don’t think your rings will need extra help bedding in!

Hi all, been a while as I’ve been busy enjoying my Dodge and haven’t done any work on it for a while. Finally decided it’s time to finish it and cover up the wood work - interior trim is now done and am now on to the last job of the roof. I’ve got a set of irons which aren’t perfect but I should be able to repair and adjust to suit but wanted to check for advice on setting the correct position for the irons and bows. I assume the main run of the frame runs parallel to the top of the doors from the front bow rearwards but not sure about the rest. Any tips and tricks? I’ll sort the frame and bows but not brave enough to do the trim myself. Still trying to decide if I go with black or light top but perhaps I’ll go something different :):)