fh4ever

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About fh4ever

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    South Carolina
  • Interests:
    tinkering

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  1. '39 commander upholstery

    thanks sc38...I dont think that would be the ford seal, it looks like the rubber lip lays down nicely . I think the ford lip would bulge and be uneven. It also looks like the rear (sharp) corner is not cut and glued either which you would have to do with the ford.
  2. '39 commander upholstery

    I am trying to get the seat upholstery going but it has been slow. Been looking around and trying to decide on what kind of material and the color for the seats and door panels. Been contacting suppliers and the local guy too. very time consuming. SC38DLS...can you take some close up pics of your rear vent window seal on the outside? in post #26 (pic with your riding buddy), I think what I am looking at is the rubber lip over the body does not look smooth in the pic...I am wondering if that could be just shadows in the pic or if it could be the ford seal. The ford seal goes more outward rather than over the lip....Carpenters said I might could pull the lip down over the body seam and glue it to the body. Cowtown....In post #15, you mentioned driver's and passenger's seat covers. Mine is a bench seat, is yours split? Thanks for helping me out on the window channel...so grateful to you. Trimacar....what is your advice on the seat cushion material replacement for my front seat, what to use and where to get it? I understand you prefer not to use foam....the cotton-like material is in quite bad shape. Ernie Loga does not do the 39 commander seat covers. I have been talking with automotive interiors though. They only do the seat back and bottom and not the wooden seat frame for the front bench and their stitching pattern is not like the original (it dont have to be but I would prefer it). I still would like to learn this skill for myself so I can say I did it. Hopefully I can get this upholstery sorted out soon. thanks all for your input.
  3. '39 commander upholstery

    getting closer to do the seat upholstery.....wanted to know if anyone ever used Automotive Interiors and Accessories : http://www.automotiveinteriors.com/carpetcars/studebakers/stude.htm They can supply the hog ring style seat covers for the '39 at about half the price of my local guy. Are there any other vendors you guys recommend that can supply pre-sewn seat covers?
  4. misc '39 commander parts needed

    hey cowtown......email sent
  5. hey spinney, when you said mine doesnt quite look right, I had to go look again as my pic shows space above the lower rubber mount. Now I see the problem...the rubber mounts have deteriorated, shrunk, and became permanently squashed. They do have the metal sleeve tube, a large washer on the bottom of the donut, and a large washer (on top ) with a "boss" that fits into the crossmember hole. That shiney area just above the rubber donut is the "boss" on the upper washer....you can actually slide the donut and washers up up and down the sleeve tube about 3mm. The nut can't take up the play as it bottoms against the tube. It should be set up correctly, its just that the rubber has shrunk so much (probably the top donut too) and now it has all that play. My memory has failed me...I had forgotten it was that bad but you can bet its now on my to do list. Thanks for pointing that out. Gary..how do we go about getting drawings from the museum? cost? would it be best to ask the forum for a drawing first?
  6. here is mine ('39)...I assume it is the same... top of the crossmember... and under the crossmember.... does yours have the overdrive? If so, It will have an OD support crossmember.
  7. misc '39 commander parts needed

    35Joe...I have no tranny parts. Cowtown..... that will be fine...just let me know if you find anything.
  8. misc '39 commander parts needed

    hi rbk.....thanks for confirming how the fuse goes together... the serial number is 4128184, been told it is a late '39 since it has the T88-1F tranny. The part number for the 2 shifter arm seals are 196152 and 196151 (ref plate 07-7 on page 247). I should do the OD shift arm seal while at it, but I dont see a seal listed (looking at page 286) would it be listed somewhere else? steel glass mounting channel...its 22" long, it will no problem if I have to cut off the slotted part and reweld it to another channel, so I think a different door can work for me too. thanks all for your replies!
  9. misc '39 commander parts needed

    Cowtown commander...that will be fine.....my channel is rotted down one side and I doubt it will ever grip the glass...the other three channels were in great shape. studeboy....the knob pictured has disintegrated on the shaft side, but other wise in great shape on the front. I can try to repair it or recast it from mine if I have to (or just get round knobs). Just checking to see if there could be an usable knob out there before I spend $$ on casting materials. Not real sure how to put the metal blade in the hole while casting but I can probably figure it out. Thanks for your offer. I finally located the knob in the parts catalog and it is for a '40....mine is a late '39 and I have noticed several items on my car listed as the '40 in the parts book. They must have started using the '40 parts in late '39. On the overdrive relay fuse....does a glass fuse go inside the metal sleeve? I noticed the indented ring around the metal sleeve and a glass fuse could possible fit against this. Is this how it works?
  10. hi all, I am looking for some odds and ends for the '39 commander. 1. the late '39 T88 transmisison drips oil around the shifter arms...it seems seals are not available...anyone have a known solution for this? 2. looking for a head light switch knob, see pic 3. I need a right rear door glass mounting channel #267235, this is the steel channel the glass sits in at the bottom of the glass. I could take a channel from another door if I have to...and attach the slotted part to it. 4. regarding the fuse for the overdrive relay...see pics...I assume the part I am holding is the fuse shell and it fits into the holder much like a light bulb, maybe someone is familiar with this. At any rate, I hope someone can explain this fuse and tell me what I need to make this a working fuse again. Is the part I am holding the fuse or does a fuse fit down inside of it? 5. does anyone have a decent steering wheel? I might be re-casting mine but I want to check to see if any others are out there before I do. thanks everyone.
  11. Vintage Wire

    hi folks, no replies so I am bumping this to the top again.....anyone have pic of the wiring to the glove box clock? see above post... also any reason for the hole in the floor? thanks everyone
  12. glass thickness? '39 commander

    first...an update on the glass...I did go with 1/4" , supplier first thought .210" would be no issue to get...later it became an issue. With the 1/4"window channel and thinner glass setting tape, the glass rolled up and down just fine on the front doors. But I have a question on the rear doors, to remove the glass, I pulled the glass and window channel out from the top...I cannot see the glass being removed from the bottom half of the door at all, the way the door curves at the bottom..the bottom is much narrower than the glass is wide. Am I correct this is the way to remove the glass? and to install the glass..the channel needs to be wrapped around the glass and installed together from the top...once in, lower the glass and then glue the channel to the door frame opening....correct?
  13. Vintage Wire

    '39 commander.....regarding the wiring for the glove box mounted clock...can anyone provide a pic for how the wiring runs thru the glove box to the clock? the wire support on the clock seems to take the wire to and thru the top of the glove box....(the wires enter the clock from the bottom of the rear clock cover. I am wondering how the wire behave when the glove box door is opened and closed...does it coil or fold up or does it push thru the glove box. I will be ordering a replacement glove box but it may not have a hole for the wires. The clock had a broken solder joint and once repaired, it is running just fine.....simply amazing! another question ...not wiring related...what were they thinking? why the large hole under the rear seat? It is covered with a thick rubber sheet. Did the differential hit the floor under a heavy load...so they put a hole there? or was it to simplify the stamping process capabilities?
  14. are those 6.00-16? what brand are they....I was just about to order Coker Classics
  15. Vintage Wire

    thanks studemax, but I already completed the wiring job using bulk wire from RI wire.... and no smoke leaked out!!! ( See post #13 )