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About first64riv

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  1. Update: black seems to be the color on Google images. Perhaps these are painted. Unfortunately I don't know the back story on these caps. I'll keep researching.
  2. The rims are priced shipped. No additional costs added. I'll research the center cap colors. These caps were original to the rims. Chris
  3. I'm not 100% sure but I don't see why they wouldn't fit. I believe the hub bore in the rear of the 65 is smaller than the 63 and 64. In that case, you'd be relying on the lug nuts to center the rim to the hub as opposed to the registration ring. Honestly, I would not buy these for a Riv. These need to go on a Wildcat. That's the purist in me talking and in no way am I a purist but in this case...I am. Chris
  4. Art, I don't know what protocol would be but you could always send me a message by clicking that envelope looking icon in the top right corner of the page. I'll send you my personal email or cell # through there. Whatever method of communication is best, i'll do. Chris
  5. Art, The wheels and caps are still available. I haven't actively tried to sell them anywhere else but here. Chris
  6. Hello Randall, Keep an eye out on Craigslist for the motor. I see them occasionally and I search the term "nailhead". This forum is a good source of information. If you have a static drop, then it's pretty low. I comment on it because I know certain parts of the Rivi hang pretty low. BTW, mine is lowered too but not that low. I hope you find that motor. I'm in San Diego, and I know there is a rebuilt one in Ramona on CL right now. Chris
  7. Builders mark on a 1964 Riv

    Little known fact...this QA guy went on to create what we now know as the modern day emoji. Chris
  8. BlackRiver, Don't go jumping off the bridge too quickly. I echo the sentiments of MrEarl. I have a lowered Rivi (mild kustom) and I've learned that classic car guys are pretty set in their ways. I've always lowered my classics...all two of them! Haha. The last car was a 66 Impala. I come to this board knowing that people are going to have opinions, good and bad. I understand you're wanting to defend your tastes and things like that but I think when you start doing so, you give others an "in" to keep prodding. Hey we all do it...I do it to my wife! But at the end, we all have a common passion...the Riviera. This is a public forum and it's gonna happen. Just take the high road. As far as Bernie goes...I've been around guys like him and if you sat down and had a talk with him, he's just like you and I. He's a little unfiltered at times but that's what makes him, him. I don't know the guy, I just know him from his board posts but if he's anything like some of the older gents I know...then he's good people. I hope you stay because we lowered rivis, bad springs and all, gotta stick together. BTW, i'm lowered the right the rear at least. Chris
  9. After reading your comments and thinking about the steps I went through I completely understand what you mean. It'll make life easier the next time I have to work with the distributor. Thanks for your responses, they've been very helpful.
  10. Tom, I did compensate for the "cut" of the distributor gear. Even when I backed it up to meet at the pre-#1 firing position prior to install to compensate, it would drop into the gear (at the right firing position) but never seat on the oil pump. The manual says to crank the car until it seats into the oil pump and start over with the distributor in the car. When I did this, it would seat but it would also be one firing position off in the forward direction. That's when I decided to turn the oil pump groove. The manual does say to remove the vacuum line on the advance but it never says to plug it. I mention that because numerous websites I visited said to plug the vacuum line after you pull it prior to setting the timing. That's my fault and I should have been more detailed. So, the manual says to "disconnect the vacuum line" but does not mention plugging it. The balancer is okay as far as I can tell. I took her for a drive yesterday and I felt her pull me back into my seat. I've never felt that on any of my previous drives. She seems pretty dialed in. To say i'm more than happy would be an understatement. Thank you to all that contributed to this thread. Chris
  11. Final update... The car is dialed in at 2.5 deg of timing at 550 RPM idle. Here are things to note for future DIY'ers like me. 1. If the distributor does not seat all the way down, I would not recommend cranking it until it does as the manual suggest. Instead I would remove the distributor and, using a flat screwdriver, align the oil pump tang with the distributor pointed at the #1 cylinder. I did as the manual suggested and kept coming up one firing position too far after the distributor seated the final 1/2". 2. Finding TDC using a finger over the #1 plug hole get you very close to TDC on the compression stroke. Once you feel the air pushing on your finger, manually turn the crank the rest of the way to line up the timing marks. 3. I did not plug the vacuum line to the advance when I was setting my timing. The manual does not say anything about plugging it. I will check timing again once I finish charging the battery. I hope it runs better than it did before. Next up is re-tuning the carb! Thank you Chris
  12. Alright another update. I went through the procedure in the service manual starting on page 10-38. The car is alive again. It's time to tidy up the wiring and set the timing. I'll get on that in the morning. To be continued... Thank you to everyone that's chimed in so far. Chris
  13. Alright here's the latest update. I lined the crank timing mark with the 2.5 deg mark on the marker at TDC. I installed the distributor into the engine and lined up the rotor with the #1 plug. I wired the Pertronix to the coil and fired it up. It started for about five seconds and died. I then tried to start it up again and it would not start. I lined up the crank pulley again at the 2.5 deg mark and pulled the rotor. It was off by one plug in the firing direction. So I realigned it again. Was that the wrong thing to do? At this point I think the carb is flooded so I'm going to try again tomorrow morning before I go to work. Any tips before I proceed? Thank you Chris
  14. Thanks for the tip about the #4 cylinder. I guess i'll have to check the low point on the #4 cylinder. I ran a Pertronix on my 66 Impala when I had it and it fired up no issues. I installed it while it was on the car, which was tough. That's the reason I had no issues. I guess the only silver lining in this is that I'm pretty much no longer afraid to work on a distributor repair or replacement. Chris
  15. Okay. I'll rotate the crank balancer to the 0 mark when I start working on it again. I'll reinstall the distributor with the rotor at the #1 mark. I've got a timing light, so I'll play with that too. I hope this makes my car perform better than what it was, which wasn't bad...but I had no other baseline to reference. Thank you Chris