Gary W

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Gary W last won the day on September 17

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About Gary W

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    NJ
  • Interests:
    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. Sunday October 22, 2017: Sound Deadening, Insulation This afternoon I applied the Dynamat Extreme insulating panels to the floor inside the cabin. Then I used a Dynamat to insulate the floor of the trunk. Here's how I did it: Clean everything up. You'll want to remove the battery cover, accelerator pedal, transmission cover and just remove the lower two screws of the pedal plates. I bought this Dynamat Extreme "9-pack" which is 36 sq feet total. I found the sheets very easy to maneuver and cut. I began by laying things out with the backing paper still attached to try to figure the easiest way to lay things out with minimum cuts. First piece being installed. I used the roller they recommend. I purchased it when I did the firewall. Roll everything down tight and into all the grooves. It is very easy to mold into all the recesses. Once the back sheets were in, I moved up front. If you mark out all your openings, screw holes and other things with a gold sharpie marker it makes it easier to cut outside the car. Here's my marks around the pedal pads. I just removed the lower two screws and slid it under. CAUTION! IF THIS DOUBLES OVER ON ITSELF, IT'S RUINED! I lost one piece because I didn't know that once it folds over on itself there is this instant bond that is unbreakable! So I learned to leave the paper on, seat the leading edge then remove as you roll the mat down to the floor. The stuff is in, and I just have to re-install the accelerator pedal and the transmission cover. Covers back installed, which also helps keep the edges down nice and tight. Another view So, that is what 8 1/2 sheets will cover. I only did the floor, and that's all you get out of the kit. For the trunk, I opted to use one single "Dynapad". It's 1/2" thick and very heavy. Here, I lined up the rear edge to the trunk edge and folded it over to get the support line. Using chalk, I marked the folded edge. Remove it from the car and you'll get a good clean cut. Being this pad is so heavy, I felt it really didn't need to be so strongly adhered. I used this 3M product only on the edge. A light spray, about 2" in from the back edge just to tack it in position and prevent sliding. It's a good fit, and a nice cushioned base and a heavy sound deadener. Next, I measured my trunk liner from LeBaron Bonney. Again, keeping it nice and straight and even at the edge, I measured the angled wood support Give it a good crease and mark it with your chalk. Then double check it. Don't cut all the way through so you don't mess up your leather binding. Put some weight on it so it sets nice and flat. So, next is the side panels and installing the wood floor. Have a great night! Gary
  2. Just to clarify: The windows I removed from the car were the original 80-year old Buick windows. The replacements are 100% exact duplicates of the originals. My question is how to shape the chrome-edged window channel when it comes around the back curve of the window opening. The problem is this: The OUTSIDE shape of the window opening (The window opening, (reveal) in the body) is a beautiful, sweeping curve when viewed from the outside. The shape of the GLASS is different. It has an angle on the rear, upper corner. The INSIDE the body is formed to accept the window glass, having that upper rear angle built into the body. So: If I form the channel to the inside, the channel will fit the window perfectly, but the channel will be lost from view when looked at from outside the car. It will be "tucked" up into the channel. If I form the channel to the outside, I think the window will push it deep into the channel. The Original glass as removed from the car. You can see the angle I'm talking about on both panes. It's that rear, upper angle where the glass goes from curve on top to straight down the back surface. Heres the replacement glass. It has the exact angle and the same vertical drop which goes straight down into the door channel. Here's the INSIDE of the window opening. Notice the angle is built right into the Fisher Body to accept the angle of the rear window. But also notice that the "crease" or the "angle" is set 1/2" deeper than the outer sweep of the window opening. So if I attach the channel flush to the inner channel, the chrome edges will be behind the reveal at this spot. So when the window is up, I think it'll push the chrome channel into the body "crease" right at that point. I've been thinking about it today, and I'm going to try to follow the outer sweep of the window reveal. I may have to use a shim in the inside "crease" to support the channel. If the window moves it, I might just cut a small slit in the channel to allow the window to pass through without moving the chrome channel deeper into the window. Appreciate all the input here! Gary
