SteveBigD4

Members
  • Content Count

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About SteveBigD4

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 12/14/1948

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    steve_bigd@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Clinton NJ
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, antique radios, HV electronics, performance cars

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. SteveBigD4

    Is this correct for ‘38 Special

    Looks correct except you need to use a brass cotter pin since the steel one will rust overtime. Steve D
  2. SteveBigD4

    Clutch Chatter Cure...

    I have had my 1938 Special for 40 years and when I got it it had serious oil leaks that caused very bad clutch chatter. After rebuilding the engine to eliminate the oil leaks I replaced all the clutch elements, turned the flywheel, rebuilt the trani and checked the bell housing alignment and adjusted the rear engine mount shims. I also replaced all the engine mounts and the central trani mount. Now I still have some clutch chatter but not nearly as bad as before. I found as others have said that slipping the clutch in 2nd with the brake applied for a few seconds virtually eliminates the chatter until the next time I drive it. It appears to be a part of the nature of these cars but also as Matt said could be due to deposits on the flywheel. For brake shudder I bed the brakes by making a few repetitive hard stops from 60MPH or so followed by some cool down cruising. This eliminates the shudder by seating the pads and burning off the deposits. I think that slipping the clutch to heat it up does a similar thing for the flywheel. Steve D
  3. My 38 Special also has the concealed fasteners. The edge of the cardboard kick panels fit into a groove in a metal strip that is fastened to the body similar to BuickBob49's 1939. Steve D
  4. I have taken my 1938 Buick 40-41 Stromberg AAV-1 carb. apart for a complete rebuild. I had done this once when I got the car back in 1980 and at that time I noticed a bit of bushing play in the throttle shaft. It didn't appear to be enough to warrant repairing it but now there is significantly more play, perhaps .010" or more. So I took the shaft out and found that the shaft itself is made of brass and runs in the cast iron throttle body. The throttle body bore measures .280" and the shaft is worn on one side in the bearing areas and reads .275" in the unworn plane and .271" in the worn plane. All of the rebush kits I can find are either for 3/8" or 5/16" throttle shafts and I believe the shafts are steel running in brass or bronze bushings. The throttle body bearings do not seem to be very worn but the shaft itself took the wear. It appears to be about impossible to find a new or NOS AAV-1 throttle shaft which has the accelerator linkage staked onto one side and a tab machined into it on the choke end. There were all changed from 1939 and up. I was able to find a brass 1/4" ID X 5/16" OD bushing which means I could drill the throttle body out to 5/16" and ream the bushing out to .275", but the throttle shaft would still be out of round and have more clearance vertically that horizontally. It is possible to turn the brass throttle shaft down on a lathe to .270" to get rid of the eccentricity and ream the new bushings to .270"? What have others done for this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve D
  5. SteveBigD4

    1937 Special Alternator

    I installed a 6V alternator in my 1938 Special because I converted to 6V halogen head and tail lights and driving lights which draw over 30A by themselves. I purchased my alternator and adaptor bracket from Howard Enterprises and got it pre-painted in black so it would be a bit more unobtrusive. You can specify the proper 5/8” pulley for our belt width. I think mine cost about $150 plus the bracket. The alternator is rated for 75A and >30A at idle and performs great. However I am not sure if the 1937 Special engine had the generator mounted the same as my 1938, but mine attaches to the block via a high mounted bracket with the slotted adjustment support mounted to the lower timing cover. This required modification of the adaptor bracket, drilling another lower mounting hole in the slotted bracket to shorten it and using a different belt length. Once I got it mounted I had just barely enough adjustment distance on the slotted bracket with about 3/8” space to spare between the tip of the bracket and the body (see attached photo). So far the engine does not move enough on its mounts for the bracket to hit the body but my mounts have been refurbished. This alternator is a single wire type and I also changed the feed wire from the alternator to the ammeter to a 12AWG size and added a 12AWG ground wire from the alternator bracket to the body. I get 7.2-7.6V at the battery depending on load even at idle. Steve D