Black River

I keep popping back on every few months waiting to see my Black River show up again, but no luck so far. Last I heard it was in the mid-west not looking nearly as sharp or shiny sitting outside, but that was a year or two ago.

https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/d/leavenworth-1965-buick-riviera/7550499240.html 1965 Buick Riviera - $15,000 (Leavenworth) 1965 Buick Riviera condition: good cylinders: 8 cylinders drive: rwd fuel: gas odometer: 26860 odometer broken paint color: blue title status: clean transmission: automatic 1965 Buick Riviera runs and drives great. New battery, exhaust and Edelbrock Carburetor.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/portland-1963-buick-riviera/7550374163.html 1963 Buick Riviera - $58,500 (PDX) 1963 BUICK RIVIERA condition: like new cylinders: 8 cylinders drive: rwd fuel: gas odometer: 18000 paint color: green size: full-size title status: clean transmission: automatic type: coupe ******************** COLLECTORS AND DEALERS WELCOME ***************************** The First Documented 1963 Buick Riviera in the Northwest! Ordered new from the factory by a Doctor in Gresham, OR in 1963. The car was then purchased by a local business owner in 1966 with all documentation since New! After 54 years of his ownership I was able to make a couple of purchases out of his personal car collection and this is a truly once in a lifetime opportunity to own the most original Riviera on the planet! Factory Optional 425" 465 Wildcat Motor (extremely rare and impossible to find). Recent $4000.00 paint detail bringing this paint to show quality! This is one of the fastest appreciating cars in my collection and will certainly see prices north of $100K. You will never find an example like this in absolutely PERFECT working order! Stunning in person and always the Main Attraction everywhere you take it! ******************** CASH ONLY PLEASE - NO DREAMERS THIS IS THE REAL DEAL *****************

As Tom said, there's two screws holding the lid on. Loosen them and you can get some adjustment out of it.

Picked up another set off eBay today

Well, I started a new "hobby" collecting and restoring valve covers, which I needed to do because the 5 other things I've got taking up all my time and money weren't enough ...anyway, so I'm on the lookout for any brand's V8 valve covers. Singles are alright, don't need to be sets. They don't need to be mint, small dings are ok, because they're just going to be wall hangers so I'll be doing some body filler on them anyway. The more interesting the better, and aftermarket or stock is great, but only after vintage parts. Not after things like Chinese chrome SBC covers. The ones I already have are: '63 Nailheads, 2 versions of "Power by Ford" 385 series, "Power by Ford" FE series, a couple versions of SBC and BBC, and I just picked up a factory set off a Chevy 409. PM me if you've got anything I might be interested in, really, really looking for the different versions Oldsmobile Rockets and a finned factory aluminum Thunderbird. Thanks!Lucas

I found a lot of things different between my early build '63 and even just later on '63s when I was buying parts for it during it's rebuild. Different sized fuse panel cover, for one. Never did locate one that fit, and I bought 3 that were supposedly correct.

Is your starter wired up yet? I remember mine had violet and yellow going to it, don't remember a connector like that, though.

Thanks Jason! Had to sell the beloved Riviera to get it, but it has always been the other (realistic) dream car of mine besides the Mach 1.

Thanks Yep, was a labor of love for a few years, lots and lots of work. Miss it but couldn't afford my '60 Coupe Deville without sacrificing it. Build thread from the time I picked it up until it got loaded on the trailer for the new owner: http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/my-63-riviera-custom.316125/

1996 Riviera for sale on the V8 forum. Briz is a really good guy: http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/96-riviera-titled-parts-car.360601/

20x8.5 and 20x10 Ridler 695s on my former Riv.

Not a Riv, but none for me, either. Luckily my paint was ok and I just had to buff the edge a bit. You want a car to look like it's one piece as much as possible from a design flow point of view. The less things breaking up the profile, the better.

X2 on what Tom said. If you're going to pay someone else to do it, Jim W is the man for the job: http://www.trishieldperformance.com/

Nope, not off base, just a lot of misinformation and old wives tales out there about AvGas 100LL. It's all we had back in the day for race engines and before hardened seats became a thing on rebuilds. Like I said, years and years of real world experience running it instead of hearsay with nothing but positive results on anything that is not fuel injected, and the only reason not to run it on those is because it will foul O2 sensors.

I've been running 50/50 mix of 100LL and pump non-ethanol 91 octane in my 13.5:1 552 cubic inch iron head Ford for 13 years. Ran the same mix on the nitrous oxide 351 Cleveland that was in it for 15 years before that. Without the 100LL it'll ping itself to death, with it we're good to go. We also ran the same in our drag cars since I was just a little tyke and my Dad drag raced back in the 80s, because there was no such thing as the internet and race gas wasn't readily available. My older brother ran it straight in his 11 second Chevelle..... I've heard plenty of naysayers and have yet to have someone actually give me a reason why not to run it. Usually I get the "because it's dry" excuse, whatever dry fuel means and it seems the people that tell me that can't explain it, either. I ran it in my Riviera, and I run it in both my Cadillacs, I ran it in my 2 stroke race bikes and I still run it in my 2 stroke 200 hp 800 cc snowmobile. And I put the little few ounces left in the bottom of my 5 gallon jugs into my lawn mower, because nothing smells better then "race gas" and fresh cut lawn. I've heard the "theories", but I personally have nearly 30 years experience running it in my cars and other equipment, and many others have even more. It's $4.50/gallon, and that's cheap insurance to me.

