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About RichBad

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  1. Perhaps not.... I believe that is the drain for the water jacket:)
  2. Butterfly, If you can confirm you have both spark at the spark plugs (when cranking) and fuel at the carb we can the help you with other things to try (such as carb and ignition settings). But it’s important to check those two fundamentals first otherwise you could be on a wild goose chase trying all sorts of things which won’t do anything if you don’t have fuel and spark.
  3. Here’s a wiring diagram but not sure what year yours is, this is for a 1924.
  4. Shouldn’t need a ground to the engine as it will ground through the mounts. Looking at at your photos it looks like the autovac is missing (supplies fuel to the carb) as there is a disconnected tube. Perhaps it’s been bypassed with a modern pump? Its likely that the issue is either lack of fuel or lack of spark. have you checked for spark? If not, remove one of your spark plugs and rest it on top of the engine with the plug lead still connected. Then turn the ignition on and have someone crank the engine to see if there is a spark at the plug. if not, that’s likely your issue. The wiring for the ignition circuit is pretty simple. Power goes from battery, to the ignition switch then to the coil. The other connection from the coil goes to the distributor (points). Check power to the coil (with a multimeter or test light). Then check wire from coil to distributor/points. Check points are clean. If that’s all good and still no spark it’s most likely the coil or the condenser in the distributor. If you’ve got spark but still not starting then check fuel supply. If the plugs aren’t wet after cranking then check the carb. There should be fuel in the float bowl (cover can be removed easily with two screws). If there is no fuel in the float bowl then there is likely a fuel supply problem.
  5. 1927/1928 rear axle/diff rebuild

    Bob will know the differences for sure. I know the series 128/129 are different from the earlier ones (e.g addition of handbrake and torque tube etc) but insides are probably mostly the same. The pinion/crown wheel will also vary between models to account for wheel size etc. i made my own gaskets, cork for the rear and thin gasket paper for the front. Used the rear cover as a template as the size and hole spacing is the same front and back. Thanks!
  6. 1927/1928 rear axle/diff rebuild

    Ok, thanks Bob. I’ll get the pinion and diff assemblies put together and assemble them loosely to the housing then give you a call, perhaps at the end of the week. hoping to start the chassis on the weekend as it’s supposed to cool down - I think we’ve been having some of your weather down here recently! cheers!
  7. 1927/1928 rear axle/diff rebuild

    Thanks Bob, I remember that now. I didn’t want to trouble you with copying parts of your manual as you’ve got so much on. Is there anything else from the manuals that would help other than what you already told me? Going from what you said the following is what I noted (but may have got muddled on a few steps): 1. Assemble pinion assembly with light Pre-load on bearings (take out play and 1/2 turn more). 2. Fit diff assembly and set bearing to just remove free play (similar to wheel bearing) then approximately align gears. 3. Using blue (or thinned paint) on 1/3 of the gear adjust diff position and pinion to get correct alignment. 4. Adjust pinion assembly in/out to quietest position. 5. Fit half shafts and set with .005-.010” end play using shins on one side. cheers
  8. Hi, does anyone one have a copy of the rear diff rebuild details from a maintenance manual they could share? I’m about to start putting mine back together with new bearings and seals after a clean and paint and have some good tips from Bob B but wanted to have the instructions too. Thanks!
  9. Water pump done. Drain tap broke but there were a few threads left so hopefully enough to keep it there.
  10. Finishing wood wheels

    Hi, I added details of the bearing part numbers to my post here
  11. Finishing wood wheels

    Thanks - any particular sanding sealer?
  12. Steering box. Modified with roller bearings on the sector shaft and modern oil seals on the input, sector shaft lower end. Cleaned up the sector shaft teeth to remove play and provide even contact - took about 10 hours of grinding, polishing assembly and disassembly to get it just right. Filled with semi fluid grease.
  13. Generator/dynamo done, just needs the fuse holder and replacement nameplate ( original was a bit of a mess).
  14. How to remove 927 Dodge Steering Wheel

    I thought a loose nut behind the wheel was a pre-requisite for Dodges Sorry - Dad joke!
  15. Hi, Can anyone recommend the best option for finishing wooden spoked wheels? I’ve completely stripped my wheels and powder coated the hubs and rims. I wanted to finish the spokes in their natural colour and want something that is tough and will last! Something that can fill the grain would be ideal as a few of the grains have ‘opened’ slightly. Looking around the web there seem to be recommendations for and against almost everything therefore I’m looking for what people have tried and tested (with good results)! thanks!