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About SaddleRider

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/27/1940

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  • Location:
    cant get there from here
  • Interests:
    if it goes "wihhrr" "click"......or "buzz" I like it and when I get the chance, I take it apart to see how it works....
  1. '37 Data Tag Info?

    Huh ? The Packards assembled in Canada were superior to the ones coming out of East Grand Ave ? I understand they included parts of Canadian mfg. In what respect were the parts and/or the cars themselves superior ?
  2. Comparing 1931 Cadillacs -- V8 vs. V12

    John has an excellent point - when pumping fuel into a old carb., there most definitely is the risk of a catastrophic fire. This holds true regardless of the year of the carb, and whether you are feeding fuel to it thru a vacuum tank, mechanical fuel pump, or electric fuel pump. A word of caution on adding an electric fuel pump to eliminate vapor lock. Be sure you use an "AutoPulse" type, meaning one that by design wont go over 5-7 pls PSI. By the early 1930's, the then new concept of mechanical fuel pumps was pretty reliable - given the design of the "float valve", they would not leak even well above the design fuel pressures of the day of 4-7 lbs. By the 1950's, new techniques in rubber made a rubber-tipped float valve possible. This provided an even better seal, and thus even better protection against the danger of leakage, and thus over-filling the carb.'s bowl to the point of where gas could be spilled on hot motor parts. But that was then. Over the years, who knows what evils lurks in the bowls of old carbs. Same for old vacuum tanks. I strongly recommend to anyone operating a carb. equipped car of ANY year, to pull it apart, make sure the bowl is clean (meaning nothing that could cause the float valve to not "seat" properly) and use a good fuel filter between the gas tank and whatever kind of fuel pump you are using.
  3. Packard

    A point made by many others in other parts of the forum suggest something - that it invariably makes far, far more sense...if you are interested in collector cars, to buy one in serviceable condition, than to try and revive what someone else has helped the elements to abuse. It makes sense if you like collector cars, because you will have a car you can use and enjoy. It makes sense economically, because to resurrect something that has been abused, generally winds up costing many thousands, typically TENS if not HUNDREDS of thousands to bring back. So sad to see people abandon the collector car hobby, because they THOUGHT they were in love with some derelict, only to find it ate them alive from both a time and money standpoint.
  4. I recommend people use our forum to benefit each other with helpful information. Using the Internet to act out personal vendettas because you disagree with someone is not a helpful practice.
  5. Babbitt Engine Rebuilder in Pennsylvania Area

  6. You are correct. Worked fine for many years ( provided the car was used according to the road speeds for which it was designed). But that was then., The owner/operator manual of the Rolls Royce Phantom III ( their 1936-1940 passenger car V-12) uses typical British "tact" to suggest one not "push their luck" with sustained high speed driving....! I do not speak or read German well-enough - so I can only quote what I read somewhere that Damiler-Benz had a similar warning for its Mercedes line.
  7. Be assured I agree that from what I have seen, your shop does competent, quality work. Sorry you confused my comments to the point where you think I despise anything or anyone in here ! The automobile industry supplied many millions of cars that ran many millions of miles prior to the adaption of "precision insert" connecting rods. But that was then. I have no quarrel with those who are certain their pre-war cars will only be operated on show grounds to move from the trailer to the display area, or if they are absolutely convinced their pre-war car will only be operated at the road/engine speeds for which it was designed. For that application, "poured babbitt" connecting rod bearings will work just fine. The comments of some of you are in error if you think "precision insert" style connecting rod bearings are somehow cheaper and/or easier to produce than a "babbit" job. If you are seriously interested in the issues related to the industry wide adoption of "precision insert" rod bearings, I recommend going to the SAE ( Society Of Engineers ) site - they have an outstanding library of their articles. While these articles are written by legimate automotive engineers, most of those articles were deliberately designed to be understood by laymen. I hope I mis-understood what I read elsewhere in this thread - that some think it is an acceptable shop practice to pour ordinary babbet - to fill the void, in a connecting rod bearing that was originally set up for "inserts". Babbitt that thick, in the place of an engineered insert, is an invitation to disaster. For the simple reason that when the Babbitt is that thick, it cannot transfer the loads of service without eventually cracking up and flacking out.. (From what I know from personal experience, having to help people out who have made that mistake....the average life of a poured Babbitt job on a 1935 - 1939 Packard V-12 connecting rod, was around 1,800 miles before destructive rod bearing failure.). The automotive industry was not happy with the additional expense and complexity of going to "precision insert" connecting rod bearings. It had no choice for obvious reasons established by changing driving speeds & the laws of physics which do not change!. Those of you who think you can substitute what you want to believe, for that of qualified automotive engineers, are doing a disservice for whoever winds up with a motor you worked on.
  8. Sorry that my comments could be interpreted as interfering with your business. I apologize for suggesting that there are companies today who can make ANY connecting rod for ANYTHING manufactured EVER on Planet Earth, made in such a way one can use "off-the-shelf" modern "precision insert" type con rod bearings. Clearly you "know" far more than Planet Earth's automotive industry, which abandoned the earlier technology. As a side-note, let's not be too tough on earlier engineering. These guys weren't dumb - they did the best they could with the technology they had to work with. Cable/mechanical brakes ? What choice did they have ? Wasn't till technology developed durable seals could we mass-produce and use hydraulic brakes. Low compression motors with (by today's standards) absurdly low compression ratios. What choice did they have ? How do you get mechanical energy out of low octane fuel unless you have a longer stroke ? Dinky little small-diameter crank pins ? What choice did they have ? The larger diameter the crank-pin, the higher its surface speed. The faster the surface speed of the bearing, the more heat. The higher the heat, the faster the bearing material will fail. Absurdly "low" final drive ratios that guarantee rapid engine failure at higher road speeds ? What choice did they have ? First of all, look at the condition of roads prior to the 1930's. At what speeds did people drive what road speeds did they need the power of those long-stroke motors. Add to that the annoyance in shifting gears in the "pre synchro" days. Sure....with practice you can get pretty good at it....but the less shifting, the more saleable a car. The lower the rear axle ratio, the less shifting necessary ( again...assuming the low speeds of pre 1930's roads). Cars whose bodies were framed in WOOD, on which relatively small pieces of sheet metal were nailed and/or screwed on ? What choice did auto makers have until the mid 1930's, when more advanced steel that was more "drawable" combined with better stamping techniques, allowed for larger shapes with more curves..... Bottom line...correct...those "good old days" weren't so good....but did they have a choice ?
  9. Make your Idler pulleys last longer

