• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

38 Excellent

About jsgun

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Palmdale, CA.
  1. Are the cowl vents open all the way through the rocker panels like typical GM? I want to prevent future rust out.
  2. My 64 sat for several years without the cowl vent covers in place. Consequently, the cowl all the way down past the kick panel vents is full of leaves and crap. Any suggestions for cleaning it out? I used a foot long brush (much like a large pipe cleaner) to get most out from the kick panel vents, but was hoping someone found a better way. Thoughts?
  3. I was thinking about this. I don't think he'll have to worry about misalignment much. The farthest the door glass will go forward is determined by the vent window, which in turn is determined by the weatherstripping between the vent and windshield frame. The quarter window rearward location is determined by the weatherstripping at the sailpanel. So I think the piece on the quarter window is actually a stopgap to bridge those two adjustments. I think that's why it overlaps so much. I think it's almost 2". I think you can set their inward tilt by the surrounding top weatherstripping. I recent got mine installed (finally!), and noticed that it's got about 3/4" in-out adjustment. I set mine a screwdriver's width from the pinch weld, to keep it even. I'm continually impressed by this car's engineering.
  4. I believe my 64 had the original butyl tape, and it was pretty thick. I had to double up the tape I used to seat the glass to make the trim stay. Otherwise the trim was wobbly.
  5. If you don't have one, a swiveling ratcheting 3/8 box wrench is very helpful. It allows you to reach the nuts at the front edge of the door much easier. Open up the door all the way, and while standing on the outside of the door, you can get the ratchet head on the nut, and swivel the wrench handle out between the door and fender. Super easy. It also allows you to pull outwards (towards the edge of the door skin) on the nut, forcing it to tighten into the slot on the door skin to stop it from spinning. Also helpful to start at the bottom, and work upwards, leaving the top most nuts in place. I'll remove the one at the front edge, then use my leg to hold the skin in place. Then remove the one at the door handle area, holding the skin by the hole or handle. Haven't dropped mine yet. Helpful to sit the skin on your feet, to get a better hold on it. Once the skin is off, I'd put a dab of silicone on the t-bolt slots, to hold them in place loosely. If you're careful you might be able to bend the slots down enough to hold the bolts in place. I had to get my skin back on the same day, so I used 5 minute epoxy putty. I used "Trim Products" handles from OPGI, and was impressed with them. Watch out for the little black plastic piece on the end of the plunger. It needs to be horizontal. If it's vertical, it breaks.
  6. I had been considering motorcycle headlights. The newer style replaceable bulb units, could be upgraded to some seriously bright lights. I was thinking it would be relatively simple to make mounts for them, but I'm not sure how solid it would be. There's also HID units for motorcycles, they're small and could be barely noticeable behind the fender grilles.
  7. Just out of curiosity, they're pressed aluminum? I always thought they were diecast
  8. Need to sell my ponycar, not looking forward to dealing with craigslist. Heard lots of stories of flaky low-ballers on there. No luck with word-of-mouth.
  9. My 64 had a very rusted fuse box, caused by a leaking windshield. I couldn't find the correct connectors, and I don't care much about functioning originality, so I removed the box and put a aircraft breaker panel and circuit breakers. The actual wiring was in fantastic condition. Just seeing a lot of corrosion issues like mentioned above. Unless the wiring is burned up, I'd try to keep it. It seems to be a really high quality wire. My charging harness and starting circuit was literally burned up, so I'm creating new ones that can handle higher amps and uses a ford remote relay.
  10. I'm trying to do the same here. Swore they'd have to pry the keys from my dead hand. They're wonderful cars. Once you start really digging into them, you get a bigger picture of how well they're engineered. Only thing I've found I don't like is how insane it is to get the heater core out. It doesn't make sense why they designed it that way. But, hopefully its something that won't need done again.
  11. Nope, didn't check it out. If I remember right, the ad said it had a slight knock. I think it was right before I found mine, that was august a year ago. I remember it because it looked so wicked lowered down. But then it didn't mention anything about hydros or airbags. Combined with the knock, it scared me off.
  12. I believe I saw this car on CL about a year and half ago. I was impressed by how good shape it was in, but kept going when I saw it had a rod knock. Just couldn't afford to do a motor. They do look amazing in gold. Sounds like it's gone to a good home.
  13. Vacuum gauges are awesome. I used to tune the timing and carb on my ford with one.
  14. Those are perfect. I think I like them even better than the "American Muscle" series.
  15. Information is the new currency. Here's instructions for a way to remove EXIF data from pics if you use Windows. https://fieldguide.gizmodo.com/remove-location-data-from-your-photos-before-sharing-th-1593773810