Jase

I had Jeff and co do some metal work some years ago on my 50 Hudson Super six Brougham. Devon, Jeff's son, is a metal work genius!! The rest of the crew are equally talented. I can't say enough great things about PDR. Plus, they've become good friends.

Matt, where did you get the spring spreaders? Evil bay? My my experience with Reyco and Mack Camelback HEAVY spring suspensions on big trucks is this: if the springs are noticeably rusted, as yours seem to be, the pack HAS to come apart and be blasted smooth, and leaves painted. The rust pits tend to "lock" the leaves together and not allow them to move independently of each other (think of Velcro and you have the basic result). I think all you will do with the spray cleaning is postpone the inevitable..... Best, Jase

The first question to ask is this: what is the current state that the car is located in? If the car is in fact in VA, then the Abandoned Vehicle Process that Brass is Best posted a link to is the best way to go about getting a good title thru the Va DMV. CAUTION: do NOT think about BSing, and saying that the car is located in Va (the form/affidavit wants a specific storage address). If you falsely swear info on the form that you KNOW is incorrect, in Va it's a felony. AND! DMV inspectors have been checking to prevent abuse of the programme. Its really pretty easy to go thru the process in Va, I do it regularly. Mostly I am doing MSL (mechanic/ storage liens) but I personally have done the AVP three times now. Best Jase

Hi Aquila, My thoughts are as follows: DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it attracts moisture. The DOT 5 is silicon based, so it does not. Hence, the popularity of the DOT 5 fluid for our rarely driven collector cars. The two fluids are utterly incompatible, and if you want to change fluid types you must either replace ALL seals or flush the system with alcohol. I expect that the failed wheel cylinder will have rust pitting internally due to the above mentioned moisture attraction. Usually the rears are the first to blow due to the fact they are lowest point in the system and the water collects there. I would replace or sleeve the two rear wheel cylinders, and possibly the master. Then bleed the entire system until you get good fresh fluid at all bleeders. Then, just drive the car! I don't think that I would go to the trouble of changing to DOT 5. To tell if you have DOT 5 already in the system, look at the fluid colour, the DOT 3 & 4 is brownish, the DOT 5 is purplish. Also, make sure your parking brake is functional and in adjustment, just in case you have a failure again. Safe travels, and what a lovely car!

Harold, I'll take these. How do you want payment? I also would like the two British books on engines. Any other reading matter? Thanks Jase

Xander, as best I can figure, it's an attempt at rust repair. Looks more like a demonstration of "Baby's first MIG", the upper patch panel appears to be a cut up road sign...and there is "wire hair" all over on what passes for the weld beads. All in all, I guess it's nice that the fenders don't have rust holes there.... But they will take some work to get "right".

Restoration Specialties in Windber PA maybe?

Lolol. How d'ya do a "frame-up" on a unibody, sorry "Monobilt"? I'm good, finally got said Hudson driving, been having fun with it. I've passed y'all's name around the Hudson world some, as being competent and honest/fair. Did you guys get that Carved Side hearse done? latest 2 projects attached, a 41 and a 61. 61 has been in the family since 66. ? Best Jase

Jeff, try Lance Walker in NC. 704. 792. 9 one one zero. If that doesn't pan out, I may have some local contacts with one. BTW, your earlier post that this 49 is the "first Hudson" you've done....heartbreaking that my 50 Super 6 was so easily forgettable Best Jase