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About jsgun

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    Palmdale, CA.
  1. I run a pertronix ignitor 3 and matching coil in my mustang for the past few years. Works amazing. Little bit better gas mileage and much better throttle response than the previous crane HI8 box and distributor. Much cheaper too. I believe the ignitor 1 can run on reduced voltage.
  2. Interesting conversion, I like that kind of inventiveness. I hate 4 piston calipers though, the pads never seem to wear evenly.
  3. This. I went through all of this with a SBC I had 20 years ago. The different keyways are just there to allow you the option of experimenting with different timing in performance builds. I put in 5 advanced on my SBC, and it was too much because the Performer cam already had something like 8 degrees advance built in compared to stock. Conversely, I put in 5 degrees retarded on my SBF to give it a little more torque. I later put it back to 0 when I was trying to figure out a engine issue. It was a noticeable difference, but barely. When in doubt, put it at 0 straight up, and she'll be fine.
  4. Before I bought my Riv, I looked at a 62 Thunderbird that had a red interior. Every single piece was a different shade of red. Seats turned dark, some of the hard plastics turned dark pink, a couple of pieces stayed bright red. It's interesting how age affected the material's colors.
  5. I've owned my 67 mustang for 16 years now. I've put about 14K into it, and i'll be lucky to get 5K from it. That car's been a real education, about the car, and about myself both.
  6. If I was in your position, I'd do the same. Get it running, drive the wheels off. Plenty of time to make it pretty later. It's got character. My 64 has about 75% good paint, but it's a custom mixed color that will be impossible to replicate to patch up. I'm just going to go with it, and worry about making it pretty some point in the next 10 years.
  7. http://tire-size-calculator.info/ I found that site some time ago. It allowed me to compare the stock wheel dimensions to the wheels I wanted. My reasoning is that if it's not too far from dimensionally stock, it should fit. http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Offset-to-Backspace.html How to figure the difference between offset and backspace
  8. I was considering selling mine, because money is tight. But then I realized I'd most likely never be able to afford one again. The current prices on CL are getting crazy and Ebay prices are out of control.
  9. I used to do bodywork when I was a kid. Wanted to be the next Gene Winfield. Anyhow, that quarter is going to be work-hardened to hell. Planishing that is going to be blue murder. They went to town with that slide hammer, which is kinda weird considering how accessible it is from the back side. Leads me to believe it was some deep creases. Above the wheel arch is going to be holding a lot of tension, so if you cut off the whole quarter, things are going to move around. If it was me, I'd replace the flat area between the reveals and about 3" past the wheel arch. It's got a slight crown which will be tricky to fabricate, But if you get that from another quarter, you'd be miles ahead. Then I'd make the edges of the original quarter flat enough to meet the patch. Not a huge job, but fixing a hack repair like that can be tricky. I'd seriously consider getting the car on a frame machine, and making sure it's square first. My ponycar has a salvage title, but no collision evidence. I had it put on a frame machine, and the thing was twisted lengthwise front to rear. The driver's side rear wheel and passenger side front wheel were 6MM lower than the other wheels. Once it was pulled straight, it was easier to align the frontend, and it drove better. Doors and trunk lid shut better too. A lot of crap can happen to a car in 50 years. Just a thought.
  10. Well, I'm stumped. The wheels on the 65 have the deeply curved spokes like the one piece front buick wheels, where as the wheel vintiques have fairly straight spokes. The older wheels have an area on the inside that is welded to the hoop. I'm now thinking they cut the hoop off, then cut the diameter of the face down to fit into the hoop. The hoop is probably generic GM 8" wide, and they welded the two together again. That would get you a 5x5 BP, and the shallow back spacing that Riv's need. I've seen articles where hotrodders do some crazy stuff to steel wheels, so I think this is do-able.
  11. I suspect they're aftermarket wheels: https://www.wheelvintiques.com/buick-rallye.html However, they're only offered in 4.75 bolt pattern, so if they used those, they would have had to use a bolt pattern adaptor. Looking at the specs, they have a 4.5" back spacing, so they would have had to go with a 1" spacer to get them away from the frame. They appear to have a Interestingly, you can get them up to 10" wide.
  12. When I was shopping for mine, I saw this so often. Even from professional classic car dealers. Five minutes with Google would have sorted it out.
  13. I think it's a left over from manufacturing. I think it's a register mark for the center of the floor pan, or possibly the whole body shell.
  14. My 64 was originally Tawny Mist, which has the same paint code as 65's Champaign Mist. I suspect it's the same color. It originally had a saddle interior though. But anyhow, my vents appear to have been painted black in the insets, and no other paint.
  15. I've been told that I have the memory of a 90yr old. That, and a face made for radio.