Reatta90

Hey guys, So a while back I had to give up my reatta for financial reasons. As I am now about to start a job paying more. I'm wanting to buy a reatta and put the L67 in it. Preferably the series 1 supercharged. I was wanting to make it manual and maybe even rear wheel. I couldn't find other threads on this, just discussions. Perhaps, you guys could give me suggestions or even threads to look at. Thank in advance, guys.

Hey guys, So a while back I had to give up my reatta for financial reasons. As I am now about to start a job paying more. I'm wanting to buy a reatta and put the L67 in it. Preferably the series 1 supercharged. I was wanting to make it manual and maybe even rear wheel. I couldn't find other threads on this, just discussions. Perhaps, you guys could give me suggestions or even threads to look at. Thank in advance, guys.

I did a little googling and found it was the clockspring. But not sure where to get it

Also, can I get this anywhere else besides a junkyard?

Hey guys on my 90 Reatta, I have to believe I have broken the coil that is behind the steering wheel on the steering shaft, but I am not sure the name of this part, any clues?

So, electrically/electronically I understand how the function is, I mean I am curious about the physical connection, like what it physically looks like.

So theres a ground plate thst basically pulls down the signal, which enables the rest of the switchung circuit? Im trying to picture how the circuit is completed by the lever

Hey guys, on my 90 Reatta, I just replaced the ignition lock cylinder. To do this I had to rent two different pullers from the auto parts store. I successfully replaced the cylinder and it was serving its purpose. After taking the tools back, I was driving the car a couple days after at night, and went to test my high beams, and noticed I could not turn them on. Every thing on the lever works including the turn signals (although, are a little tough to turn them on) the high beams can not be activated. I thought of just wiring in a toggle switch instead of taking every thing back out. But I also figured that if I could figure out what is actually being pushed inside the steering wheel to turn the turn signals on then I may be able to access it through the small cover over the multi function lever. Does anybody have any clue about this?

I wonder if the wood paneling is from the interior of a Riveria...

It' The one at the bottom of the picture

What is the purpose in BD24? How will this aid in the troubleshooting of air, if no code exists that would give the answer then what is the alternative?

Hi guys, on my steering wheel I noticed that there's a wire coming through the fire wall right where the shaft of the steering wheel exits, so I'm assuming it connects to the pinion. Any clue where this should be plugged in at? Also, my rack and pinion is about 8 turns lock to lock. Doesn't that seem a bit odd considering it is one bought from O'Reilley's? Any suggestions on that aside from a new rack and pinion? And yes, I did check all steering components to be sure they are not worn out.

What does BD24 mean and no I do not own a service manual... Sadly, I know that's something important, but Google and forums seem to be cheaper and faster

Hey guys, on my 90 Reatta, I have been having issues with the air not blowing very hard out of my vents, after replacing, blower motor, and the module, as well as the HVAC programmer, and the BCM was replaced too. But I have taken the whole compartment where the blower motor is located off and took an airline and fished it through there and I can't seem to get the air to come out of any vents other than the floor. I literally have everything detached from the dash and I still can seem to find any issues. The compartment around the heater core is also off, the condenser is also off, and I still can't seem to find a solution to my problem. I was only getting faint air before with the fan all the way on high, and still no success. I even cleaned out the compartment where the air is drawn in and still no success. I also have a wire that comes out of the jacket around the steering wheel shaft right above where it connects to the pivoting shaft that hooks to the pinion. And it is not plugged in and I have no clue where it goes, any suggestions on that? But what is there left for me to do as far as the minimal amount of air leaving my vents? This is important because I need to be able to defrost my windshield? Also could someone please attach a link explaining the replacement of the window motors, please! I'm very glad to be apart of this forum, because you guys seem to always have the solution, also F14Crazy's post on the supercharger seems to be missing now, any clue about that?

Hey Guys, I actually did follow the advice and tried the ignition module, and the problem went away. I got another vehicle which allows me to set the Reatta as my project/weekend driver. I'm currently working on getting the ball joints, and power steering fixed. The car has a really bad leak on the power steering pump and also has an issue of wandering the road a lot which gives the car poor handling. Sorry for lack of update, I'm not always going to be the only one seeking this information. But the ignition module was a definite fix. Thanks to these guys on the forum I was able to survive the reigns of terror from car troubles.

