Gary W

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About Gary W

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    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. Bouncy Tires

    You could also check your front coil springs. After 80 years and over 100,000 miles they may have lost their temper. But I would start with the shocks. If they are not dampening the rebound, you'll get the "bounce". Good Luck and welcome to the Forum!
  2. Friday August 18, 2017: Body in Grey "Build-Up" Primer I stopped by the Paint Shop after work today. The body is in "build-up" prime now. Here's a few photos: Passengers side. The door threshold came out so nice and the quarter panel patch is flawless. Completely undetectable. Passenger side door jamb. Everything came out so nice and smooth. All the body lines are crisp and sharp. Driver's side. Again, the patch panel repair looks awesome. Here you can see the "guide coat" that Bob sprays prior to sanding. It helps detect any low spots that may need further work. So, going forward: (As far as I understand the process......) 1. Raise the body off the wood dolly and support it up high so the underside can be cleaned, sanded, self-etch primed and then finished with a rubberized undercoat. 2. Entire interior of the car will be sprayed super jet black. (The interior will not get clear coated) 3. Final sand (wet sand?) of the grey primer surface to achieve a super smooth surface for paint. 4. Color coat exterior 5. Clear coat exterior. Have a good night! Gary
  3. Wednesday August 16, 2017: Update on the body / paint progress The Impala with the rotted out quarter panel is now repaired and out of the shop so my Buick has the place to itself! It was great to stop by this morning and see my car centered in the shop and getting prepped for paint. Today Bob started spraying the yellow "self-etching" primer on the inside surfaces of the body. He was decked out in a ventilator mask and headgear. I was photographing by going outside, taking a deep breath, then holding my breath while snapping a few shots...... I didn't stay long. I left him spraying so I don't know how far he got. My Buick is center-stage! Progress will continue uninterrupted now. Bob will dedicate his shop to my car until it's done. Window riser removed from the passenger's side. Driver's side also stripped down and the bare metal cleaned up for the self etching prime coat. The "self-etching" primer is actually grey at first. It takes a good five minutes of constant stirring to scrape all the "mud" off the bottom of the can and get it to disperse in solution. Then the color changes to yellow. First, the entire inside surface is blown off using the compressor. Then, a tack cloth is used to wipe everything down. Begin spraying the primer coat. Here he's doing the roof rails that support the headliner bows. I didn't stay any longer. The smell is an instant headache! A quick note about my color choice: I went to a local car show tonight. This '37 Caddy went cruising by. Cannot mistake those Fisher body lines. Jet Black, Mahogany woodgrain, Tan Bedford Cord upholstery. Classic. Thursday August 17, 2017: Body Update The yellow "self-etching" primer is now sprayed. The inside is covered and will get a coat of black, but not clear. Interior shot. Notice how the firewall data plate is masked. Today the grey "build-up" primer will be sprayed. Bob told me the build up primer can actually fill in all the letters and numbers and I'll lose all the data plate details. Hopefully she's in prime by tomorrow. Have a great day! Gary
  4. 1920 ute

    It's a NY/Jersey thing! (Cousin Vinny)
  5. 1920 ute

  6. Dimensions of the brake adjustment tool?

    I sent photos via my cell phone.. This is the tool we used on the '37's brakes. I don't know if it is an actual "Buick" Tool, but it fits and works perfectly. John calls it "the spoon"
  7. Saturday August 12, 2017: Steering Column Column is finished. Looks very nice and I think the brown color will really compliment the newly wood grained dash. (This was started on Page 14, Post # 341) (Then on Page 17, Post # 403) Flashback to the "rope trick" sanding off that wood grained brown paint. All cleaned up down to the bare metal. Acetone wipe down and then clean with one of John's pre-paint solutions. John spraying the primer. Primer applied and allowed to fully dry for a week. A very light sanding of the primed surface.. Blow off all the dust with his compressor and then a final wipe down with a clean rag. Using this paint, reducer and catalyst.... John mixes it all together. First only a light "tack-coat" is applied. Then the color coat. This is followed the next week with another color coat to really give the paint "depth". Here we are after the second coat of color. And now all the tape removed. Aside...... In the glove box was an original key that fit the cylinder and still works. (This photo is not the original key) I will paint the insets black on the ignition switch like the other parts. Have a great night! Gary
  8. Shore Guy: I really appreciate you following the posts and the kind words. It is a labor of love and cannot be done without a great support team! I get so lost in the history of these automobiles. Often I think back to the guys on the assembly lines building these beautiful machines, and I have a great respect for them. In a way, I feel like my restoration is preserving that part of our history. Dallas Alice: 1. I did remove a couple of small pieces of the insulation to assess the metal underneath. The metal is perfect so the decision was made to simply leave it in place. (If the metal was rotted or rusted under there, it would have all come out.) 2. Cage nuts are readily available from CARS or Bob's. I needed 6 new ones and they fit right in. Look back at previous posts in the body shop. You can see them being installed. 3. Yes, I ground out the rivets from the hood vents. Sent the vents out to be re-chromed and I will re-install with stainless steel machine screws / lock washers / nuts. ( See Page 17, Post # 403. You can see the hood vents delivered from the chrome shop) 4. Bob's Speedometer will recondition the entire instrument cluster. All five gauges, rechrome the frame..... nice job. I really appreciate everyone following along. Got some news today that the body work will continue uninterrupted starting Monday morning so hopefully the build begins in a few weeks! In the meantime......
  9. Radiator flush on my 1923 Buick

