Gary W

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Gary W last won the day on October 7

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About Gary W

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    NJ
  • Interests:
    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. Is this the contact you are talking about?
  2. Hi Neill; You should try Dave Tachney first. Give him a call and see what inventory he has. I had one frame that was good, but the passenger side was in pieces. It took a lot of epoxy, wood glue, duct tape and some wood strips to create enough support to get it back in restorable shape. Your Model 47 is a four-door "plain back" sedan. My Model 48 is a two-door model. I wonder if the size of the single door vs the size of your doors changes the size of the rear armrest, or are they fairly standard along the different models? My part # A-99001 was molded into the driver's side. My passenger's side armrest was damaged right at that spot where the part number is molded in. I'm sure if you can find one, it can be easily trimmed to work in your car. They seem like they are made from some sort of pressed cardboard?? or something along those lines. Here's your Model 47. I notice the rear door hinges are over the rear fender a bit. I think that will change the size of the armrests. If you can zoom in on the drawn inset photo from this page of the brochure, that armrest is shaped completely different that mine. This interior photo of your back seat shows your arm rests are differently shaped than mine. I don't see ash receivers in these either. My Model 48 has a lot of room between the door and the rear fender. I don't know if that changes the size of the rear seat upholstery panels and armrests? This photo of a Model 48. Here you can see the difference in the shape. After cleaning up 80 years of crud, this is what I had left to work with. I finally ended up using epoxy to hold all the seams together. Ready to be reupholstered. I'm so glad to hear my work is helping you out! Good Luck with your restoration! Here's the "Armrest Build" from March: Gary
  3. Condition of the panels that I was working with: They were all cracked and stained, but they served their purpose getting the new panels installed. It was with great pleasure that I finally dumped these in the trash!!! Gary
  4. Thank you for the kind words! I really appreciate the support and I am so happy that my work is being followed by so many fellow enthusiasts! I have to admit, I was nervous about tackling the interior. The most valuable installation tool, the thing that helped the most, was meticulous notes and photographs as I removed the interior from the car. Especially those rear panels that attach to the armrests. I studied them over and over and developed a plan to do the install. I actually wrote my notes directly on the panels as I removed them and it helped immensely. I really wish these kits had some sort of instructions, even a simple step-by-step "guide" so you kinda know what to do first.... But I'm sure there are as many opinions and techniques out there as there are installers. Everyone has their own "tricks of the trade", their own "order of operations" and maybe that's why they don't include hard and fast instructions? All I hope is that by detailing the way I did it, someone else out there can see the steps I took, the materials I used and maybe will decide to tackle their own interior job. And most likely will come up with a better way to do the job! All in all, I am very satisfied with the quality, fit and finish of the LeBaron kit. A few spots needed trimming, but overall a very nice kit. I think the key is take your time, measure, measure and then measure before cutting anything. My notes, numbered right on the panels before I took them all apart.
  5. Gary W

