Gary W

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About Gary W

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  1. Friday June 23, 2017: Update on the Body Work / Paint Progress After work today I stopped by the paint shop to see how things are progressing there. At this point, the front of the car and the roof are done with the URO-FILL surfacer, are sanded smooth and the first "self-etching" prime coat is applied. The primer is called Vari-Prime and it has a yellow color. Bob (the painter) also "hammer-and-dollied" (is that the correct term?) some minor bruises out and he welded in a patch where the right rear fender iron exits the body. Here's a few photos so you can follow the progress. Enjoy! ( ** Every photo in this series was taken with my iPhone 6. I stopped by the paint shop either before or after work, and didn't have my Nikon with me. Apologize for any lack of clarity. **) In a previous post, Bob was filing in the leaded joints in the front of the car and repairing some body dings and removing some old body putty. He is now at the rear, working on the leaded joints and the trunk opening. This material is called URO-FILL Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer (and Activator) made by Evercoat. Once dry, it is sanded from coarse (36 grit?), to an 80 grit. I can't remember if he goes any finer at this point. Please note the inside of the trunk lip. He worked all that rough stuff out of there. Upper Right trunk lip after sandblasting. There are pits, lead, body filler..... pretty rough. Even though the rubber seal fits in that cavity entirely, Bob is working to make it look nice under there. Upper Left trunk lip after sandblasting. Again, pretty rough in there. After cleaning it up, this is the beginning of the repair using the URO-FILL surfacer. The first sanding is being done, as you can see the sanding dust accumulating. Here you can see the improvement as each sanding gets it smoother and smoother. This has been a great learning experience for me. Right Rear panel where the bumper iron exits the body. There is a lot of rot there. But for some reason, only there. The left side is fine. It appears like brown paper over the body opening, but you are seeing my wood dolly through it. Bob made a template first. He then used a pneumatic "tin snips" type tool to cut the metal to the desired shape. (Photo was taken after patch was in, but you get the idea!) Then this got cut out and removed from the body. The new patch was welded into position. The body all around the opening was counter sunk to accept the patch. Initial grind to remove the rough welds...... Then a finer grind wheel to smooth out the welded joint and begin to meld the surfaces smooth. By countersinking the patch into the body, Bob was explaining how the body actually stiffens the patch and gives it a lot of support. This is the self-etching primer and various components that work with it. (And the yellow sheet is my bill for same!) Front sprayed in primer to protect the bare metal while he works on the back. Driver's side in prime. I told my wife that I changed my mind on the color. Going with Canary Yellow. She didn't buy it! Have a great night out there! Gary
  2. How do you read those codes? I literally just mounted my new ones. Code ends in: 3316
  3. Wednesday June 21, 2017: Wiper Tower ("Transmission") Reassembly: After practicing painting in the detail lines of the door handles and fender lamp trim, today I decided to reassemble the wiper towers. I removed the towers as a unit, with all the mechanism attached. I photographed the parts so I could remember how they all fit back together. When I sent them out for chrome, they were returned for disassembly. So, not knowing how to disassemble these units, John and I tried to pry off the chains. Well, this got the large wheel out, but the smaller wheel was still inside the tower. I did get the proper technique, and did get them disassembled, and chromed. Today I did the reassembly: Flashback: When I removed the tower assemblies, I immediately marked them and photographed them so I knew exactly how they go back together. Here is one of the towers I removed from the car. This one didn't work as the pin that goes through the tower into the internal chain-driven wheel was rusted in place. I learned the proper way to remove the pin. Use the nut and a stack of washers as a "puller". The pin will withdraw straight out from the internal chain-driven wheel. **** SEE POST # 233 ON PAGE 10 FOR THE DISASSEMBLY TECHNIQUE **** This is the result of pulling out the rusted side. The "ears" snapped off the pot metal and the chain fell free. At this point, I had pulled the chains off the large diameter wheel, then this one broke, so