cxgvd

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Everything posted by cxgvd

  1. cxgvd

    Just listed this morning 1914 Buick

    If possible I would buy the wooden rim from the steering wheel for my '15 c 25 project or any 17 inch OD smooth ( no finger grips) wood rim I could adapt. From the photos everything looks worn. I, too, live about an hour from Dearborn Heights. Regards, Gary
  2. If you are like me when I get a new toy I stay close to home until I get comfortable with the sound, smell and feel of the experience. This summer I have been using our 1939 Century with our local car club and ice cream runs, etc. Today went to breakfast in the town down the road with some friends and took the '39, my first time with passengers, 28 miles round trip. Thursday we are taking the car for a day trip to a Canadian National Park followed by a cruise night at a Museum, should be well over a hundred miles. Wish us luck, Gary BTW I am reviving this thread because I like it. My friends pictured below, keep smiling.
  3. Andrew; Congrats for purchasing the Model 31, it is beautiful and a correct looking car. In my opinion this Buick is the best of the mid sized cars of this era though I may be prejudiced since I have one as well. Apart from the total loss oil system the engineering is sound, nothing very odd. You have the acetylene starter still intact, very nice. What carburetor are you using? I am have some success with the Schebler Model O. Also with the center mount of the speedometer head does it not make for tight bends in the cable? All the best, we are attending the Old Car Fest perhaps we will see you there? Gary
  4. I received the final lot of nickel plating which has allowed me to finish my 1915 McLaughlin dashboard. I draw your attention to the brass name plate from the manufacturer, along the bottom it says to check the battery water every ten days. Ten days, how does an owner keep track of that, carry a calendar and write it down? The McLaughlin plate has stayed with the car for a hundred years and is in pristine condition, has to be a miracle. I think it is a neat detail. Regards, Gary
  5. Steers and stops straight, clean Ontario title, built in Flint Mi, proper black matches cowl tag. Older repaint and nicely reupholstered, shows well, pre war touring car. I've replaced the wiring harness and repaired cracks in the steering wheel. The bad, the car needs running board mats and has sealed beams, radio and clock non functioning, the good, has side mounts, fender lamps, decent chrome, 320 engine and 6V. I bought the Buick 1 1/2 years ago and have driven it trouble free 200 miles. I am more interested in the pre '16 cars so this car, though fine, may not be the correct fit for me. 16,500 USD located in Chatham, On about an hour east of Detroit. 519 three five two 8063 Gary
  6. Eighth day of the current heat and humidity wave but when a task needs doing I answer. A fellow car enthusiast passed away and his family asked for old cars to attend the funeral procession today. He and his wife were familiar tourists in Southern Ontario and were often seen in their shoebox Ford convertible. That is their car in the background of my photo with my 1939 Buick sedan at the funeral home. His widow, Judy. was my fifth grade teacher. I'm not kidding, honest, it was her first year of teaching and my first year of being in grade five. Buick performed well, hot but satisfied. Gary
  7. Here's mine. 1915 McLaughlin showing oil sight gauge, ignition and light switch, with a speedometer. The empty holes are for the choke or strangler cable and dash lamp yet to be installed. Btw it is a painted board. Regards, Gary
  8. cxgvd

    1929 Chevy hub caps

    '29 and '30 caps are interchangeable. The ones which have Chevrolet spelled in block letters is the '29 style and '30 is a blank bowtie. Regards, Gary
  9. cxgvd

    I JUST LOVE THE PICTURE OF THIS BUICK...........

