moran75

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About moran75

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  1. ..would it be a good idea to add an in line fuse for the spliced choke?....The orange wire for the kick down will be fused but i'm guessing a much higher amp than the 2A i think i'll need for the choke? Im basing the 2A on the 10.5 ohms resistance of the coil...as i said, im learning so i might be barking completely up the wrong tree... Kev
  2. thanks for all for the comments - who new electric chokes could be so much fun! Unfortunately i'm forced into this course of action due to circumstances beyond my control....would have preferred to keep the how air, seems so much more simpler...
  3. Rather humourously the prior owner of the car - for reasons only known to them - tried re-routing the hot air stove pipe up to the choke. He drilled a hole in the top side of the manifold to accompolish this, and the 'old' original nipple was removed and left unplugged... Luckily he didn't tap into the exhaust gasses, but sadly missed the tube that heats the air as well!....So electric choke it is...
  4. Re advice not to link up to voltage regulator....is this on a safety basis or just that the kick down is easier? Always looking to learn, you see ...I was under impression that brown terminal 4 just goes to ACC on ignition switch so wold be a viable option ? All the best Kev
  5. Hi ive spliced an electric choke into brown terminal 4 of regulator ... with engine off my test light is barely lighting on positive terminal of choke . Time did not allow to further investigate whilst at the car. Thinking about it , at first I put it down to maybe using a smaller gauge of wire for the choke splice. However, although it’s probably wise to use the same gauge wire as the brown originating from regulator for the splice to the choke, I’m now thinking that when engine is actually started, maybe the regulator will increase voltage from terminal 4/brown to the choke? Would there be any truth in my theory? many thanks Kev
  6. Many thanks for the advice .. I’ll be resuming tomorrow, so fingers crossed
  7. Many thanks..and thanks for the tips. My kit didn't come with a replacement adjuster return spring, so i'm using the one i've got which looks good. Up until reading your post i hadn't removed it from the adjuster arm when attempting to fit everything, which may have added to my problems - i'm assuming then i should remove it and attach it last ... One other question re. the star adjuster - would it be a good idea if i wound it all the way in, thus shortening its length, before fitting? Cheers Kev
  8. Added - would have used pic of my car but this one seemed so much clearer as a reference - looks brand new. However, i now note when i referred to a bottom brown spring i meant the bottom red spring in the pic (mine is brown).. Cheers Kev
  9. Hi All I'm replacing my brake pads/associated hardware. Ive attached a pic - not of my car by the way, but for reference purposes a random pic that very clearly shows the brake shows/coloured brake springs etc on a 65 Riv. Can i ask the best order to install the coloured springs after attaching the pads? My first attempt failed - i started from the bottom with the brown spring/screw adjuster but found that i then couldn't get any 'give' to position the red rod (top left corner) - didn't get as far as the blues.... All the best Kev
  10. Hi All I'm replacing my brake pads/associated hardware. Ive attached a pic - not of my car by the way, but for reference purposes a random pic that very clearly shows the brake shows/coloured brake springs etc on a 65 Riv. Can i ask the best order to install the coloured springs after attaching the pads? My first attempt failed - i started from the bottom with the brown spring/screw adjuster but found that i then couldn't get any 'give' to position the red rod (top left corner) - didn't get as far as the blues.... All the best Kev
  11. If you have family history in Co. leitrim in Ireland we could be related !
  12. many thanks chaps, and for your very quick response... sounds like good news ..
  13. Hi all my 65 was a non runner / stopper when I bought it -though I have now got it running (not stopping) and am moving onto other areas that need attn.... My question is if anyone knows if there is a resource /drawing etc relating specifically to working of the button on top of the stick shift and how it relates to shifting gears through the transmission? Appears not to be listed in manual. Maybe because it’s blindingly obvious but I’ve no experience with such things.... hence wanting to to read up..... i anticipate having to work on the stick shift/button on top the consul as it feels imprecise , and although it moves freely thru Park to L2 , when out of P (where it ‘locks’ into place with a satisfying click ) the button doesn’t seem to have much effect,/use and is not needed to shift thru range...the satisfying click is not repeated. many thanks in advance kev
  14. My new purchase

    Good news - one more Brit now on board! I also imported a fist gen, in my case last summer - a '65. Feel free to give me a call on 07932 490979 any time to swap notes... 07932 490979. Kev