jsgun

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About jsgun

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    Palmdale, CA.
  1. It's amazing they could weld that. It looks like some type of pot metal. That door looks incredible. I still haven't made my arm yet, I accidently broke my window and had to locate another one.
  2. TH400 issue

    Yep, it'll still work. What happens is that the pump can still pump a volume of oil, but at a lower pressure. It's losing pressure because an internal seal most likely failed, and the pressurized oil is spraying out of those seal areas, instead of being directed out the pump and reaching the control valves. The way the pumps are designed, they never really fail completely, they'll keep pumping. It's the seals that give out. That's why it would engage when you floored it.... it was generating enough pressure at high RPM to switch the valves and engage bands. For what it's worth, they're not that difficult to rebuild. My brother rebuilt his 64 Rambler's transmission (a Ford FMX of all things) in our driveway. You just have to be absolutely religious about keeping the internals clean, and making absolutely positive that you follow instructions. He laid his clutch packs out on a piece of plywood, and made sure to keep everything in order. I believe he did it in a half day, and that was taking his time.
  3. I own a 67 Mustang and a 64 Riviera. Engineering wise, the cars might as well be from different planets. The Falcon chassis was designed in 1958, and I believe it was meant to be a "universal" type chassis. The Falcon was 2 and 4 door sedans and wagons, and the Ranchero. I suspect a "sports car" was in the works right from the beginning. The Mustang is a brilliantly simplistic design, and light weight. The Riviera is a sophisticated design that is engineered to survive a war. I don't believe there's any ties between the cars, other than all the manufacturers were going after the thick sail panel look. I believe because it was new and fresh, compared to the past ten years with the thin post curved roofs starting in the mid-50's. The one thing the cars have in common, is that they were basically one man's vision, and kinda skipped the "committee design" phase. The Mustang was Lee Iacocca baby, and the Riviera was Bill Mitchell's.
  4. I was looking for a stainless steel or brass mesh sock for the tank, but didn't have any luck. I didn't want another plastic one, California gas has a lot of ethanol in it.
  5. I left the sock off on mine, because I have an electric pump with a cleanable filter about a foot away from the tank. I put some tabs of UHMW tape between the tank and the floor at the wear points on the tank. Hopefully that prevents any noise. I did notice that when I over tightened my straps, the filler neck hit the trunk floor. I loosened them up, and was able to push the tank towards the back about a inch. Tightened back up to just snug, and the tank doesn't seem to move. Haven't driven the car yet, hopefully it works out.
  6. The original measures out to be: OD: 43/64 (11/16 rounded up) Total Length: 27/64 (7/16 rounded up) Width of roller's head: 17/64 ( 1/4 rounded under)
  7. Vendor was Jurassic Classic Auto Parts on Ebay. Here's the ad: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Buick-Cad-Chev-Ponti-Olds-1957-66-Door-Quarter-Window-Regulator-Rollers-Rivets-/371987950386?hash=item569c35ab32:g:3M0AAOSw-89ZSThj I now see my mistake. They list the roller thickness as 3/16. My original measures at 1/4 (rounded off, actual is 17/64). They technically would work, just fit sloppy. I'm not holding the vender responsible, it's most likely meant for something else that "works" on the Riv. They do look identical to CC28068 sold by OPGI. But they don't give the total measurements on their site though. Anyone used those with success?
  8. They were advertised for the 1st gen Riv, and the measurements they gave were rounded off close enough. I measured them, and they're far too narrow. The roller head is 11/64, while an original is 17/64. I was originally making some from Delrin AF100, which is delrin plastic with 20% Teflon. So they're wear resistant and slicker than water on ice. I stopped because I was having a hard time getting them machined exactly right, but I can get closer than these things. Good waste of $40.
  9. I bought new guide rollers for all my windows on my 64. I mocked one up, and there seems to be excessive amounts of lateral play (like the roller is too short for the guide pin, and can slide up and down on it). Also, there's a lot of rocking motion with the roller in the track, almost like it's 1MM too thin. Using one of the original, seized up rollers, there's almost zero rocking motion. It's actually a fairly tight fit in the channel. Is this normal? I don't want my windows rattling in the channels. I had originally worked on using furniture guide bearings for window rollers, but stopped because they didn't fit the channel very tight. If this is how it's supposed to be, I may go back to them.
  10. I love the saddle interior, but beige never worked for me. Imagine that car in Diplomat blue with that saddle interior? There's a pop song with the lyrics "beige is the color of resignation", and I kind of agree with that, .
  11. In reply to the old post above, it's kinda funny because I found a picture of that green interior with pearloid inserts a while back on a google image search. It's exactly what I'm wanting to do. I want to go with an imitation black or purple pearloid, much like what's used on accordions and guitar scratch plates.
  12. Decent photoshop work. They blew it on the driver's side roof though. Side window opening is stock, and the back ground tree work is rushed.
  13. Some slowness immediately after the first start is somewhat normal if you're running a lot of advance on the timing. My Ford used to do that. I later backed the timing up (retarded the total static timing a couple degrees) and it when away.
  14. I'm really getting into LED's, but I have a lot to learn, to do the things I want to do. I have this one idea of following what Cadillac is using for driving lights... long lines of LEDs. They need to be diffused to look good. The round versions used on current cars are typically called "Halo eyes". This could be done somewhat easily with 65 headlight covers, because they have a open gap between the chrome edge, and the headlight cover. The LED could be hidden there. A 63-64 would need to be cut up to make it work. Attached is a quick and dirty photo edit showing the concept.
  15. It is a beautiful design