I had some reassembly to do. After throughly cleaning the area with acetone, I mixed up some J B WELD and smoothed it into the area. While it was still "putty", I placed the links of the chain. IT IS IMPORTANT that you orient the wheel properly! This side that you see in this photo MUST face the back of the tower. (The side that sits on your cowl) It has a thicker "boss" than the other side that the pin presses into. The threaded pin goes through the front, and then passes into this wheel. That pin will not go through if this wheel is assembled backward. So I had to be doubly sure before I used the JB Weld that I had it oriented properly. If you disassemble, and everything comes out together, then this is no longer an issue, but on reassembly be sure the heavy boss faces back. I smoothed out all the JB Weld the next day, after it was fully cured. So here it is all cleaned up and ready to be reinstalled. Back to the painting, filling in the grooves with black paint, then, immediately after.......... Wipe it down leaving the black paint in the grooves. So the chains are back together, the smaller chain-driven upper wheels are properly oriented. This is the way they go back together. This photo just to show the towers with the black paint in the detail grooves. Begin the reassembly by placing a few drops of oil into the recess in the back of the tower where the pin will ultimately fit into. Slowly begin dropping in the chain-driven wheel, a little wiggle here and there so it does't bind. You can see the edge of the wheel coming into view. At this point, I used the fine tip of the oil to line it up the rest of the way. Start with a little digital pressure to engage the wheel. Notice the pin has a knurled section that fits in the wheel. The rest protrudes from the wheel and sits in the internal recess in the back wall of the tower. I was cautioned not to push the pin in too far, as it will bind the unit and it won't move easily. So I partially drilled a hole in a piece of 1/2" MDF to act as a "stop" and protect the threads of the pin. While I made sure the tower was sitting nice and square, my son slowly tightened the vice. Here I am showing my photographer what to focus on. I did not do one big push. We went little by little, checking the operation of the wheel to be sure it wasn't getting bound up in there. Here we are on the last push. With the pin pressed back into position, I placed the newly-chromed nuts and one more project off the list. Those pins may have to go in a little more, but I want to test fit the wiper arms and see if it's necessary. Wiper towers finished and ready for installation!!!
  4. Sunday, June 18, 2017: Happy Father's Day! Painting the "recesses" in the chrome parts Here's how I did it........ Today I set up shop in the kitchen. Way too humid outside to do anything! I wanted to rebuild the windshield wiper "transmissions", but I have to paint the grooves in the chromed towers first. But, being those wipers are so prominent on the cowl of the car, I wanted to practice on a couple parts first before I attempted the wiper towers. So today I painted a few parts. Having never done this before, here goes! I chose the fender lamp chrome molding first. It had nice deep grooves so I figured it would be easier. I dipped the artist's brush in Rustoleum Flat Black. and made sure to "work" the paint into the depth of the grooves. It's really hard to photograph chrome parts. But there is black paint down the entire side. There IS NOT ANY paint on the front "ring" surface. Just a reflection. I wrapped my finger tightly in a thin cotton cloth. Then, by sliding my finger down the length of the part, while "rolling" my finger backward, the paint cleaned right off the "proud" surface, leaving the black in the detail. Here is the fender lamp center molding after wiping off the paint. I really like the result! So I tried the trunk handle next. Grooves are not as deep, but the surface is nice and flat so I figured it would wipe off easily. Again, worked the paint into the grooves. Looking sloppy, and believe me, I was hesitant to paint on my freshly chromed parts! As soon as the paint was worked into the grooves, I immediately wiped it off, again kind of "rolling" my finger backward while sliding down the part. And here we are! Not too bad for my first attempt! Then I did all eight door handles. They were much easier as the grooves are very deep and the part is thin enough to clean with one quick sweep! Another view. And then I had to stop to fire up the grill. Darn kids are always hungry! Happy Father's Day out there! Gary
  5. I got it and read it through. I'll take it to the garage and double check my settings. Thank you! I really appreciate all your help.
