• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

33 Excellent

About BuicksBuicks

  • Rank
  • Birthday 08/29/1945

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Morris Plains, NJ
  • Interests:
    Restoring pre-1938 radios, electronically and cabinetry. Most time these days is spent restoration and upgrading my newly acquired (Aug 2016) '37 Buick Special 4-dr.
  1. 1937 Buick Clock Recall

    Las Vegas Dave hit the nail on the head. The link that opens is actually a crude slow-blow fuse that heats up and opens when the battery is low; without it a weak battery will turn the relay coil into a 23 ohm heater. Since I don't want to open up the clock anymore I will be adding an external slow-blow fuse, maybe one or half amp. There is another fuse on the back of the clock; in my clock someone replaced it with a 20 amp. Not knowing what the original fuse rating was I figure that I can get along with a 2 amp and see what happens. The re-soldered link has now been soldered with modern 63/37 solder which probably disables its original fuse function. Some current measuring comes next to see what the minimum drain is with the dash lights on. Thanks all for the comments!
  2. 1937 Buick Clock Recall

    ...well not really. There is no recall. However this is the second time I've found a broken solder joint in a 1937 Buick clock. It's not easily seen so I've attached a photo of the repaired solder joint. The "wire" used in this connection is extremely stiff and springy and almost certainly the cause of the fracture. I first came across this problem around 1962 with my first '37 Special; now I've come across it in my latest '37. Just thought I'd throw the info out in case anyone had given up on their clock repair. -Pete
  3. Remote Oil filter ...

    Its going to depend on the mechanical layout of your filter can. I bought a used filter on eBay that had a horizontal mounting flange; with my 37-48 having the battery under the front seat, there was plenty of room to drill and tap the frame opposite the coil and to bolt the filter to. Its just an alternate way of mounting a filter other than to the engine.
  4. WW2 Gas Ration Window ID

    The files show as photos unfortunately . Maybe someone can let me know how to attach these JPG's . If I can't figure it out you can email me at stateasylum@yahoo.com and I'll send them out.
  5. WW2 Gas Ration Window ID

    Not having a car worthy of a critical judging I can offer a bit of originality that may or may not add to your entry. Attached is a pair of files that will print two-sided "A" ration ID's for your windshields. The files will print eight ID's, printed on letter size matte photo paper or some other heavy paper. These are identical to the originals and I keep one in the windshield of my 37 Buick.
  6. Turn Signals/Additional Brake Light...

    In my 37-48 I ran extra wires to the front fender lights and tail lights. For the front lights I installed amber LED's and for the tail lights, added sockets and incandescent bulbs. When I took my first 37 Special for NJ state inspection in 1963 I was asked to show left and right signals. I did, and with hand signals. The inspector didn't appreciate the hand signals and proceeded to yell at me, "don't be a smart ass!".
  7. 1925 Buick coupe

    I don't recall when alcohol was mandated in gas but if there is some of this mixture in the tank, there's a high probability of tank rust. If there's rust it will find its way to the carburetor. My 37 Buick sat for years with this alcohol gas in the tank and necessitated cutting the tank in half, sand blasting, and coating. There was enough rust in the tank to fill two small milk containers. Beyond that I love your new car.
  8. 1937 1938 windshield stainless steel windshield trim

    The 39 Roadmasters had the trim.
  9. 37 Buick solenoid end play

    To clarify my starter engagement issue, the vacuum switch has long been disconnected and a starter button installed under the dash. I haven't removed the flywheel cover and hope that I won't need to what with my physical restrictions. With a mirror on a stick and an LED flashlight I've looked at the flywheel through the timing hole and although damaged, it doesn't look terrible. The engine has 68K miles on it so its not an engine that has been heavily over used or started. Thanks to Bloo for informing me about the threaded adjustment of the solenoid plunger linkage; that's something I will certainly look at next; its something that I can do by simply removing the solenoid rather than pulling the entire starter. For now I've ordered the starter gear and on the next somewhat warm day I'll pull the starter and hope for the best.
  10. 37 Buick solenoid end play

    I guess there's little doubt that I've got to pull the starter out. One big reason for my hesitation is severe arthritis in my hands. To save time I just ordered a new starter gear from "Bob's"; it surprised me that these are still available! It may get up fifty degrees over the next few days so I've got to get moving..
  11. 1939 248 engine head removal

    You may not elect to do it but twice I've had Buick heads/valves rebuilt for free at a local automobile trade school. The work is monitored and "approved" by a licensed instructor. These schools are always looking for work projects. Luckily none of my valves needed replacement; that would have been a problem.
  12. 37 Buick solenoid end play

    My 37 Special has problems engaging the starter at times. I noticed that there is about 1/4" end play in the solenoid linkage to the starter engaging mechanism. The play is strictly in the "hinge" of the solenoid plunger. If I get rid of this end play the starter gear will have an extra 1/4" of penetration to the flywheel. I really don't want to pull the starter but it looks like I'll have to; I just don't want to mess with something I should have left alone. Working outside in a New Jersey December isn't the most fun. The flywheel is worn but not to a critical stage; I haven't looked at the starter gear.
  13. Possible 1937 Special Bargain?

    I also noticed that the steering wheel is a horrid yellow. But if you look carefully at the spokes in the steering wheel, there's an extra bend just behind the horn ring. Other than that this is the same model as my first car that I bought as a teenager in 1961. It cost $60 then and I split that with a friend. These days I drive the 4-door model of the same Buick.
  14. I've had/have two 37 Buicks and a 39 Buick, all of which had door key locks on the front passenger door only. What's the rationale for this?
  15. '37 Buick speedometer/odometer read very low

    Marty- You have a point that I hadn't thought off. The tires are new 6.50 x 16 Goodyears from Koker. I never gave a thought to the diameter. They do look larger than the pre-war 6.50 x 16's that I used many decades ago. You've solved it Marty- tnx.