  3. Saturday October 21, 2017: Rear Roll-Up Window....Questions before installing.... First, guys, thanks for all the photos and electrical advice. I really like the idea of Don's relay to be sure all your auxiliary equipment is off when the ignition switch is off. Great idea. The interior photos are a big help. I wish my '37 had that mounting strip.... the finish is really nice looking. But I'll be using screws to affix the panel. SO NOW.... advice please regarding the rear roll-up window. I don't know if this is a "MODEL 48" issue only, but if someone can give me a little guidance here I'd be grateful! Rear "Roll - Up" Windows: First, my original, broken windows were carefully measured and marked before removing the lower metal bar to be sure it went on the new glass in the same exact position. The metal was wire wheeled and sanded smooth and a self-etch prime applied. A coat of "trim black" finished the metal channel and now I want to install it in the car before installing the rear upholstery panels. So, I'm starting with these felt-lined channels that need to be bent to fit the window and the window opening in the body. TWO DIFFERENT SHAPES I'M WORKING WITH HERE: 1. The actual shape of the window 2. The shape of the window opening in the body. This upper rear corner angle is the spot where the WINDOW shape and the WINDOW OPENING SHAPE of the BODY differ! I know it's hard to see depth in photographs, but that "crease" is where that upper window angle rests when the window is fully up. That "crease" is clearly set in the Fisher Body about 1/2" deeper than the outer window reveals to accommodate the window shape. But if I form the channel precisely into this "crease", the chrome edge will disappear from view. Using an old piece of felt lined channel to play around with before cutting my actual parts, I bent the channel around the window contour to see how close a fit it will be. So...The front pillar, the upper front corner radius and the upper section all follow the BODY WINDOW OPENING very closely and the chrome reveal is pretty consistent throughout the run. Maybe a little shimming here and there will get it perfect, but overall not a bad fit. Now.... back here is the issue I'm having. If I follow the WINDOW GLASS CONTOUR, the chrome edge gets buried in that notch inside and disappears from view. If I follow the BODY CONTOUR, I don't think the window will close properly, or most likely will just push that part up under the body opening anyway. So... What is proper? Does anyone have a photo of a Model 48 rear window so I can compare the chrome reveal. I'd prefer the reveal to be the same around the entire window opening, but I think the actual shape of the glass will prevent that. Any thoughts, greatly appreciated! Thanks Gary
  4. Don, if I understand you correctly, I should follow the wiring diagram and wire the radio to the ammeter to avoid overloading the ignition switch?
  5. Friday October 20,2017: Headliner Installation A series of posts showing how I installed the headliner:
  6. Friday October 20,2017: Headliner installation A couple of posts to show how I got the headliner installed:
  7. OK...So the wire labelled "BATT" is basically the "hot" wire, and the one labelled "GAUGE" would be the side to attach the clock, radio... (fuel gauge?) Actually, you probably want the clock hooked up to the battery side as well?
  8. Thanks guys! Exactly what I needed! Here is the new panel butting up against the windlace, but I was a bit hesitant to start making holes for screws until I knew for sure. Here's the ignition wiring. Both the wires with the blue tape attach to the switch. Both are yellow with red cross-tracers, ;though one is longer. I did not dismantle the switch. It is as it was and it worked so I think the internal guts are fine. Just don't want to mess up the wiring.
  9. I ordered a complete kit from LeBaron Bonney. The visors are part of the kit. I sent my old ones up there and they returned them finished. Can someone tell me how the front kick panels attach. They are the leather covered pieces next to your feet up front. Do the heads of the screws show? *** Also... Wiring the ignition switch.. I have two wires that go to the switch. One wire is supposed to the terminal "gauge", the other to the terminal "battery" My terminals are not marked in any way. How is it wired? what wire goes where. Thanks.
  10. Can you loosen up all the running board mounting bolts and move it so the gap is consistent? My '37 has oval shaped holes so you can adjust the running board's position. These four bolts slide fore and aft to help position the running board Loosen up these to allow the support to slide forward or back. Then, the major support irons to the frame have slotted holes under the running board so it can be adjusted toward or away from the car. With all those bolts loose, you should be able to get the gap pretty consistent from from to back. Good Luck!
