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About Hazdaz

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  • Birthday November 10

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  1. Hazdaz

    Halogen Headlights

    This might be a silly question, but would the use of LED bulbs eliminate some of the problems associated with Halogens seeing as how LEDs are soooo much more efficient and thus draw so much less juice? I have yet to find a pair of LED bulbs which would fit in the location, but I'm always looking. Most have a fan or heatsink behind the bulb which means you need more room back there. There seems to be plenty of room for the high beams, but the low beams have less room on the battery side.
  2. That's my fault. I didn't mean to commandeer this thread but I was literally working on this same exact thing this afternoon. The OP's car is a '68.
  3. Wow, I've never seen clutch head bolts before. The faded out image in the manual says 4 rivets so I assumed those were some funky '60s era rivets I've never seen before. I ran out of daylight, but I did get the wheel off real easy. I'll try the rest this weekend. Thank you!
  4. It's a '64. See attached image. There are 4 slotted rivets that hold the white gasket down. I originally thought I'd have to drill those out, but someone said you don't need to. I've tried applying some pressure from behind the wheel in the hopes it would at least move, but nothing. I've already sprayed some penetrating fluid to loosen any possible rust on the spline. The manual is terrible.
  5. I bought a universal steering wheel puller and I believe it wasn't universal enough. Am I correct in thinking I need the kind with the "claws"? When you take the horn cover off and the hex bolt, there are no screws to can thread into to push the wheel out. That tells me you can't use the typical kind you see online that are essentially 3 bolts. Am I right on that assumption?
  6. In CT, I think I pay somewhere between $30-40/year in taxes on the Riv, and no inspections needed. Honestly not sure how they calculate the tax amount, but I realistically can't complain about that at all.
  7. I'm curious how this topic has progressed - last post was from 6 months ago. I've been bummed lately because I can't drive around in the Riv in this great weather we have been having because my turn signals and now my brake lights are not turning on, and I suspect its the turn signal switch on the steering column and/or the stop light switch that needs replacement. My biggest issue, by far, is finding good diagrams or photos of where and how to access these components. This is by far the single most frustrating part of owning an awesome car like the Riv is that I can't turn to YouTube or Google Image Search or Bob down the street to ask for advice because Bob owns a Mustang or Camaro like every other classic car guy. The Buick Chassis CD I have is very hit-or-miss with diagrams in terms of the quality. But I digress - I think some of you guys see that summer is fading fast so not being able to put some miles on the car is frustrating. Curious what the deal is with the cable, and if I need to remove the steering wheel before I can access the switch mechanism. I had somehow twisted my body to look under the dash the other night to see if I could find the turn signal switch and I saw a cable running down the steering column that looked loose (but not totally loose) which must be the cable in question. I have already removed much of the trim around the area, but it looked like I had to drill out 4 rivets before I could take the actual steering wheel off to access the rest.
  8. Its a '64 and I don't have defrost, cruise and I am guessing I don't have guidematic or twilight sentinel since I have no idea how those would even turn on if I did. I just did a quick search to see what twilight sentinel even does and shocked that something like that would have been available back in the 60s. OK so it sounds like it was just an extra connector then and I should just leave it be. Thanks guys.
  9. I've looked at the wiring diagram for my '64 and I can't find it, even though I am sure its there. The wiring going to this connector are brown/white/gray (or black). This is right at the bottom of the steering column down by the gas and brake pedals. -see attached image- Disregard the 14 gauge black wire that is running across it. I should have taken a picture of the end of the connector, but I believe it looked like 2 flat receptacles (not unlike a mini US wall outlet in a house). I'm guessing its an extra accessory connector, but it would be nice to know for sure. Thanks.
  10. Absolutely love that tan interior.
  11. I like the look with the extra piece. I'd be down to measuring the piece up and modeling it up in CAD and making a prototype. I see OPGI has them for almost $300 each side and you guys said they weren't even that good. Biggest problem being is that mine is obviously still on my car (and covered in vinyl so it would be more difficult to measure correctly) and I have other issues (stupid electrical!) I need taking care of first on the Riv that I can't be starting up another project right now. If anyone is in the CT area and wants to lend me one, I can measure it up and go from there.
  12. So would the stock part be more like the trim piece between the rear seats below the speaker grill? Mine is sheetmetal and painted a blue color close to the rest of the interior. I almost think if this door piece was painted the same color, it might look better - break up all the vinyl that is everywhere else.
  13. Oh! Yeah, that pic helps a lot. So how much are they asking for that part? That's just the kind of part that could be printed. The bigger issue is the vinyl wrap on it. That part might be more complicated than 3D printing it (once its designed correctly, of course).
  14. Do I have a standard interior? Went out there quick and still not sure which part this is. At first I thought it was the armrest with the cut out to pull the door closed, but going out to the car, the parts don't look to match anything on the door at all.
  15. Is it entirely hidden by trim or exposed? Is it just plastic or sheet metal (not sure if that is rust or simply dirt)? I've taken my door panels off, but I can't quite visualize which part this is exactly, and the pics posted are blurry as hell. If its already plastic (and thus not high loads) and not exposed to the cabin, this is a perfect application for 3D printing. If its metal, it looks like it could be reengineered as a sheet metal part. I know of a few companies that do low-volume sheetmetal parts. Curious how much these are going for these days.