Rob Mangieri

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About Rob Mangieri

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  1. Yes I’m using Sylvania 6000K white LEDs. I also replaced/rebuilt my headlamp switch and panel dimmer control. The tach will be better matched once I repaint the inside of its “cup” with a lighter shade of blue that matches the factory cluster internals. The shade I used was far too dark of a blue.
  2. I agree completely regarding the gauge vs light. I’m planning a full array of gauges but was curious what the factory thought was “hot”. My gauge plan is for Oil temp Oil pressure Voltage Water temp Boost/manifold pressure Air Fuel Ratio I’m still working out my design as I want them to appear as factory as possible. I built an Autometer tach into a clock bezel that I machined. I’m repainting the inside of the bezel to get the lighting to match instead of being “blue” as seen in the phone.
  3. Engine shuts off

    Just in case... When you swapped to the MSD did you bypass the ballast resistor to supply a full 12v switched power to the unit? The stock coil + wire uses a resistor to cut the voltage back to save from burning points. You do not want that with an HEI or MSD.
  4. Quick question. Does anyone know at what temp the HOT side of the temp switch will ground and illuminate the HOT lamp on the dash? Cold Illuminates below 110 F. Im curious as to how hot this engine will get before that warning lights up. I plan to test with a gauge later this week but just curious. I am not a fan of any engine running over 220 especially on 93 octane with iron heads and a documented/tested 9.25:1 static compression on a sleeved .040 over 425 in Austin TX. Summer is coming....getting ready. Everything is new engine has about 2200 miles on it runs great but after any prolonged idle it loads up and stalls. It doesnt matter what I do with timing or fueling. I think it’s just the crap we call fuel today boiling up in the bowls.
  5. 64 Front shocks?

    Thanks for all the feedback everyone. The car actually sits "OK" but I would prefer the front to be a bit lower. I had a feeling these were a "band aid" item and may not even be needed. My plan is to remove them and check the height without them, then if acceptable ill replace them with normal shocks. dr914 I like the sound of what you did, and yes agreed I do think the brakes could use an upgrade especially the single reservoir master cylinder. Those Bilstein shocks sound like the best option. I like the easy steering for a cruiser, but the faster ratio would be nice too. This car rides well but not sure how wiped out these shocks are. Likely relics from the 70's or 80s and I cant imagine they are still good.
  6. I have a 64 Riviera that a good friend of mine allowed me to purchase. He took excellent care of this “barn find” original survivor car for last decade. Up until 2005 it had been in the original owners garage since 1980 stored in non running condition. That said the front end is all original as far as I can tell and just now hit 98,000 original documented miles. It drives and rides nicely too. My question: The shocks appear to have some type of flat wound coil spring around them almost like a motorcycle coil over would from the 70s. (Not the main coil the car rides on) was this a stock shock or an aftermarket replacement or upgrade back in the day?? I’ve not encountered a shock like this in the past. Oddly they aren’t blown or leaking😳 Thanks again, -Rob
  7. My first Buick, and first Riviera. Always loved these cars and when my good friend opted to sell his he allowed me to purchase it and become its new care taker. Its a survivor car and I am now the 3rd owner. 64' 425 single 4 barrel, full rebuild, blueprint and balance with TA performance cam, stainless valves, TA springs, Vintage Air, 4 Note Horns, All 6 windows power, cruise, tilt, power seat, Guidematic, AM/FM, The only items not optioned is a rear window defroster and dual-quad package. Hopefully next year I will have time to tear it down and redo the paint/body and have all the trim/pot metal and bumpers re chromed.
  8. Steelman thanks a million for that answer. Google failed me and literally no one at the hardware,part stores knew what to call them. I found them just by eyballing it for 30 years rofl. abandg - thanks for the tip on the 65 window. Overall I can still put the car back together and drive it but I dont like the leak the misalignment creates which also leaks water.
  9. Thanks for the input everyone. I had a feeling this was going to be a "fun" part to source. Looking at closely, I am thinking why couldn't I remove the rivet/washer and fashion my own replacement arm out of aluminum stock then reattach it with countersunk flush head allen bolts and large washers like they use for roller blade axles. See pic attached... im not sure what they call these type of bolts off hand. The depth being correct will be key.. This way it remains tight but doesnt allow it to wobble, bind or come loose. Even 2 teflon washers and white lithium could be used etc.
  10. Hello everyone, I'm an experienced car builder but this is my first Buick. It's a 64 Riviera 425 single 4bbl all power car. I am rebuilding the drivers door (power vent window gears, seals, felts, clean and re lube all the guides etc.) and found the source of the "CLANK" every time I close it. The rear arm that guides the window had snapped off and was just dangling by the roller inside the door. The windows still functioned but explains the misalignment. Ive added a marked up users photo. What is this part called (doesn't come up o searches for window regulators).
  11. Ive done a bit of searching and cannot seem to locate a source for brushes to rebuild my seat and window motors. Any help is greatly appreciated. Recently aquired my first Buick 1964 Riviera 425, Deluxe Interior, Vintage Air etc.. Love it! Thanks in advance, -Rob