    Now why would you do that, with all their engineers and technical background, when we have all these "back-yard experts" in here...?
  10. Make your Idler pulleys last longer

    Hi Greg: You are right. I am completely correct...and I can prove it. The reason I am completely correct...even tho I am wrong a lot of the that I never admit I am wrong...! logically follows that I am "completely correct". Yes, I also recommend greasing new bearings. Well...if they are not already greased...!. As brilliant as I am, I do not substitute my knowledge for that of the engineers of the companies that make bearings.....! About SKF. Interesting. I suspect you got into the corporate history of one of SKF's subsidiaries. SKF has sub-divisions all over the planet. Do you remember reading about a famous bombing raid during the 2nd World War..... by the 8th Army Air Force - to try and eliminate the German ball bearing industry ? Remember the name of the town? Hint, it IS the "S" in SKS.....and that town, after which the SKF company takes its name........ was and is not in Sweden !
  11. Make your Idler pulleys last longer

    Hi Greg - yes - wide variety of quality in import bearings up until recently. Apparently, probably in some measure for liability reasons, just about any bearing you can buy from legit sources in legit packaging..... would meet international standards. You may be aware that "SKF" stands for Schinefurt Kart Works....they license their name to bearing mfgs all over the place. Imagine my surprise when I opened a VOLVO bearing box for the stern drive on my boat. From the looks of it, outstanding quality........, to find the small print confirms it was made in INDIA ! "It takes less than 10 minutes".........oh yeah ? .......what sealed bearings in what application can you get out of the vehicle in 10 minutes....!
  12. Wrong...Herm......while 1950 was a very good year ( I saw it with the original cast ) was not the first year for "insert" connecting rod bearings. By 1935, the concept was becoming industry-wide, with some exceptions, such as Chevrolet and Buick. Someone with real, legit, accurate info. will have to correct me... for Buick I believe it was 1952 production , for Chevrolet 1954.
  13. '37 Data Tag Info?

    1938 Again, I wish the guy would post some photos of the car - again, front, back, and side...and we'd be able to help him know EXACTLY what he has. As for the data plates, I trust you Packard buffs ( see below) are aware that 1938 production did not have the traditional data plate - it was a decal. Almost impossible to find a number. And 1938 was the first production year where Phillips head screws can be found. I am not aware that ANY data plates were stamped when Packards came out of East Grand Ave. My understanding is the dealers were REQUIRED to stamp the data plates for warranty purposes when the regional/distributors turned the car over to dealers. Yes, there was a "factory approved" die. This one looks "legit". As a side note, I have seen all manner of die type styles on authentic Packard data plates, , so clearly not all the delivering dealers had the same die style. I have never seen in all my years (more than a few !) of messing with Packard products....a LEGIT "un-stamped" data plate. By the early 1960's ....VERY authentic LOOKING data plates were available - lots of folks would replace the legit beat-up ones with the beautiful fresh "repros" to go with their fresh restorations. Every once in a while at a car show, some guy will come up to me and make some comment about my data plate - noting it sure LOOKS legit but could not be! I should note that since they ( I have two - one on each side of the cowl ) have been on since then - have a nice 'patina" together with some pre-war screws I found. The guy then gets into arguments with folks who will tell him they sure LOOK authentic, which dosnt go over well...since, again, there are a few folks left who know that 1938 was the one pre-war year there was no traditional Packard data plate....!
  14. '37 Data Tag Info?

  15. Make your Idler pulleys last longer

    I find this "thread" fascinating. I had no idea how inadequate sealed bearings are, or how important it is to mess with them. Clearly, all over the world, the manuals, tech. data....of manufacturers of sealed bearings, and the various applications where they are used are in error; best thing is to ignore them and listen to the "backyard experts" . After all, look at the highways of today - strewn with disabled cars and trucks because people did not mess with their sealed bearings..... Now...all kidding aside.....could the life of a sealed bearing be extended by messing with the seal, injecting fresh lubricant ? Certainly possible - but the other side of that story is - in many cases where a sealed bearing is called for, there is a reason WHY a sealed bearing is called for! An operating environment where contamination is an issue - monkeying around with the seal might well degrade the ability of the seal to seal.....! And there is the question of practicality. Seems to me if I was going to the trouble of removing a sealed bearing from service (given what a "pain" it can be to get at a bearing in many applications....)....I would prefer just to "toss" the thing and replace it. Especially where "monkeying around" with the seal might well compromise the seal, leading to failure and more labor issues. Would anyone be surprised that II am filing this particular thread in the same folder as "cow magnets to improve gas mileage and reduce vapor lock"...?