Gary W

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About Gary W

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  1. Yes, and thank you for the reminder. Back in post #68 when I got the head on, I sacrificed an old screwdriver and spun the oil pump counter-clockwise. The oil came right up to the rockers. But that was a month ago. Perhaps I'll give it another spin just before going live. I feel like I'm very close to getting the engine running. I ordered an oil pressure gauge to plug the hole and measure the pressure on start up. Today I had a great conversation with Jon, "The Carb King". He is quite knowledgeable and extremely helpful. The plan going forward is to forget the Marvel rebuild, and replace it with a Carter model 608-S. I'll have to do a little work to retrofit the accelerator linkage but I think I'll be OK. Jon is not a fan of the Marvel, and a rebuild is more costly than a NOS Carter so I'm going to make the change.
  2. Here's how I pulled the motor. I removed the front clip for painting, but I cannot imagine lifting that block over the front sheet metal. I removed most everything, but left the head on so the long bolts had support throughout their length. Rocker arm off, head on. If you get a minute, check out my ongoing thread: "1937 Model 48 Restoration has begun (photo)...." Engine removal on page one. Good Luck! Engine coming out Suspended and then rolled the chassis under Slowly drop her in position Gary NJ
  3. Today I got the new, stainless steel exhaust system installed. It took a lot longer than I expected. It wasn't so easy getting every clamp and pipe to line up, but it finally all came together. Then, to the front of the engine to install the water pump, thermostat housing, water outlet and the fan belt and fan. I'm really looking forward to starting the engine soon. The manifold / exhaust pipe clamp fit perfectly. The challenge was lining everything else up properly. I had to use my original Buick clamps, simply because they fit correctly. It's nice seeing the original style round barrel muffler. The previous owner had a generic Midas oval muffler. I like the original design under there. My only problem was that the new muffler is not labelled front / rear so I took a 50/50 chance and installed it. Hopefully it won't matter much. Water pump going back into position. I use Permatex Ultra Black for my sealant. A nice thin coat with new gaskets will take up the roughness of the castings and creates a nice water tight seal. Install the Thermostat body / bypass valve unit. I installed a 165 degree thermostat. Slip on the fan belt. Install the water outlet casting, again with black permatex and a new gasket. And finally, the fan is installed. I also installed a 1/8" pipe thread plug in the oil pressure hole so I can start it without oil blowing all over the garage. JANUARY 18, 2017 APRIL 27, 2017. I'm so happy with the progress so far! Questions: 1. Before starting the engine, Do I have to hook up the voltage regulator? Will the generator get ruined if it runs without a load or the regulator? 2. The radiator mounts to the front clip. Besides the hoses, how would you support it so I can run the engine? 3. Anyone know the thread size of the water temperature gauge so I can plug that as well? Throw out your suggestions. Hopefully its running soon!!
  4. Step - By - Step front brake installation: Install the wheel cylinders to the backing plates Attach the brake hose to the wheel cylinder Slide the backing plate into position and run in the four bolts Slide the felt dust shield over the four bolts Place the felt retainers in position over the felt and over the four bolts. Upper bolts use lock washers, lower bolts have castellated nuts and cotter pins. Install the five screws and lock washers that hold the baffle in position over the felt Baffle screwed in to positon Install the plungers into the wheel cylinders and push the retainer pins through the back of the plate. Prepare the adjusters with a little oil and a smear of grease over the threads and over the nipple end Install the bottom spring. Criss-Cross the shoes and fit the adjuster into position. Be sure the adjusting wheel is at the right side so it aligns with the adjuster opening. Shoes with adjuster installed ready to be installed in the backing plate Place shoes into position so the slots in the plungers fit in nicely and the retainer pins come through the holes Install the spring loaded keepers. Mine had a flatter base, then the spring, then the outer keeper has to be depressed and turned 90 degrees to lock in place Install the remaining three brake springs Internal brake parts are all assembled Clip the brake hose to the chassis support Hold the hose steady with a 5/8 wrench while tightening up the brake lines. Slide the inner bearing race into position Smear a light coating of grease over the bearing surface Grease the inner hub bearing Looking Good!! Slide the brake drum into position. The inner surfaces were sanded with a 320 then a 600 grit to smooth out the braking surface. Massage that grease into the outer bearing Insert the outer bearing into position Insert the outer bearing race into position Install the keyed flat washer and the large castellated nut. Remember, it is a left hand thread on the drivers side. Adjust so the wheel turns freely but there is no movement when you push on the top and bottom. There should be no "rocking" of the drum Once satisfied that the drum revolves freely, line up the cotter key holes Key it and cap it! Tightened all brake lines, installed the brass block with a retainer clip, installed the brake light switch, filled the master cylinder and began to bleed the brakes. Doing one wheel at a time, starting with the left rear, I pumped the pedal until all the air was out. Then held the pedal down while the bleeder valve was closed. I added more brake fluid to the master cylinder before we started the next wheel. Did all four wheels, checked for leaks at every connection point. tightened a couple. I have no leaks now and a nice pedal. All in all a really nice day! fin A recent post suggested a front end alignment. I totally agree. It's on the list once she's roadworthy. Thanks guys and have a good night.
