moran75

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About moran75

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  1. moran75

    '65 wheels

    Hi Ed ....out of interest what do you torque them upto?...I believe it’s different for Rally wheels... cheers kev
  2. Hi Tom can you expand on that for the uninitiated? kev
  3. Thanks chaps...all very informative. I’ll be leaving ‘as is’ - if it’s not broke dont fix it , as they say. Get well soon Ed..sure you’ll be back out on the football field soon.
  4. Hi All im running a stock 1965 riv 401ci. interested in learning a bit about real world operation/benefits of the switch/variable pitch torque converter. When working properly is the high setting automatically switched on when at a stop - in other words you have no choice- or is there some way of manually selecting it as and when you want to pull away a bit quicker from a stop? Off and on when desired? all the best kev
  5. Thanks for commenting so quickly...my door i'snt damaged, certainly not visibly..just slightly lob sided , like a badly hung front door..
  6. Hi All My glove box door opens/closes but doesn't close flush with dash - slightly up on one side and down on other...very annoying as someone has now pointed it out... Is there an easy adjustment, much like on kitchen doors?! Had a look and is not obvious, at least to me .... Scoured the forum and the body service manual but no luck... All the best Kev
  7. Aha...see what you mean, maybe because if vacuum it’s more subtle... will double check ....
  8. Hi all Want to learn a bit more about the workings of the accelerator pump... Running a 65 riv with original carter 4 bl AFB. Engine warm, but turned off - work throttle by hand and I see two nice jets of gas squirted into carb so Acc pump seems good. WhenI try same thing with engine running and in park there are no jets of gas - though engine revs/sounds good. Am I right in saying this is normal and somehow when engine is in D and actually driven, the jets ‘do their thing’ upon initial acceleration? Maybe the vacuum facilitates this? The reason I’m investigating is that I have a ‘bog’ spot when pulling away, but only when pulling away - my money at the moment is on the vacuum advance but that’s another story - at this point just want to learn a bit more about the pump and to confirm my conclusion that it’s working OK based on above tests . Thanks in advance Kev
  9. So...quite a lot to get my head around...so bear with me...am I right in saying that if I don’t repair /adjust the cables, leave the heat/defroster levers as is - midway - and leave heater blower off...then even if all A/C system is perfect (just for arguments sake) then it won’t work properly because of the possibly engaged heater valves/diaphragms etc? or if the heater system is just not working at all, for what ever reason ,then I could repair A/C and use it as per normal despite the heater problems? thanks Kev
  10. Hi All Bear with me on this lengthy background - the straightforwad enough questions I have are at the end... I do have a manual and the section re combined heater/air con system is quite a read ...so before I get stuck in can I pick your brains... Current situation is : 1) heater/defroster controls can only be moved from halfway point to full on. Cannot be moved from halfway to off position . 2)blower doesn’t work 3)no noticeable heat produced 4)air con blower works...both levers have free movement ...when blower on and levers sent to max I have air but not cold So when i I bought the car it hadn’t been used for years. The seller told md the previous owner had ‘deliberately cut the control cables for heater short’ - hence point (1) above. He didn’t know why someone would do that but was adamant about it. Question 1) if the info given was correct does anyone know why anyone would want to deliberately stop heater control cables being switched off? Is it an old skool trick to prevent something ‘bad’ happening, with perhaps a failing heater core? Or anything else.... By the way I can can live with current situation re heater levers/lack of blower/heat .... BUT question 2) i’dlike the A/C to work. Before I top up refrigerant will the fact that heater levers can’t be pulled to off position mean A/C won’t blow cold even if system/refrigerant is good? A bit long winded I know...but I got to the point in the end! cheers kev
  11. ..interestingly the rest of Europe drives on the right side of the road because of the Emperor Napoleon's conquests in the 18th Century - its a French thing apparently. He didn't manage to conquer us...we liked the left historically because as most people are right-handed, and swordsmen preferred to keep to the left in order to have their right arm nearer to an opponent and their scabbard further from him...why you guys didn't inherit that because of our 'shared' history is anyone's guess..
  12. Hi all At last - after 10 years in storage (in the US) and then best part of a year with me in the UK 'tinkering' - my special order paint '65 has come back to life...here's a link to a short youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2MZNAsxuK4 Couldn't have done it without help from this forum so many thanks to all - very glad to return a 65 to the road where it belongs..... All the best Kev
  13. Here are the pics...apologies for the delay ...drivers mat