    Shift lever spring -37 Special

    I called Dave Tachney for mine. Was broken exactly as yours.
  6. Wednesday October 10, 2018: Pulling fabric over the brads The forward edge of the rear panels attaches to the nailer strip using a bunch of fine wire brads. I used a slight variation of Ted's technique displayed above.... and it worked very well! Thank you! Here you can see where the material is kind of "dimpled" at that lower area where I just pushed the brad through. Another close up view of the "dimple" it creates. I'm using a retired dental tool like the "ice pick" Ted detailed above. Going in parallel to the fabric, but not grabbing the foam board underneath, I was able to turn the handle, lifting the tine and freeing the material from the head of the brad. Look at that! Presto-magico! Thanks again! Gary
  7. Thank you Ted! I really appreciate the expert advice. I have about 20 tiny brads to pull the fabric over, but I just needed to know the proper technique. I don't want to ruin the fabric at this point!! I'll get out in the garage today and give it a try. Gary
  8. Sunday October 7, 2018: Front pillar windlace retainers, windshield garnish molding, rearview mirror, defrosters (Part 2) Here's the dash now with the defroster deflectors installed. It really looks beautiful! You can see the rearview mirror and the windlace retainers installed. I need longer defroster hoses now that I've installed a radio. This resizing really makes all the photos look so fuzzy... Sorry about that. Question: I have all the lower screws and the two that go up the sides of the windshield garnish molding. I cannot for the life of me find where the upper screws go in! Here's a photo of the front when I took the glass out. It looks like the garnish screws made an imprint between the windshield rubber and the frame. They aren't really in anything.... This can't be correct..... correct? Thanks for following along!! Gary
  9. Sunday October 7, 2018: Front pillar windlace retainers, windshield garnish molding, rearview mirror, defrosters I finished last night getting the last of the panels installed. Today I turned my attention to the front of the car Flashback to November 3, 2016... Ready to drive her home. The focus is the windshield pillar and the windlace retainer sandwiched between the windshield garnish molding and the front door garnish molding. January, 2017: documenting the removal of the windlace retainer, Peeling back the fabric reveals a steel retainer, held in by three serrated nails. Notice how nice the fabric is tucked around the steel part. And now out, I can see where the laces were cut, how they all fit... I wire wheeled these, primed them and painted them in the Summer. My marks are on there from when I removed them from the car. The single hash mark denotes "drivers front", the arrow points "up", always marked on the side that sits to the car so they don't show. Quick little dremel trick that saves tons of time a year later! Extra headliner fabric up top, the original fabric just under, the metal retainers and the nails, still bagged and tagged. Mark where the nails go through. Punch the holes out. This way the nail (I ended up using screws) won't pull your fabric on the way in. Temporarily, I used duct tape to keep the fabric in position while I went out to the car. Pull back the windlace just enough to find the body mounting holes. Mark them with blue tape because you cannot find them when you are juggling all the material... Align the metal retainer, punch through the holes in the fabric, carry the punch through the windlace and any other fabric in there. I used #10 SS slotted screws and they fit perfectly and the retainer tightened up nicely. Once tight, remove the duct tape, flap the material over the windlace And I tucked it under the rubber windshield seal to finish the install. With the windlace retainers installed, it was time to install the windshield garnish molding. The service manual states to replace the center division after the garnish is installed, so I had to remove it first. I taped the outside center division to the glass so the center piece wouldn't fall off and scratch the hood. Then it's just four screws and the center division comes off with the rubber under it. Protect, protect, protect that beautiful woodgrain. I really didn't know how this was going to go. My son and I had a little slow go for a bit, but we were able to get it in. Notice, no screws yet. Still trying to line up the top where the rearview mirror attaches. I did get all the lower screws in place, then replaced the center division, and attached the rearview mirror. Then I needed help again to install the defroster deflectors. What a pain with all the wires, glove box, radio!!! Much easier coming out! Part (2) next
  10. Saturday October 6, 2018: Passenger Rear Quarter Interior Panels Part 2 of 2 Continue tucking the fabric under the pillar panel And the pillar panel is nice and secure. The seams line up very nice if you take your time and trim the cardboard carefully. I figured this seam is always visible so I wanted to be sure it really looked nice. Now for the upper panel with the attached headliner welt. Like yesterday, I started by marking out the roof tack strip with blue tape as a guide when I'm stapling. Again... I start right at the most visible seam where the pillar panel meets the upper panel. Working backward to secure the panel over the window, and then forward to secure the welting to the headliner, the panel is in. I made the releasing incisions with the panel in the car because I found it easier to know exactly where the window opening is. Nothing can intrude on the window opening or you won't get your garnish molding in there. Once the cuts are made, go around and tuck the fabric up under the panel. Once tucked in, the panel looks so much neater. Install the rubber bumpers in the garnish molding. Remove all four window channel felt retaining screws so the garnish molding will slide in. You need to push up hard, then the lower will jump over the steel frame and snap in place. Carefully find the channel holes, the garnish holes and the body holes and replace the four screws. Window riser knob installed and the panels are in!!! As I said before, these kits come with NO instructions at all. I hope by detailing the procedures in a step-by-step fashion it will help someone out. Of course, this is how I did it. I'm sure a professional installer knows the many tricks to the trade, but I hope I can give someone the confidence to tackle this job. Tomorrow I want to install the front pillar windlace retainers, the front windshield garnish molding, the rearview mirror and hopefully the defroster vents. It's my mother-in-law's 80th........ what to do, what to do..... I can't install the front door garnish moldings yet until LBB sends the welting at 65" length. The ones they sent are about 6" short. Have a great night out there! Gary