  6. Hi Matt. I have a MARVEL BD
  7. Friday, June 16, 2017: Rebuild the Automatic Choke Unit For those following along, I'm having a bit of trouble with this automatic choke unit. I installed a "helper" spring on one unit to try to remedy the problem of the choke only partially opening. While that unit was installed on the engine, I completely disassembled another unit I acquired and gave a good soaking in lacquer thinner. I let it soak for a few days and got it back together and installed. So this series is for those of you inclined to open up your automatic choke unit. At least you can see what they're made of: Here's the automatic choke unit prior to disassembly. Just another view. My hope was a good cleaning up would restore the unit to proper function. Part of the disassembly showing how I was able to push the pin out using needle nose pliers. With the pin out and the plate that keeps the piston from dropping too far removed, the guts look like this. And here is the choke unit fully disassembled and ready for a good soaking and cleaning. Fill 'er up..... and let everything soak for a few days. (Install tires while this is soaking!) The parts cleaned up real nice, and a lot of surface gook came off. I wiped everything off and laid out all the parts according to assembly sequence. Step 1: Using an 800 grit automotive paper, I simply polished the walls of the internal cylinders so everything was nice and smooth. Step 2: Install the top plate with the long "bellows" looking part. I used a silicone sealant to take the place of the gasket that was unusable, being absolutely sure none bled through into the cylinders. Step 3a: Turn the unit upside down and install the bi-metallic coil and the vacuum piston shaft. Step 3b: Tip the shaft to first get the axle through the side of the casting Step 3c: Then center the part and push the piston into the vacuum cylinder. Step 4a: Install the plate with the extended ear towards the piston so the piston cannot fall through. Step 4b: Tighten the two screws that hold the plate in position. Step 5a: Install the brass fitting to the casting that will center the shaft. Step 5b: Tighten it down Step 6a: Install the pin that connects the bi-metallic coil to the "bellows" connecting arm. Step 6b: Again, I used a needle nose plier to push the pin through. Step 6c: Here's a shot of the pin fully seated and the internal guts all back in position. Step 7: Again, I used a very light coating of a high temp silicone gasket maker to seal the bottom plate. Nice and easy here as it seals very nice without a lot of mess if it is not over applied. Here's the unit ready to have the arm re-installed on to the protruding shaft. With the arm installed, the gasket installed and the automatic choke installed on to the engine and hooked into the Marvel. Notice, I did not paint it yet. I want to check the function first. So, after installing the cleaned unit, I started the engine. The first thing I noticed was that the vacuum definitely pulls the choke open to about the 60% area. Already it's pulling open better. I let the engine idle for 5-6 minutes, but I was in the garage and the place was filling up with exhaust fumes so I couldn't let it run much longer. I don't know how hot the engine is supposed to get before that bi-metallic coil acts on the choke to fully open it. Also, even though the engine was idling, and the choke did open about 60% or so, the engine DEFINITELY ran better when I manually opened the choke to full open. It smoothed out. When I let it drop back to the 60% mark where it was held by the vacuum, it started to feel like it was "bogging down". Push the choke full open, smoothed right out. So I have to figure out how to make that thing open the choke fully about 1 minute into running. The engine likes it much better full open. As I stated before, the previous owner simply wired the choke full open all the time, completely bypassing the automatic choke entirely. I ran it in December and January and it started right up and ran fine that way. If tomorrow is a nice day, I'd like to roll the chassis outside and let it run for a good 10-15 minutes, let the engine fully warm up and check the operation of the automatic choke unit. If it still doesn't open fully, I may have to consider another option here. Have a good night guys!
  8. Thursday, June 15, 2017: Another visit from the "Chrome Fairy"! I got another shipment from Paul's Chrome Plating today. Just thought I'd share some of the results: A few more parts arrived today! I am very impressed with the quality of the work. Some Before and After photos: Dome lamp switch plate Before Dome lamp switch plate today. Wiper Towers after disassembly. Here we are now. Dome lamp lens bezel. Beautiful. This assortment of of parts went out. The finished product is beautiful. I have new plastic knobs. I'm going to bring my steering wheel to the paint shop and have the color matched so I can paint the new door knobs. Then press them into position. I also have to restore that dome lens.
  9. Gary..Yes! NJ born and raised. Mike..Yes! Those are reproductions from Bob's. I have the originals, I put the best one on the spare, but the others are so beat up. Dings, scratches...would have cost a fortune to fix and re chrome so I went this route for now, maybe if I decide later to splurge I'll have the originals done. For now, this was an acceptable substitute. Thanks guys for following along!
