• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About fh4ever

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    South Carolina
  • Interests:

Recent Profile Visitors

360 profile views
  1. some difference in the '38 and '39. here is my removed front door panel...black "carpet" goes to the bottom...notice the metal decorative rods....I am going to have to make the hardboard backing too. Yours has fabric around the top of the door...mine has the metal trim covering the window frame...no fabric . here is the rear door... a little better shape Studeboy...I know what you mean ....waiting a while before using parts....even rebuilt things like transmissions and rear ends ....I explain to them it might a year before I can test the tranny or rear end....and they seem to understand...so far no issue with rebuilt components but you always wonder if they will warranty it after a year or two. So SMS is out, still leaning towards Loga, after all, they appear to be stude people.
  2. ha ha ha....so cute . these cars had a lot of room in the back seat for the passenger...I mean pooch!! Now your vent window rubber looks in great shape..is it the original? or was it replaced? I am holding off installing the new vent window glass....I think I would destroy the rubber removing the window assembly. I am under the impression this rubber is not available. Can you post a pic of your existing door panels? I want to see if it has the decorative metal rods and the black "carpet " at the bottom. cowtown...PM sent so it doesn't get buried in previous posts, I will ask again......anyone use Loga enterprises headliners?
  3. I had wondered about a build sheet but did not know where to go to get it. For the headliner, I did not try SE Studebaker as they did not list the '39...but it sounds like they could supply it. I can contact them too. I have been looking at Loga Enterprise. Anyone use them before? They seem to have a lot of interior items. There is a covered board at the back glass.... and being a 4 door, there is a covered board on the B pillar too. I do need to make sure I get enough material for these. SC38DLS...how is your door panels coming? any pics?
  4. sc38dls...did you get your driveshaft replaced? My headliner is almost non existent, just some remnants left under the trim but they are almost dust. I was thinking of leaving the headliner out completely...leaving the rat-rod feel on the inside. But I think I want to put one in just to make it a little cleaner on the inside so the wife wont mind riding in it. Keep in mind, I am not painting anything...If I do the headliner, seat covers, and door panels, then the dash and trim might stand out as being rusty which they almost are. But so what...the goal was to keep costs down and leave everything original as possible... even the rust. Like you, i am not putting that kind of money into someone else doing it. Looks like I should be able to buy a headliner for a few hundred and put it in myself. The headliner gets nailed to a tack strip that is under the window trim...so my thoughts are get the headliner in before I finish installing the glass so it will be much easier to drive the tacks in while the glass is out. Just not real sure how the headliner goes under the metal strip above the door openings. looks like the headliner should have cardboard sewn to it on the sides to slip under this metal strip...but I do not see any cardboard left on mine. I hope someone knows how this is suppose to be ...or when I start contacting suppliers they can tell me.
  5. how can I tell what the original interior color (seats and particularly the headliner) is suppose to be on the 1939 commander? is there a tag on the vehicle somewhere? Best I can tell from the old fabric is it might have been light tan or maybe even gray. I am also curious how is the headliner installed or fastened on the sides above the doors? It appears it goes under a metal strip with teeth along with the door beading? who is the best place for purchasing headliners kits?
  6. but it is way more cool than a 4 door ! I like it ! I like that visor...it adds flavor to it.
  7. so kool !! You have one unique ride there!. Paint and body seems to be in great shape. I would love to have one of those. I really like the 2 door models (business coupe and coupe express) but this 4 door was like the one my grandfather had and the price was good, so I bought it in 1984. I had it in storage until last year. My goal (for now) is just to get it driving and on the road, then I will see if there is more I want to do with it. I can see your running board appears to stay the same width from front to rear. Mine is 10.5" in the front and 7" wide in the rear. (but it is a 4 door)
  8. it is interesting to note the running board rubber fills in the gap at the front fender. for the rear... the left rear has small dent in the 10:00 o'clock position from the bumper...so it looks like it curves in more... let me know if you need more. Post a pic of yours, would love to see it. As far as the body work goes, I would love to take it down to the metal and make it pristine again...then i realize how much i hate all that sanding. I wont miss the sanding at all.