    When I went to college my roommate had a '55 Special in baby blue. The key was broken in the lock and the car had an electrical short which would drain the battery so it was disconnected whenever it was parked. Anyone who knew these idiosyncrasies, and the fact the starter was activated by the gas pedal, could drive this 15 years old car. Oddly, people kept running into it, by the end of the four years it took to graduate, the Special acquired a yellow fender and green door and the insurance companies paid more than was originally paid for the car. Good car, Gary
  10. cxgvd

    spark and throttle lever "friction shoes"

    I do not have an answer for you except to say you should experiment. If dry, do they levers move freely without noise and keep the levers in place, then fine, dry. if not and the levers are herky jerky then some lubrication, maybe anti-seize compound. Good luck and let us know what you find out. Gary
  11. Been off this project for too long, my self imposed due date is 4 days away so an updated finish time is now Labour Day. Yesterday and today I have been installing and trimming the excellent battleship linoleum, walnut brown, I purchased from Tony Lauria in Pa. The ring you see is a repop from Gregg Lange in Mi and is called a floor thimble. It helps in lifting the main floor, gives you something to hang onto. I have one in my 1913 Buick but was missing in this 1915 McLaughlin, the beautiful plate which surrounds my shifter and parking brake I received with the project but am still missing a moulding around the exhaust cutout. Easy to replicate though. The mouldings are from L and L, a company which I believe is out of business. The windshield is finished and installed, the two buttons at the bottom center are tube nuts which, should be plated but to me that looks odd so they will be painted black. The handle inside is also black and is stamped with the name of the manufacturer. I erected the top I got with the job because I needed to measure the total height, 81", 5" less than the height of my trailer and 3" less than my 1913 Buick. The serial number of the car is stamped in large type in the front seat wooden, riser board and on a brass plate nailed to the floor. The total restoration, so far, two weeks short of 3 years, a big job, but doing everything myself, in my home workshop is a rewarding experience. Regards, Gary
  12. Hey Doug; See you there. My Buick is down for repairs waiting for parts from California. Catching a ride with a local guy you know, Len, in his limousine at 7:00. Only my 2nd time at Country Cruise. Gary
  13. Next project, and electricity is my weakest subject among others. I am confident, I have good parts, tools and a book. Wish me luck, Gary
  14. Next final update. I've found a gas leak, a small one, it softens the undercoating and leaves a stain, seems the outlet pipe is cracked on the sender. I could have repaired the crack but the cork float inside the tank is seized in the empty position. Since reproductions are available I ordered one from Bob's killing two birds with a single stone. Sound fuel line, all new wiring from gauge to float and no need to outrun a trail of flame. Regards, Gary
  15. Neil; I hope you are correct concerning my gas gauge. I once ran out of fuel at 3/4 mark on the dash so likely a trip to the gas station is in order following a visit with my financial guru. Washed the Century after lunch I am a happy camper. Gary
  16. My wife and I wanted a car to drive on prewar tours which are becoming popular in our area, Motor Muster at the Henry Ford, Gilmore and local clubs all have at least one. We have a prewar car but we wanted a faster, late thirties sedan, really a roadster but being on a fixed income, a sedan. I believed you couldn't be a proper gear head until you have had a Packard but then I found this 1939 Century was available. I've admired this car for over twenty years. This car was an early example for Ziebart rustproofing and was in one of their showrooms for decades, taken out for the occasional show. The fellow I purchased the '39 from drove the car 1,000 miles in the past 10 years. The car needed a lot of things to make it a touring car, I changed all of the fluids, scraped out the oil pan but mostly the wiring was in poor condition. It is not an original car, it has been repainted and reupholstered and the undercoating is excellent. Just finished changing the wiring harness and we have a nearby show in mind in two weeks. The photo is taken in front of my shop which was built in 1954. No more thoughts of getting a Packard, this is the car for me. Regards, Gary