  11. Wednesday October 18, 2017: Finish trimming headliner around rear windows and finalizing the installation. (Fourth and final installment!) Today I finished the headliner installation. I finished the trimming around the rear window, then installed the package tray, the rear garnish molding, the dome light and the sun visor(s). Slow and steady all the way, but I'm satisfied with the results: Today's "toolbox" The pneumatic staple gun makes the job go so much nicer than the tacks I was playing with the last few days! You can see a few "releasing" cuts into the corners so I could start to tuck the headliner into the window gap. There is also a gross cut of bulk material inside the window frame. Here you can see some of the headliner material puckering around bow #7. What I did was so pull the tack, pull the headliner away from the body just enough to snip a couple "releasing cuts" in the listing where the wire exits. Then pull the headliner down over the listing wire to smooth out the puckers. Now nice and smooth, staple it in to position. The left side also had some sloppiness back there. So I did the exact same thing over on that side. Remove the tacks, cut a small release little by little, checking all the time. Now nice and tight, staple it down and both sides are done. Ready to start trimming out the rear window. I did not want to start cutting anything back there until the side panels were secure. From the impression in the material (from tucking it into the window gap) I measured an inch. This is my next cut to remove a little more bulk. Again, bulk removed to the chalk line, and I started snipping release cuts to help form the radius. Same routine on the other side, slowly and carefully cutting release incisions so the material will set better. Back to the other side to start tucking the fabric away. Go slow, go careful and it will all fit in nice and snug. Again, tuck the material into the window gap keeping everything nice and tight every inch of the way. Finish at the lower edge and the material is looking good. A little shot of headliner adhesive will help hold the bottom piece nice and tight. Trying in the package tray and the small fabric covering before installing the garnish. Install your center post divider and then the garnish molding frame and there you go! Another view. So the headliner is nice and tight and it's time to cut it. I installed four screws before installing the headliner so I could locate center for the dome light. Carefully make your incision like a pizza. Find and remove the mounting screws. Wire it and install the base. Snap on the cover. Next I installed the sun visor(s). Same fashion as the dome light. The driver's side looking finished. Everything going swimmingly and then I installed the passenger's visor..... And quickly learned that the mountings are Left and Right. I was sold the wrong item. I now have two driver's side visor mounts. So....If anyone has a nice Buick passenger side sun visor mount...... Have a great night! Gary
  12. Tuesday Evening, October 17, 2017: Finish trimming headliner around front doors and windshield (Part 3) Tonight after work I worked on the headliner at the front of the car, namely around the doors and the windshield. First I got the headliner secured at the bows and in between the bows along the tack line, then carefully cut the excess. I think if there is any excess material it will show under the next welting that goes on. Then I finished trimming out the windshield. First I used a thin plastic tool to jam the headliner into the groove between the rubber window seals and the metal that surrounds them. If I got any puckers, I carefully started to make little cuts to ease the fabric. Making little slits helped the fabric slide into the groove easier. Same on the other side. This groove made an impression on the headliner, so what I did was.... Once the "line" was imprinted along the entire front, I pulled the entire front of the headliner back down. I added about 1/2" - 3/4" to that line and made my cut at that point. I sprayed a little headliner adhesive only to the metal that is above the rubber gaskets. Then starting at the center, I worked my way out to the drivers side, then over to the passenger's side with the thin tool and pushed the headliner back into that groove. Being it was only about 1/2" more material, it all just tucked away in the groove. So here are a few photos of it finished. I think with the adhesive in there it will stay put for a while. Plus the garnish molding has to go over it also. It came out nice and smooth. I kept checking the height of the staples and tacks holding the headliner on to the sides to be sure the next lace will cover everything. But the tacking strip is kind of narrow up there, so you really don't have much choice where to drive your tacks. Now that the front is in tight, I want to trim out the rear window tomorrow and install the package tray parts. Then I can install the sun visors and the dome lamp. See ya tomorrow! Gary
