1924 6-55 Sport Tourer

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About 1924 6-55 Sport Tourer

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    Hobart. Tasmania

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  1. Bob's Automobilia contact

    Thats helpful info. I too have wanted to make contact but for the life of me i could'nt find it either. I did'nt think to look on page128! I don't have a problem calling them, it's just the time diference is a pain. Regards David
  2. Buick Lifters Help!!!!

    Jim and Terry, Thanks for your advice. I had already planned for that to occur, but it's a timely reminder for those contemplating this to think ahead. I was just thinking that if there is already someone outhere who can help it just saves time and effort by having to do it all again. Regards David.
  3. Buick Lifters Help!!!!

    Im well into the engine rebuild on my '24 Master. New pistons, block bored, camshaft re-ground etc. The engine is now in a cradle waiting for me to deliver it to the engineer in 17 days time. A 938 km trip from home which includes an overnight trip on a ferry to get to mainland Australia. One of the tasks i need to do is find replacement rollers. Mine are like picture 3, some have galling and some have worn out rollers. Some are usable, but its easier to replace them all whilst the engine is apart. My question to you guys is - "who is the go to guy for replacement rollers"? No doubt i can get them made here in Australia, but sometimes its just easier if someone is already set up with the tooling etc to get the job done. Any ideas? David.

    Terry, I would suggest that there is some kind of a heater core under the dash. There are 2 red hoses plumbed into the cooling system and very crudely fed through the fire wall. Maybe the mystery item is linked to that? It is hard to tell from the photo but there appears to be a "screw" on top. Is this a "bleed screw" to evacuate air out of a heating system ? It is all just conjecture until you go back and examine more thoroughly. Please post more photos on what you find. Regards David
  5. valve push rod cover stud removal

    Hugh, Why do you need to take them out? The studs are not in the way of anything. My block is currently at the machine shop being bored for my new pistons, and i have left them insitu. Besides, if the stud need to be removed, what better place than an engineer/ machine shop to do it for you. Regards David
  6. Wire Wheels for a 24 or 25

    Greetings Rod, i tried to reply to your email, but i dunno, could not make it work My Ash wires are running 23 x 5-00 tyres, they are currenty "slave tyres" as i will purchase new white walls once the car is finished. I have enclosed a couple of photos for your reference. I hope they help. Regards David
  7. 1908 Model F Tourer

    Good observation guys, The car did indead come from Russell Holden in Mudgee. Ok so a bit of a shopping list of bits required, Rear wheel brake bands, Clutch throwout mechanisn - complete (parts F-1147, 714, 716, 890 & 891), Pistons x 2. (4 1/2" bore), Herz timer, Left rear valve assembly and rockers, Any actuator rods or engine parts, Could be interested in a complete engine. Thankyou for taking the time to look and hopefully we can do business. Regards David.
  8. 1908 Model F Tourer

    Trimacar, Larry and Mark. Thankyou for your responses to date and thankyou for those links to other sites. We do have an engine it just wasn't in the car in this photo. The car is unfortunately a parts car and about 95% complete. For those that are interested, engine # 8676, chassis # 6467, body #402(under rear doors) or #728 (painted inside the rear tub) I will add a couple more photos for you interest. Mark, i will send an email tonight with a list of the parts we need, i can post the list here if people want, i just don't want to clog up this forum if it's not appropriate. Regards, David
  9. 1908 Model F Tourer

    Greeting, A good friend of mine just purchased this car, and although it looks complete - looks can be deceiving. What we would like to do is to make contact with others who have this model, either here in Australia or overseas. My friend is missing some crucial parts and though the classifieds would be more appropriate for this request, i felt that the pre war forum would give us a more tailored exposure. For those that would like to make contact, my email address is in my profile. Regards, David.
  10. 1925 Buick master 55x restoration

    25 Buick, FWIW, I had my chassis sandblasted and painted in a 2 pack primer and top coat from a local blasting business. Cost, $420-00. I was happy with the finish. Very shiny and durable. Photo shows it on the trailer when i bought it home (please forgive the mess in the background - man can't have to many projects ) David.
  11. 1925 Buick master 55x restoration

    25 Buick, Extra photos as promised. David.
  12. 1925 Buick master 55x restoration

    25 Buick, Attached are a couple of photos of the spare wheel carrier. I have a couple of other photos on the car that i need to download to the tablet, once loaded i will also submit. David
  13. 1925 Buick master 55x restoration

    25 Buick, Those front and rear crossbars are a pain. At least 1/4 " thick! I had to cut mine out, put it in a 40 tonne press to straighten and re weld. I wouldn't have thought that the springs would be different (L) to (R) but i have been wrong before. My spring leaves are equal (11 leaves each ?) Interestingly, i have 4 step irons on the (R) side, and 3 on the (L). I think i see only 3 on each side of your car, but yours is a '25 and mine is a '24.
  14. 1925 Buick master 55x restoration

    25 Buick, No. Don't cut the fuel filler off! That is how it is meant to be. The panel that the trunk sits on covers the rear crossmember. Once a trunk is insitu, it covers up the "normal" fuel filler point (and the fuel gauge too). The masters have a fuel gauge incoroporated into the instrument cluster. Therefore the fuel filler point has to exit out the side/end of the tank. During the daylight hours on the weekend i will photograph the spare wheel holder for you. I believe it is factory. David
  15. 1925 Buick master 55x restoration

    Rod W, I understand what you are saying, however if you look at the 3rd picture in post #13 you will observe that the aluminium bracket is between the tub and the metal bracket that the stud that the "tub bumper" is screwed too. Additionally you can just see a nail (1 of 2 in each bracket) that also secured the bracket to the timber from a 90 degree angle (extra strength?) This could only have been done during the body construction by the builder as it has to be done prior to the upholstery being installed. A personal touch by the coahbuilder i suppose. David.