  11. Saturday October 6, 2018: Passenger Rear Quarter Interior Panels Part 1 of 2 Today between soccer games and running to the airport, I managed to get the left, rear panels installed: Again, started with the armrest. It had to be reupholstered in the new seat fabric that I'm getting. I had to use a strip of wood to help support the staples, but I got it all done. I always test the panel ON ITS OWN without the armrest to be sure the mounting holes align, the surfaces align. Just like the other side, I had to cut a hole for the fourth mounting tab in the body. This panel is only cut with three for some reason. Again, but this time I test fit the panel WITH the armrest, again to make any final trim adjustments down by the floor... to get it all fitting nicely. Align and throw the fabric over the armrest so you can staple the panel to the armrest flange and secure them together. Now that these are secured as one unit, I make the perimeter cuts to pull the fabric around the panel. I go all around, testing and testing before cutting too close to the panel. You don't want the cut to show. On the back side, I sprayed a border of headliner adhesive. Let is set 5 minutes. Once tacky, I started pulling the fabric tight and wrapped it around the perimeter of the panel. Back in the car, hooked on all the body hooks and aligned with the door windlace, I made the cut to expose the window riser handle. Then I bought over the pillar panel. I did this part FIRST yesterday because that side has a dome light and I wanted the holes to line up correctly. Today, I set the bottom panel in first, then this pillar. Here, I'm getting the forward edge tight to the windlace and measuring against the lower panel and the window opening. After trimming the cardboard, I went back to the car for a final check. Looks good. I made all the perimeter releasing cuts first using Ted's "rounded pizza slice" technique. Then, like yesterday, I sprayed the headliner adhesive around the perimeter on the side that will stick to the car. Flap the fabric over and staple the leading edge through the windlace to secure the forward edge. A little pressure and you can pull the lower panel away just enough to start pushing the fabric under the pillar panel. I used the thin, plastic tool and started smoothing the fabric under the panel. The adhesive is under there to hold it secure. Part two next....
  12. Thanks Matt! That's what I needed! Yes, that's the welt I was referring to. Gary
  13. All my escutcheons are the same. But I had to replace ones that were cracked, broken and missing so I don't know the correct answer. You may be correct though! Sounds logical
  14. Only the window riser handle had a spring behind it. The vent and the door handle did not. I agree with you. I don't think it should be rubbing, but the panels lay nice and flat over the door so... don't know..... For all you '37 owners... Question: Does your front door garnish molding have a welting attached to it? The car had one when I took it apart, but did not have the fabric piece and I 'm wondering if the previous installer opted to not use the fabric, but place a welt around the front, top and rear of the garnish? There was no welt attached to the rear garnish moldings, just the front two. Curious. Thanks As I was removing the interior in January, 2017: Notice the welting around the forward edge of the door garnish molding. Garnish moldings out and on the bench. This welt was glued to the inside. Just another view of how it was applied. I'm assuming this is correct being that LBB did send two strips of material that I assume is for this. Both are 6" short, but I don't know where else they would be used.
  15. Friday October 5, 2018: Interior Part 4 With the pillar panel and the lower panel / armrest installed, it was time to install the upper panel with the headliner welting. I taped along the headliner where the tack strip is located so I could shoot the staples without ripping the headliner or missing entirely! Then I tried the panel in, made the releasing incisions where necessary and took my time aligning everything so the seams look good. These air guns are just great. I was using Duo-Fast 9/16" staples to go through the welt, the panel, the headliner and into the tack strip. I worked nice and slow, being sure the welt laid in nice and straight without any weird ups and downs. Then I tucked in the fabric just like the pillar panel to give it a nice smooth finish. Remove all four screws holding your window felt channel to install the garnish molding. It slides between the two. At this point, I pushed the garnish molding into place. Watch your fingers when that thing grabs the lower sill! The garnish is in, now you have to find your holes that hold the felt channel in place. Using a punch, I went through the felt, the garnish molding and into the screw hole in the car. Here is the rear quarter panels. I'm very satisfied with the seams, the fit and finish. The garnish molding looks great against the new fabric. You see I also installed the window riser handle. So here's the passenger side as of tonight. Going forward, I have to install the welt around the front window garnish molding, and install the garnish molding. Then, up front there is a metal piece that gets covered with headliner material Then the windshield garnish. So, still a job ahead. Have a great night! Gary