Hey guys, so I'm thinking of doing an engine swap with a series 1. I was wondering if anyone could provide me a link where the guys did just a full swap and not swapping heads and what not. Because I would like to take out my gine and drive train and put in the series 1 and it's drive train and subframe and all that, and have my computer reprogrammed. Thank you guys in advance!

THANK YOU!

The coil packs aren't set up the same, mine all are in one line, like the plugs all go in a line but the engine set up is the same

What is the firing order, and I will clean the MAF and I will adjust the modulator some, and I will test the ignition module. Thank you guys!

Okay, I mean the engine oil was running synthetic, not the transmission. I am running he correct fluid in the tranny. But I will certainly go check the MAF and test some ignition modules on the car and see what I come up with. Thank you for the suggestions. Although, my only problem is I know how to get the codes to pop up and all that, I just don't know how to run the diagnostics and what exactly should be prevalent on what ever section I should be observing

If it is the MAF, why are there no codes being thrown?

Thank you so much! So will this fix my issue with the shaking? You've guys been a big help. While I have your attention. What is the component that runs into the firewall on the passenger side where the high and low pressure lines feed in for the a/c, it neighbors the heater core. I have replaced the heater core but never noticed that component there so I was curious, and what extra would I be looking at in replacing it. Thank you guys again, hopefully one day I can have this realm.of knowledge you guys seem to possess

Yes, in fact you are right it is, and I have tried adjusting it, but I wasnt sure that if you adjust it too much if you can damage the transmission. I did notice that I with get better response or worse response when trying to adjust it. And when i.mean adjust, I would just tighten the cable or loosen the cable. I was having problems having no pick up and I discovered it was that cable. And I adjusted it and that was a happy medium. I know I need to replace it, I just was doing something in mean Time. But to see if this is the issue, do I want to make the cable tighter or looser?

Okay, so basically upon getting the transmission, I cleaned the entire thing inside and out. And it had 100k on the tranny. I replaced the filter, gaskets, and the pan had no signs of metal shavings. Although, if I recall, it did shake and jerk with the old one. But the old one had lots of problems shifting and would shutter when trying to put a load on it around second gearish. And I read somewhere that ignition modules can be the source of jerks in cold weather? But the module is fairly new as well as the coil packs. It's been upgraded to the ac Delco setup. And it has a little bit of give when shifting but it is an older transmission that is a 4 speed that I wouldn't expect anything better, I believe it shifts fairly well when doing so. But I do believe it will sometimes have this acceleration and then deceleration feeling occasionally in the cold weather and the rpm will go up one and fall down one. And yes it will down shift, sometimes it feels like it requires more acceleration than needed to get the car to do it but yes under load it will down shift. I believe it shifts the fist time below 20, then at like 47/48, and then will shift between like 55 again and then shifts again around like 70 I believe. I've checked my vacuum lines and they all seemed to be doing just fine, I replaced a few on the transmission because of the fact that they had been messed with when doing the transmission so I went ahead and replaced them. It has new fluid in the transmission as well as the filter, and has new gaskets and the fluid levels are great. The guy I bought the car from was running full synthetic, so I tried to just convert back to huh mileage, took a little more because I wanted to make sure I cleaned the high mileage out and then did another oil change shortly after to be sure to get the synthetic out, because I've read if your oil is too thick it can clog the sensors and mess the timing up so I thought that might be it, but it wasn't. And I thought it wasn't a transmission thing, I mean I have some knowledge, but I'm no where an expert nor is it something I've experienced before. Also, no engine codes are present to make it happen.

Hey guys, I recently did a transmission replacement on my 90 reatta, although I did use a used transmission because o a tight budget at the time. I've encountered an issue, the transmission seems to act up or appears to be the transmission acting up. It does this jerking like thing where it isn't necessarily a shudder but pulls and shakes really hard when the temperature reads 65 or below and I notice the problem when I'm driving 70 mph or better and it doesn't do it if I'm giving it gas but as soon as I let off itll start jerking and pulling and shaking. I understand I went wrong with the transmission being used and all but I just wanted to see I there were any ways of fixing this issue or maybe anyone had an idea of what is happening?