  10. Wednesday, June 14, 2017: Tire Day I listened to Matt, J. Velde, Bob and Dave. I had the tires mounted at my local Sunoco Station. It's a great shop, staffed with the nicest guys and they do everything there. This morning I stopped by with only the spare to find out if they can mount the tire / tube combo. "No Problem" So I left the one tire with them, came back 15 minutes later and it was already mounted and balanced. So I went home and got the other four rims, tires, tubes and rim flaps loaded in the truck and headed over. I had to drill a new valve stem hole in every rim flap, as the Buick stem is offset, and the rim flap is only drilled dead center. So this series of photos describes the whole day of tires! I started by preparing each rim flap by drilling another valve stem hole off center to accept the offset angle of the valve stem. I used an 11/16" bit and it worked great. At Glendola Sunoco where Russ took care of me. Nice bunch of guys working there, always treat me great. Russ let me photograph the process. Rim is mounted on the base, the back bead getting lined up He put a rubber attachment on the end of the rod so the machine wouldn't damage my new rims. Here's the back bead dropping in place. Then Russ carefully pushed the tube in place And smoothed it out all around the inside of the tire casing. The outer bead was seated next, with a careful eye on the tube the entire time. Slowly the tire is filled with air to be sure the beads seat properly Then mounted on the balancer First spin to determine where the weights belong. Russ did not want to ruin the look of the tire by putting weights on the outside rim, but Coker Tire told me the tires should have them so... On they went! Once the tire weights were tapped in place on both the outer and inner rims, The tires go for a second "confirmation" spin to double check that the balance is within spec. Now at home, I scrubbed off that blue protective ink. What a difference! I toweled them all dry and let them set in the sun to finish drying. While they were sitting there..... I decided to paint the weights gloss black to match the rims! Now the weights blend in a lot better and aren't so bad to look at. The next step was to wire wheel all the lug bolts, acetone clean and spray them with a silver colored paint called "chrome" Next, I installed all the beauty rings. (or trim rings) Hoist 'em up onto the locator pin and center them onto the hub I like to start each lug bolt, then by slowly turning the wheel and tightening each one sequentially, I find the wheel seats nice and flush Front tire installed. The hubcaps are still getting re-chromed but these are beautiful tires. And now she's back on all fours again! They are the whitest white-walls I've ever seen! A good day!
  11. I've documented every step, mostly so I know how to reassemble each part when the time comes. But I can forward what I have if you need it. Click the restoration thread at the bottom: Good Luck! Gary W NJ
  12. I completely disassembled my fender lamps so I can have the trim piece re-chromed for the restoration. But here are a few photos that may help you: Remove the top screw. With your thumb, press down on back while "sliding" your thumb forward. That upper cover will come off. With the top removed, you can see the retaining clip in the back and the angle of the locking mechanism. Here's the spring that keeps the lens tight. Another view. I took those small screws out to have the piece re-chromed. You do not have to remove them for lens replacement. Push the ring forward to compress the spring, and lift the whole assembly out. It takes the pressure off the lens. . Then re-install! Hope it helps!
  13. Sunday June 11, 2017: Steering Box / Steering Column: I sent the steering box out to LARES to rebuild as it has a noticeable "clunk" and a heavy spot that felt like the gear box was locking up. I thought I'd share a couple of photos of the restored steering gear box: Here's my Steering Box ready to be shipped out. I didn't ship the pitman arm. But I did ship the entire steering column, ignition switch attached. I My Steering column was woodgrained. I am going to paint in gloss black. I used the same rope trick that I used on the crankshaft. Then a finer grit to smooth it out. You see I left the ignition switch on because John said "Don't mess with it!" As the wood grained paint, base color and primer came off, the metal underneath is in great shape. Here's the business end! The tag from LARES states the unit is adjusted to factory specs. So don't touch it. I'm going to paint the gear box gloss black also. So, I have a little more work to do to get it nice and smooth and ready for paint. Before and After
  14. OK......I'm killing myself trying to mount these tires / tubes / rim flaps!!!! Also, the rim flaps have a hole drilled dead center. The air stem is off to one side! So first I drilled a 1/2" hole offset so the rim flap would sit nicely against the tube. I am trying it like this: Push tube into tire casing Seat rim flap evenly all-around so it lays nice and flat to the tube A little air to hold the shape (At this point the air stem disappears under the bead) Try, in vain, to get the tire seated over the rim. What's the secret?? I can't see if the air stem is lined up with the rim opening, I can't even get one side to budge! Little help here please. Someone out there has the "trick" to make these things go on. Thanks Guys!
  15. Janousek: You are correct...There is a "self-etching" primer step in the lineup that I forgot. Painters talk too fast for me!