• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

22 Excellent

About automaschinewerks

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Neustadt, Ontario, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

966 profile views
  1. automaschinewerks

    dictator serial number plates

    thanks guys, I'm realizing now i bought the wrong replacement plate for my 26, but i guess ill use it anyway. oh well, its only money. i don't have my proper serial number for the 28, the original plate is missing, but I'm going to order a replacement for it anyways
  2. automaschinewerks

    dictator serial number plates

    thanks studeq, i did read about and looked for the number under the drivers side and did not see any sign, so i guess they maybe didn't stamp frames as early as 28, like you said. i just read it somewhere on the net about the frame stamped number and thought it would be neat to find. if the number was stamped in, I'm sure i would see a sign of it, my frame does not appear to have been heavily rusted at all.
  3. automaschinewerks

    dictator serial number plates

    thanks, i will give them a try. as far as the frame stamped number goes, i just want to know where it actually is supposed to be, my frame does not appear that it was heavily rusted, so i wanted to check for it. were the numbers so lightly stamped that it didn't take much to erase them? thanks - terry
  4. hello everyone, i am looking at two different serial number plates on ebay, to replace the missing tag on my 28 dictator. there are two different plates shown, and i want to pick the correct one if possible. could someone shed some light, or post a picture of their plate, and also ive read that the serial number is stamped on the lower frame rail flange. is that true, and if so where is it? i looked under the drivers side frame and cant see anything, my frame was blasted and painted, but as a whole, it wasn't very rust pitted. thanks - terry
  5. hello everyone, i am looking for the bottom half of the intake\exhaust manifold, where the carburetor bolt to. casting number appears 127864. i can (and probably will) silver solder the cracks and pieces together, block off the exhaust ports, and run it for now to get the car running. the actual intake port throught the manifold doesn't look cracked. thanks - terry
  6. hi jack, for your gaskets, olsens gaskets, has the obsolete gaskets, i have an obsolete gasket fellow on my side of the border in Ontario, that has the manifold and head gaskets, then i make the rest of the paper gaskets, for the bearings, your favorite local Babbitt bearing pouring fellow (if there is any), hasting piston rings in Michigan is the best i use to buy rings for anything antique, you can get their site on the web and use their diametrical list, and for valves and springs, i measure and go through my aftermarket valve supplier for head diameter, stem size and length. on my Erskine, i ended up with exhaust valves and keepers from 3.3l dodge minivan, turn down the head abit to fit exhaust seats, springs from 203 perkins from massey 50 industrial tractor, and retainers from vw diesel. the combination took abit to figure out. terry
  7. automaschinewerks

    Studebaker ???? Any Idea's ???

    Rich, is this plate for sale? thanks - terry
  8. automaschinewerks

    28 dictator fuel pump

    so here is the fuel pump I found, new old stock, was listed for 39 and up Studebaker, so I thought I would take a stab at it, and the pushrod is the length I need. I will probably try to change the clock position of the top casting, but for now I need to keep working on the Erskine engine. I appreciate everybodys information, pics, and suggestions on this, it has helped a lot. thanks - terry
  9. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    A few pictures of my filler block for rear main. its still in one piece, but in rough shape. in the pics is the aluminum block I had left over from a job about 5 years ago, and a rear seal housing from a modern (60's to 70's) continental for comparison. the size, shape, and offset of the area that the cork, or rope seal fits into is nearly identical. its funny to see similarities in some makes of engines and their parts designs when they are decades apart. I will post mores pics of progress, with dimensions, once I get things cleaned up and start carving the filler block from that block of aluminum. I knew this day was coming!
  10. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    yes, all but 3 of the water jacket cover bolts broke. I am going to take pictures and post when I have the various castings in the various machines to work on. this will be a story in progress!
  11. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    I haven't seen so much rust in a block in a long time, but I'm going to make a new baffle plate for the water jacket. I'm going home to check my parts manual tonight, but does anybody have a picture of a good baffle? thanks - terry
  12. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    hello everyone, well, dictator's engine is sitting back in the frame, so I pulled the Erskine engine out for overhaul over the winter.
  13. automaschinewerks

    28 studebaker dictator finally came home

    harry, the test stand lets me spin the engine once I get the bottom end assembled with oil pan, filled with oil and filter. I can then spin engine and check oil pressure. then I install head(s), spin some more and check compression. spin for awhile and I get an idea of oil leaks (or hopefully lack thereof!). because oil pressure is primed and lifters filled on newer engines, I can set rockers, install valve covers and engine is ready to drop in. my former boss' father made this stand in the late forties when he was rebuilding a lot of Babbitt engines. it originally is for running in the Babbitt bearings, but every engine we rebuilt goes on this stand to test oil pressure, compression, leaks, noise, etc. in books like dykes automobile encyclopedia, where they show sample floor plans for your shop, it shows in the overhaul section a 'burnishing-in stand', and that was for running in the new Babbitt. I put the dictator engine on because it was out of car when I bought the project. I wanted to clean the oil pan, put in fresh oil and spin it to check oil pressure and compression, to decide whether I was pulling it apart before I put it in the car. doing the test stand thing without running it under its own power, is easier to listen for foreign noises that shouldn't be there before I go too far with it and wreck something. other than that big speech, the idea behind using the test stand is because I have it, I guess. thanks for the question - terry
  14. automaschinewerks

    28 dictator fuel pump

    thanks everyone for the information and options. Gary, I checked that website and that was real interesting, thank-you. I probably will be in contact with them.\ as usual I have been scouring ebay for ideas and options, but heres a couple pics of pumps I had in the shop, one (yellow) from Hough payloader I bought ten years ago, and another from the inventory when I took over shop from my retiring boss.
  15. automaschinewerks

    28 dictator fuel pump

    spinneyhill and rbk: engine number is ge21864 casting number is 127353-3 casting date is h-4-13 I got the engine sitting back in the chassis, things are coming together and looking better! I will get some pics up (I forgot my phone at home again) thanks - terry btw, I'm calling off my search for front fenders, the ones I got looked better than I thought and I think I will use them. (still looking for some better rear fenders)