Hazdaz

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  1. OK guys, thanks for the comments above. I got the brake and parking lights to work (rear) and I got the left turn signal going again, but I think the switch itself is messed up so the right doesn't work. Gotta look into that cable you guys are talking about. One thing that I knew was going to be an issue, and you guys mentioned as well, was the bulb sockets. Wow, are they crap. I even had purchased one which has a separate ground wire and while they feel pretty good quality, you put a bulb in them and its so loose that it constantly loses electrical contact. I tried multiple bulbs and the socket bore was just too big for all of them. I had to wrap a little tin foil around the bulb to maintain electrical contact and keep the bulb from being too loose. So that leads me to my question: Do you have a brand/model of taillight socket you recommend? Not the original ones from the car because I want a separate grounding wire. Looking at pictures online really can't tell you how well something will work which is why word-of-mouth is so important sometimes. I'm willing to solder on a separate grounding wire if need be.
  2. RETIREDMECHANIC - I don't think it is the light switch because my front parking lights/headlights come on like they are supposed to. Totally agree on the socket. The ones they use are awful. I had already bought a newer style plastic socket which fits fine after you cut off one corner of it. It had its own separate ground wire which I will fasten to the body when I sort everything out. I might have a problem with the turn signal switch. I was messing around with the tilt steering and I actually got the turn signal indicator to start clicking (but only in the turn left position, not turn right), but then if I moved the steering wheel tilt again, it would stop. I might be having a short on there somewhere. I took the trim on the underside of the steering column off (the ribbed aluminum trim) and found a green and grey wire (which I assume can only be for either the horn or turn signals), but I need to figure out how to take the rest of the trim off so see where the turn signal mechanism is. RIVNUT - I'll take a look at that harness connector, but I think I am getting some signal back there because the light for the license plate lights up. Also as I mentioned above, I actually got the left rear turn signal to work for a bit before I fiddled with the tilt steering wheel so I might be getting a short there. I am still not getting the brake lights working through. I have to find where the brake switch is and test that out. as RETIREDMECHANIC also mentioned, those old sockets are not particularly good and I already swapped in a newer style plastic one with a ground wire of its own. KONGAMAN - Yeah, I think its a little more involved as you say. The front signals were not working yesterday, but I got the turn signal indicator to start clicking inside the car, and the turn signals in the front and rear worked, but then when I jiggled the steering wheel they stopped. That makes me think there is a short or corrosion at the turn signal switch which is what I need to try getting to tomorrow. I hope the disassembly procedure for that is in the manual. Concerning the connectors behind the dash - I really don't think I can fit underneath there, so I probably rather just take that lower plastic trim off and go from there. I've already checked the fuses as I originally mentioned and they look fine. ONERIVIERA - that don't look pretty.
  3. Attached is a color version of the wiring diagram for the '64 that I made. I have never been a huge fan of doing electrical work so I made this to help me out because I think its much more clear than the black and white one. Hopefully it can help others as well. Along with that, I am getting close to losing my mind on my taillights. They are not lighting up the way they are supposed to and I can't quite figure out why. First off my turn signal indicator inside the car is not flashing any more. I replaced the flasher with a brand new one and still nothing. On top of that (or related to that) the taillights are not coming on when the brakes are touched. Here are some of the conditions that I am getting at various positions of the light switch: On the grey wiring going to the drivers side taillight (and touching off on the frame), I am getting 0V when the light switch is off, 12V when the parking lights are turned on, 12V when the low beams and lastly 0 when the lights are off but I hit the brakes. That seems normal. On the green/white wire on the drivers side taillight, I am getting 0V in all switch positions, as well as when I hit the brakes. This is clearly not right, but I am not sure how to proceed from here. I already checked the fuses, and the one that was blown was for the blower which should not be related to this taillight problem. I replaced it anyways and I also replaced the flasher as I mentioned before. If anyone has suggestions on what to check out next, please let me know. If not, maybe the color wiring diagram will help you out anyways. Cheers.
  4. Awesome cruising weather today.
  5. Wow, that interior color scheme is gorgeous. Wish changing the interior colors didn't mean replacing essentially EVERY single panel and part.
  6. Does this seem suspiciously low to anyone else? I know there were scam CL ads posted a few weeks ago also with super low prices. For a '65 I would expect way worse condition than that for $13k.
  7. This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V4ZJ0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Covercraft Custom Fit Car Cover for Buick Riviera (Technalon Evolution Fabric, Gray) I have had it for over 6 months (so it's gone through one winter) and I like it. Only issue is mostly because of me - you have to cut a hole in it for the antenna and I put it slightly in the wrong place so it started to tear up. I am sure it can be fixed.
  8. You can't just post a lift an not give us a name and model number.
  9. Minor update on the LED lighting. I had to order 40 of the wrong bulbs before I got the right socket, but still not quite the right bulb. I ended up having to do some custom soldering of a 1157 LED bulb to make them fit the proper parking lights on the Riv. In the first pic, the passenger side has the LED parking lights while the driver side does not. It's a pretty big difference in light output. I kept the turn signal stock for now. In the bottom pic, this is how it looks at night. I still plan on hooking them up to the lowbeams eventually. I also had ordered custom sequential LED tailights from Daper lighting only for them to sit on my order for a month. I ended up having to cancel it. I was not happy with them at all. Anyways, this is just a small update. To be continued.
  10. When you are checking it, make sure the housing is at least partially bolted in. The entire housing is ground and the bolts connect it to the rest of the chassis. In fact, clean out the screw bolts with a wire brush while you're at it.
  11. Hazdaz