  5. Saturday Morning, April 22. I started setting up and organizing early so the front end rebuild and the brake install goes as easy as possible. This first set of photos details the installation of the Coil Springs and the front stabilizer bar. (Brakes in the next post) All the parts needed set up and organized for the installation. 1. Install the upper rubber bumper using silicone to help ease the installation 2. While the shock arms were still easy to move, I filled them with hydraulic fluid and pumped them up and down until the chamber was completely full. 3. Begin installing the spring plate onto the lower control arm by setting the bolts closest to the center of the car first. 4. Slide the lower bumper rubber into position into the retainer plate / stabilizer plate assembly 5. Install the lower rubber retainer plate, tighten up the castellated nuts 6. Cotter pins secured into position. The lower arm is ready for coil spring installation now. 7. We applied a light coat of grease to the top and the bottom of the spring to help eliminate squeaks if the spring moves a little. Push the spring up into the chassis. 8. Raise the arm up with a jack, nice and slow, guiding the mounting holes into position. We had the punch ready to help the alignment. 9. The punch is the most valuable tool here. Once lined up, set one bolt and then get the other in place. I had to push very very hard to the outside to align the mounts. 10. Once one was in place, the others lined up fairly easy. a little tap helped it get through the newly painted holes. 11. Right Coil Spring installed (Front view) 12. Right coil spring installed. Rear view 13. On the left side I placed a piece of wood between the chassis and the vertical arm. By doing this, when we jacked up the arm the holes lined up much easier! 14. Left Coil Spring installed 15. A lot of silicone and you can push the stabilizer bar through the rubber mount 16. Using a piece of wood for leverage, push down on the stabilizer when all those rubber parts are assembled while a helper tightens up the nut. 17. Front stabilizer bar installed. Now on to the brakes!
  6. Spent Thursday and Friday cleaning every front end part. Then painted them and got everything ready for the big Saturday morning install. Here is the preparation work leading up to the build. Spring plates as removed from the car. Everything wire-wheeled clean, and painted gloss black Backing plates and drums also prepared Chassis cleaned, scrubbed with acetone and painted with POR-15. Much easier to get those hard-to-reach spots when it's all opened up. All the internal brake parts from one side. This is after soaking in thinner for two days. Everything is wire-wheeled clean, then... Every part gets an acetone bath to be sure all grease and oils are removed for paint. All the parts set up for painting. All parts painted and allowed to dry completely overnight Meanwhile, I cleaned all the bearings, races and related parts so they look nice and clean: Ready to be greased and installed! Front stabilizer parts also painted up and ready for installation Early Saturday morning. I like to set up the parts so everything I need is readily accessible. When I stay organized the job goes so much better. This is all the parts to assemble the right side. So, Saturday morning, I installed the first part. The upper rubber bumper. I sprayed it with silicone to make it a little easier. Once the lip grabs, tip it and twist it into position. First part in! It is also the last part that required no tools! My next post will detail the front end assembly process. Coil springs, Brakes, front stabilizer, finalize the brake system and bleed it and finally install the clutch equalizer rod from the block to the chassis. Lot of work accomplished in the last few days!