  9. you're right, I believe it was Steele Rubber ...and less than I thought. I took several pics but lets start with these few...if I understand you...the right hand side on mine does bow inward more than the right at the bottom behind the wheel. Let me know if you need more.
  10. glad to inspire someone!! Wife's not too inspired!. I may have to take some time to get that new kitchen I promised her! My vent window rubber is hard as a rock but intact. I recall finding the vent window rubber last winter somewhere but it was about $250 USD. I am not putting a lot $$ in this car, so I will not be touching that rubber if I can avoid it. I should be able to replace the vent window glass without disturbing the rubber. I understand the rear vent window rubber is not available at all and it too is intact but hard. If you want, I can search my notes to see if I can find who had the vent window rubber. I did notice the vent window rubber might hit that chrome piece some but until I start putting the window trim and glass back in, I am not quite sure what will hit the window or chrome. I hope to have the channel in one door tonight or tomorrow and start assembling the door back together to see how it all fits. No problem getting pics... I should be able to get them tonight.
  11. thanks for the reply Spinneyhill, I worked on it this afternoon and got it in....There was a rubber piece wrapped around the long leg on both sides and then fabric wrap around the same leg on top of the rubber piece....which equals to 4 thickness's of material. It was so thick on the edge that it would never go under that lip. So here is what I did... I unwrapped the fabric on the long leg and cut the rubber out from under it, then wrap the fabric back. This way there is only fabric on both sides of the long leg. It then went in the lip with just enough persuasion. This is the L that SI sells for that model and year, whether it is correct or not. I have no idea what the original looked like as mine turned to dust. The new L had those fluffy fibers just like the window channel does. It appears the vent window face will press against the fluff. Now... if I went long leg towards the channel, the edge of the glass would be against the fluff which I dont think is correct. The long leg had to go to the rolled lip the way I figure it. At any rate, I got it and looks good. Yes there was tabs, and I did fold them over top of the liner. next, I already installed this chrome piece on the door glass, but I was not sure how much space to leave at the top...No matter how many pics you take during disassembly, you will always miss something...I took pics of everything in the door except the chrome pieces. One was already off of the car and the other barely holding on. So ...I left just enough space at the top that the door window channel will rest against the chrome when the window is rolled up. That leaves about 1/8" gap between the bottom of the chrome channel and steel glass mounting channel on the bottom of the glass. Would you mind looking at the top of your chrome piece to see how it interacts with the window channel at the top? and how much glass is exposed? Is the glass exposed equal about the thickness of the door glass channel? here are a couple of pics of the chrome piece mounted on the glass...the bottom corner and the upper corner...pay no attention to the glass setting tape, i have not trimmed it yet.
  12. on the '39 commander, I am trying to replace the "L" shaped liner or vent window seal. This is the seal that goes on the leading edge of the door glass chrome trim. It seems many models thru '64 used this type of seal for the vent window where it contacts the door glass...and I hope someone can give me installation pointers as I am having trouble replacing it. The "L" liner (or seal) has one leg shorter than the other and I assume the short leg goes to the channel side and the long leg fits under the rolled edge on the trim. The long leg just seems to be a bit too long and I cannot push it down flush into the corner. If I flip it over and put the long leg on the channel side, then it seems it overhangs the trim and the "bristles" now seem to be on the wrong side. Is this just another example of poor quality that we have to work with? or is there a better way to install it? Here is the trim and the liner...and the catalog page of the liner. here is what happens when I try to install it short leg to the channel side...I know...poor pic...but hopefully you understand...its like it is too long to lay flat. I think the metal piece alone might fit, but wrap it in rubber and it just does not want to go in. and if I flip it over ...long side against the channel.....it's too short to fit under the rolled edge and it will extend beyond the channel trim almost an 1/8". So please...can anyone shed some light on this installation? I am sure someone out there has installed these before.
  13. job well done !!
  14. To replace the rear tranny seal on mine, I had to use a puller to get the yoke off. To get it back on, I heated the yoke in an oven before installing...even then it was tight... but I got it on far enough the nut could pull it on without hammering it. good luck with it.
  15. I learned something today....I just googled it (your style joint) and its called GUIBO.....seems Mercedes and BMW does use them. I only seen them in steering applications and on an early Triumph axle half shafts.