  17. Final update, I have who friend who says education is expensive until you try to do without it. Body harness is attached running along the floor and everything works, but I am not happy with the job because it is messy and I had to remove the original trunk matting and likely did some damage to the fabric. My headliner is a replacement though nicely done and I am loathe to mess it up as well. I am thinking I will remove the harness, store it, and run new wires individually. Then I can make them anyway I want and hide them better, you don't see them until the last few inches before the lamps. Started the engine this morning and my wife and I went for a test drive around the county maybe ten miles. Steering wheel is finished and I am pleased with the result, speedometer is free now until at least 60 MPH, gas gauge reads mostly E though I put in two or three gallons from the lawn mower so I suspect it is not working properly. The '39, which have named Trudy, is quiet and comfortable. I'm sure it will become a good and reliable touring car. And I installed a Buick 8 valve cover vinyl from Bob's, next a spring time wash. Thanks, Gary
  18. Update Thursday. Main or engine wiring harness is in, the engine starts and the ammeter reads charging correctly according to dashboard gauge. No smoke or sparks, however, I learned I have the wrong voltage regulator and the vacuum switch is not functioning. I installed a spring loaded button located inside the car to run the starter for now. Brought the engine up to temp and changed the oil. Last night I reviewed Gary W fine restoration post concerning his wiring and found we had the same problem specifically which terminals to attach which wires at the starter solenoid. I guess it is moot because the starter cranks the engine nicely. Also on his thread my friend Larry said he laid the rear body harness on the floor of the car and didn't disturb the headliner, seems right and I plan to copy him. Headlamps harness should be easy and the dome light is a project for the future. Thanks, Gary
  19. Tuesday update. I've managed to remove the light switch, it was similar to the instructions above, thanks Rodney. The harness is laid loosely around the engine and under the dash. The time consuming item now is when I touch some electrical part I have to clean the part to find a letter, number or symbol which relates to the instructions, hope that makes sense. Then because I am driving an old restoration I have to decide whether to reinstall the item as is, to match the look of the rest of the car or to restore or replace the part. For instance the horns are left alone although they are less than ideal, the generator relay is new, bright and shiny so I refinished the horn relay to match. So far so good, the new harness is flawless. Regards, Gary
  20. Personal choice purely and in my opinion the 1954 Century hardtop or convertible is a beautiful looking auto. Don't have one but that is my favourite from your list. Regards, Gary
  21. Haven't found any interesting slogans, worked on the replacement Sunday afternoon, standing on my head. Unpacked the new harness and tacked up the directions from Rhode Island on a handy message board in the shop. Cut away or unscrewed the old, crusty wires and threw them into a corner in case I need some hardware, various switches I bagged up and marked. With the dash panel loosened now I plan to address the binding speedometer, I hope a gentle tweak of the needle will help it to clear the base. Then I will refinish the surround in the dark burgundy colour, doesn't look as if it was woodgrained, polish the bright work and it should be ready for new wires and reinstalling. So far so good, I am not a mechanic I just play one in my garage. Do not understand yet how to remove the light switch? Regards, Gary
  22. Cruising the Pre War tour at the Gilmore Museum near Kalamazoo, Mi and one of the stops on our 75 mile drive was the home of civil war hero General Benjamin Pritchard. I parked my 1913 Model 31 in front of the home and two civil war re-enactors. Pre '42 car show on the grounds tomorrow with activities. Lovely drive today, through rolling countryside and 75F with sun. Life doesn't get much better does it? Regards, Gary
  23. Thanks for the encouragement, I will keep you posted as it goes. Gary W used Rhode Island for his car, me too, they supplied both main and body as well as the headlamps. Didn't get extra signals for the front even though the car has fender lamps, I am funny that way, keep the car the way it came. Someone else suggested removing the front seat for more comfort and the steering wheel had voids so it was restored as part of this job, also the speedo jams at 45 MPH so I hope to address the issue during this retrofit. My car had electrical problems, mostly involving the starter, I am nervously looking forward to getting this completed. I have a car show in mind June 10th for this rocket. Gary
  24. cxgvd

    New Image upload size

    My camera is a Nikon and it has a setting in the menu where two images are recorded, raw and jpeg, per click. I always select jpeg from the computer's hard drive to upload an image for this forum, newsletters, email, etc. Raw is for hard prints, desktop backgrounds or to study a detail. Regards, Gary
  25. P Glad your car is painted, it is a major step. You don't have to compare your progress to others, do what you are able when you can and stick with it. I wish I was as organized as Gary W, he is the best, I am 3 years into my project and there are others who are 20. We are all just guys, hang in there. Thanks, Gary