  7. FRONT COIL SPRING REMOVAL: I removed the coils quite easily. I was concerned with the safety factor of these large springs, but by going slow and careful, it worked out fine. Just so you know, the right spring i placed my jack directly under the spring to support it while the lower control arm was disconnected from the front crossmember. When I did the drivers side, I placed the jack on the control arm shaft, between the two mountings, and that position work out very well also. Passenger's Side jack location. Directly under the spring. Driver's Side jack location: Placed directly on the lower control arm shaft between the two chassis mountings. I wanted to try this position only because in my mind this seemed like I would have a little more leverage on the spring. It really didn't seem to matter much. Once the spring is supported by the jack,..... Remove the four nuts, bolts and lock washers that secure the lower control arms to the frame. YOU MUST KNOCK THE BOLT COMPLETELY OUT BEFORE LOWERING THE JACK! All nuts removed, ready to knock the bolts up through the crossmember Slowly begin lowering the jack. You can see the mounts begin to drop free of the frame. Lower the jack and the spring literally falls right out onto the floor. Finish the front end disassembly by removing the cotter pins, castellated nuts and bolts that secure the heavy plate that houses the rebound rubber and the front stabilizer bar to the lower control arms. Once that plate is removed, the rebound rubber had to be pried off and scraped clean. Finally, remove the last couple of bolts to release the heavy spring plate from the control arms. The finished project. At this point, every part was scraped clean of rust, grease and scale. Everything was scrubbed with acetone using sand paper and a scotch brite pad. Then a nice coat of POR-15 gloss black was applied. So nice to get in and out of all those tight spots when it is all apart like this. Then, many, many hours to wire wheel the spring plates, the stabilizer plates, dust covers, felt retainers, backing plates and brake drums. All got a nice coat of gloss black. Then on to the smaller brake parts..... retainers, springs, nuts and bolts, all wheeled and sprayed. All ready for reassembly tomorrow morning. Also: When everything was hanging loose, I used my grease gun to be sure every grease fitting was clear and grease was free to flow through the fittings. And: BE CAREFUL not to "twist around" or "rotate" the mounting shaft of the lower control arm. If it is rotated, it will affect the alignment of your front end. It is threaded to make adjustments so just be sure it goes back up in the position it was removed.
  8. Front End Disassembly: I tore down the front brakes completely (including removing the backing plates) and Removed the front coil springs. It was all done together, not necessarily brakes then springs, but I'll display the brake sequences together then next post for the coil spring removal. Here goes! The front end project started by first pushing the chassis out of the garage, spinning it around and pushing it back in so the front end was easily accessible. I jacked it up, supported the frame with stands and blocked the rear wheels to prevent movement. Once the front tires were removed, I was ready to go. Ready to start the brake teardown Pry off the dust cap Remove the cotter key Then unscrew the large castellated nut, flat washer, outer wheel bearing and race. A magnet helps get this stuff out. The front left wheel has a left-handed threaded nut. Using a "spoon" to loosen the brake shoes by turning the adjuster. It helps ease the drum removal. Pry off the drum. I used two screwdrivers 180 degrees apart to finally free the drum from the shoes. The inner bearing comes out with the drum Slide off the inner bearing race Remove all four brake springs Then remove the shoe retainers. I used a pair of pliers to push in on the keeper, and turn it 90 degrees and it comes right off. Remove the brake shoes Use a 1/2" wrench to remove the two bolts holding the wheel cylinder to the backing plate Remove the wheel cylinder Remove five screws that hold the dust shield in place and remove it. Once the dust shield is out, remove the lower cotter pins, and begin removing the four nuts that secure the backing plates. When these are removed, there are two metal felt retaining strips that will also come out. Remove the backing plate and the brake is ready for scrubbing, wire wheeling, degreasing, cleaning, sanding and painting of every component. Coil springs next!
