• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About first64riv

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

363 profile views
  1. After reading your comments and thinking about the steps I went through I completely understand what you mean. It'll make life easier the next time I have to work with the distributor. Thanks for your responses, they've been very helpful.
  2. Tom, I did compensate for the "cut" of the distributor gear. Even when I backed it up to meet at the pre-#1 firing position prior to install to compensate, it would drop into the gear (at the right firing position) but never seat on the oil pump. The manual says to crank the car until it seats into the oil pump and start over with the distributor in the car. When I did this, it would seat but it would also be one firing position off in the forward direction. That's when I decided to turn the oil pump groove. The manual does say to remove the vacuum line on the advance but it never says to plug it. I mention that because numerous websites I visited said to plug the vacuum line after you pull it prior to setting the timing. That's my fault and I should have been more detailed. So, the manual says to "disconnect the vacuum line" but does not mention plugging it. The balancer is okay as far as I can tell. I took her for a drive yesterday and I felt her pull me back into my seat. I've never felt that on any of my previous drives. She seems pretty dialed in. To say i'm more than happy would be an understatement. Thank you to all that contributed to this thread. Chris
  3. Final update... The car is dialed in at 2.5 deg of timing at 550 RPM idle. Here are things to note for future DIY'ers like me. 1. If the distributor does not seat all the way down, I would not recommend cranking it until it does as the manual suggest. Instead I would remove the distributor and, using a flat screwdriver, align the oil pump tang with the distributor pointed at the #1 cylinder. I did as the manual suggested and kept coming up one firing position too far after the distributor seated the final 1/2". 2. Finding TDC using a finger over the #1 plug hole get you very close to TDC on the compression stroke. Once you feel the air pushing on your finger, manually turn the crank the rest of the way to line up the timing marks. 3. I did not plug the vacuum line to the advance when I was setting my timing. The manual does not say anything about plugging it. I will check timing again once I finish charging the battery. I hope it runs better than it did before. Next up is re-tuning the carb! Thank you Chris
  4. Alright another update. I went through the procedure in the service manual starting on page 10-38. The car is alive again. It's time to tidy up the wiring and set the timing. I'll get on that in the morning. To be continued... Thank you to everyone that's chimed in so far. Chris
  5. Alright here's the latest update. I lined the crank timing mark with the 2.5 deg mark on the marker at TDC. I installed the distributor into the engine and lined up the rotor with the #1 plug. I wired the Pertronix to the coil and fired it up. It started for about five seconds and died. I then tried to start it up again and it would not start. I lined up the crank pulley again at the 2.5 deg mark and pulled the rotor. It was off by one plug in the firing direction. So I realigned it again. Was that the wrong thing to do? At this point I think the carb is flooded so I'm going to try again tomorrow morning before I go to work. Any tips before I proceed? Thank you Chris
  6. Thanks for the tip about the #4 cylinder. I guess i'll have to check the low point on the #4 cylinder. I ran a Pertronix on my 66 Impala when I had it and it fired up no issues. I installed it while it was on the car, which was tough. That's the reason I had no issues. I guess the only silver lining in this is that I'm pretty much no longer afraid to work on a distributor repair or replacement. Chris
  7. Okay. I'll rotate the crank balancer to the 0 mark when I start working on it again. I'll reinstall the distributor with the rotor at the #1 mark. I've got a timing light, so I'll play with that too. I hope this makes my car perform better than what it was, which wasn't bad...but I had no other baseline to reference. Thank you Chris
  8. Ok guys. Thank you for all the responses. YES, this car ran with points. YES, I'm an idiot and installed the Pertronix any way. My son pointed out that I probably should have left it alone. BTW, he's 7. Sigh. 1st - I believe my Pertronix unit is bad. I did a test on the unit, per Pertronix, and the voltage does not fluctuate as it rotates. 2nd - In regards to TDC, I do have the AC compressor in the way of the #1 cylinder but I can still access is fairly easy. I put my index finger in the hole and let my wife bump the ignition until it popped my finger out. So I am sending the Pertronix off to Jeg's tomorrow for an exchange. In the meantime, The distributor has been removed and I've reset the car to "TDC" and marked the crank pulley. The real timing mark is about 2 inches away in the before position from the timing marks. Do you guys think I should move it up by turning the pulley? Or just start where I'm at? I'll drop a chopstick into the plug hole when I start working on it again. This is so disheartening. It was such a dumb mistake and I'm extremely inexperienced with TDC/Distributor troubleshooting. Thank you guys! Chris
  9. Sorry. I should have been more clear. The timing marks are way off from the pulley mark. Is this normal? I wouldn't think so...shouldn't it be at 0 when at TDC?
  10. I am very familiar with that image/diagram. I removed the distributor and marked the block but not the rotor. At TDC my timing mark is way off from 0 degrees static timing. Chris
  11. Ed, So are you saying the pressure blowing out of the # 1 cylinder as my wife bumps the ignition may not be TDC? It is my understanding that once pressure leaves the cylinder you are at TDC. Is this wrong? Chris
  12. Hello all, So I installed a Pertronix and I forgot to mark the rotor with respect to the plug #. I went and found TDC using my finger and # 1 cylinder. Noted the rotors position and installed wire # 1 with respect to that. I've tried to start the car and it won't start. Doesn't shoot fire through the carb or anything. Should I reinstall the OE points and start over? What else could I try before reinstalling the OE parts? Chris
  13. "pulling the door skins"...that's unchartered territory for me. I will if I have to.
  14. KongaMan I didn't even think about that. But what if they were welded shut? I'll try the magnet since it's easy. Thank you. Chris
  15. Hey guys, The previous owner of my 64 Riviera debadged, dechromed, and shaved all the holes for all the trim and emblems. Could someone point me to the trim placements and emblem placement locations? I have no problem drilling and installing the trim/emblems myself but I need to, dimensionally, know where the original holes are. Are these dimensions in the body manual? Thank you Chris