    Do you do your own work?

    I hate working on cars, but I love fiddling with them. Fixing my driver's side window as well as the triangular corner crank window was a project I was more than willing to take on. But replacing some engine mounts, not so much. I designed and 3D printed a phone mount for the car, no problems, but tranny work? No thanks. I installed some LED lights and messed with the carb return spring, no biggie, but boring maintenance is stuff is not my favorite stuff to do. Ripping out 1/2 the interior and trunk area to spray some rubber seal is not an issue, but ripping apart a carb is something I wouldn't be thrilled to do, but might at least attempt it. I think the worst part of having such an old and relatively obscure car is that there are no YouTube videos to go over basic stuff. I've done lots of basic maintenance on my and my girlfriend's new cars and even though they are vastly more complicated, it's fine when you have good reference material.
  12. Pics attached. Lights always come out differently in photos because of the white-balance. The halo rings are much more defined in real life. In the first pic, it looks like the entire headlights are glowing, but its just the rings in person. I still haven't tried wiring them up to the low beams yet, they are only working with the parking lights for now. My fall back position will be to have them on their own switch.
  13. "Put a diode on each." That was one of the ideas I had, but talking to my electrical engineering coworkers about it, they said a diode wouldn't work in this particular situation because of some electrical reason that was above my knowledge. Now to be fair there might have been some miscommunication on my part which I can revisit and also offer up the wiring diagram for their inspection. Concerning the relay issue, is there a reason why the car doesn't use relays to begin with? Is that not a common thing for cars of this vintage? The halos just look pretty damn cool, so that's the main consideration for this mod. After installation I noticed just how much light they were puttinging out - they were bright but didn't throw the light far, which is of course why they couldn't be used for an actual low or high beam. The light they were putting out though landed in the area right in front of the car, which has been a sore point for me because of the poorly lit, narrow roads around here which makes navigating this beautiful boat a little iffy at night. Just as an example, the other night I could see the corner leading up to my driveway better after I turned the headlights OFF and took the turn with the parking lights and halos on.
  14. So I bought some halo lights and replaced the sealed beam lights with H4 halogens (for low and high beams) for the '64. The halos are wired in with the parking lights. I really like how they look and they give a lot of soft light off to the corners of the car (a very weak point of the stock lighting package). This makes taking a turn a lot easier because the halos light up the inside corner of the street so you can see any curbs or potholes. My issue is that I want to have the halos also work with the low and high beams. I know I could wire the halos on a separate switch if I have to, but it would be nice to have them go on automatically if I put the parking lights or low/high beams on. I've looked at the wiring diagram for the car but don't see a good way of doing this. If I wired them to the parking lights *and* low/high beams, my understanding of this wiring diagram tells me that the parking lights would stay on, when the low/high beams were switched on. That isn't actually a terrible thing, I don't I'd like to get some other people's opinions on this. I also fully admit that reading wiring diagrams in not something I am great at, so I might be missing an obvious place to tap into to get this to work.