  9. Dave: Here are some photos of how the pedals mount: Hope it helps!
  10. Hello Tom and everyone else following along. I was planning to dedicate a post to thank the incredible "support team" out there, whether they know it or not, Everyone who has taken on a project of this magnitude knows how much it means to have people to lean upon when things aren't going quite as expected. When you find yourself in the weeds. When you feel like you've bitten off a little more than you can chew. Or. as Tom asked, when things go wrong completely out of your control. So I guess this is as good a time as ever to thank some people that have been so great through this restoration: First...gotta thank my wife, Cheryl, who puts up with all the mess, the grease, the smelly gasoline, thinner, acetone soaked clothes and taking over her quiet room and filling it with car parts! Second: My best bud, Mr. John Torchia. John will be 87 in July, has had wrenches in his hands since he was 8 and was the head mechanic for Hertz keeping the fleet running for his entire 40-year career. He has rebuilt thousands of engines, and has taught me more than any shop manual can ever teach anyone. With him, I've restored two Model "A" Fords, a 1914 Model "T" Ford and now the Buick. He still takes care of so many cars in our local clubs and he is very well known around these parts. I am very fortunate to have met him 20 years ago, and I have gained a lot of confidence just by working with him. He's the guy you see in the photos and is an inspiration that we don't have to get old and sedentary.....just keep pulling engines out of cars! Next: THIS FORUM. You guys are simply great and I truly appreciate all the private messages that help guide me along. So many messages come to me directly, (not through this forum), that it would be impossible to list everyone who has chimed in with so many helpful hints, without forgetting someone. But they are all appreciated. (Tom, LV Dave, 37 Buick, Taylormade, Larry, Don Micheletti, Matt McHinson, 39 Buick8.....the list is endless so I don't want to neglect anyone) But the point here: My grilles got destroyed by UPS upon delivery to Paul's Chrome Shop in PA. I called Dave Tacheny. 'Nuf said. Dave is great. Not only did he have a set, he didn't rip me off, he packaged them up and sent them directly to the Chrome Shop to eliminate one more UPS trip. Amazing customer service and extremely helpful every time I speak to him. And the guy knows his stuff! (PS I got Dave's name from the there you go!) So, the grilles are at the chrome shop and getting the TLC they deserve. And one more quick shout out to Waldron's Exhaust: again, UPS dented up my brand new muffler. I called Ruth, fully expecting to be told I have to buy another muffler, and fight it out with UPS. INSTEAD, she said simply send photos of the damage, they'll deal with UPS and my new muffler is being delivered today! Amazing! I am planning on listing all the providers that I used for the restoration once I'm done. But enough for now......Back to work! Thanks Guys (and gals)
  11. Wednesday April 19, 2017: Got home from work at 4:00 and worked on the Buick front end from 4:30 to 6;00. In that hour and a half i was able to disassemble the front end of the car and get all the parts soaking in thinner. Basically, I dismantled the front brakes and removed the backing plates, and I did get the front coil springs out without any drama. It went quite easily. I have photos to document each step of the brake disassembly and the steps I took to remove the front coil springs. I will try to post those photos tonight, but every hour of disassembly leads to 6 hours of degreasing, cleaning, wire wheeling, scrubbing, painting, organizing in preparation of the reassembly. My goal here is to have the front end completely reassembled this Saturday morning, so I have my work cut out for me tonight and tomorrow afternoon. But here are start photos and finish photos from last night: I jacked up the front end and set the frame down on stands, removed the wheels and blocked the rear wheels to prevent movement. Before After: Everything disassembled and cleaned, ready for paint tonight! This is how the day finished in a short two-hour time span. My next post I will document in a step - by - step fashion how this transition was accomplished.
  12. Tyler: Here are a few photos of my master cylinder. There is no connection from the clutch pedal to the brake components. I've sent a couple different angles. The only "thing" on top of the master cylinder is the cap itself. Hope these help!
  13. Lower Control Arms: Here are a few photos of my lower control arms: I am going to be replacing the front coil springs this week so these will be dropped to gain access to the springs. Mine do look a little different than Larry's. Right Left from top view Left Left lower control arm at the wheel side. Here's the plan for replacing the coil springs. I thought this approach would be the easiest option for keeping the control arms aligned.
  14. I took the kids away for Easter break. I needed a little break too! But I'm back, and starting the front coil springs, front brakes and finish installing the brake lines this week! Stay tuned!!
  15. All three of my water pump bolts are 2 1/4" long measured under the head. the first 1 1/4" under the head is blind, the last 1" is threaded.