moran75

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About moran75

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  1. So...quite a lot to get my head around...so bear with me...am I right in saying that if I don’t repair /adjust the cables, leave the heat/defroster levers as is - midway - and leave heater blower off...then even if all A/C system is perfect (just for arguments sake) then it won’t work properly because of the possibly engaged heater valves/diaphragms etc? or if the heater system is just not working at all, for what ever reason ,then I could repair A/C and use it as per normal despite the heater problems? thanks Kev
  2. Hi All Bear with me on this lengthy background - the straightforwad enough questions I have are at the end... I do have a manual and the section re combined heater/air con system is quite a read ...so before I get stuck in can I pick your brains... Current situation is : 1) heater/defroster controls can only be moved from halfway point to full on. Cannot be moved from halfway to off position . 2)blower doesn’t work 3)no noticeable heat produced 4)air con blower works...both levers have free movement ...when blower on and levers sent to max I have air but not cold So when i I bought the car it hadn’t been used for years. The seller told md the previous owner had ‘deliberately cut the control cables for heater short’ - hence point (1) above. He didn’t know why someone would do that but was adamant about it. Question 1) if the info given was correct does anyone know why anyone would want to deliberately stop heater control cables being switched off? Is it an old skool trick to prevent something ‘bad’ happening, with perhaps a failing heater core? Or anything else.... By the way I can can live with current situation re heater levers/lack of blower/heat .... BUT question 2) i’dlike the A/C to work. Before I top up refrigerant will the fact that heater levers can’t be pulled to off position mean A/C won’t blow cold even if system/refrigerant is good? A bit long winded I know...but I got to the point in the end! cheers kev
  3. ..interestingly the rest of Europe drives on the right side of the road because of the Emperor Napoleon's conquests in the 18th Century - its a French thing apparently. He didn't manage to conquer us...we liked the left historically because as most people are right-handed, and swordsmen preferred to keep to the left in order to have their right arm nearer to an opponent and their scabbard further from him...why you guys didn't inherit that because of our 'shared' history is anyone's guess..
  4. Hi all At last - after 10 years in storage (in the US) and then best part of a year with me in the UK 'tinkering' - my special order paint '65 has come back to life...here's a link to a short youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2MZNAsxuK4 Couldn't have done it without help from this forum so many thanks to all - very glad to return a 65 to the road where it belongs..... All the best Kev
  5. Here are the pics...apologies for the delay ...drivers mat
  6. Hi all Is there a way of identifying original mats? I've attached a couple of pics of ref numbers on the back of mine - wondering if they were part numbers or other coding, possibily indicating after market or original.. Just in case pics are not clear one number is '12-63: 4264L-PPI-D' and the other '4264R-PPI-P' Many thanks Kev
  7. Hi All If i'm correct the attached pics show the location (front access hole) and a close up of the propeller shaft slip spline plug ... In the absence of the 'correct tool' 'Adapter Alemite #327045 will i be able to simply take out the bolt and use an ordinary grease gun/needle to force in some grease? If so how many squirts? thanks in advance Kev
  8. i'm guessing they used mineral based oil back in the day - any harm/advantage in using synthetic? I see synthetics have all kinds of GL ratings as well, bit mind boggling....Might be easier to ask which brand / type would you buy?...Cheers, Kev
  9. Mine shows ‘littelfuse inc’ ....not that I know the difference between that and delco...
  10. Will the unit need to.be replaced in its entirety or can the top section be prised off and replaced? cheers kev
  11. Many thanks ...can you send a close up of the relay...cheers kev
  12. Hi all I've attached a pic of what i'm assuming is my distributor hold down bolt .. Looking at it has got me thinking - what happens if it's rusted tight and/or breaks off when i attempt to adjust timing? Maybe i think too much! But i'm just curious and anyway would prefer to plan ahead for all eventualities...im giessing it would be a major PITA While i think of it does anyone know the bolt size? I only ask as my wrenches are all too long to get under there and i'd prefer not to buy a set of shorter ones if i can just get away with buying the one i need...or a specialist distributor wrench.. Cheers Kev
  13. Hi all I've attached a pic of my horn relay set up , from a 65 Riv - i need to replace the relay and common sense suggests that it can just be pulled out of the - for want of a better word - black triangular bracket at the bottom.. However i don't want to force anything that shouldn't be forced - best to check if its more complicated than that.. Thanks in advance Kev