Hazdaz

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About Hazdaz

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  • Birthday November 10

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  1. Never seen this before but I was ordering a starter on one website, and the list of choices for my 1964 401 is engine code KT or KV. On another site, they asked for the part number on the starter itself. Is that even easily found on the starter without disassembling everything? Its been pretty much non-stop rain over here (whole summer has been a wash-out!), so haven't had the chance to go out and grab the engine code off the block or look under the hood to see if I can even find any codes on the starter. One of the ones I was looking at was from Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/9501/10002/-1?ymm=4294829682+4294829225+4294829199 Autozone has one for TWICE the price: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/starter/duralast-starter/120294_23521_0 RockAuto only has the solenoid and not the entire unit. Kanter is the one asking for the tag number on the existing starter: https://www.kanter.com/productdetail.aspx?DeptNo=3100&MakeName=Buick&MakeYear=1964&CategoryID=400&ProductCode=4000&Router=Catalog
  2. Have you looked at Walnut shell blasting? It's not nearly as hard as sandblasting and shouldn't damage the base metal but can take any finish off of it.
  3. Much more common on classic pickups and ratrods, but a Mexican blanket would do it.
  4. I won a couple of cans of this glass cleaner at a car show last year. Best glass cleaner I've ever used.
  5. Do you have a website? Or at least specs/info? I'm also in CT, where are you located?
  6. Is it really? My current set up had a resistor on it already. The car was rebuilt before I even bought it, so not sure if those guys didn't know that it was built in or what. My understanding is that the resistor helps increase the life of the points, but reduces the spark going to the distributor (and thus spark plugs). I had been searching here and some people were talking about Petronix Ignitor upgrade to their stock distributor. Does anyone have further opinions on this set up? Worth the cost? If I am correct, it helps improve the responsiveness of the motor.
  7. Chrome is way harder than steel. About 8.5
  8. Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a shot with the cleaned-up coil I have, but probably also going to order up an MSD Blaster II coil (with resistor) unless folks think there is a better option out there. This coil was mounted horizontally and everything I've read states that its recommended they are mounded vertically.
  9. Looks like windshield glass is about 6-6.5 on the moh's hardness scale, and steel is roughly at a 4-4.5 (but can vary quite a bit). According to that, you should be fine with steel wool. I still would be very reluctant to do it myself.
  10. So I've been having issues with the '64 not starting and I think (hope) I've diagnosed it down to it having a bad coil. Took it off the car and long story short, the wire from the condenser coil snapped not giving me any way to solder it back on. I checked the resistance on the primary and secondary coils and only the secondary one looked within spec, but the terminals did have gunk on them too. I cleaned the corrosion and gunk off the terminals on the coil and I was hoping to test it out, but I'm guessing that might not be a good idea if the condenser isn't attached to the circuit. I'm seeing that regular coils are about $25 and MSD ones are around $40-50. None of them have a condenser on them though. Are these newer style coils that don't need a condenser? Is it built into the coil itself? Does the car need to have one installed? Or does anyone have an even better solution altogether (like a more modern ignition system)?
  11. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-buick-riviera-6/ This color combination is stunning in my opinion. My '64 is a similar exterior, but combine that with the tan/brown interior - WOW. BTW, is it me, or does that nailhead seem to "shake" more than normal when he popped the hood? I don't have any other ones to go by, but the one in the video seems like it vibrates more than I was expecting. Could be just my imagination.
  12. Should the turn signal cable be tight against the steering column? I've read various thread on here about this issue and how a loose cable is usually the cause for the turn signals not working. I can see now that I have it and the steering wheel off that the cable pulls up for a right turn and pushes down for a left turn, but not sure if I should just be tightening up the slack on the cable sheathing or what exactly. When I flip the turn lever, instead of the cable itself moving, the sheathing is the part that moves the most (the cable only seems to move a little). I figured it would be more like a bicycle brake cable where the outer sheathing is mostly stationary, but the wire inside is the one that really moves.
  13. I'm surprised that I dislike it as much as I do. Love the chopped look on other cars - usually '50s era ones - but it looks like too far of an extreme in my mind for this Riv.
  14. Hazdaz

    Halogen Headlights

    This might be a silly question, but would the use of LED bulbs eliminate some of the problems associated with Halogens seeing as how LEDs are soooo much more efficient and thus draw so much less juice? I have yet to find a pair of LED bulbs which would fit in the location, but I'm always looking. Most have a fan or heatsink behind the bulb which means you need more room back there. There seems to be plenty of room for the high beams, but the low beams have less room on the battery side.