  13. Monday October 16, 2017: Continuation of the Headliner Installation (Part 2) To continue the Headliner installation: Here's how I left things. I went into my upholstery kit and realized before I cut anything the door wind lace had to be installed first. So I pulled the front four tacks out and loosened the headliner to get access to the tack strip under there. After 45 minutes of tinkering, twisting and trying to align things, I finally figured out how the wind lace fits into the door jamb supports. First, I installed those windlace supports into the door jamb, then attached the lacing down the door opening. I installed it with Permatex headliner adhesive spray for now. It holds it nice and straight. When the kick panels go in the front quarters it will be screwed place. Working slowly and inch by inch I tacked the wind lace into the tack strip above the door. I really tried to be sure it fell right at the door opening with no sags or twists. Then down the back side of the door opening. There is a piece of leather stitched onto the lace right by the door striker. Wind lace is in, and I started trimming the excess headliner material. Starting to look nice now that it's getting cleaned up. This piece is going to be wrapped around the metal keeper once completed. I can't install the metal keeper yet until the upper lacing is installed above the wind lace. Then the garnish molding can go back in place, which actually hides most of this stuff. I'm going slow with this because one wrong snip and the job is ruined. Hopefully I'll finish it up tomorrow. Have a good night Gary
  14. Matt Great job on the flywheel ring gear. It will make a huge difference. I'm glad to see you didn't have to replace the gear. Mine was in such horrible shape that replacement was the only option. When that vacuum start switch goes bad, every time the accelerator pedal is depressed the starter bendix bangs away. Keep up the GREAT work! Your project is really coming along nicely Gary
  15. Saturday October 14, 2017: Headliner (I'll call this "Headliner Part One") Started to install the headliner today. I'm calling this part one because I needed to get it measured, centered, install listing wires, re-measure, mark center in the car, ........ I didn't want to make any final cuts in the fabric yet until I sleep on it and start fresh tomorrow. But here it is so far... Here's the headliner laid out on the kitchen table. Seven bows, front on the left side of this photo First thing I did was fold it in half exactly on the lines the LeBaron marked as center. There is a center at the front, the rear and around bow #3 in the middle. Once folded, I marked center on every listing so when I get it in the car I have a reference point to keep the fabric centered and hopefully won't pull to one side or another. In the car, I marked every roof bow Center. I then marked the roof in the back with centering marks as well. I removed the dome light but put the four screws in place so I can easily find them after the liner is installed. I also put screws in the front visors mounts and the rear shade button that holds the shade up. This may be unconventional, but BEFORE I put the listing wires in their sleeves, I actually lightly hung the headliner along the center lines I marked so I could measure each listing and mark where I had to cut to allow the listing wire to protrude. I went listing by listing, and marked them 1 through 7, Driver and Passenger. Now back on the table, I made the cut in the listings according to my marks. This is where the listing wire needs to exit. A few days ago I pulled all the original listing wires out of the old headliner and marked them 1-7 on the driver's side so I know how they go back. After marking them, I wire wheeled each one, primed them and gave them a coat of paint. I wrapped the end in electrical tape to hopefully ease them through the listing. I didn't want to catch the fabric anywhere. Slowly push each one through, keeping the material from bunching up as you go. All seven listing wires in place and the headliner is actually taking shape already. I folded it accordion style with #7 on the bottom, as that is the one to set in position first, then pull the whole mess towards you. Line up Center, pinch all around the wire so the spike doesn't poke through your headliner. While keeping it centered, spike it over the bows the whole time pulling it taught between the spikes. Here is #5 going in. Keep it centered and tight as you go. I'm pinching the listing wire to be sure the spike comes through only under the wire and no where else. Keep marching forward! So, I got all seven listing wires in place, and put one single tack on the edges to allow it to stretch tonight before I make final cuts tomorrow. Looking to the back. I didn't cut the rear window out yet.... Just want everything to settle and stretch a little. I need to sleep on it before making the final cuts. The front also needs to be trimmed out and pulled tight around the window without creating any ripples...... I think when the garnish goes in, it'll also give it a little "tug". So there is the first part of the headliner. Tomorrow I hope to trim it and tack it all neatly to the sides. Have a great night! Gary