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About RichBad

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  1. RichBad

    Steering gear upgrade

    I’m told that having the box set up correctly can make quite a difference. You can also convert to needle roller bearings. I’ve done that but haven’t driven it since so can’t say how much difference it makes.
  2. RichBad

    Starting Fast Four restoration.

    That could be awesome - thanks!!
  3. RichBad

    Starting Fast Four restoration.

    If you do end up needing anything from Bob may be able to share the freight as he’s sorting a few parts for me too:) Why does this country have to be so large!
  4. RichBad

    Starting Fast Four restoration.

    I may be wrong but I think the term ‘fast four’ was applied to all the models with the 5 bearing crank (and the dissy in the head) so may apply to series 124 & 126 in addition to 128/129 some details here -
  5. RichBad

    Piston compression height - 1928 4

    Great - thanks!! Tried calling you Bob but couldn't get through - howe all is OK:)
  6. Hi, I'm in the middle of having some engine work done (re-bore etc) and the engine builder just asked what the correct piston compression height should be as all the ones he can find listed seem to be too high. It's a 1927/8 Series 128 (fast four engine) but I believe the pistons are the same on all the 4s? All the listed pistons have a compression height of ~ 2 3/16" but my engine builder thinks that they should be 2" otherwise they protrude from the block too much and the top ring is too close to the top of the bore. I can see a few possible reasons and wanted to check with others here: 1. The 2 3/16" compression height is correct and the protrusion is normal (the old pistons were the same and it had clearly been running like this for quite some time) 2. The block has been decked multiple times (it didn't look like it but anythings possible on something this old! 3. The rods are too long (they looked like the correct and original ones). Is 2 3/16" correct and should they be flush with the deck or not? Thanks, Richard
  7. Thanks - when I took it to the relining shop they said they had different grades - I asked for the softest possible. I’ve always done this on anything I’ve had to get re-lined as I figure it gives better low temp performance at the cost of less life of the lining (not really an issue on this) and also reduced wear rate of the drum.
  8. Fitting the rear brakes. Had new lining fitted (modern material bonded to bands) but also fitted rivets (mainly to fill the holes and look correct). Note, if restoring your brakes with bonded lining it’s best to clean/bead blast the bands first, then fit the lining and then paint/powdercoat. The temperature to cure the lining glue will damage the paint/powdercoat (found that the hard way). All the parts ready to fit Bands and linkages fitted Adjusted after fitting the wheel/drum
  9. Rebuilding the light switch.
  10. Thanks, may be able to do something with that if I cant sort anything else.
  11. Finished the sump. Had it re galvanised a while ago but was a bit nervous about re-fitting the inner oil tray (removed before plating) as it’s rivited in and the rivets are sealed with solder. Worked out quite well, made sure everything was very clean to start with and tinned all surfaces and it ended up easier than expected. Rear drain tube soldered in place Inner tray ready to fit Tray riveted in place Rivet heads soldered to seal
  12. RichBad

    4 cylinder engine paint

    For anyone attempting to re-galvanise their sump I’ve had mine done and just finished re-assembling it. The inner oil plate had to be removed for plating (as it wasn’t plated originally) and is riveted in place and the rivers soldered to prevent leaks. I wasn’t looking forward to it as I thought that soldering the rivers to the galvanising would be difficult. Turned out to be quite easy, just had to make sure it was all clean and surfaces were ‘tinned’ prior to assembly. Rear tube re fitted and inner tray ready to fit. tray rivited in place Rivets soldered to seal heads
  13. RichBad

    Gear oil recommendations

    Have a search of previous posts, it’s been discussed many times:)
  14. Thanks. I’m in Australia which doesn’t help too much, but would be useful to know as they may be able to ship. I read somewhere that the ford used the same material and profile just a different shape but not sure if that’s right. They do seem to rot for fun!
  15. RichBad

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I think they call them Dowty washers. I’d put some thread sealant on the bolt threads too just to be sure - loctite do some thread sealant (rather than thread lock). If if you want to stop the bolts rusting you could try coating in oil or grease but the best method is probably re plating them.