AZVET

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About AZVET

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday September 18

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kingman, AZ
  • Interests:
    Military, hot rods and Corvettes

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  1. AZVET

    Dimmer switch works after 2 years!

    The "new" inverter is now resting in its nest of wires under the dash.
  2. AZVET

    Dimmer switch works after 2 years!

    I was able to get the dash inverter replaced before lunch although I have not tested it yet. It was fairly easy with the dash cover removed. I cut the plastic attachment nub with a utility knife and then fished out the inverter with a claw grabber. I almost forgot to unhook the battery. I'm not ready to fry anything so I feel it was worth the effort even if I do have to reset the clock, radio stations and the HVAC info. Pics are of the "new" inverter, a pointer to the location of the old one and my claw.
  3. I have been a member there for quite a while. There seem to be a lot of confused owners who are ready to give up as they do not have access to good advice. Some of the members also give poor of incorrect advice too. I just posted there with an invitation to join this forum. I feel this forum along with the Reatta Owner's Journal are the best place on the net for good advice and help. Kudos to each of you helpful sisters and brothers👼
  4. AZVET

    Dimmer switch works after 2 years!

    Some tips: My 88 is 30 years old and resided in Phoenix most of its life. The plastic parts are brittle and the padded portion of the dash cracks/crumbles easily. If you do not have a fabric dash cover I would suggest you purchase one to cover this mess up after the job is done. If you do happen to bust the defroster grille when prying it out then it can readily be fixed with plastic or super glue. There is a foam pad that attached under the dash that was surprisingly intact. Take your time and follow the instructions in the Reatta Owner's Journal. You can do this! Now on to the inverter!
  5. AZVET

    Dimmer switch works after 2 years!

    I am not concerned with the looks of my dash cover as the car came with a nice gray felt cover already installed. It appears that Bubba glued it on. Glue has dried out and now it fits on there by gravity. There is a small vent grille in the middle of the cover where the "in car temp sensor" and its aspirator hose attach with 10mm speed nuts to plastic studs. One of mine broke off.
  6. AZVET

    Dimmer switch works after 2 years!

    There are 3 Torx screws that hold the top of the dash in after removing the defroster grille. One at each end and one in the middle. I got the defroster grille removed by prying it out with a short flat head screw driver. I was surprised about how much it would bend without breaking! Pic of the dash cover and the "new" sensor:
  7. AZVET

    Dimmer switch works after 2 years!

    The top cover is still off. I probably could have replaced the converter last night but I had to watch the Batchelorette! I had to laugh at this statement in my FSM: "Gently pull grille straight up to remove". Yeah right. What about the plastic pieces that hold it in place? See pic.
  8. I replaced the photocell in the dash and the console lights now work and my dimmer switch works! I have been reluctant to start this project but with the help of the how to section in the Reatta Owner's Journal I was able to pull it off. The lighted buttons to the left and right of the instrument panel still don't work though. Back to the Journal for more advice. I did purchase a used power inverter at the same time I got the photocell. I can see the old one just under the driver side A pillar but I bet it is impossible to get to from above. I took a lot of pics on this project and will post them up tomorrow along with some tips.
  9. AZVET

    knock sensor

    Throws no codes
  10. AZVET

    knock sensor

    Test drive is a constant ED16 0 and ED17 158. The car accelerates nicely and idles smooth as it did before the change. I will have to do a longer drive to test the fuel mileage. At least I didn't screw anything up. One plus was that I pitched the crappy crescent wrench I bought at the Ace Hardware bargain bin and sprung for a new Craftsman. The cheap one would change width when I bumped it against anything. Grrrrrrrr. When the cheap one would not hold its spacing I was forced to crawl out from under the car and search for the correct socket instead. It's not easy at my age.🧔
  11. From reading here I found that the problem with my interior lights could be fixed by simply replacing the photocell in my dashboard. 88 Reatta. I bought a good used one from Jim Finn but have not installed it yet. I rarely drive the car at night and I have been a bit scared about digging into the dash. I am not worried about breaking the plastic pieces as I have a good dash mat to cover up any nastiness. What is the best way to remove and reinstall this photocell? This is almost the last fix on my to do list. Then next biggie is replacing the intake manifold gaskets and PCV valve.
  12. AZVET

    knock sensor

    I will do a test drive later today.
  13. AZVET

    knock sensor

    Installed a new knock sensor today to hopefully get better fuel mileage. I get an average of 15mpg which is mostly city driving. I also do not seem to be able to climb the mountains around here very easily. My test mountain goes from 600 feet to 3,400 in just a few miles. I will do a road test tomorrow to see how it behaves. Just a few tips: The sensor is located above the passenger side CV joint (see the copper colored thing in the first pic). Use a 22mm socket with a medium extension and stubby ratchet. If you have a "Santa" belly like mine then lift the front of the car up with a jack and use jack stands - I drove the right front tire up on a Rhino Ramp and could barely fit! Wear safety glasses as plastic pieces of the connector kept breaking off and hitting my right eye (I wear glasses) when I tried to remove it - when I got the old sensor fully removed I got some drops of oil on my right eye, lips and into my right nostril!
  14. I will have the seller call you direct. His name is Karl Larson.
  15. I know the seller but have never seen the car in person. I offered advice on how to market it better but he just wants it gone. If I get the story correctly he purchased it from a museum and they had spent a huge amount of money restoring it. I am very happy to own a dry, desert car myself. It is a pleasure to work on a non rusty vehicle. This is a freakin bargain at $2,000 Red interior with 16 way seats. size: compacttitle status: cleantransmission: automatictype: coupe White 90 coupe with burgundy interior, 86,500 (almost) original miles. .these are hand-built cars, not on an assembly line, and there were only 21,000 made 1988-1991. . . receipts for $17,000 worth of work done on it ten years ago, including total ABS replacement, a/c changed over to modern r134 refrigerant, and a whole lot of minor things. .and it's only been driven a few thousand miles since then as it was in a car museum in Montana ..has the original paperwork including owners manual and window sticker ($29,585) and signed builders sheet. . and the antenna and lights go up and down properly. .radio works but not the cassette deck and the air conditioning needs a new condenser to work as the current one is apparently leaking . . .has the optional 16-way power seat.. .two sets of keys with clickers. .and a factory shop manual . .it's in Kingman Arizona it has a clean Arizona title and NO RUST . . although the service engine soon light is on, and giving an error code in the onboard diagnostics for cam position sensor. .apparently a reading it sometimes gets at startup but then it goes away and it runs GREAT with no other error codes for the engine those things aside. the 3.8 liter V-6 alwaysalways fires right up and runs smoothly and quietly with no smoke or strange noises and has plenty of power. . . and for this price it is ONE HELL OF A DEAL (and I'll be losing a chunk of money on it, but I need it GONE) I can hook you up with him if you need. I can also test drive it and give you my opinion of the car