Wheelmang

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About Wheelmang

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 12/21/1949

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Talking Rock, GA
  • Interests:
    Old cars - stamp collecting, golf, travel, photography.

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  1. Thanks for the picture Pete. I am working on a parts order for Myers and going with a new face.
  2. Ah - that will work. Thanks
  3. Thanks Ron. I would prefer to use my original. It is working fine it just needs a face lift.
  4. Thanks for the try Tom but mine is totally different. It work similar with a series of three cork pieces on a lever that is directly connected to the needle on the face. I will post a picture of what I have tomorrow. I am looking to recreate the face that is under the needle.
  5. Well I guess I screwed up. I had to drop the pan in order to put the oil level indicator in position. I figured as long as it was down it would be a good time to repaint it. It was a shade of gray that closely matched a can of Duplicolor at O'Rielly's. Does that mean it is no longer OE. It was gray along with the flywheel cover. Engine appears to VERY dark green or possibly black.
  6. Would someone please post a picture of the fuel gauge (on the tank) for a 1926 DB sedan. All surface print on mine is missing. It looks like it may have had a green background but that is all I can tell. Thanks Paul
  7. Somewhere in the thread is a spec for 150 lbs on the nut. Could someone please confirm this as it seems awful tight. I am currently at about 75 and have no play in the wheel end. Thanks all for the input Paul
  8. Not at all familiar with CA fuel regs but here in N GA there are usually No-E pumps in areas close to lakes for all the boats.
  9. Just a follow up - I received the new old key and it is definitely steel. The old one that a PO had used is definitely bronze. Wonder why it failed??
  10. Hi Ron: I have not had things other than postage stamps shipped to me from outside the country. Would you have any idea for the time and shipping cost to ZIP 30175 plus what you are looking at for a price on the horn. I am going to go with keeping wife, self and purest all happy. If there should be an event of some kind that we are attending the Ooga will be swapped out for an OE. The car is so much a survivor in every other aspect it seems the only correct way to do this. That is also the reason I do not want to use an inverter. Thanks all for fun and serious comment. The forum is GREAT!! Paul
  11. After a little more deducing I think the key had actually worked it's way between the hub and the grease retainer and lodged partially in the grease retainer. The flat interior surface of the hub and the end of the hub with the key slot show the most evidence of rotational interference. Fortunately the only damage found is the severely bent key and grease retainer. The remaining components show results of the key not where it should have been, but nothing other than cosmetic damage. The damaged key is definitely not steel. I am thinking bronze, (it is gold colored and too dense to be brass) and there is very little magnetic attraction. Another error by the PO?? Perhaps, if this is supposed to be steel, that is the reason for the failure and the reason the PO had so much torque applied to the spindle nut. I do have a used and presumed OE key on the way from Myers and will do the magnet test for comparison. To Mr. Bohlig's and Spinneyhill's points - I too would have expected shearing along the lines of the taper but perhaps it worked it's way out of the key way before that happened. Thanks all for the input on this. Paul
  12. I presume it somehow got lodged in part of the grease retainer. I am not real sure as it fell to the floor when I pulled the wheel off. The wheel would only rotate a few inches. Guess the PO was exaggerating a little when he said he had driven it before putting away the last time.
  13. The nut had way more than 150 lbs. spindle is a taper. The washer under the nut was also galled up pretty bad. It is a tapered spindle. Myers did have a used key and it is on the way. I will look for your other cautions. Thanks for your input.
  14. My 26 DB pushed awful hard when loading and unloading so the logical conclusion was the brakes were frozen. I put the rear end up on jack stands and sure enough the left rear was pretty much locked up. See the pictures for what I found. My theory is, the PO did not see the need for a cotter pin the last time the wheel was off. This resulted in the nut over tightening with the resulting failure. Wheel bearings, key slot and all other components are fine. The wheel bearing is cleaned and the axle is reinstalled with appx. .005 end play. I hammered the grease retainer back to an acceptable working condition. However before reinstalling the wheel (after finding a new key) could someone who knows a lot more about it than me please comment on my theory? If the missing cotter pin is not the problem what else should I be looking for. Does anyone have a source for the key? I looked at Myers and did not see any. It appears to be 5/16" brass? Thanks all for your valued input.
  15. Thanks for the offer Roberto but my car is a 6 V.