Message returned

Hello, I have some leftovers from my '63 I sold a while ago. I'm looking to get $90 for all of it plus shipping. I think I should be able to get all the parts in 1 or 2 USPS flat rate boxes, otherwise shipping cost will be from 59801. Ok, here's the list. I have: 1) complete set of Trim Parts exterior door handles and gaskets. New, never installed. 1) set of brand new never installed TS 197 Napa brake shoes for the front. 1) new never installed passenger side Soffseal quarter to front glass seal. My car only needed the driver's side, so this is a leftover. 2) good used front shocks, part number 739087 (I believe these are Gabriels). Missing some of the upper rubber bushings and washers. Removed only because I lowered the car. 2) good used rear shocks, part number 739609 (Believed to be Gabriels as well). Removed only because I lowered the car. 1) lower dash panel cover for driver's side. I believe it goes over the fuse panel, did not fit my early build '63. My car was rewired so there was nothing under it when I got it. It's black, but it would need to be repainted. 1) 4 blade fan. Take some or take it all, it will be $90 plus shipping and I'll just toss what isn't wanted/needed in the recycle bin. Scuff plate and rear window trim pictured have already been tossed in the garbage because it wouldn't be worth the shipping cost for you to get them, they were rough. Give me a call or text at 406-214-5397. I don't get on here much, so text or call would be your best bet. Thanks for your time! Lucas

sold

Sale pending

Looking to sell the rolling stock off my '60 Deville. I have 4 chrome Kelsey Hayes wheels. 2 are in great shape (run on the front) 1 is decent, and the 4th is one that I always run hidden under the skirt. Center caps are good, but the ones I run on the rear do have a couple small dings. Cap logos look like they've been repainted on the two nicer center caps. Tires are nearly new Hankook Optimo white walls in 235/75R15. Tires don't have more then 500 miles on them, mounted, balanced, and roll smooth. Car does not shake a bit with these wheels and tires. Just looking to step into something different for my car.Pics show the 2 good fronts, the pic with the skirt pulled off is of the worst wheel and cap. I couldn't get the skirt off the passenger side where my car currently is parked, but it is in similar but better shape then the bad wheel pictured. Tires/wheels do not leak air like you hear about some Sabres doing.Since these are not perfect I'm not asking a perfect price. You're getting two really good wheels to run on the front of your ride to be proud of and two to put on the back with your skirts that are still shiny and nobody will noticed they aren't in the best shape unless they get down and look at them. Looking to get $675 for the whole set-up with wheels, tires, and center caps ready to bolt on and go for thousands and thousands of miles. Shipping cost will be on the buyer, and will be leaving from Missoula, MT zip code 59808 if you need to guesstimate shipping cost.Feel free to give me a call or text at 406-214-5397. Leave a message if I don't answer and I'll get back at you asap.Thanks.Lucas

Hi, I just bought a dream car of mine, a 1960 Coupe Deville. I'm going to replace the speakers with something "better", and need to know what size the factory speakers are. Anyone know off hand? I believe the dash speaker is a 4x10, but I'm getting mixed signals about the rear speaker(s). I know about the ohms of the factory stuff and that is not a concern, just need the sizes. Thanks for your time! Lucas

Exactly what my post was about. I'm into modified cars, but I realized that this forum isn't for my modified cars, which is why I left. I also realize I can still glean some needed info about my stuff from here if I need to know a factory spec or the way something was put together, which is why I came back. As I said in my post, there's plenty of other forums out there for guys like me and my modified stuff, and I use them. I also come back on here to try to help out with technical things, as I've been in the automotive fields for 20+ years of my 40 year old life, and have degrees in metal fab and body work, build my own engines, transmissions, suspensions, a little upholstery and everything else that goes along with having built over 20 cars both stock and modified. It's a great forum. I think you guys should keep it "stock" style. But someone saying that something from the '50s or '60s is too new to be included on here because it can keep up with modern traffic is ridiculous.

As someone that originally found this forum after I bought my (highly modified) 1963 Riviera, and subsequently left for a few years after getting tired of being lambasted about the modifications done to my car by various members, I have begun to come back every so often to try to help out with technical answers and if I need to find some bit of info I can't find on other forums. I also own a modified 1972 Mach 1, 1974 F100, 1977 F250 Highboy, and a completely stock factory original (except for wheels) 1970 Coupe Deville with 90k miles that I am the second owner of. I appreciate all kinds of cars, from factory fresh restos, preserved cars, trucks, all the way to highly modified customs. This has been a great source of info, and when I left I decided that this was not the sandbox for me to play in, and that was fine. There's plenty of other forums out there for guys like me that build and enjoy all kinds of cars, fabrication, and customization. The one thing I will say to everyone that is hard line "stock only" and wanting only vehicles that are manufactured before "such and such" year, especially the guys that think something like a car from the 50s is too modern, is this: Be careful what you wish for. If you haven't been paying attention for the last 20 years or so, check out some results from auctions and even what kinds of cars are put out there for sale at all. Pay attention to what kinds of cars are at car shows, or Heaven forbid a car cruise where we actually drive our stuff in town (in traffic!!!!), that aren't associated with the AACA.......Completely factory stock is great. I love cars like that. But they are not what is popular, and the cars/owners (I'm sorry to say) are a dying breed. In 20 years, if the closed mindedness continues, there won't be anyone around to keep the classics going, at least not in the way that you want them to be. Try to appreciate the fact that guys are keeping them going and alive for the world to enjoy, modified or not, and not letting them all rust away in junkyards, backyards, and "barns".

You just have to get a drop base (about $8) then do a little testing and dinging here and there depending on your carburetor. Not a big whoop after I figured it out.