    Hello Mike! I have a question regarding your "fix". I got my '37 with a brass plug installed (like yours) where the spring loaded bypass valve should be. There is no hole drilled through it. It's just a solid frost plug. BUT... The previous owner removed the thermostat completely. So the water circulation runs constantly through the radiator from start-up, the way it would circulate when the car is fully warmed up. I was thinking I would leave the brass frost plug intact, and simply drill a couple of smaller holes in the thermostat flange so the water could circulate through the block during warm-up, and flow through the radiator a bit restricted until the thermostat fully opened. Does my approach sound reasonable? With the frost plug installed in place of the spring loaded valve, and no thermostat, the water circulates constantly from the moment the engine is started. My thought was leave the frost plug intact and drill a few smaller holes in the thermostat flange. I think this would allow water to circulate slowly until the thermostat fully opened and the full flow passed though the radiator.
  10. New Model T Did Something Strange

    When I bought my first Model "T" ('14 Touring) It did the same thing. Pretty scary stuff. The front spring was flattened out so when you steered right, the pitman arm banged into the radius rod. So, the previous owner "fixed" it by simply bending the pitman arm so it would clear the radius rod. This "fix" effectively "shortens" the pitman arm, which allows the drag link to rotate too far and then come around up to the top where your steering is now reversed. When I restored the car, I first had the front spring re-arched to the proper height. Then I ordered a new pitman arm from Snyder's which was an exact duplicate of the original and now the problem is solved. ( I also changed the original 3:1 steering planetary gears to the newer 5:1 system and I feel like I have much better control of the steering now) Please fix it. It can be dangerous in the wrong situation. Good Luck! Gary Wheeler NJ The previous owner
  11. Hi Guys! Thought you'd like to see a quick 30 second time lapse video of my, my son and a couple of young guys build my 1914 Model "T" chassis. We filmed for over 8 hours and the time lapse condensed it down. Kinda cool! Have a great day Gary
  12. Hi Tom; I still restore my leaf springs the same way I was taught over 25 years ago: I disassemble every leaf and run a wire wheel over the entire surface of both sides. By doing this, it will highlight any "slag" that is pressed or rolled into the steel. Then, I take my time with a chisel and make sure all of this slag is removed, because I was told that when the spring flexes, the slag will certainly come loose and start to rust and squeak. Once that is all done, I wash everything down with acetone and begin the painting. For the Buick, I had the leaves blasted clean after the wire wheel treatment. This created a clean, but "roughened" surface for the POR-15 to "bite". I applied the POR-15 on both sides of the springs, followed by two coats of the Slip Paint. (SEE POST #143 on Page 6 for the process) I started using "Slip-Paint" a few years back on my Model "T", and I really like how it performs and I don't have grease and oil squeezing out from the leaves. (And the road dirt doesn't have anything to stick to so they stay nice and clean.) I actually DID entertain the idea of buying a set of those leaf spring liners for the Buick, as the idea seemed pretty good. But the ones I saw looked like the old "Hot Wheels" tracks I played with when I was a kid, and I didn't like the look of the lip showing in between each leaf. So I opted to stay to my tried and true methods.... I'm curious to find out how they work! It seems like a very good idea. Sorry for such a long-winded answer, but my leaf springs from Eaton DID NOT come with the leaf spring liners installed. But I like to use the Slip Paint regardless. Gary