automaschinewerks

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About automaschinewerks

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    Neustadt, Ontario, Canada

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  1. automaschinewerks

    front wheel grease seals

    no i didn't need the clip
  2. automaschinewerks

    front wheel grease seals

    yes they have been in for a year and a half now, they fit perfectly with no machining.
  3. automaschinewerks

    29 Erskine Spark Advance Lever

    great looking car. great story being in the family. where are you from? the best thing I did was get the service manual and parts manual reprints of ebay, I actually get more use out of the parts manual. then get an original owners manual, it you don't already have one, theres a couple on ebay as well. terry
  4. automaschinewerks

    Balancing Connecting Rods

    your using washers under the nuts is a fine idea, just don't use cheap hardware store type washers, they may deform and lose abit of torque, i also use Loctite on the threads when i assemble and forget about the cotter pins and trying to line up the holes and slots. get your torque value (3/8 NF = 40 ft/lbs), use Loctite and torque the nuts. this will avoid trying to over/under tighten to line up holes for cotter pins. now about your pairing up rods on mating journals. that works for static balance, which is if you are looking at the end of the crank and only seeing a pulley, or a stone being swung around on a string. by keeping the rods and piston assemblys all the same weight, will keep the crank in dynamic balance, which means in balance along its length. you go mixing up your rods and having heavier/lighter to one end of the crank just kinda takes away the benefit of dynamic balancing the crank. so its best to use good hard washers, get the rods even weight, and don't mix up and regrind numbers. it makes things look like a dogs breakfast and I'm kinda fussy that way. terry and yes, trying to get 19 grams of a rod that doesn't have much of balance pad on the cap seems like eternity!
  5. automaschinewerks

    Balancing Connecting Rods

    i don't understand the heaviest and lightest pair on cyls number whatever and next heaviest and light on cyl numbers something else. the idea to balancing is the make the rotating assemblys masses exactly the same. and yes, i read now that he did balance the pistons
  6. automaschinewerks

    Balancing Connecting Rods

    i just looked at your figures, from what ive been trained, and read in balancing manuals, you need to lighten each big end to match the lightest big end, then turn rod around and make each small end weight the same as the lightest small end SEPARETLY. so number 1 rod is lightest on both ends, 750 and 228, so all rod ends much be lightened to match the lightest figure. also weigh each piston and face off bottom of skirt to match the lightest piston. pins should be weighed separately, but always seemed pretty close, if not perfect
  7. automaschinewerks

    Balancing Connecting Rods

    on a straight 4/6/8 engine, there is no need for bobweights because the 1-6, 2-5, 3-4 rod journals are equally spaced on the length of the crank from the centerline to the ends, and equally indexed at 120 degrees apart. on a v8 type engine, there are 4 rod journals equally indexed, but not mating on an equal spacing from the center main on the crank. that should be as clear as mud for balancing big ends i ground off at the corners where the rod bolt heads, and nuts seat. there is material hanging outside the head/nut that is doing anything for strength. on the small ends i like the idea of washers on the pinch bolt, or on circlip rods i have ground a big chamfer around the pin boss area, and sometimes narrowed the small end width abit, but not too much though! if grinding on the big ends, don't get the rod hot enough to melt babbit, (pretty much blue color). my former boss told me about an employee that did that, and i don't like getting screamed at, so i was careful not to star in that movie! terry
  8. automaschinewerks

    1928 Studebaker Dictator for sale

    i had a look at your fenders, as well as the other parts. i would give my left leg for the fenders for my dictator, but then i wouldn't be able to push the clutch pedal and the car would be useless to me, seriously though, if the fenders or any of the other parts were for sale separately, i would be interested. (or i could just buy your car to get fenders for mine) terry
  9. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    the last pic for the day: the short side cut off half of the seal housing and the drawing i got off of the remnant piece. if anybody needs a clarification on my dimensions, reply and ask. once i start making the bottom half i will show the drawing and more pics.
  10. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    here's the rear seal top half part of the project the full round sitting in groove to test the fit cummins piston top in lathe starting to turn the shape with what was left of the seal holder sitting on top the seal half in the block after i cut it in half ( still have to file fit to parting line) the seal half with crank in place
  11. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    here's a couple more: block in surface grinder showing valve guide cutoff tool to trim port side of guides down to level of casting to improve airflow block set up in honing machine to finish cylinders valve seat cutters to cut valve seats
  12. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    a couple more pics: showing the repair sleeves to be pressed into the block the boring bar mounted on top of block, and getting ready to finish bore sleeve inside to honing size
  13. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    (looking back on some of these pics I interesting, ive never taken time to do the before and after picture thing) so here's a couple more: lifter cam ends resurfaced lifter valve end in valve grinder butt wheel (cam ends done in same wheel, but have to rotate lifter to get swirl pattern and convex shape) turning valve heads to fit exhaust seats, then grind the faces in a valve grinder - early 2000s Chrysler 3.3l engine exhaust valves fit intake seats, for the exhaust valve I turned heads to 1 11\32" to fit in exhaust seats ill get more pics - vw diesel retainers, perkins 4.203 outer valve springs and Chrysler keepers to finish the valve train
  14. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    I got a few more pics, but I can only upload so much I guess. ill show some more progress next week, gonna be boring block for the repair sleeves soon
  15. automaschinewerks

    29 erskine engine rebuild

    well, the engine overhaul over the winter turned into - I hope I have time this fall to work on my own engine for a change! - here's a few pics so far: silver soldered crack on front of block, got the water jacket bolt holes drilled and tapped, and a pic of the lifters before and after resurfacing on both ends